<h2>THE PLAID</h2>
<p>It is disconcerting to hear of the plaid in India. Our dyes,
we know, they use in the silk mills of Bombay, with the deplorable result
that their old clothes are dull and unintentionally falsified with infelicitous
decay. The Hindus are a washing people; and the sun and water
that do but dim, soften, and warm the native vegetable dyes to the last,
do but burlesque the aniline. Magenta is bad enough when it is
itself; but the worst of magenta is that it spoils but poorly.
No bad modern forms and no bad modern colours spoil well. And
spoiling is an important process. It is a test—one of the
ironical tests that come too late with their proofs. London portico-houses
will make some such ruins as do chemical dyes, which undergo no use
but derides them, no accidents but caricature them. This is an
old enough grievance. But the plaid!</p>
<p>The plaid is the Scotchman’s contribution to the decorative
art of the world. Scotland has no other indigenous decoration.
In his most admirable lecture on “The Two Paths,” Ruskin
acknowledged, with a passing misgiving, that his Highlanders had little
art. And the misgiving was but passing, because he considered
how fatally wrong was the art of India—“it never represents
a natural fact. It forms its compositions out of meaningless fragments
of colour and flowings of line . . . It will not draw a man, but an
eight-armed monster; it will not draw a flower, but only a spiral or
a zig-zag.” Because of this aversion from Nature the Hindu
and his art tended to evil, we read. But of the Scot we are told,
“You will find upon reflection that all the highest points of
the Scottish character are connected with impressions derived straight
from the natural scenery of their country.”</p>
<p>What, then, about the plaid? Where is the natural fact there?
If the Indian, by practising a non-natural art of spirals and zig-zags,
cuts himself off “from all possible sources of healthy knowledge
or natural delight,” to what did the good and healthy Highlander
condemn himself by practising the art of the plaid? A spiral may
be found in the vine, and a zig-zag in the lightning, but where in nature
is the plaid to be found? There is surely no curve or curl that
can be drawn by a designing hand but is a play upon some infinitely
various natural fact. The smoke of the cigarette, more sensitive
in motion than breath or blood, has its waves so multitudinously inflected
and reinflected, with such flights and such delays, it flows and bends
upon currents of so subtle influence and impulse as to include the most
active, impetuous, and lingering curls ever drawn by the finest Oriental
hand—and that is not a Hindu hand, nor any hand of Aryan race.
The Japanese has captured the curve of the section of a sea-wave—its
flow, relaxation, and fall; but this is a single movement, whereas the
line of cigarette-smoke in a still room fluctuates in twenty delicate
directions. No, it is impossible to accept the saying that the
poor spiral or scroll of a human design is anything but a participation
in the innumerable curves and curls of nature.</p>
<p>Now the plaid is not only “cut off” from natural sources,
as Ruskin says of Oriental design—the plaid is not only cut off
from nature, and cut off from nature by the yard, for it is to be measured
off in inorganic quantity; but it is even a kind of intentional contradiction
of all natural or vital forms. And it is equally defiant of vital
tone and of vital colour. Everywhere in nature tone is gradual,
and between the fainting of a tone and the failing of a curve there
is a charming analogy. But the tartan insists that its tone shall
be invariable, and sharply defined by contrasts of dark and light.
As to colour, it has colours, not colour.</p>
<p>But that plaid should now go so far afield as to decorate the noble
garment of the Indies is ill news. True, Ruskin saw nothing but
cruelty and corruption in Indian life or art; but let us hear an Indian
maxim in regard to those who, in cruel places, are ready sufferers:
“There,” says the <i>Mahabharata</i>, “where women
are treated with respect, the very gods are said to be filled with joy.
Women deserve to be honoured. Serve ye them. Bend your will
before them. By honouring women ye are sure to attain to the fruition
of all things.” And the rash teachers of our youth would
have persuaded us that this generous lesson was first learnt in Teutonic
forests!</p>
<p>Nothing but extreme lowliness can well reply, or would probably be
suffered to reply, to this Hindu profession of reverence. Accordingly
the woman so honoured makes an offering of cakes and oil to the souls
of her mother-in-law, grandmother-in-law, and great-grandmother-in-law,
in gratitude for their giving her a good husband. And to go back
for a moment to Ruskin’s contrast of the two races, it was assuredly
under the stress of some too rash reasoning that he judged the lovely
art of the East as a ministrant to superstition, cruelty, and pleasure,
whether wrought upon the temple, the sword, or the girdle. The
innocent art of innocent Hindu women for centuries decked their most
modest heads, their dedicated and sequestered beauty, their child-loving
breasts, and consecrated chambers.</p>
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