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<h2> CHAPTER VIII. </h2>
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<p>In a little while all interest was taken up in stretching our necks and
watching for the "pony-rider"—the fleet messenger who sped across
the continent from St. Joe to Sacramento, carrying letters nineteen
hundred miles in eight days! Think of that for perishable horse and human
flesh and blood to do! The pony-rider was usually a little bit of a man,
brimful of spirit and endurance. No matter what time of the day or night
his watch came on, and no matter whether it was winter or summer, raining,
snowing, hailing, or sleeting, or whether his "beat" was a level straight
road or a crazy trail over mountain crags and precipices, or whether it
led through peaceful regions or regions that swarmed with hostile Indians,
he must be always ready to leap into the saddle and be off like the wind!
There was no idling-time for a pony-rider on duty. He rode fifty miles
without stopping, by daylight, moonlight, starlight, or through the
blackness of darkness—just as it happened. He rode a splendid horse
that was born for a racer and fed and lodged like a gentleman; kept him at
his utmost speed for ten miles, and then, as he came crashing up to the
station where stood two men holding fast a fresh, impatient steed, the
transfer of rider and mail-bag was made in the twinkling of an eye, and
away flew the eager pair and were out of sight before the spectator could
get hardly the ghost of a look. Both rider and horse went "flying light."
The rider's dress was thin, and fitted close; he wore a "round-about," and
a skull-cap, and tucked his pantaloons into his boot-tops like a
race-rider. He carried no arms—he carried nothing that was not
absolutely necessary, for even the postage on his literary freight was
worth five dollars a letter.</p>
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<p>He got but little frivolous correspondence to carry—his bag had
business letters in it, mostly. His horse was stripped of all unnecessary
weight, too. He wore a little wafer of a racing-saddle, and no visible
blanket. He wore light shoes, or none at all. The little flat mail-pockets
strapped under the rider's thighs would each hold about the bulk of a
child's primer. They held many and many an important business chapter and
newspaper letter, but these were written on paper as airy and thin as
gold-leaf, nearly, and thus bulk and weight were economized. The stage-
coach traveled about a hundred to a hundred and twenty-five miles a day
(twenty-four hours), the pony-rider about two hundred and fifty. There
were about eighty pony-riders in the saddle all the time, night and day,
stretching in a long, scattering procession from Missouri to California,
forty flying eastward, and forty toward the west, and among them making
four hundred gallant horses earn a stirring livelihood and see a deal of
scenery every single day in the year.</p>
<p>We had had a consuming desire, from the beginning, to see a pony-rider,
but somehow or other all that passed us and all that met us managed to
streak by in the night, and so we heard only a whiz and a hail, and the
swift phantom of the desert was gone before we could get our heads out of
the windows. But now we were expecting one along every moment, and would
see him in broad daylight. Presently the driver exclaims:</p>
<p>"HERE HE COMES!"</p>
<p>Every neck is stretched further, and every eye strained wider. Away across
the endless dead level of the prairie a black speck appears against the
sky, and it is plain that it moves. Well, I should think so!</p>
<p>In a second or two it becomes a horse and rider, rising and falling,
rising and falling—sweeping toward us nearer and nearer—growing
more and more distinct, more and more sharply defined—nearer and
still nearer, and the flutter of the hoofs comes faintly to the ear—another
instant a whoop and a hurrah from our upper deck, a wave of the rider's
hand, but no reply, and man and horse burst past our excited faces, and go
winging away like a belated fragment of a storm!</p>
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<p>So sudden is it all, and so like a flash of unreal fancy, that but for the
flake of white foam left quivering and perishing on a mail-sack after the
vision had flashed by and disappeared, we might have doubted whether we
had seen any actual horse and man at all, maybe.</p>
<p>We rattled through Scott's Bluffs Pass, by and by. It was along here
somewhere that we first came across genuine and unmistakable alkali water
in the road, and we cordially hailed it as a first-class curiosity, and a
thing to be mentioned with eclat in letters to the ignorant at home. This
water gave the road a soapy appearance, and in many places the ground
looked as if it had been whitewashed. I think the strange alkali water
excited us as much as any wonder we had come upon yet, and I know we felt
very complacent and conceited, and better satisfied with life after we had
added it to our list of things which we had seen and some other people had
not. In a small way we were the same sort of simpletons as those who climb
unnecessarily the perilous peaks of Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, and
derive no pleasure from it except the reflection that it isn't a common
experience. But once in a while one of those parties trips and comes
darting down the long mountain-crags in a sitting posture, making the
crusted snow smoke behind him, flitting from bench to bench, and from
terrace to terrace, jarring the earth where he strikes, and still glancing
and flitting on again, sticking an iceberg into himself every now and
then, and tearing his clothes, snatching at things to save himself, taking
hold of trees and fetching them along with him, roots and all, starting
little rocks now and then, then big boulders, then acres of ice and snow
and patches of forest, gathering and still gathering as he goes, adding
and still adding to his massed and sweeping grandeur as he nears a three
thousand-foot precipice, till at last he waves his hat magnificently and
rides into eternity on the back of a raging and tossing avalanche!</p>
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<p>This is all very fine, but let us not be carried away by excitement, but
ask calmly, how does this person feel about it in his cooler moments next
day, with six or seven thousand feet of snow and stuff on top of him?</p>
<p>We crossed the sand hills near the scene of the Indian mail robbery and
massacre of 1856, wherein the driver and conductor perished, and also all
the passengers but one, it was supposed; but this must have been a
mistake, for at different times afterward on the Pacific coast I was
personally acquainted with a hundred and thirty-three or four people who
were wounded during that massacre, and barely escaped with their lives.
There was no doubt of the truth of it—I had it from their own lips.
One of these parties told me that he kept coming across arrow-heads in his
system for nearly seven years after the massacre; and another of them told
me that he was struck so literally full of arrows that after the Indians
were gone and he could raise up and examine himself, he could not restrain
his tears, for his clothes were completely ruined.</p>
<p>The most trustworthy tradition avers, however, that only one man, a person
named Babbitt, survived the massacre, and he was desperately wounded. He
dragged himself on his hands and knee (for one leg was broken) to a
station several miles away. He did it during portions of two nights, lying
concealed one day and part of another, and for more than forty hours
suffering unimaginable anguish from hunger, thirst and bodily pain. The
Indians robbed the coach of everything it contained, including quite an
amount of treasure.</p>
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