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<h2> CHAP. IV. <i>Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown</i> Malts. </h2>
<p>The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has
had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due
care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full
quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown
high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings <i>per</i>
Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious sort to
the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and nearest
to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and Balsamick
quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of this Malt
bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of the great
Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and binding
Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt, either in
Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters in brewing
of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that which is
dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is very much
in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant, its taste
agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd by many as
the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or soft waters,
or a mixture of both.</p>
<p>The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so
hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often
so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its
essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant
Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he
does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion
the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and
is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts,
being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the
Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made
from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this
reason the <i>London</i> Brewers mostly use the <i>Thames</i> or <i>New
River</i> waters to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature,
whereby it agrees with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the
well or other hard Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and
a But-beer that will keep very well five or six Months, but after that
time it generally grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve
Bushels allowed to the Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly.</p>
<p>Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright
pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak
to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish,
that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or
Fern, &c. The Coak or <i>Welch</i> Coal also makes more true and
compleat Malt, as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its
fire gives both a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all
their Parts gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained
such a Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts
of the Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make
such fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my
Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty
Miles from <i>London</i>.</p>
<p>Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best
tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat,
Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of
the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more
uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a
moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the
taste of the smoak.</p>
<p>Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. the Straw-dryed
is not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few
can bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its
strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of <i>England</i>,
and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used in <i>London</i>
for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it sold for two
Shillings <i>per</i> Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt, nor was
this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its Brewers,
for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the Age of the
Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were used in its
Preservation.</p>
<p>The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from
the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed,
as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our
Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty.</p>
<p>At <i>Bridport</i> in <i>Dorsetshire</i>, I knew an Inn-keeper use half
Pale and half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my
Palate the best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted
for, in that the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed,
must produce a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will
reduce those extreams to a proper Quality.</p>
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