<p><SPAN name="ch2"></SPAN></p>
<hr align="center" width="50%">
<h2>CHAPTER 2.</h2>
<blockquote><b>Departure from England. Arrival at Tenerife.<br/>
Sail from thence.<br/>
Arrival off Cape Horn.<br/>
Severity of the Weather.<br/>
Obliged to bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.</b></blockquote>
<p>1787. December. Sunday 23.</p>
<p>On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from
Spithead and, passing through the Needles, directed our course
down channel with a fresh gale of wind at east. In the afternoon
one of the seamen, in furling the main-top-gallant-sail, fell off
the yard and was so fortunate as to save himself by catching hold
of the main-top-mast-stay in his fall. At night the wind
increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.</p>
<p>Tuesday 25.</p>
<p>It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our
Christmas with cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a
severe storm of wind from the eastward, which continued till the
29th, in the course of which we suffered greatly. One sea broke
away the spare yards and spars out of the starboard main chains.
Another heavy sea broke into the ship and stove all the boats.
Several casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck were broke
loose and washed overboard, and it was not without great
difficulty and risk that we were able to secure the boats from
being washed away entirely.</p>
<p>Saturday 29.</p>
<p>On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north
and longitude 14 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and
the weather became fair. Besides other mischief done to us by the
storm, a large quantity of our bread was damaged and rendered
useless, for the sea had stove in our stern and filled the cabin
with water. From this time to our arrival at Tenerife we had
moderate weather and winds mostly from the northward.</p>
<p>1788. January.</p>
<p>January 4.</p>
<p>This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the
Mauritius.</p>
<p>Saturday 5. Tenerife.</p>
<p>The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of
Tenerife bearing west-south-west half west about twelve leagues
distant. It was covered with a thick haze except the
north-westernmost part which is a remarkable headland, resembling
a horse's head, the ears very distinct. To the eastward of this
head* lie two round rocks, the northern boundary of Tenerife. I
had a good observation at noon by which I make the latitude of
the two rocks 28 degrees 44 minutes north and their longitude by
our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. To the southward of
these and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four
leagues farther to the southward the coast inclines towards the
west to the road of Santa Cruz, where we anchored at half-past
nine on Sunday morning in twenty-five fathoms water, and moored
along shore in the same depth, with the cupola tower of the
church of St. Francis bearing west half north one mile, the east
part of the road east by north, the castle on the south point
south-west, and the west part of the Grand Canary
south-south-east. A Spanish packet bound to Corunna, an American
brig, and several other vessels, were lying here.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the compass.)</blockquote>
<p>As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr.
Christian) to wait on the governor and to acquaint him I had put
in to obtain refreshments and to repair the damages we had
sustained in bad weather. To this I had a very polite answer from
the governor, * that I should be supplied with whatever the
island afforded. I had also directed the officer to acquaint him
that I would salute, provided an equal number of guns were to be
returned but, as I received an extraordinary answer to this part
of my message, purporting that his excellency did not return the
same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, this
ceremony was omitted.</p>
<blockquote>(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)</blockquote>
<p>During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain
Adams) and shortly afterwards several officers came on board from
his excellency to compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the
ship was moored I went on shore and paid my respects to him.</p>
<p>Monday 7.</p>
<p>On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with
the utmost dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs.
Collogan and sons, the contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I
also got leave of the governor for Mr. Nelson to range the hills
and examine the country in search of plants and natural
curiosities.</p>
<p>As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for
everything I wanted to be brought off by the shore boats, and
agreed to give five shillings per ton for water. Very good wine
was bought at ten pounds per pipe, the contract price; but the
superior quality was fifteen pounds; and some of this was not
much inferior to the best London Madeira. I found this was an
unfavourable season for other refreshments: Indian corn,
potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very scarce and double
the price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult to
be procured and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence
farthing per pound. The corn was three current dollars per
fanega, which is full five shillings per bushel; and biscuit at
twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds. Poultry was so
scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is therefore
not a place for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable
price at this time of the year, wine excepted; but from March to
November supplies are plentiful, particularly fruit, of which at
this time we could procure none except a few dried figs and some
bad oranges.</p>
<p>NAUTICAL REMARKS.</p>
<p>During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east
winds and calms and small drizzling rain in the night. The
thermometer from 66 to 69 degrees at noon in the shade. I could
make no lunar observations for the longitude, but by the help of
the timekeeper I have computed the situation of the town of Santa
Cruz to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north latitude and 16 degrees 18
minutes west longitude. I observed the variation by two compasses
to be 20 degrees 1 minute west: this much exceeded what I could
have imagined; for in 1776 I observed it only 14 degrees 40
minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in eleven years:
and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the
exact deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual
variation which never can be accurately ascertained unless the
observations are made always in one spot and with the same
compass.</p>
<p>Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly
within the limits of the tradewind that navigators generally
steer to it from the eastward. The road of Santa Cruz lies on the
east side of the island, at the end of a range of craggy hills,
barren and very lofty, along with you sail west by south by
compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable until near the
shore. The anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty fathoms
to twenty, or even fifteen. The bank is very steep and gives but
little time to sound; for which reason it should be done
effectually with a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near in
before a stranger is aware of it: he will likewise too soon
expect to find bottom, owing to the great deception of the
adjacent high land. To obviate these difficulties it is necessary
to observe that while a town which lies some distance to the
southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the south part
of the road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no
anchorage; but after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank.
The church bearing west or west by south and the south point of
the road south-west half south to south-west by west is a good
situation for anchoring: the depth about twenty-five fathoms. The
distance from the shore will be three quarters of a mile; and the
southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half or quarter
point of the compass farther out than the south point of the
road.</p>
<p>The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for
which reason vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their
cables. This precaution, besides being useful in that particular,
they think makes them ride more easy when there is much sea
setting into the road, which, with the wind any way to the
southward of east or at south-west, must be very considerable; it
is therefore usual to moor with four anchors, though more than
two are scarce ever of use. Mooring is however advisable if a
ship is only to remain twenty-four hours, and the tighter the
better, that the cables may keep clear of the ground.</p>
<p>The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our
own boats, at least without great risk; but there is a very fine
pier on which people may land without difficulty if there is not
much swell in the road. To this pier the water is conveyed by
pipes for the use of shipping, and for which all merchant-ships
pay.</p>
<p>There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower
class of people which is not anywhere so common as among the
Spanish and Portuguese settlements. To alleviate these evils the
present governor of Tenerife has instituted a most charitable
society which he takes the trouble to superintend; and by
considerable contributions a large airy dwelling that contains
one hundred and twenty poor girls and as many men and boys has
been built and endowed with a sufficiency of land round it, not
only for all present purposes but for enlarging the building for
more objects of charity as their funds increase. I had the honour
to be shown by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they call it)
where there appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness
and content. The decency and neatness of the dress of the young
females, with the order in which they were arranged at their
spinning-wheels and looms in an extensive airy apartment, was
admirable. A governess inspected and regulated all their works,
which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all colours, coarse
linens, and tapes; all which were managed and brought to
perfection by themselves from the silk and flax in their first
state; even the dying of the colours is performed by them. These
girls are received for five years, at the end of which they are
at liberty to marry, and have for their portions their wheel and
loom, with a sum of money proportioned to the state of the fund,
which is assisted by the produce of their labour, and at this
time was estimated at two thousand dollars per annum.</p>
<p>The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed
in coarser work, blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if
they become infirm they spend the remainder of their days here
comfortably and under a watchful inspector who attends them in
the same manner as the governess does the girls. They are all
visited every day by the governor, and a clergyman attends them
every evening. By this humane institution a number of people are
rendered useful and industrious in a country where the poor, from
the indulgence of the climate, are too apt to prefer a life of
inactivity, though attended with wretchedness, to obtaining the
comforts of life by industry and labour.</p>
<p>The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were
estimated at between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their
annual export of wine is twenty thousand pipes and of brandy half
that quantity. Vessels are frequently here from St. Eustatia, and
from thence a great quantity of Tenerife wine is carried to the
different parts of the West Indies, under the name of
Madeira.</p>
<p>Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other
Canaries: the inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive
supplies from the Grand Canary; but their vineyards here are said
to be greatly superior. Their produce of corn, though exceedingly
good, is not sufficient for their consumption; and owing to this
the Americans have an advantageous trade here for their flour and
grain, and take wine in return.</p>
<p>The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each
way, built in a regular manner, and the houses in general large
and airy, but the streets are very ill paved. I am told that they
are subject to few diseases; but if any epidemic distemper breaks
out it is attended with the most fatal consequences, particularly
the smallpox, the bad effects of which they now endeavour to
counteract by inoculation. For this reason they are very
circumspect in admitting ships to have communication with the
shore without bills of health.</p>
<p>A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith,
master, bound to Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came
into the road the day before we sailed. She had suffered much by
the bad weather but, having brought no bill of health, the
governor would not allow any person to come on shore unless I
could vouch for them that no epidemic disease raged in England at
the time they sailed, which I was able to do, it being nearly at
the same time that I left the land; and by that means they had
the governor's permission to receive the supplies they wanted
without being obliged to perform quarantine.</p>
<p>Thursday 10.</p>
<p>Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th
we sailed with the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in
good health and spirits.</p>
<p>I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the
charge of the third watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the
mates. I have always considered this as a desirable regulation
when circumstances will admit of it on many accounts; and am
persuaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much towards
the health of a ship's company but enables them more readily to
exert themselves in cases of sudden emergency.</p>
<p>As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I
ordered everybody to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also
directed the water for drinking to be filtered though dripstones
that I had bought at Tenerife for that purpose.</p>
<p>In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a
round lump of land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land,
has at a distance the appearance of a separate island. By our run
from the bay of Santa Cruz I make the latitude of the south end
of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6 minutes north.</p>
<p>We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind
at south-east. The next morning we could see nothing of the land.
I now made the ship's company acquainted with the intent of the
voyage and, having been permitted to hold out this encouragement
to them, I gave assurances of the certainty of promotion to
everyone whose endeavours should merit it.</p>
<p>The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly
from the southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed
amongst the people and some dolphins were caught.</p>
<p>Thursday 17.</p>
<p>On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and
continued steady in that quarter till the 25th on which day at
noon we were in 3 degrees 54 minutes north. As the cloudiness of
the sky gave us reason to expect much rain we prepared the
awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving water, in which
we were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting with the
south-east tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and
sultry with calms, and light variable winds generally from the
southward.</p>
<p>Tuesday 29.</p>
<p>On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught
seven hundred gallons of water.</p>
<p>Thursday 31.</p>
<p>On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found
a current setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles
in the twenty-four hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in
the shade, and 81 1/2 degrees at the surface of the sea, so that
the air and the water were within half a degree of the same
temperature. At eight o'clock in the evening we observed a
violent rippling in the sea about half a mile to the north-west
of us which had very much the appearance of breakers. This I
imagine to have been occasioned by a large school (or multitude)
of fish as it was exactly in the track the ship had passed, so
that if any real shoal had been there we must have seen it at the
close of the evening when a careful lookout was always kept.
However if it had appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should
certainly have tacked to avoid it. To such appearances I
attribute the accounts of many shoals within the tropics which
cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our latitude at this time
was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19 degrees 43 minutes
west. The next day we had more of these appearances from the
number of schools of fish by which the ship was surrounded.</p>
<p>February. Saturday 2.</p>
<p>This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too
great a distance to distinguish what she was.</p>
<p>Monday 4.</p>
<p>Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our
empty water casks. So much wet weather, with the closeness of the
air, covered everything with mildew. The ship was aired below
with fires and frequently sprinkled with vinegar; and every
little interval of dry weather was taken advantage of to open all
the hatchways, and clean the ship, and to have all the people's
wet things washed and dried.</p>
<p>With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2
1/2 degrees in twelve days; at the end of which time we were
relieved by the south-east tradewind which we fell in with on the
6th at noon in latitude 1 degree 21 minutes north and longitude
20 degrees 42 minutes west.</p>
<p>Thursday 7.</p>
<p>The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in
longitude 21 degrees 50 minutes west. The weather became fine and
the south-east tradewind was fresh and steady, with which we kept
a point free from the wind and got to the southward at a good
rate.</p>
<p>The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks,
properly prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin:
this experiment we afterwards found answered exceedingly
well.</p>
<p>Saturday 16.</p>
<p>On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The
next day we came up with her and found her to be the British
Queen, Simon Paul, master, from London, bound to the Cape of Good
Hope on the whale-fishery. She sailed from Falmouth the 5th of
December, eighteen days before I left Spithead. By this ship I
wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out of sight
astern.</p>
<p>Monday 18.</p>
<p>In the course of this day's run the variation changed from
west to east. According to our observations the true and magnetic
meridians coincided in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and
longitude 31 degrees 15 minutes west. At noon we were in latitude
20 degrees 44 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 23 minutes
west. In our advances towards the south the wind had gradually
veered round to the east and was at this time at east-north-east.
The weather after crossing the Line had been fine and clear, but
the air so sultry as to occasion great faintness, the quicksilver
in the thermometer in the daytime standing at between 81 and 83
degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage through the
northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high
south declination and the weather being generally fine till we
lost the north-east tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded
the horizon that no object could be seen except at a very small
distance. The haze commonly cleared away at sunset and gathered
again at sunrise. Between the north-east and south-east
tradewinds the calms and rains, if of long continuance, are very
liable to produce sickness unless great attention is paid to
keeping the ship clean and wholesome by giving all the air
possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and airing
the people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we
frequently wetted with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were
used as ventilators. With these endeavours to secure health we
passed the low latitudes without a single complaint.</p>
<p>The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I
ever found them so in the middle of the ocean. However from the
channel to the southward as far as Madeira there is generally a
current setting to the south-south-east.</p>
<p>Thursday 21.</p>
<p>On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east
but at too great a distance to distinguish of what country.</p>
<p>Friday 22.</p>
<p>The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west
so that we could no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind.
Our latitude at noon was 25 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude
36 degrees 29 minutes west. Variation of the compass three
degrees east.</p>
<p>Saturday 23.</p>
<p>Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers
of rain of which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The
next day we caught a shark and five dolphins.</p>
<p>Tuesday 26.</p>
<p>We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for
encountering the weather that was to be expected in a high
latitude. Our latitude at noon was 29 degrees 38 minutes south,
longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes west. Variation 7 degrees 13
minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind being westerly and
blowing strong in squalls, some butterflies and other insects
like what we call horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds
were seen except shearwaters. Our distance from the coast of
Brazil at this time was above 100 leagues.</p>
<p>March. Sunday 2.</p>
<p>In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean,
divine service was performed according to my usual custom on this
day. I gave to Mr. Fletcher Christian, whom I had before directed
to take charge of the third watch, a written order to act as
lieutenant.</p>
<p>Saturday 8.</p>
<p>We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and
longitude 52 degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we
several times tried for soundings without finding bottom, though
considerably to the westward of Captain Wallis' track, who had
soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in latitude 35 degrees 40
minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes west. This day
we tried with two hundred and forty fathoms of line but did not
find bottom; at the same time, observing a rippling in the water,
we tried the current by mooring a keg with one hundred fathoms of
line, by which it appeared to run to the north-north-west at the
rate of a mile and a half per hour. By the noon observation
however we were eighteen miles to the southward of our reckoning.
In the afternoon we saw a turtle floating and, not having much
wind, hoisted a boat out and sent after it; but it was found to
be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding upon it.</p>
<p>The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there
being a variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight
degrees. That the people might not suffer by their own negligence
I gave orders for their light tropical clothing to be put by, and
made them dress in a manner more suited to a cold climate. I had
provided for this before I left England by giving directions for
such clothes to be purchased as were necessary.</p>
<p>Monday 10.</p>
<p>In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms
depth; our latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55
degrees 40 minutes west. This I conclude to have been near the
edge of the bank for, the wind being at south-south-west, we
stood towards the south-east; and after running fourteen miles in
that direction we could find no bottom with one hundred and sixty
fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards the
west-south-west with a southerly wind and got again into
soundings. The next day we saw a great number of whales of an
immense size that had two spout-holes on the back of the head.
Upon a complaint made to me by the master I found it necessary to
punish Matthew Quintal, one of the seamen, with two dozen lashes
for insolence and mutinous behaviour. Before this I had not had
occasion to punish any person on board.</p>
<p>Wednesday 12.</p>
<p>On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the
grains. Everyone eat heartily of it; and it was so well liked
that no part was wasted.</p>
<p>Friday 14.</p>
<p>On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark,
and passed part of a dead whale that had been left by some
whalers after they had taken the blubber off. Saw likewise two
strange sail. The next day at noon our latitude was 43 degrees 6
minutes south and longitude 58 degrees 42 minutes west. Had
soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine greenish
sand. Saw two hawks.</p>
<p>Sunday 16.</p>
<p>On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west
standing to the northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes
south. We continued running to the southward keeping in
soundings.</p>
<p>Wednesday 19.</p>
<p>On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty
leagues of Port Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the
north-west with thick foggy weather I did not attempt to make the
land. We passed a good deal of rock-weed and saw many whales, and
albatrosses and other seabirds.</p>
<p>Thursday 20.</p>
<p>On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes
south and longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon
the wind, which had for some time past been northerly, suddenly
shifted to the west-south-west and blew hard.</p>
<p>Sunday 23.</p>
<p>We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two
o'clock in the morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del
Fuego bearing south-east. At nine in the forenoon we were off
Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of Tierra del Fuego. Observed
the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east. The wind being
unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to the
eastward of Staten Land than to attempt passing through Straits
le Maire. The two opposite coasts of the Straits exhibited very
different appearances. The land of Tierra del Fuego hereabouts,
though the interior parts are mountainous, yet near the coast is
of a moderate height and, at the distance we were from it, had
not an unpromising appearance. The coast of Staten Land near the
Straits is mountainous and craggy, and remarkable for its high
peaked hills. Straits le Maire is a fair opening which cannot
well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, the different
appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the
Straits known.</p>
<p>I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that
we might have the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to
the heavy squalls that came off from the land. At noon Cape St.
Anthony bore south and the westernmost of New Year's Isles
south-east one-quarter south, five or six leagues. Latitude
observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64 degrees 4
minutes west.</p>
<p>The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in;
but the lateness of the season and the people being in good
health determined me to lay aside all thoughts of refreshment
until we should reach Otaheite. At two o'clock in the afternoon
the easternmost of New Year's Isles, where Captain Cook observed
the latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes south, bore from us
south four leagues. We saw the entrance isles of New Year's
harbour at the back of which the land is very craggy and
mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to touch at as
the access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies
south-south-east by compass from the north-east part of the
easternmost of the New Year's Islands.</p>
<p>About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed
the separation of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken
notice of, which has the appearance of Staten Land being there
divided into two islands.</p>
<p>At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six
leagues. The land hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged
as near New Year's Harbour. The night coming on I could get no
good view of the coast near the Cape; and at daylight next
morning we were at too great a distance.</p>
<p>Monday 24.</p>
<p>We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at
west-south-west and south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St.
John bore north-west ten leagues distant. Soon after we lost
sight of the land.</p>
<p>From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the
timekeeper, I make the longitude of the west side of Straits le
Maire 64 degrees 48 minutes west; the easternmost of the New
Year's isles 63 degrees 52 minutes west; and the longitude of
Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes west.</p>
<p>In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees
south the ship was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by
currents; and from the latitude of 48 degrees south to Staten
Land the currents set us to the westward 2 degrees 43 minutes;
which I imagine to have been occasioned by an indraught into the
Straits of Magellan.</p>
<p>From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the
month we were struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.</p>
<p>Monday 31.</p>
<p>But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the
north-north-east and made us entertain great hopes that we should
be able to accomplish our passage round the Cape without much
difficulty. At noon we were in latitude 60 degrees 1 minute south
and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west longitude, which is 8 degrees
26 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St. John. This flattering
appearance was not of long continuance: in the night the wind
became variable and next day settled again in the west and
north-west with very bad weather.</p>
<p>April. Wednesday 2.</p>
<p>On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all
night from the north-west, came round to the south-west and
increased to a heavy gale. At six in the morning the storm
exceeded what I had ever met with before; and the sea, from the
frequent shifting of the wind, running in contrary directions,
broke exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very well under a
main and fore-stay sail. The gale continued with severe squalls
of hail and sleet the remainder of this and all the next day.</p>
<p>Friday 4.</p>
<p>On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate.
With so much bad weather I found it necessary to keep a constant
fire night and day; and one of the watch always attended to dry
the people's wet clothes: and this I have no doubt contributed as
much to their health as to their comfort.</p>
<p>Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses
and two beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and
pintada. A great many of these were frequently about the wake of
the ship, which induced the people to float a line with hooks
baited to endeavour to catch them and their attempts were
successful. The method they used was to fasten the bait a foot or
two before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk when
the bird was at the bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.</p>
<p>Sunday 6.</p>
<p>On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the
9th with the wind veering between the north-west and south-west;
of which we were able to take advantage.</p>
<p>Monday 7.</p>
<p>On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east;
our latitude 60 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees
54 minutes west.</p>
<p>Wednesday 9.</p>
<p>On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes
south and our longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is
farther to the west than we had yet been. The weather was now
unfavourable again, blowing strong from the westward with a high
sea.</p>
<p>On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about
the size of bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this
high latitude.</p>
<p>Saturday 12.</p>
<p>The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now
began to complain and required to be pumped every hour; which was
no more than we had reason to expect from such a continuance of
gales of wind and high seas. The decks also became so leaky that
it was obliged to allot the great cabin, of which I made little
use except in fine weather, to those people who had wet berths to
hang their hammocks in, and by this means the between decks was
less crowded.</p>
<p>Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they
hung, and when the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck
they were put in the cabin; so that the between decks were
cleaned daily and aired with fires if the hatchways could not be
opened. With all this bad weather we had the additional
mortification to find at the end of every day that we were losing
ground; for notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on
the most advantageous tacks (which if the weather had been at all
moderate would have sufficiently answered our purpose) yet the
greater part of the time we were doing little better than
drifting before the wind.</p>
<p>Sunday 13.</p>
<p>Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught;
and for the first time since we left Staten Land we saw some
whales. This morning, owing to the violent motion of the ship,
the cook fell and broke one of his ribs, and another man, by a
fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner who had the charge of a
watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this was the first
sicklist that appeared on board the ship. The time of full moon
which was approaching made me entertain hopes that after that
period we should experience some change of wind or weather in our
favour; but the event did not at all answer our expectations. The
latitude at noon this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and
longitude 76 degrees 1 minute west.</p>
<p>As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and
tasted fishy we tried an experiment upon them which succeeded
admirably. By keeping them cooped up and cramming them with
ground corn they improved wonderfully in a short time; so that
the pintada birds became as fine as ducks, and the albatrosses
were as fat, and not inferior in taste to, fine geese. Some of
the latter birds were caught that measured seven feet between the
extremities of the wings when spread. This unexpected supply came
very opportunely; for none of our livestock remained except hogs,
the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to stand the
severity of the weather.</p>
<p>Sunday 20.</p>
<p>This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few
hours which gave us hopes that the next would be a more
favourable wind. A hog was killed for the ship's company which
gave them an excellent meal. Towards noon, to our great
disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the westward and in
the afternoon blew strong with snow and hailstorms.</p>
<p>Monday 21.</p>
<p>This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have
remarked before, it had no influence on the weather. At noon our
latitude was 58 degrees 31 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees
7 minutes west, which is near seven degrees to the eastward of
our situation on the morning of the 9th instant, when we had
advanced the farthest in our power to the westward, being then in
76 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the west of Cape
Deseada, the west part of the Straits of Magellan; and at this
time we were 3 degrees 52 minutes to the east of it and hourly
losing ground.</p>
<p>It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even
unjustifiable it was to persist any longer in attempting a
passage this way to the Society Islands. We had been thirty days
in this tempestuous ocean. At one time we had advanced so far to
the westward as to have a fair prospect of making our passage
round; but from that period hard gales of westerly wind had
continued without intermission, a few hours excepted, which, to
borrow an expression in Lord Anson's voyage, were "like the
elements drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled
violence." The season was now too far advanced for us to expect
more favourable winds or weather, and we had sufficiently
experienced the impossibility of beating round against the wind,
or of advancing at all without the help of a fair wind for which
there was little reason to hope. Another consideration which had
great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this
way and should after all fail to get round, it would occasion
such a loss of time that our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to
return in the proper season by the East Indies would be rendered
precarious. On the other hand the prevalence of the westerly
winds in high southern latitudes left me no reason to doubt of
making a quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and thence to the
eastward round New Holland.</p>
<p>Tuesday 22.</p>
<p>Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to
bear away for the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the
evening of the 22nd, the wind then blowing strong at west, I
ordered the helm to be put a weather, to the great joy of every
person on board. Our sicklist at this time had increased to
eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in other respects the
people were in good health, though exceedingly jaded.</p>
<p>The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the
summer months has seldom been attended with difficulty and is to
be preferred in the moderate seasons to the more distant route to
the eastward round the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland. If we
had been one month earlier, or perhaps less, I doubt not but we
should have effected our passage.</p>
<p>The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from
the latitude of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very
convenient to enable ships to judge of their distance from the
land, as thick fogs are very frequent near that coast. If the
winds are favourable, to go through Straits le Maire must
considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn, as all the
distance saved is so much gained to the westward. I am informed
that several harbours have been lately discovered by the South
Sea whalers on the north side of Staten Island that afford safe
anchorage with supplies of wood and water.</p>
<p>While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our
situation was at all affected by currents.</p>
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