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Cakes & Ale, A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious

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<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/cover.jpg" width-obs="496" height-obs="800" alt="" /> <div class="caption"></div> </div> <hr class="chap" /> [Pg i] <h1>CAKES AND ALE</h1> <hr class="chap" /> [Pg ii] <table summary="ad" border="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" id="table3"> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px; border-top-style: solid; border-top-width: 2px">BY THE SAME AUTHOR </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">————————</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">THE FLOWING BOWL</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc sf" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">A TREATISE ON DRINKS OF ALL KINDS</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc sf" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">AND OF ALL PERIODS, INTERSPERSED</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc sf" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">WITH SUNDRY ANECDOTES AND</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc sf" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">REMINISCENCES</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc sf" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">BY</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">EDWARD SPENCER</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">(‘NATHANIEL GUBBINS’)</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">Author of “Cakes and Ale,” etc.</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">Crown 8vo., cloth gilt, 2/6 net.</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">SECOND EDITION. </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"></td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">With cover design by the late Phil May.</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">————</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  “The Flowing Bowl” overflows with good</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  cheer. In the happy style that enlivens its</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  companion volume, “Cakes and Ale,” the</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  author gives a history of drinks and their</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  use, interspersed with innumerable recipes</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  for drinks new and old, dug out of records</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">  of ancient days, or set down anew.</td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px; border-top-style:solid; border-top-width:2px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px">London: STANLEY PAUL & CO.</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" style="border-left-style: solid; border-left-width: 2px; border-right-style: solid; border-right-width: 2px; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 2px">31, Essex Street, Strand, W.C.</td> </tr> </table> <hr class="chap" /> [Pg iii] <h1> CAKES & ALE</h1> <h4> A DISSERTATION ON BANQUETS</h4> <h5> INTERSPERSED WITH VARIOUS RECIPES, MORE OR LESS ORIGINAL, AND ANECDOTES, MAINLY VERACIOUS</h5> <h5> BY</h5> <h2> EDWARD SPENCER</h2> <h5> (‘NATHANIEL GUBBINS’) AUTHOR OF “THE FLOWING BOWL,” ETC.</h5> <h5> FOURTH EDITION</h5> <h3> STANLEY PAUL & CO. 31, Essex Street, Strand, W.C. </h3> <hr class="chap" /> [Pg iv] <h4> First printed April 1897 Reprinted May 1897 Cheap Edition February 1900 Reprinted 1913 </h4> <hr class="chap" /> [Pg v] TO THE MODERN LUCULLUS JOHN CORLETT GRANDEST OF HOSTS, BEST OF TRENCHER-MEN I DEDICATE (WITHOUT ANY SORT OF PERMISSION) THIS BOOK <hr class="chap" /> [Pg ix] <h2>PREFACE</h2> A long time ago, an estimable lady fell at the feet of an habitual publisher, and prayed unto him:— “Give, oh! give me the subject of a book for which the world has a need, and I will write it for you.” “Are you an author, madam?” asked the publisher, motioning his visitor to a seat. “No, sir,” was the proud reply, “I am a poet.” “Ah!” said the great man. “I am afraid there is no immediate worldly need of a poet. If you could only write a good cookery book, now!” The story goes on to relate how the poetess, not rebuffed in the least, started on the requisite culinary work, directly she got home; pawned her jewels to purchase postage stamps, and wrote far and wide for recipes, which in course of time she obtained, by the hundredweight. Other recipes she “conveyed” from ancient works of gastronomy, and in a year or two the magnum opus was given to the world; the lady’s share in the[Pg x] profits giving her “adequate provision for the remainder of her life.” We are not told, but it is presumable, that the publisher received a little adequate provision too. History occasionally repeats itself; and the history of the present work begins in very much the same way. Whether it will finish in an equally satisfactory manner is problematical. I do not possess much of the divine afflatus myself; but there has ever lurked within me some sort of ambition to write a book—something held together by “tree calf,” “half morocco,” or “boards”; something that might find its way into the hearts and homes of an enlightened public; something which will give some of my young friends ample opportunity for criticism. In the exercise of my profession I have written leagues of descriptive “copy”—mostly lies and racing selections,—but up to now there has been no urgent demand for a book of any sort from this pen. For years my ambition has remained ungratified. Publishers—as a rule, the most faint-hearted and least speculative of mankind—have held aloof. And whatever suggestions I might make were rejected, with determination, if not with contumely. At length came the hour, and the man; the introduction to a publisher with an eye for budding and hitherto misdirected talent. “Do you care, sir,” I inquired at the outset,[Pg xi] “to undertake the dissemination of a bulky work on Political Economy?” “Frankly, sir, I do not,” was the reply. Then I tried him with various subjects—social reform, the drama, bimetallism, the ethics of starting prices, the advantages of motor cars in African warfare, natural history, the martyrdom of Ananias, practical horticulture, military law, and dogs; until he took down an old duck-gun from a peg over the mantelpiece, and assumed a threatening attitude. Peace having been restored, the self-repetition of history recommenced. “I can do with a good, bold, brilliant, lightly treated, exhaustive work on Gastronomy,” said the publisher, “you are well acquainted with the subject, I believe?” “I’m a bit of a parlour cook, if that’s what you mean,” was my humble reply. “At a salad, a grill, an anchovy toast, or a cooling and cunningly compounded cup, I can be underwritten at ordinary rates. But I could no more cook a haunch of venison, or even boil a rabbit, or make an economical Christmas pudding, than I could sail a boat in a nor’-easter; and Madam Cook would certainly eject me from her kitchen, with a clout attached to the hem of my dinner jacket, inside five minutes.” Eventually it was decided that I should commence this book. [Pg xii] “What I want,” said the publisher, “is a series of essays on food, a few anecdotes of stirring adventure—you have a fine flow of imagination, I understand—and a few useful, but uncommon recipes. But plenty of plums in the book, my dear sir, plenty of plums.” “But, suppose my own supply of plums should not hold out, what am I to do?” “What do you do—what does the cook do, when the plums for her pudding run short? Get some more; the Museum, my dear sir, the great storehouse of national literature, is free to all whose character is above the normal standard. When your memory and imagination fail, try the British Museum. You know what is a mightier factor than both sword and pen? Precisely so. And remember that in replenishing your store from the works of those who have gone before, you are only following in their footsteps. I only bar Sydney Smith and Charles Lamb. Let me have the script by Christmas—d’you smoke?—mind the step—good morning.” In this way, gentle reader, were the trenches dug, the saps laid for the attack of the great work. The bulk of it is original, and the adventures in which the writer has taken part are absolutely true. About some of the others I would not be so positive. Some of the recipes have previously figured in the pages of the Sporting Times, the Lady’s Pictorial, and the Man of the World, to[Pg xiii] the proprietors of which journals I hereby express my kindly thanks for permission to revive them. Many of the recipes are original; some are my own; others have been sent in by relatives, and friends of my youth; others have been adapted for modern requirements from works of great antiquity; whilst others again—I am nothing if not candid—have been “conveyed” from the works of more modern writers, who in their turn had borrowed them from the works of their ancestors. There is nothing new under the sun; and there are but few absolute novelties which are subjected to the heat of the kitchen fire. If the style of the work be faulty, the reason—not the excuse—is that the style is innate, and not modelled upon anybody else’s style. The language I have endeavoured to make as plain, homely, and vigorous as is the food advocated. If the criticisms on foreign cookery should offend the talented chef, I have the satisfaction of knowing that, as I have forsworn his works, he will be unable to retaliate with poison. And if the criticisms on the modern English methods of preparing food should attract the attention of the home caterer, he may possibly be induced to give his steam-chest and his gas-range a rest, and put the roast beef of Old England on his table, occasionally; though I have only the very faintest hopes that he will do so. For the monster eating-houses and mammoth hotels of to-day are for the[Pg xiv] most part “run” by companies and syndicates; and the company within the dining-room suffer occasionally, in order that dividends may be possible after payment has been made for the elaborate, and wholly unnecessary, furniture, and decorations. Wholesome food is usually sufficient for the ordinary British appetite, without such surroundings as marble pillars, Etruscan vases, nude figures, gilding, and looking-glasses, which only serve to distract attention from the banquet. It is with many a sigh that I recall the good old-fashioned inn, where the guest really received a warm welcome. Nowadays, the warmest part of that welcome is usually the bill. It is related of the wittiest man of the nineteenth century, my late friend Mr. Henry J. Byron, that, upon one occasion, whilst walking home with a brother dramatist, after the first performance of his comedy, which had failed to please the audience, Byron shed tears. “How is this?” inquired his friend. “The failure of my play appears to affect you strangely.” “I was only weeping,” was the reply, “because I was afraid you’d set to work, and write another.” But there need be no tears shed on any page of this food book. For I am not going to “write another.” <hr class="chap" /> [Pg xv] <h2>CONTENTS</h2> <table summary="contents" border="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" id="table2"> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER I</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">BREAKFAST</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Formal or informal?—An eccentric old gentleman—The ancient</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Britons—Breakfast in the days of Good Queen Bess—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>few tea statistics—Garraway’s—Something about coffee—Brandy</td> </tr> <tr> <td>for breakfast—The evolution of the staff of life—Free</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Trade—The cheap loaf, and no cash to buy it </td> <td class="tdr">Pages 1-9</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER II</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">BREAKFAST (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Country-house life—An Englishwoman at her best—Guests’</td> </tr> <tr> <td>comforts—What to eat at the first meal—A few choice</td> </tr> <tr> <td>recipes—A noble grill-sauce—The poor outcast—Appetising</td> </tr> <tr> <td>dishes—Hotel “worries”—The old regime and the new—“No</td> </tr> <tr> <td>cheques”; no soles, and “whitings is hoff”—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>halibut steak—Skilly and oakum—Breakfast out of the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xvi]rates </td> <td class="tdr">10-21</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER III</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">BREAKFAST (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Bonnie Scotland—Parritch an’ cream—Fin’an haddies—A knife</td> </tr> <tr> <td>on the ocean wave—À la Français—In the gorgeous East—Chota</td> </tr> <tr> <td>hazri—English as she is spoke—Dâk bungalow fare—Some</td> </tr> <tr> <td>quaint dishes—Breakfast with “my tutor”—A Don’s</td> </tr> <tr> <td>absence of mind </td> <td class="tdr">22-33</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER IV</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">LUNCHEON</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Why lunch?—Sir Henry Thompson on overdoing it—The children’s</td> </tr> <tr> <td>dinner—City lunches—“Ye Olde Cheshyre Cheese”—Doctor</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Johnson—Ye pudding—A great fall in food—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>snipe pudding—Skirt, not rump steak—Lancashire hot-pot—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Cape “brady” </td> <td class="tdr">34-43</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER V</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">LUNCHEON (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Shooting luncheons—Cold tea and a crust—Clear turtle—Such</td> </tr> <tr> <td>larks!—Jugged duck and oysters—Woodcock pie—Hunting</td> </tr> <tr> <td>luncheons—Pie crusts—The true Yorkshire pie—Race-course</td> </tr> <tr> <td>luncheons—Suggestions to caterers—The “Jolly</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Sandboys” stew—Various recipes—A race-course sandwich—Angels’</td> </tr> <tr> <td>pie—“Suffolk pride”—Devilled larks—A light lunch</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xvii]in the Himalayas </td> <td class="tdr">44-58</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER VI</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">DINNER</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Origin—Early dinners—The noble Romans—“Vitellius the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Glutton”—Origin of haggis—The Saxons—Highland hospitality—The</td> </tr> <tr> <td>French invasion—Waterloo avenged—The bad</td> </tr> <tr> <td>fairy “Ala”—Comparisons—The English cook or the foreign</td> </tr> <tr> <td>food torturer?—Plain or flowery—Fresh fish and the flavour</td> </tr> <tr> <td>wrapped up—George Augustus Sala—Doctor Johnson</td> </tr> <tr> <td>again  </td> <td class="tdr">59-72</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER VII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">DINNER (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Imitation—Dear Lady Thistlebrain—Try it on the dog—Criminality</td> </tr> <tr> <td>of the English caterer—The stove, the stink,</td> </tr> <tr> <td>the steamer—Roasting v. baking—False economy—Dirty</td> </tr> <tr> <td>ovens—Frills and fingers—Time over dinner—A long-winded</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Bishop—Corned beef </td> <td class="tdr">73-81</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER VIII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">DINNER (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>A merry Christmas—Bin F—A Noel banquet—Water-cress—How</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Royalty fares—The Tsar—Bouillabaisse—Tournedos—Bisque—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Vol-au-vent—Pré salé—Chinese banquets—A fixed</td> </tr> <tr> <td>bayonet—Bernardin Salmi—The duck-squeezer—American</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xviii]cookery—“Borston” beans—He couldn’t eat beef </td> <td class="tdr">82-96</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER IX</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">DINNER (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>French soup—A regimental dinner—A city banquet—Baksheesh—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Aboard ship—An ideal dinner—Cod’s liver—Sleeping in the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>kitchen—A fricandeau—Regimental messes—Peter the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Great—Napoleon the Great—Victoria—The Iron Duke—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Mushrooms—A medical opinion—A North Pole banquet—Dogs</td> </tr> <tr> <td>as food—Plain unvarnished fare—The Kent Road</td> </tr> <tr> <td>cookery—More beans than bacon </td> <td class="tdr">97-110</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER X</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">VEGETABLES</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Use and abuse of the potato—Its eccentricities—Its origin—Hawkins,</td> </tr> <tr> <td>not Raleigh, introduced it into England—With or</td> </tr> <tr> <td>without the “jacket”?—Don’t let it be à-la-ed—Benevolence</td> </tr> <tr> <td>and large-heartedness of the cabbage family—Pease on</td> </tr> <tr> <td>earth—Pythagoras on the bean—“Giving him beans”—“Haricot”</td> </tr> <tr> <td>a misnomer—“Borston” beans—Frijoles—The</td> </tr> <tr> <td>carrot—Crécy soup—The Prince of Wales—The Black</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Prince and the King of Bohemia </td> <td class="tdr">111-122</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XI</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">VEGETABLES (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>The brief lives of the best—A vegetable with a pedigree—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Argenteuil—The Elysian Fields—The tomato the emblem of</td> </tr> <tr> <td>love—“Neeps”—Spinach—“Stomach-brush”—The savoury</td> </tr> <tr> <td>tear-provoker—Invaluable for wasp-stings—Celery merely</td> </tr> <tr> <td>cultivated “smallage”—The “Apium”—The parsnip—O</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Jerusalem!—The golden sunflower—How to get pheasants—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xix]vegetarian banquet—“Swelling wisibly” </td> <td class="tdr">123-133</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CURRIES</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Different modes of manufacture—The “native” fraud—“That</td> </tr> <tr> <td>man’s family”—The French kari—A Parsee curry—“The</td> </tr> <tr> <td>oyster in the sauce”—Ingredients—Malay curry—Locusts—When</td> </tr> <tr> <td>to serve—What to curry—Prawn curry—Dry curry,</td> </tr> <tr> <td>champion recipe—Rice—The Bombay duck </td> <td class="tdr">134-146</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XIII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">SALADS</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Nebuchadnezzar v. Sydney Smith—Salt?—No salad-bowl—French</td> </tr> <tr> <td>origin—Apocryphal story of Francatelli—Salads and</td> </tr> <tr> <td>salads—Water-cress and dirty water—Salad-maker born</td> </tr> <tr> <td>not made—Lobster salad—Lettuce, Wipe or wash?—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Mayonnaise—Potato salad—Tomato ditto—Celery ditto—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>memorable ditto </td> <td class="tdr">147-157</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XIV</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">SALADS AND CONDIMENTS</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Roman salad—Italian ditto—Various other salads—Sauce for</td> </tr> <tr> <td>cold mutton—Chutnine—Raw chutnee—Horse-radish sauce—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Christopher North’s sauce—How to serve a mackerel—Sauce</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Tartare—Ditto for sucking pig—Delights of making</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xx]Sambal—A new language </td> <td class="tdr">158-169</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XV</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">SUPPER</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Cleopatra’s supper—Oysters—Danger in the Aden bivalve—Oyster</td> </tr> <tr> <td>stew—Ball suppers—Pretty dishes—The Taj Mahal—Aspic—Bloater</td> </tr> <tr> <td>paste and whipped cream—Ladies’ recipes—Cookery</td> </tr> <tr> <td>colleges—Tripe—Smothered in onions—North</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Riding fashion—An hotel supper—Lord Tomnoddy at the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>“Magpie and Stump” </td> <td class="tdr">170-180</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XVI</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">SUPPER (continued)</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Old supper-houses—The Early Closing Act—Evans’s—Cremorne</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Gardens—“The Albion”—Parlour cookery—Kidneys fried</td> </tr> <tr> <td>in the fire-shovel—The true way to grill a bone—“Cannie</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Carle”—My lady’s bower—Kidney dumplings—A Middleham</td> </tr> <tr> <td>supper—Steaks cut from a colt by brother to “Strafford”</td> </tr> <tr> <td>out of sister to “Bird on the Wing” </td> <td class="tdr">181-191</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XVII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">“CAMPING OUT”</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>The ups and downs of life—Stirring adventures—Marching on to</td> </tr> <tr> <td>glory—Shooting in the tropics—Pepper-pot—With the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Rajah Sahib—Goat-sacrifices at breakfast time—Simla to</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Cashmere—Manners and customs of Thibet—Burmah—No</td> </tr> <tr> <td>place to get fat in—Insects—Voracity of the natives—Snakes—Sport</td> </tr> <tr> <td>in the Jungle—Loaded for snipe, sure to</td> </tr> <tr> <td>meet tiger—With the gippos—No baked hedgehog—Cheap</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xxi]milk </td> <td class="tdr">192-205</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XVIII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">COMPOUND DRINKS</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Derivation of punch—“Five”—The “milk” brand—The best</td> </tr> <tr> <td>materials—Various other punches—Bischoff or Bishop—“Halo”</td> </tr> <tr> <td>punch—Toddy—The toddy tree of India—Flip—A</td> </tr> <tr> <td>“peg”—John Collins—Out of the guard-room </td> <td class="tdr">206-218</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XIX</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CUPS AND CORDIALS</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Five recipes for claret cup—Balaclava cup—Orgeat—Ascot cup—Stout</td> </tr> <tr> <td>and champagne—Shandy-gaff for millionaires—Ale</td> </tr> <tr> <td>cup—Cobblers which will stick to the last—Home Ruler—Cherry</td> </tr> <tr> <td>brandy—Sloe gin—Home-made, if possible—A new</td> </tr> <tr> <td>industry—Apricot brandy—Highland cordial—Bitters—Jumping-</td> </tr> <tr> <td>powder—Orange brandy—“Mandragora”—“Sleep</td> </tr> <tr> <td>rock thy brain!” </td> <td class="tdr">219-231</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XX</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">THE DAYLIGHT DRINK</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Evil effects of dram-drinking—The “Gin-crawl”—Abstinence in</td> </tr> <tr> <td>H.M. service—City manners and customs—Useless to argue</td> </tr> <tr> <td>with the soaker—Cocktails—Pet names for drams—The</td> </tr> <tr> <td>free lunch system—Fancy mixtures—Why no cassis?—Good</td> </tr> <tr> <td>[Pg xxii]advice like water on a duck’s back </td> <td class="tdr">232-245</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXI</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">GASTRONOMY IN FICTION AND DRAMA</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Thomas Carlyle—Thackeray—Harrison Ainsworth—Sir Walter</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Scott—Miss Braddon—Marie Corelli—F. C. Philips—Blackmore—</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Charles Dickens—Pickwick reeking with alcohol—Brandy</td> </tr> <tr> <td>and oysters—Little Dorrit—Great Expectations—Micawber</td> </tr> <tr> <td>as a punch-maker—David Copperfield—“Practicable”</td> </tr> <tr> <td>food on the stage—“Johnny” Toole’s story of Tiny</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Tim and the goose </td> <td class="tdr">246-259</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">CHAPTER XXII</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc">RESTORATIVES</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>William of Normandy—A “head” wind at sea—Beware the</td> </tr> <tr> <td>druggist—Pick-me-ups of all sorts and conditions—Anchovy</td> </tr> <tr> <td>toast for the invalid—A small bottle—Straight talks to</td> </tr> <tr> <td>fanatics—Total abstinence as bad as the other thing—Moderation</td> </tr> <tr> <td>in all matters—Wisely and slow—Carpe diem—But</td> </tr> <tr> <td>have a thought for the morrow </td> <td class="tdr">260-274</td> </tr> </table> <hr class="chap" /> [Pg 1] <div style="break-after:column;"></div>

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