<h2>CHAPTER XXXIII</h2>
<h3>If this were All</h3>
<div class='cap'>AN hour earlier three of us had stood together by
the pool at the foot of the Falls, and watched the
people bathe. At the edge of the rock an old grandmother
had dealt valiantly with an indignant baby of two,
whom, despite its struggles, she bathed after prolonged
preparation of divers anointings, by holding it grimly,
kicking and slippery though it was, under what must have
seemed to it a terrible hurrying horror. When at last that
baby emerged, it was too crushed in spirit to cry.</div>
<p>Beyond this little domestic scene was a group of half-reluctant
women, longing and yet fearing to venture under
the plunging waters; and beyond them again were the
bathers, crowding but never jostling each other, on the
narrow ledge upon and over which the Falls descend. Some
were standing upright, with bowed heads, under the strong
chastisement of the nearer heavier fall; some bent under it,
as if overwhelmed with the thundering thud of its waters.
Some were further on, where the white furies lash like living
whips, and scourge and sting and scurry; and there the
pilgrims were hardly visible, for the waters swept over them
like a veil, and they looked in their weirdness and muteness
like martyr ghosts. Further still some were carefully<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</SPAN></span>
climbing the steps cut into the cliff, or standing as high as
they could go upon an unguarded projection of rock, with
eyes shut and folded hands, entirely oblivious apparently to
the fact that showers of spray enveloped them, and the
deep pool lay below.</p>
<p>I had never seen anything quite like this: it was such a
strange commingling of the beautiful and sorrowful. The
women—"fair"-skinned Brahman women they chanced to
be—were in their usual graceful raiment of silk or cotton,
all shades of soft reds, crimson, purple, blue, lightened with
yellow and orange, which in the water looked like dull fire.
Their golden and silver jewels gleamed in the sunlight, and
their long black hair hung round faces like the faces one
sees in pictures. The men wore their ordinary white, and
the ascetics the salmon-tinted saffron of their profession.</p>
<div class="sidenote">Under the Waterfall</div>
<p>Then, as if to add an ethereal touch to it all, a rainbow
spanned the Falls at that moment, and we saw the pilgrims
through it or arched by it as they stood, some at either end
of the bow where the colours painted the rock and the spray,
and some in the space between. The sun struck the forest
hanging on the steeps above, and it became a vivid thing in
quick delight of greenness. It was something which, once
seen, could hardly be forgotten. The triumphant stream of
white set deep in the heart of a great horseshoe of rock
and woods; the delicate, exquisite pleasure of colour; and the
people in their un-self-consciousness, bathing and worshipping
just as they wished, with for background rock and spray, and
for a halo rainbow. To one who looked with sympathy the
picture was a parable. You could not but see visions: you
could not but dream dreams.</p>
<p>Then from the quiet heights crept a colony of monkeys,
their chatter drowned in the roar of the Falls. On they
came, wise and quaint, like the half-heard whispers of old-time
jokes. And they bathed in the mimic pools above, as<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</SPAN></span>
it seemed in imitation of the pilgrims, holding comical little
heads under the light trickles.</p>
<p>And below the scene changed as a company of widows
came and entered the Falls. They were all Brahmans and
all old, and they shivered in their poor scanty garments of
coarse white. Most of them were frail with long fasting and
penance, and they prayed as they stood in the water or
crouched under its weight. Such a one had sat on the stone
under the special fall which, as the friend who had taken me
observed with more forcefulness than sentiment, "comes down
like a sack of potatoes." I had tried to stand it for a minute,
but it pelted and pounded me so that less than a minute was
enough, and I moved to make room for a Brahman widow
who was bathing with me. And then she sat down on the
stone, and the waters beat very heavily on the old grey head;
but she sat on in her patience, her hands covering her face,
and she prayed without one moment's intermission. How
little she knew of the other prayer that rose beside hers
through the rushing water—it was the first time I at least
had ever prayed in a waterfall—"Oh, send forth Thy light
and Thy truth; let them lead her!" She struggled up at
last and caught my hand; then, steadying herself with an
effort, she felt for the iron rod that protects the ledge, and
blinded by the driving spray and benumbed by the beat of
the water, she stumbled slowly out. But the wistful face
had a look of content upon it, and her only concern was to
finish the ceremonial out in the sunshine—she had brought
her little offerings of a few flowers with her—and so, much
as I longed to follow her and tell her of the cleansing of which
this was only a type, it could not have been then. Oh, the
rest it is at such a time to remember that the Lord is good
to all, and His tender mercies are over all His works.</p>
<p>Below the pool, in the broad bed of the stream and on
its banks, all was animation and happy simple life. Here<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</SPAN></span>
the women were drying their garments, without taking them
off, in a clever fashion of their own. There some were washing
them in the stream. Children played about as they willed.
But in and among the throng, anywhere, everywhere, we
saw worshippers, standing or sitting facing the east, alone
or in company, chanting names for the deity, or adoring
and meditating in silence. Doubtless some were formal
enough, but some were certainly sincere; and we felt if
this were all there is to know in Hinduism, the time must
soon come when a people so prepared would recognise in
the Saviour and Lover of their souls, Him for whom they
had been seeking so long, "if haply they might feel after
Him and find Him."</p>
<p>But this is not all there is to know. Back out of sight
behind the simple joyousness of life, to which the wholesome
waters and the sparkling air and the beauty everywhere so
graciously ministered, behind that wonderful wealth of
thought as revealed in the Higher Hinduism which is born
surely of nothing less than a longing after God—behind all
this what do we find? Glory of mountain and waterfall,
charm and delight of rainbow in spray; but what lies behind
the coloured veil? What symbols are carved into the cliff?
Whose name and power do they represent?</p>
<p>This book touches one of the hidden things; would that
we could forget it! Sometimes, through these days as we
sat on the rocks by the waterside, in the unobtrusive fashion
of the Indian religious teacher, who makes no noise but waits
for those who care to come, we have almost forgotten in
the happiness of human touch with the people, the lovable
women and children more especially, that anything dark and
wicked and sad lay so very near. And then, suddenly as we
have told, we have been reminded of it. We may not forgot
it if we would. It is true that the thing we mean is disowned
by the spiritual few, but to the multitude it is part of their<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</SPAN></span>
religion. "Of course, Temple women must adopt young children;
and they must be carefully trained, or they will not
be meet for the service of the gods." So said the Brahman
who only a moment before had led me into the mystic land,
deep within which he loves to dwell: what does the training
mean?</p>
<div class="sidenote">To-morrow, How will it Be?</div>
<p>A fortnight ago the friend to whom the child is dear took
me to see the little girl described in a letter from an Indian
sister as "a little dove in a cage." I did not find that she
minded her cage. The bars have been gilded, the golden
glitter has dazzled the child. She thinks her cage a pretty
place, and she does not beat against its bars as she did in
the earlier days of her captivity. As we talked with her
we understood the change. When first she was taken from
school the woman to whose training her mother has committed
her gave her polluting poetry to read and learn, and
she shrank from it, and would slip her Bible over the open
page and read it instead. But gradually the poetry seemed
less impossible; the atmosphere in which those vile stories
grew and flourished was all about her; as she breathed it
day by day she became accustomed to it; the sense of being
stifled passed. The process of mental acclimatisation is not
yet completed, the lovely little face is still pure and strangely
innocent in its expression; but there is a change, and it
breaks the heart of the friend who loves her to see it.
"I must learn my poetry. They will be angry if I do not
learn it. What can I do?" And again, "Oh, the stories
do not mean anything," said with a downward glance,
as if the child-conscience still protested. But this was
a fortnight ago. It is worse with that little girl to-day;
there is less inward revolt; and to-morrow how will it
be with her?<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</SPAN></span></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</SPAN></span></p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />