An hour after I had left Castel-Nuovo, the atmosphere being calm and the
sky clear, I perceived on my right, and within ten paces of me, a
pyramidal flame about two feet long and four or five feet above the
ground. This apparition surprised me, because it seemed to accompany me.
Anxious to examine it, I endeavoured to get nearer to it, but the more I
advanced towards it the further it went from me. It would stop when I
stood still, and when the road along which I was travelling happened to be
lined with trees, I no longer saw it, but it was sure to reappear as soon
as I reached a portion of the road without trees. I several times retraced
my steps purposely, but, every time I did so, the flame disappeared, and
would not shew itself again until I proceeded towards Rome. This
extraordinary beacon left me when daylight chased darkness from the sky.
What a splendid field for ignorant superstition, if there had been any
witnesses to that phenomenon, and if I had chanced to make a great name in
Rome! History is full of such trifles, and the world is full of people who
attach great importance to them in spite of the so-called light of
science. I must candidly confess that, although somewhat versed in
physics, the sight of that small meteor gave me singular ideas. But I was
prudent enough not to mention the circumstance to any one.
When I reached the ancient capital of the world, I possessed only seven
paoli, and consequently I did not loiter about. I paid no attention to the
splendid entrance through the gate of the polar trees, which is by mistake
pompously called of the people, or to the beautiful square of the same
name, or to the portals of the magnificent churches, or to all the stately
buildings which generally strike the traveller as he enters the city. I
went straight towards Monte-Magnanopoli, where, according to the address
given to me, I was to find the bishop. There I was informed that he had
left Rome ten days before, leaving instructions to send me to Naples free
of expense. A coach was to start for Naples the next day; not caring to
see Rome, I went to bed until the time for the departure of the coach. I
travelled with three low fellows to whom I did not address one word
through the whole of the journey. I entered Naples on the 6th day of
I went immediately to the address which had been given to me in Rome; the
bishop was not there. I called at the Convent of the Minims, and I found
that he had left Naples to proceed to Martorano. I enquired whether he had
left any instructions for me, but all in vain, no one could give me any
information. And there I was, alone in a large city, without a friend,
with eight carlini in my pocket, and not knowing what to do! But never
mind; fate calls me to Martorano, and to Martorano I must go. The
distance, after all, is only two hundred miles.
I found several drivers starting for Cosenza, but when they heard that I
had no luggage, they refused to take me, unless I paid in advance. They
were quite right, but their prudence placed me under the necessity of
going on foot. Yet I felt I must reach Martorano, and I made up my mind to
walk the distance, begging food and lodging like the very reverend Brother
First of all I made a light meal for one fourth of my money, and, having
been informed that I had to follow the Salerno road, I went towards
Portici where I arrived in an hour and a half. I already felt rather
fatigued; my legs, if not my head, took me to an inn, where I ordered a
room and some supper. I was served in good style, my appetite was
excellent, and I passed a quiet night in a comfortable bed. In the morning
I told the inn-keeper that I would return for my dinner, and I went out to
visit the royal palace. As I passed through the gate, I was met by a man
of prepossessing appearance, dressed in the eastern fashion, who offered
to shew me all over the palace, saying that I would thus save my money. I
was in a position to accept any offer; I thanked him for his kindness.
Happening during the conversation to state that I was a Venetian, he told
me that he was my subject, since he came from Zante. I acknowledged his
polite compliment with a reverence.
"I have," he said, "some very excellent muscatel wine 'grown in the East,
which I could sell you cheap."
"I might buy some, but I warn you I am a good judge."
"So much the better. Which do you prefer?"
"The Cerigo wine."
"You are right. I have some rare Cerigo muscatel, and we can taste it if
you have no objection to dine with me."
"I can likewise give you the wines of Samos and Cephalonia. I have also a
quantity of minerals, plenty of vitriol, cinnabar, antimony, and one
hundred quintals of mercury."
"Are all these goods here?"
"No, they are in Naples. Here I have only the muscatel wine and the
It is quite naturally and without any intention to deceive, that a young
man accustomed to poverty, and ashamed of it when he speaks to a rich
stranger, boasts of his means—of his fortune. As I was talking with
my new acquaintance, I recollected an amalgam of mercury with lead and
bismuth, by which the mercury increases one-fourth in weight. I said
nothing, but I bethought myself that if the mystery should be unknown to
the Greek I might profit by it. I felt that some cunning was necessary,
and that he would not care for my secret if I proposed to sell it to him
without preparing the way. The best plan was to astonish my man with the
miracle of the augmentation of the mercury, treat it as a jest, and see
what his intentions would be. Cheating is a crime, but honest cunning may
be considered as a species of prudence. True, it is a quality which is
near akin to roguery; but that cannot be helped, and the man who, in time
of need, does not know how to exercise his cunning nobly is a fool. The
Greeks call this sort of wisdom Cerdaleophyon from the word cerdo; fox,
and it might be translated by foxdom if there were such a word in English.
After we had visited the palace we returned to the inn, and the Greek took
me to his room, in which he ordered the table to be laid for two. In the
next room I saw several large vessels of muscatel wine and four flagons of
mercury, each containing about ten pounds.
My plans were laid, and I asked him to let me have one of the flagons of
mercury at the current price, and took it to my room. The Greek went out
to attend to his business, reminding me that he expected me to dinner. I
went out likewise, and bought two pounds and a half of lead and an equal
quantity of bismuth; the druggist had no more. I came back to the inn,
asked for some large empty bottles, and made the amalgam.
We dined very pleasantly, and the Greek was delighted because I pronounced
his Cerigo excellent. In the course of conversation he inquired laughingly
why I had bought one of his flagons of mercury.
"You can find out if you come to my room," I said.
After dinner we repaired to my room, and he found his mercury divided in
two vessels. I asked for a piece of chamois, strained the liquid through
it, filled his own flagon, and the Greek stood astonished at the sight of
the fine mercury, about one-fourth of a flagon, which remained over, with
an equal quantity of a powder unknown to him; it was the bismuth. My merry
laugh kept company with his astonishment, and calling one of the servants
of the inn I sent him to the druggist to sell the mercury that was left.
He returned in a few minutes and handed me fifteen carlini.
The Greek, whose surprise was complete, asked me to give him back his own
flagon, which was there quite full, and worth sixty carlini. I handed it
to him with a smile, thanking him for the opportunity he had afforded me
of earning fifteen carlini, and took care to add that I should leave for
Salerno early the next morning.
"Then we must have supper together this evening," he said.
During the afternoon we took a walk towards Mount Vesuvius. Our
conversation went from one subject to another, but no allusion was made to
the mercury, though I could see that the Greek had something on his mind.
At supper he told me, jestingly, that I ought to stop in Portici the next
day to make forty-five carlini out of the three other flagons of mercury.
I answered gravely that I did not want the money, and that I had augmented
the first flagon only for the sake of procuring him an agreeable surprise.
"But," said he, "you must be very wealthy."
"No, I am not, because I am in search of the secret of the augmentation of
gold, and it is a very expensive study for us."
"How many are there in your company?"
"Only my uncle and myself."
"What do you want to augment gold for? The augmentation of mercury ought
to be enough for you. Pray, tell me whether the mercury augmented by you
to-day is again susceptible of a similar increase."
"No, if it were so, it would be an immense source of wealth for us."
"I am much pleased with your sincerity."
Supper over I paid my bill, and asked the landlord to get me a carriage
and pair of horses to take me to Salerno early the next morning. I thanked
the Greek for his delicious muscatel wine, and, requesting his address in
Naples, I assured him that he would see me within a fortnight, as I was
determined to secure a cask of his Cerigo.
We embraced each other, and I retired to bed well pleased with my day's
work, and in no way astonished at the Greek's not offering to purchase my
secret, for I was certain that he would not sleep for anxiety, and that I
should see him early in the morning. At all events, I had enough money to
reach the Tour-du-Grec, and there Providence would take care of me. Yet it
seemed to me very difficult to travel as far as Martorano, begging like a
mendicant-friar, because my outward appearance did not excite pity; people
would feel interested in me only from a conviction that I needed nothing—a
very unfortunate conviction, when the object of it is truly poor.
As I had forseen, the Greek was in my room at daybreak. I received him in
a friendly way, saying that we could take coffee together.
"Willingly; but tell me, reverend abbe, whether you would feel disposed to
sell me your secret?"
"Why not? When we meet in Naples—"
"But why not now?"
"I am expected in Salerno; besides, I would only sell the secret for a
large sum of money, and I am not acquainted with you."
"That does not matter, as I am sufficiently known here to pay you in cash.
How much would you want?"
"Two thousand ounces."
"I agree to pay you that sum provided that I succeed in making the
augmentation myself with such matter as you name to me, which I will
"It is impossible, because the necessary ingredients cannot be got here;
but they are common enough in Naples."
"If it is any sort of metal, we can get it at the Tourdu-Grec. We could go
there together. Can you tell me what is the expense of the augmentation?"
"One and a half per cent. but are you likewise known at the Tour-du-Grec,
for I should not like to lose my time?"
"Your doubts grieve me."
Saying which, he took a pen, wrote a few words, and handed to me this
"At sight, pay to bearer the sum of fifty gold ounces, on account of
He told me that the banker resided within two hundred yards of the inn,
and he pressed me to go there myself. I did not stand upon ceremony, but
went to the banker who paid me the amount. I returned to my room in which
he was waiting for me, and placed the gold on the table, saying that we
could now proceed together to the Tour-du-Grec, where we would complete
our arrangements after the signature of a deed of agreement. The Greek had
his own carriage and horses; he gave orders for them to be got ready, and
we left the inn; but he had nobly insisted upon my taking possession of
the fifty ounces.
When we arrived at the Tour-du-Grec, he signed a document by which he
promised to pay me two thousand ounces as soon as I should have discovered
to him the process of augmenting mercury by one-fourth without injuring
its quality, the amalgam to be equal to the mercury which I had sold in
his presence at Portici.
He then gave me a bill of exchange payable at sight in eight days on M.
Genaro de Carlo. I told him that the ingredients were lead and bismuth;
the first, combining with mercury, and the second giving to the whole the
perfect fluidity necessary to strain it through the chamois leather. The
Greek went out to try the amalgam—I do not know where, and I dined
alone, but toward evening he came back, looking very disconsolate, as I
"I have made the amalgam," he said, "but the mercury is not perfect."
"It is equal to that which I have sold in Portici, and that is the very
letter of your engagement."
"But my engagement says likewise without injury to the quality. You must
agree that the quality is injured, because it is no longer susceptible of
"You knew that to be the case; the point is its equality with the mercury
I sold in Portici. But we shall have to go to law, and you will lose. I am
sorry the secret should become public. Congratulate yourself, sir, for, if
you should gain the lawsuit, you will have obtained my secret for nothing.
I would never have believed you capable of deceiving me in such a manner."
"Reverend sir, I can assure you that I would not willingly deceive any
"Do you know the secret, or do you not? Do you suppose I would have given
it to you without the agreement we entered into? Well, there will be some
fun over this affair in Naples, and the lawyers will make money out of it.
But I am much grieved at this turn of affairs, and I am very sorry that I
allowed myself to be so easily deceived by your fine talk. In the mean
time, here are your fifty ounces."
As I was taking the money out of my pocket, frightened to death lest he
should accept it, he left the room, saying that he would not have it. He
soon returned; we had supper in the same room, but at separate tables; war
had been openly declared, but I felt certain that a treaty of peace would
soon be signed. We did not exchange one word during the evening, but in
the morning he came to me as I was getting ready to go. I again offered to
return the money I received, but he told me to keep it, and proposed to
give me fifty ounces more if I would give him back his bill of exchange
for two thousand. We began to argue the matter quietly, and after two
hours of discussion I gave in. I received fifty ounces more, we dined
together like old friends, and embraced each other cordially. As I was
bidding him adieu, he gave me an order on his house at Naples for a barrel
of muscatel wine, and he presented me with a splendid box containing
twelve razors with silver handles, manufactured in the Tour-du-Grec. We
parted the best friends in the world and well pleased with each other.
I remained two days in Salerno to provide myself with linen and other
necessaries. Possessing about one hundred sequins, and enjoying good
health, I was very proud of my success, in which I could not see any cause
of reproach to myself, for the cunning I had brought into play to insure
the sale of my secret could not be found fault with except by the most
intolerant of moralists, and such men have no authority to speak on
matters of business. At all events, free, rich, and certain of presenting
myself before the bishop with a respectable appearance, and not like a
beggar, I soon recovered my natural spirits, and congratulated myself upon
having bought sufficient experience to insure me against falling a second
time an easy prey to a Father Corsini, to thieving gamblers, to mercenary
women, and particularly to the impudent scoundrels who barefacedly praise
so well those they intend to dupe—a species of knaves very common in
the world, even amongst people who form what is called good society.
I left Salerno with two priests who were going to Cosenza on business, and
we traversed the distance of one hundred and forty-two miles in twenty-two
hours. The day after my arrival in the capital of Calabria, I took a small
carriage and drove to Martorano. During the journey, fixing my eyes upon
the famous mare Ausonaum, I felt delighted at finding myself in the middle
of Magna Grecia, rendered so celebrated for twenty-four centuries by its
connection with Pythagoras. I looked with astonishment upon a country
renowned for its fertility, and in which, in spite of nature's
prodigality, my eyes met everywhere the aspect of terrible misery, the
complete absence of that pleasant superfluity which helps man to enjoy
life, and the degradation of the inhabitants sparsely scattered on a soil
where they ought to be so numerous; I felt ashamed to acknowledge them as
originating from the same stock as myself. Such is, however the Terra di
Lavoro where labour seems to be execrated, where everything is cheap,
where the miserable inhabitants consider that they have made a good
bargain when they have found anyone disposed to take care of the fruit
which the ground supplies almost spontaneously in too great abundance, and
for which there is no market. I felt compelled to admit the justice of the
Romans who had called them Brutes instead of Byutians. The good priests
with whom I had been travelling laughed at my dread of the tarantula and
of the crasydra, for the disease brought on by the bite of those insects
appeared to me more fearful even than a certain disease with which I was
already too well acquainted. They assured me that all the stories relating
to those creatures were fables; they laughed at the lines which Virgil has
devoted to them in the Georgics as well as at all those I quoted to
justify my fears.
I found Bishop Bernard de Bernardis occupying a hard chair near an old
table on which he was writing. I fell on my knees, as it is customary to
do before a prelate, but, instead of giving me his blessing, he raised me
up from the floor, and, folding me in his arms, embraced me tenderly. He
expressed his deep sorrow when I told him that in Naples I had not been
able to find any instructions to enable me to join him, but his face
lighted up again when I added that I was indebted to no one for money, and
that I was in good health. He bade me take a seat, and with a heavy sigh
he began to talk of his poverty, and ordered a servant to lay the cloth
for three persons. Besides this servant, his lordship's suite consisted of
a most devout-looking housekeeper, and of a priest whom I judged to be
very ignorant from the few words he uttered during our meal. The house
inhabited by his lordship was large, but badly built and poorly kept. The
furniture was so miserable that, in order to make up a bed for me in the
room adjoining his chamber, the poor bishop had to give up one of his two
mattresses! His dinner, not to say any more about it, frightened me, for
he was very strict in keeping the rules of his order, and this being a
fast day, he did not eat any meat, and the oil was very bad. Nevertheless,
monsignor was an intelligent man, and, what is still better, an honest
man. He told me, much to my surprise, that his bishopric, although not one
of little importance, brought him in only five hundred ducat-diregno
yearly, and that, unfortunately, he had contracted debts to the amount of
six hundred. He added, with a sigh, that his only happiness was to feel
himself out of the clutches of the monks, who had persecuted him, and made
his life a perfect purgatory for fifteen years. All these confidences
caused me sorrow and mortification, because they proved to me, not only
that I was not in the promised land where a mitre could be picked up, but
also that I would be a heavy charge for him. I felt that he was grieved
himself at the sorry present his patronage seemed likely to prove.
I enquired whether he had a good library, whether there were any literary
men, or any good society in which one could spend a few agreeable hours.
He smiled and answered that throughout his diocese there was not one man
who could boast of writing decently, and still less of any taste or
knowledge in literature; that there was not a single bookseller, nor any
person caring even for the newspapers. But he promised me that we would
follow our literary tastes together, as soon as he received the books he
had ordered from Naples.
That was all very well, but was this the place for a young man of eighteen
to live in, without a good library, without good society, without
emulation and literacy intercourse? The good bishop, seeing me full of sad
thoughts, and almost astounded at the prospect of the miserable life I
should have to lead with him, tried to give me courage by promising to do
everything in his power to secure my happiness.
The next day, the bishop having to officiate in his pontifical robes, I
had an opportunity of seeing all the clergy, and all the faithful of the
diocese, men and women, of whom the cathedral was full; the sight made me
resolve at once to leave Martorano. I thought I was gazing upon a troop of
brutes for whom my external appearance was a cause of scandal. How ugly
were the women! What a look of stupidity and coarseness in the men! When I
returned to the bishop's house I told the prelate that I did not feel in
me the vocation to die within a few months a martyr in this miserable
"Give me your blessing," I added, "and let me go; or, rather, come with
me. I promise you that we shall make a fortune somewhere else."
The proposal made him laugh repeatedly during the day. Had he agreed to it
he would not have died two years afterwards in the prime of manhood. The
worthy man, feeling how natural was my repugnance, begged me to forgive
him for having summoned me to him, and, considering it his duty to send me
back to Venice, having no money himself and not being aware that I had
any, he told me that he would give me an introduction to a worthy citizen
of Naples who would lend me sixty ducati-di-regno to enable me to reach my
native city. I accepted his offer with gratitude, and going to my room I
took out of my trunk the case of fine razors which the Greek had given me,
and I begged his acceptance of it as a souvenir of me. I had great
difficulty in forcing it upon him, for it was worth the sixty ducats, and
to conquer his resistance I had to threaten to remain with him if he
refused my present. He gave me a very flattering letter of recommendation
for the Archbishop of Cosenza, in which he requested him to forward me as
far as Naples without any expense to myself. It was thus I left Martorano
sixty hours after my arrival, pitying the bishop whom I was leaving
behind, and who wept as he was pouring heartfelt blessings upon me.
The Archbishop of Cosenza, a man of wealth and of intelligence, offered me
a room in his palace. During the dinner I made, with an overflowing heart,
the eulogy of the Bishop of Martorano; but I railed mercilessly at his
diocese and at the whole of Calabria in so cutting a manner that I greatly
amused the archbishop and all his guests, amongst whom were two ladies,
his relatives, who did the honours of the dinner-table. The youngest,
however, objected to the satirical style in which I had depicted her
country, and declared war against me; but I contrived to obtain peace
again by telling her that Calabria would be a delightful country if
one-fourth only of its inhabitants were like her. Perhaps it was with the
idea of proving to me that I had been wrong in my opinion that the
archbishop gave on the following day a splendid supper.
Cosenza is a city in which a gentleman can find plenty of amusement; the
nobility are wealthy, the women are pretty, and men generally
well-informed, because they have been educated in Naples or in Rome. I
left Cosenza on the third day with a letter from the archbishop for the
I had five travelling companions, whom I judged, from their appearance, to
be either pirates or banditti, and I took very good care not to let them
see or guess that I had a well-filled purse. I likewise thought it prudent
to go to bed without undressing during the whole journey—an
excellent measure of prudence for a young man travelling in that part of
I reached Naples on the 16th of September, 1743, and I lost no time in
presenting the letter of the Bishop of Martorano. It was addressed to a M.
Gennaro Polo at St. Anne's. This excellent man, whose duty was only to
give me the sum of sixty ducats, insisted, after perusing the bishop's
letter, upon receiving me in his house, because he wished me to make the
acquaintance of his son, who was a poet like myself. The bishop had
represented my poetry as sublime. After the usual ceremonies, I accepted
his kind invitation, my trunk was sent for, and I was a guest in the house
of M. Gennaro Polo.