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<h2> CHAPTER XXI </h2>
<h3> THE PUEBLO AND BENT'S FORT </h3>
<p>We approached the gate of the Pueblo. It was a wretched species of fort of
most primitive construction, being nothing more than a large square
inclosure, surrounded by a wall of mud, miserably cracked and dilapidated.
The slender pickets that surmounted it were half broken down, and the gate
dangled on its wooden hinges so loosely, that to open or shut it seemed
likely to fling it down altogether. Two or three squalid Mexicans, with
their broad hats, and their vile faces overgrown with hair, were lounging
about the bank of the river in front of it. They disappeared as they saw
us approach; and as we rode up to the gate a light active little figure
came out to meet us. It was our old friend Richard. He had come from Fort
Laramie on a trading expedition to Taos; but finding, when he reached the
Pueblo, that the war would prevent his going farther, he was quietly
waiting till the conquest of the country should allow him to proceed. He
seemed to consider himself bound to do the honors of the place. Shaking us
warmly by the hands, he led the way into the area.</p>
<p>Here we saw his large Santa Fe wagons standing together. A few squaws and
Spanish women, and a few Mexicans, as mean and miserable as the place
itself, were lazily sauntering about. Richard conducted us to the state
apartment of the Pueblo, a small mud room, very neatly finished,
considering the material, and garnished with a crucifix, a looking-glass,
a picture of the Virgin, and a rusty horse pistol. There were no chairs,
but instead of them a number of chests and boxes ranged about the room.
There was another room beyond, less sumptuously decorated, and here three
or four Spanish girls, one of them very pretty, were baking cakes at a mud
fireplace in the corner. They brought out a poncho, which they spread upon
the floor by way of table-cloth. A supper, which seemed to us luxurious,
was soon laid out upon it, and folded buffalo robes were placed around it
to receive the guests. Two or three Americans, besides ourselves, were
present. We sat down Turkish fashion, and began to inquire the news.
Richard told us that, about three weeks before, General Kearny's army had
left Bent's Fort to march against Santa Fe; that when last heard from they
were approaching the mountainous defiles that led to the city. One of the
Americans produced a dingy newspaper, containing an account of the battles
of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma. While we were discussing these
matters, the doorway was darkened by a tall, shambling fellow, who stood
with his hands in his pockets taking a leisurely survey of the premises
before he entered. He wore brown homespun pantaloons, much too short for
his legs, and a pistol and bowie knife stuck in his belt. His head and one
eye were enveloped in a huge bandage of white linen. Having completed his
observations, he came slouching in and sat down on a chest. Eight or ten
more of the same stamp followed, and very coolly arranging themselves
about the room, began to stare at the company. Shaw and I looked at each
other. We were forcibly reminded of the Oregon emigrants, though these
unwelcome visitors had a certain glitter of the eye, and a compression of
the lips, which distinguished them from our old acquaintances of the
prairie. They began to catechise us at once, inquiring whence we had come,
what we meant to do next, and what were our future prospects in life.</p>
<p>The man with the bandaged head had met with an untoward accident a few
days before. He was going down to the river to bring water, and was
pushing through the young willows which covered the low ground, when he
came unawares upon a grizzly bear, which, having just eaten a buffalo
bull, had lain down to sleep off the meal. The bear rose on his hind legs,
and gave the intruder such a blow with his paw that he laid his forehead
entirely bare, clawed off the front of his scalp, and narrowly missed one
of his eyes. Fortunately he was not in a very pugnacious mood, being
surfeited with his late meal. The man's companions, who were close behind,
raised a shout and the bear walked away, crushing down the willows in his
leisurely retreat.</p>
<p>These men belonged to a party of Mormons, who, out of a well-grounded fear
of the other emigrants, had postponed leaving the settlements until all
the rest were gone. On account of this delay they did not reach Fort
Laramie until it was too late to continue their journey to California.
Hearing that there was good land at the head of the Arkansas, they crossed
over under the guidance of Richard, and were now preparing to spend the
winter at a spot about half a mile from the Pueblo.</p>
<p>When we took leave of Richard, it was near sunset. Passing out of the
gate, we could look down the little valley of the Arkansas; a beautiful
scene, and doubly so to our eyes, so long accustomed to deserts and
mountains. Tall woods lined the river, with green meadows on either hand;
and high bluffs, quietly basking in the sunlight, flanked the narrow
valley. A Mexican on horseback was driving a herd of cattle toward the
gate, and our little white tent, which the men had pitched under a large
tree in the meadow, made a very pleasing feature in the scene. When we
reached it, we found that Richard had sent a Mexican to bring us an
abundant supply of green corn and vegetables, and invite us to help
ourselves to whatever we wished from the fields around the Pueblo.</p>
<p>The inhabitants were in daily apprehensions of an inroad from more
formidable consumers than ourselves. Every year at the time when the corn
begins to ripen, the Arapahoes, to the number of several thousands, come
and encamp around the Pueblo. The handful of white men, who are entirely
at the mercy of this swarm of barbarians, choose to make a merit of
necessity; they come forward very cordially, shake them by the hand, and
intimate that the harvest is entirely at their disposal. The Arapahoes
take them at their word, help themselves most liberally, and usually turn
their horses into the cornfields afterward. They have the foresight,
however, to leave enough of the crops untouched to serve as an inducement
for planting the fields again for their benefit in the next spring.</p>
<p>The human race in this part of the world is separated into three
divisions, arranged in the order of their merits; white men, Indians, and
Mexicans; to the latter of whom the honorable title of "whites" is by no
means conceded.</p>
<p>In spite of the warm sunset of that evening the next morning was a dreary
and cheerless one. It rained steadily, clouds resting upon the very
treetops. We crossed the river to visit the Mormon settlement. As we
passed through the water, several trappers on horseback entered it from
the other side. Their buckskin frocks were soaked through by the rain, and
clung fast to their limbs with a most clammy and uncomfortable look. The
water was trickling down their faces, and dropping from the ends of their
rifles, and from the traps which each carried at the pommel of his saddle.
Horses and all, they had a most disconsolate and woebegone appearance,
which we could not help laughing at, forgetting how often we ourselves had
been in a similar plight.</p>
<p>After half an hour's riding we saw the white wagons of the Mormons drawn
up among the trees. Axes were sounding, trees were falling, and log-huts
going up along the edge of the woods and upon the adjoining meadow. As we
came up the Mormons left their work and seated themselves on the timber
around us, when they began earnestly to discuss points of theology,
complain of the ill-usage they had received from the "Gentiles," and sound
a lamentation over the loss of their great temple at Nauvoo. After
remaining with them an hour we rode back to our camp, happy that the
settlements had been delivered from the presence of such blind and
desperate fanatics.</p>
<p>On the morning after this we left the Pueblo for Bent's Fort. The conduct
of Raymond had lately been less satisfactory than before, and we had
discharged him as soon as we arrived at the former place; so that the
party, ourselves included, was now reduced to four. There was some
uncertainty as to our future course. The trail between Bent's Fort and the
settlements, a distance computed at six hundred miles, was at this time in
a dangerous state; for since the passage of General Kearny's army, great
numbers of hostile Indians, chiefly Pawnees and Comanches, had gathered
about some parts of it. A little after this time they became so numerous
and audacious, that scarcely a single party, however large, passed between
the fort and the frontier without some token of their hostility. The
newspapers of the time sufficiently display this state of things. Many men
were killed, and great numbers of horses and mules carried off. Not long
since I met with the gentleman, who, during the autumn, came from Santa Fe
to Bent's Fort, when he found a party of seventy men, who thought
themselves too weak to go down to the settlements alone, and were waiting
there for a re-enforcement. Though this excessive timidity fully proves
the ignorance and credulity of the men, it may also evince the state of
alarm which prevailed in the country. When we were there in the month of
August, the danger had not become so great. There was nothing very
attractive in the neighborhood. We supposed, moreover, that we might wait
there half the winter without finding any party to go down with us; for
Mr. Sublette and the others whom we had relied upon had, as Richard told
us, already left Bent's Fort. Thus far on our journey Fortune had kindly
befriended us. We resolved therefore to take advantage of her gracious
mood and trusting for a continuance of her favors, to set out with Henry
and Delorier, and run the gauntlet of the Indians in the best way we
could.</p>
<p>Bent's Fort stands on the river, about seventy-five miles below the
Pueblo. At noon of the third day we arrived within three or four miles of
it, pitched our tent under a tree, hung our looking-glasses against its
trunk and having made our primitive toilet, rode toward the fort. We soon
came in sight of it, for it is visible from a considerable distance,
standing with its high clay walls in the midst of the scorching plains. It
seemed as if a swarm of locusts had invaded the country. The grass for
miles around was cropped close by the horses of General Kearny's soldiery.
When we came to the fort, we found that not only had the horses eaten up
the grass, but their owners had made away with the stores of the little
trading post; so that we had great difficulty in procuring the few
articles which we required for our homeward journey. The army was gone,
the life and bustle passed away, and the fort was a scene of dull and lazy
tranquillity. A few invalid officers and soldiers sauntered about the
area, which was oppressively hot; for the glaring sun was reflected down
upon it from the high white walls around. The proprietors were absent, and
we were received by Mr. Holt, who had been left in charge of the fort. He
invited us to dinner, where, to our admiration, we found a table laid with
a white cloth, with castors in the center and chairs placed around it.
This unwonted repast concluded, we rode back to our camp.</p>
<p>Here, as we lay smoking round the fire after supper, we saw through the
dusk three men approaching from the direction of the fort. They rode up
and seated themselves near us on the ground. The foremost was a tall,
well-formed man, with a face and manner such as inspire confidence at
once. He wore a broad hat of felt, slouching and tattered, and the rest of
his attire consisted of a frock and leggings of buckskin, rubbed with the
yellow clay found among the mountains. At the heel of one of his moccasins
was buckled a huge iron spur, with a rowel five or six inches in diameter.
His horse, who stood quietly looking over his head, had a rude Mexican
saddle, covered with a shaggy bearskin, and furnished with a pair of
wooden stirrups of most preposterous size. The next man was a sprightly,
active little fellow, about five feet and a quarter high, but very strong
and compact. His face was swarthy as a Mexican's and covered with a close,
curly black beard. An old greasy calico handkerchief was tied round his
head, and his close buckskin dress was blackened and polished by grease
and hard service. The last who came up was a large strong man, dressed in
the coarse homespun of the frontiers, who dragged his long limbs over the
ground as if he were too lazy for the effort. He had a sleepy gray eye, a
retreating chin, an open mouth and a protruding upper lip, which gave him
an air of exquisite indolence and helplessness. He was armed with an old
United States yager, which redoubtable weapon, though he could never hit
his mark with it, he was accustomed to cherish as the very sovereign of
firearms.</p>
<p>The first two men belonged to a party who had just come from California
with a large band of horses, which they had disposed of at Bent's Fort.
Munroe, the taller of the two, was from Iowa. He was an excellent fellow,
open, warm-hearted and intelligent. Jim Gurney, the short man, was a
Boston sailor, who had come in a trading vessel to California, and taken
the fancy to return across the continent. The journey had already made him
an expert "mountain man," and he presented the extraordinary phenomenon of
a sailor who understood how to manage a horse. The third of our visitors
named Ellis, was a Missourian, who had come out with a party of Oregon
emigrants, but having got as far as Bridge's Fort, he had fallen
home-sick, or as Jim averred, love-sick—and Ellis was just the man
to be balked in a love adventure. He thought proper to join the California
men and return homeward in their company.</p>
<p>They now requested that they might unite with our party, and make the
journey to the settlements in company with us. We readily assented, for we
liked the appearance of the first two men, and were very glad to gain so
efficient a re-enforcement. We told them to meet us on the next evening at
a spot on the river side, about six miles below the fort. Having smoked a
pipe together, our new allies left us, and we lay down to sleep.</p>
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