<h2>CHAPTER XXVI<br/> <small>IN THE RESTAURANT</small></h2>
<p class="drop-cap">THE woman who, for the first time, is taken
to dinner in a large restaurant is naturally
slightly confused by the experience. She needs,
however, to know only a few essential points in
order to be able to conduct herself with propriety
and to enjoy her evening. She and the man who
has taken her will leave their wraps in charge of
the maid or hat man at the door. If she has worn
a hat, she will retain this, but if she has gone in
a carriage or a car with only a light scarf about
her head, she need not be embarrassed, for many
of the women in the room will be without head-gear.
In this country, it is not customary for
women dining in public places to wear gowns cut
more than slightly low.</p>
<p>When the two are shown to their table, the
woman should remove her gloves, keeping them
in her lap or perhaps putting them on an empty
chair that is near. Neither the gloves nor a hand-bag
should ever be placed on the table. The man<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</SPAN></span>
should do the ordering, but as he will consult his
guest’s wishes, she should be prepared to express
these definitely and with sufficient promptness not
to keep the waiter standing too long. Unless something
very elaborate is desired, a plate of raw oysters,
a little fish or a bit of bird, a salad and a
sweet with coffee, with the things that go with
them, will suffice. The custom as to ordering is
not the same in all restaurants and if two women
be alone, the one who is acting as hostess should
ask whether the waiter wants the entire order at
once or not. Usually a slip of paper and pencil
are given which saves the possibility of mistake
on the part of the waiter. Frequently, the portions
of meat and salad and of some other dishes
are abundant for two persons, but it will be well
to make a friend of the waiter to the extent of
asking if this is the case.</p>
<hr class="tb" />
<p>The habit of certain fussy people when eating
in a restaurant of wiping off their plates before
they are served is intolerable—and foolish. It is
unpleasant for other people,—besides, if the plates
are not clean, there is no ground for faith in the
napkins.</p>
<p>To snap the fingers at a waiter is to stamp one’s
self as a vulgarian.</p>
<div class="sidenote">A MODERATE ORDER</div>
<p>Order within your means and display no anxiety<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</SPAN></span>
when toward the end of the meal the waiter lays
your bill face downward on the table. When you
are ready to pay it, satisfy yourself that it is correct
and place on the waiter’s tray a sum sufficient
to cover it and the amount of the tip custom says
you must give. If a mistake has been made, a quiet
word will usually prove a sufficient remedy.</p>
<hr class="tb" />
<div class="sidenote">THE MENU CARD</div>
<p>For the benefit of the woman, who for the first
time is confronted with the elaborate menu card
of an expensive restaurant, the following explanation
of terms is given:</p>
<div class="blockquot">
<p>“Aspic”—Meat jelly.</p>
<p>“Au Gratin”—Dishes covered with crumbs and
browned.</p>
<p>“Au Naturel”—Plain, simple. Potatoes cooked
in their jackets are “au naturel.”</p>
<p>“Barbecue”—To roast any animal whole, usually
in the open air.</p>
<p>“Bisque”—Soups made thick with mince and
crumbs.</p>
<p>“Blanch”—To parboil, to scald vegetables, nuts,
etc., in order to remove the skin.</p>
<p>“Blanquette”—Any white meat warmed in a
white sauce, thickened with eggs.</p>
<p>“Bouillon”—A clear broth.</p>
<p>“Bouquet”—A sprig of each of the herbs used in
seasoning, rolled up in a spray of parsley and tied
securely.</p>
<p>“Café au lait”—Coffee boiled with milk.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Café noir”—Black coffee.</p>
<p>“Camembert”—A brand of fancy cheese.</p>
<p>“Canapé”—Usually toast with cheese or potted
meat spread upon it. Sometimes made of pastry.</p>
<p>“Cannelon”—Meat stuffed, rolled up and roasted
or braised.</p>
<p>“Capers”—Unopened buds of a low trailing shrub
grown in southern Europe. Pickled and used in
sauces.</p>
<p>“Capon”—A chicken castrated for the sake of improving
the quality of the flesh.</p>
<p>“Caramel”—A sirup of burnt sugar, used for
flavoring custards, etc., and for coloring soups.</p>
<p>“Casserole”—A covered dish in which meat is
cooked; sometimes applied to forms of pastry, rice
or macaroni filled with meat.</p>
<p>“Champignons”—French mushrooms.</p>
<p>“Charlotte”—A preparation of cream or fruit,
formed in a mold, lined with fruit or cake.</p>
<p>“Chervil”—The leaf of a European plant used as
a salad.</p>
<p>“Chillies”—Red peppers.</p>
<p>“Chives”—An herb allied to the onion family.</p>
<p>“Chutney”—A hot acid sauce made from apples,
raisins, tomatoes, cayenne, ginger, garlic, shalots,
lemons, vinegar, salt and sugar.</p>
<p>“Comfitures”—Preserves.</p>
<p>“Compote”—Fruit stewed in sirup.</p>
<p>“Consommé”—Clear soup.</p>
<p>“Cream sugar and butter”—Is to rub the sugar
into the butter until they are well incorporated, then
beat light and smooth.</p>
<p>“Creole, A la”—With tomatoes.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Croquettes”—A savory mince of meat, or fowl,
or fish, or mashed potatoes, rice or other vegetables,
made into shapes and fried in deep fat.</p>
<p>“Croustade”—A kind of patty made of bread or
prepared rice.</p>
<p>“Croutons”—Small bits of crusted bread used in
soups or as garnishes.</p>
<p>“Croutons”—Bread dice fried.</p>
<p>“Crumpet”—Raised muffins baked on a griddle.</p>
<p>“Curries”—Stews of meat or fish, seasoned with
curry powder and served with rice.</p>
<p>“De Brie”—A brand of fancy cheese.</p>
<p>“Demi-tasse”—A small cup; term usually applied
to after-dinner coffee.</p>
<p>“Deviled”—Seasoned hotly.</p>
<p>“Eclair”—Pastry or cake filled with cream.</p>
<p>“En Coquille”—Served in shells.</p>
<p>“Endive”—A plant of the composite family used
as a salad.</p>
<p>“Entrées”—Small made dishes served between
courses at dinner.</p>
<p>“Entrements”—Second course side-dishes, including
vegetables, eggs and sweets.</p>
<p>“Farcie”—Stuffed.</p>
<p>“Fillets”—Long thin pieces of meat or fish, generally
rolled and tied.</p>
<p>“Fines herbes”—Minced parsley, etc.</p>
<p>“Finnan Haddock”—Haddock smoked and dried.</p>
<p>“Fondant”—Melting. Boiled sugar, the basis of
French candy.</p>
<p>“Fondue—A preparation of melted cheese.</p>
<p>“French dressing”—A simple salad dressing of
oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and sometimes mustard.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Galantine”—Meat, boned, stuffed, rolled and
boiled, always served cold.</p>
<p>“Glacé”—Iced.</p>
<p>“Glaze”—Stock boiled down to a thin paste.</p>
<p>“Grilled”—Broiled.</p>
<p>“Gruyére”—A brand of fancy cheese.</p>
<p>“Hors d’œuvres”—Relishes.</p>
<p>“Jardinière”—A mixed preparation of vegetables
stewed in their own sauce; a garnish of vegetables.</p>
<p>“Julienne”—A clear soup with shredded vegetables.</p>
<p>“Koumiss”—Milk fermented with yeast.</p>
<p>“Lardoon”—The piece of salt pork used in larding.</p>
<p>“Lentils”—A variety of the bean tribe used in
soups, etc.</p>
<p>“Marrons”—Chestnuts.</p>
<p>“Mayonnaise”—A salad dressing made of oil, the
yolks of eggs, vinegar or lemon juice, salt and
cayenne.</p>
<p>“Meringue”—The white of eggs whipped to a
standing froth with powdered sugar.</p>
<p>“Mousse”—Ice-cream made from whipped cream.</p>
<p>“Noodles”—Dough, cut into strips or other
shapes, dried and then dropped into soup.</p>
<p>“Nougat”—Almond candy.</p>
<p>“Paprika”—Hungarian sweet red pepper.</p>
<p>“Pâté”—Some preparation of pastry, usually a
small pie. Hence “patty-pans.”</p>
<p>“Pâté de foie gras”—Small pie filled with fat
goose liver.</p>
<p>“Pièce de résistance”—Principal dish at a meal.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Pilau”—East Indian or Turkish dish of meat
and rice.</p>
<p>“Pimento”—Jamaica pepper.</p>
<p>“Pimolas”—Small olives stuffed with pimento—<i>i.
e.</i>, sweet red pepper.</p>
<p>“Piquant”—Sharply flavored, as “sauce piquant,”
a highly seasoned sauce.</p>
<p>“Pistachio”—A pale greenish nut resembling the
almond.</p>
<p>“Polenta”—An Italian mush made of Indian
meal, or of ground chestnuts.</p>
<p>“Potage”—A family soup.</p>
<p>“Potpourri”—A highly seasoned stew of divers
materials—meat, spices, vegetables and the like; a
Spanish dish.</p>
<p>“Purée”—Vegetables or cereals cooked and
rubbed through a sieve to make a thick soup.</p>
<p>“Ragout”—Stewed meat in rich gravy.</p>
<p>“Ramakins”—A preparation of cheese and puff
paste or toast, baked or browned.</p>
<p>“Rechauffé”—Anything warmed over.</p>
<p>“Rissoles”—Minced meat, made into rolls covered
with pastry or rice, and fried.</p>
<p>“Rissotto”—Rice and cheese cooked together; an
Italian dish.</p>
<p>“Roquefort”—A brand of fancy cheese.</p>
<p>“Rôti”—Roasted.</p>
<p>“Roulade”—Meat stuffed, skewered into a roll
and cooked.</p>
<p>“Roux”—Butter and flour cooked together and
stirred in a smooth cream. A white roux is made
with uncooked flour; a brown, with flour that has<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</SPAN></span>
been browned by stirring it upon a tin plate over the
fire.</p>
<p>“Salmi”—A warmed-over dish of game, well seasoned.</p>
<p>“Sauté”—To fry lightly in hot fat or butter, not
deep enough to cover the thing cooked.</p>
<p>“Scalpion”—A mince of poultry, ham and other
meats used for entrées, or it may be a mixture of
fruits in a flavored sirup.</p>
<p>“Scones”—Scotch cakes of flour and meal.</p>
<p>“Shalot”—A variety of onion.</p>
<p>“Sorbet”—Frozen punch.</p>
<p>“Soubise”—A sort of onion sauce eaten with
meat.</p>
<p>“Soufflé”—A “trifle” pudding, beaten almost as
light as froth, then baked quickly.</p>
<p>“Supreme”—White cream gravy made of chicken.</p>
<p>“Tarragon”—An herb the leaves of which are
used for seasoning and in flavoring vinegar.</p>
<p>“Tartare”—As a “sauce tartare”—tart, acid.</p>
<p>“Timbale”—A small pie or pudding baked in a
mold and turned out while hot.</p>
<p>“To Braise Meat”—Cook in a covered pan in the
oven with stock, minced vegetables, and peas, beans,
etc., whole, and with savory herbs.</p>
<p>“To Marinate”—To cover with lemon juice or
vinegar and oil, or with spiced vinegar.</p>
<p>“Truffles”—A species of fungi growing in clusters
some inches below the surface of the ground.
Used in seasoning and for a garnish.</p>
<p>“Tutti-frutti”—A mixture of fruits.</p>
<p>“Velouté”—A smooth white sauce.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>“Vol-au-vent”—Light puff pastry baked in a
mold and filled with chicken, sweetbreads or other
delicate viand.</p>
<p>“Zwieback”—Bread baked twice.</p>
</div>
<hr class="chap" /></div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</SPAN></span></p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />