<h2><SPAN name="VII" id="VII"></SPAN>VII</h2>
<h3>DWARF APPLES</h3>
<p>Dwarf apples are the most interesting and valuable
of dwarf fruits. We have become so thoroughly accustomed
to the standard apple tree in this country,
however, and it so fully meets all the apparent requirements,
that there seems to be no call for dwarf
apples. Nevertheless dwarf trees have some real advantages
under certain circumstances. Some of these
have already been pointed out in the general discussion
in previous chapters, and some of them will bear
reiteration here. Where so much interest is taken
in apple culture as in America, the advantage which
dwarf trees offer for the rapid testing of new varieties
cannot be overlooked. Still more important is the
value of the dwarf trees in producing extra fancy
specimens. Thus in growing very fine apples for exhibition
or for a particularly fastidious market, one
would naturally choose the dwarf trees.</p>
<p>Inasmuch as dwarf trees are recommended chiefly
to the amateur and are grown generally less for cash
profit than for other considerations, the great and obvious
advantages of standard trees quickly disappear.
For men who like to play at fruit growing, nothing
can equal a selection of apple trees on Paradise stocks.
They are the most engaging of all dwarf trees, in fact
of all fruit trees whatsoever.</p>
<p>The general matter of selecting stocks has been
referred to under the head of propagation, but the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</SPAN></span>
statement should be repeated here that the French
Paradise stock is preferable for very dwarf garden
trees, and is almost necessary for cordons and espaliers,
while the Doucin (sometimes called the English or
broad-leaved Paradise) may be chosen where only
a moderate amount of dwarfing is desired. Some of
the most expert apple growers of North America are
beginning to think that the Doucin may be required
for the commercial orchards in the future, when spraying
for the San José scale becomes an established
routine and smaller trees are an accepted necessity.</p>
<p>Dwarf apple trees may be cultivated in nearly all
the artificial forms ever given to fruit trees. Undoubtedly
the simplest is the bush or vase form. This
requires less care and attention and probably gives
as much fruit to the same area as any other. The
pyramid form is somewhat difficult to produce. It
can be secured successfully only with the varieties
which have a tendency to grow strong, straight
branches, as for instance Sutton, Gravenstein and
Northern Spy. On the whole the pyramid is not to
be recommended for dwarf apples.</p>
<p>Apples succeed very well as upright cordons and
in all the simpler modifications of this form. As these
trees can be planted very close together—as close as
fifteen inches certainly—thus occupying very little
room, a large number of them can be planted in very
limited areas of the city lot or backyard. They are
especially adapted to stand on the property line where
they seem to use no space whatever, and where in
fact they do occupy space which otherwise would be
lost. The upright cordon can be bent into the form of<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</SPAN></span>
an arch in order to make delightful arbors along the
walks. The illustration, Fig. 2, shows a good example
of this sort.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i0077" name="i0077"></SPAN><div class="figborder"> <ANTIMG src="images/i0077.jpg" alt="" /> <p class="caption">FIG. 25—DWARF APPLES ON PROF. L. H. BAILEY'S FARM, NEW YORK</p> </div>
</div>
<p>Nearly all varieties of apples—indeed all as far
as I know—succeed in this form. The trees are not
very long-lived, however. That is they cannot be
maintained in good presentable form and prolific bearing
indefinitely, because it is difficult to reproduce
the fruit spurs on the lower part of the stem. Nevertheless
the trees are inexpensive and can be cheaply
replaced. As they come into bearing the first or
second year after planting, this task of replacing worn-out
trees is a small one. Very fine specimens of fruit<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</SPAN></span>
can be produced on these upright cordons. Indeed this
form is superior to the bush form in this respect.</p>
<p>The apple is the best of all trees for horizontal cordons.
In this form it becomes the most entertaining
plaything in the garden, as well as one of the most
rewarding trees in its product of fruit. Either the
single arm or the double arm cordon can be used with
success. These horizontal cordons are naturally used
along the borders of walks, flower beds or plots devoted
to vegetables. They may sometimes be used
along foundations of buildings, where it is not desired
to grow upright cordons or espaliers against the walls.
The fruit produced by horizontal cordons is probably
superior in size, color and finish to that produced on
any other form of tree. In climates where the summer's
heat and sunshine are apt to be meager, this
advantage of the horizontal cordon will be comparatively
greater. Conversely it will be less in places
where sunshine and heat are very abundant during
the summer. It is probably true that on the plains of
Arizona and Texas the horizontal cordon will not be
a brilliant success.</p>
<p>Dwarf apples need practically the same care and
cultivation, aside from pruning, as standard apples.
The soil should be cultivated during the early part
of the summer and allowed to rest during the latter
part of the year. Cover crops may be sown during
June or July, according to the custom practised in the
usual orchard management; but the advantages of
a cover crop in a small garden are less material than
in a large commercial orchard.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i0079" name="i0079"></SPAN><div class="figborder"> <ANTIMG src="images/i0079.jpg" alt="" /> <p class="caption">FIG. 26—UPRIGHT CORDON APPLES</p> <p class="ctext">18 inches apart; in author's garden</p> </div>
</div>
<p>The formation of the tree is discussed under another<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</SPAN></span>
head. It remains to be said only that careful and
intelligent pruning are required to keep any dwarf
apple tree to its work. The more complicated and
the more restricted the form of the tree, the more
careful and continuous must be this pruning. The
general system may be outlined in comparatively few
words, and may be explained in its simplest form as
applied to the treatment of a horizontal cordon. Each
horizontal cordon, perfectly formed and full grown,
should have fruit spurs throughout its horizontal
length, which may be from three to fifteen feet. The
upright portion of the trunk, from the point where
the graft is set to the angle made by the bending down
of the stem, should be kept clean and bare. Constant
care is required to remove the sprouts from this portion
of the tree, especially such as come up from the
stock. At the further end of the horizontal portion
there should be one, two, or three strong shoots
allowed to push forth each year. These may be
called leaders. They represent the principal wood
growth in each tree. They draw up the sap from the
roots, their leaves elaborate this sap, and from them
the digested material is sent back for the support of
the tree and the ripening of the fruit. They are allowed
to take an upright or nearly upright position
and their growth is encouraged. On all other portions
of the tree growth is sternly restricted, when
not altogether repressed.</p>
<p>There is a constant tendency for strong shoots to
start into growth all along the horizontal part of the
stem and especially near the bend. If any of these
shoots are allowed to make headway, the form of<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</SPAN></span>
the tree is spoiled. Even if they are cut out after a
year's growth, thus retaining somewhat the form of
the tree, the fruit spurs are thereby lost. It is the business
of the fruit grower, therefore, to pinch back these
shoots which start along the horizontal stem, and
this pinching is done at a comparatively early stage
of their growth. Usually the first pinching should be
given when the stems have grown long enough so
as to have seven or eight leaves. These shoots are then
cut or pinched back to three leaves. If the tree is in
good vigorous condition, these shoots will soon start
into growth once more. Again they have to be
pinched. This time the pinching comes a little earlier,
taking the shoot when it reaches only about five
leaves and the pinching is still more severe. The
shoots may start into growth a third time or even a
fourth time, but each time they are pinched back
sooner and more severely than before. In most cases
two or three pinchings will suffice. These constant
repressions of growth tend to secure the formation
of fruit spurs and fruit buds along the horizontal
trunk of the tree.</p>
<p>Some slight modifications of the plan here outlined
will develop themselves in experience. In particular
it will be found that different varieties require
slightly different handling. Some form fruit spurs
more readily than others. With certain varieties it
is very difficult to repress the rampant habit of growth
and to secure a proper formation of fruit buds. These
differences, however, are of minor importance as
compared with the general management of the tree.</p>
<p>The system just outlined has in view the summer<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</SPAN></span>
pruning of the horizontal cordon apple. The upright
cordon is pruned in almost exactly the same manner.
Various forms of espaliers are handled in much the
same way. Strong shoots or leaders are allowed to
grow at the ends of the main branches to keep up a
proper circulation and elaboration of sap, while the
growth of fruit spurs is encouraged along the sides
of the stems by frequent and regular pruning.</p>
<p>In a somewhat less precise manner the same system
of pruning can be applied to bush and pyramid forms.
Each bush, for instance, is made up of a certain
number of fruiting branches. The fruit is borne on
spurs on the sides of these branches, while the woody
growth is made by the leaders appearing at the ends
of these branches. These leaders are annually cut
back and the constant formation of fruit spurs is
encouraged by pinching whatever shoots are on the
sides of the main stems.</p>
<p>It will be seen that the whole business of pruning
falls into two general categories, viz., winter pruning
and summer pruning. The winter or spring pruning
is given any time after the stress of winter is over
and before the sap starts running in the spring. This
is the time when the ordinary fruit trees are customarily
pruned. The work at this season consists chiefly
in cutting back leaders. These are pruned off short,
that is the whole stem is taken off down to within
two or three buds of where it started growth the
previous year. In some cases it is worth while to
cut even further back, going into wood two or three
years old. At this spring pruning the defective or
diseased branches are of course removed wherever<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</SPAN></span>
they are found. Cases requiring such treatment always
occur even on the best trained cordons and
espaliers. Whenever it becomes necessary an entire
branch, sometimes composing half the tree, is taken
out. Usually such branches can be replaced without
great loss of time.</p>
<div class="figcenter"><SPAN name="i0083" name="i0083"></SPAN><div class="figborder"> <ANTIMG src="images/i0083.jpg" alt="" /> <p class="caption">FIG. 27—HORIZONTAL CORDON APPLE TREES</p> </div>
</div>
<p>After this winter or spring pruning comes the
summer pruning which has been outlined above. This
usually begins May 15-25, and continues until July
25-31, differing, of course, in different latitudes.</p>
<p>Practically all varieties of apples can be grown as<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</SPAN></span>
dwarfs, though some succeed on Paradise roots better
than others. Some varieties also are better adapted
for special forms, as for cordons, than are others.
Such requirements are not very strict, and a careful
gardener can grow practically anything he wants to.
Patrick Barry, in his "Fruit Garden," recommends
"twenty very large and beautiful sorts for dwarfs,"
having in mind American conditions, and especially
his own experience in Rochester, N. Y. His list is
as follows:</p>
<table summary="list">
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Red Astrachan</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Porter</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Large Sweet Bough</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Menagere</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Primate</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Red Bietigheimer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Beauty of Kent</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Bailey Sweet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Alexander</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Canada Reinette</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Duchess of Oldenburg</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Northern Spy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Fall Pippin</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Mother</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Williams' Favorite</td>
<td class="tdlpad">King of Tompkins County</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Gravenstein</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Twenty Ounce</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Hawthornden</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Wagener</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdlpad">Maiden's Blush</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>In Europe, where greater attention has been paid
to these matters, the opinion has settled down to a
comparatively limited number. For example, Mr.
George Bunyard in "The Fruit Garden" recommends
the following varieties for cordons:</p>
<table summary="list">
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Mr. Gladstone</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Mother</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Devonshire Quarrenden</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Calville Rouge Precoce</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">James Grieve </td>
<td class="tdr">Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Cox's Orange Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Feb.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Wealthy</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">St. Edmund's Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Margil </td>
<td class="tdr">Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Ross Nonpareil</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">King of Pippins</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Fearn's Pippin.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</SPAN></span></td>
<td class="tdr">Very late</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Duchess of Oldenburg </td>
<td class="tdr">Aug.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Lord Derby </td>
<td class="tdr">Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Pott's Seedling </td>
<td class="tdr">Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Bismarck</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Lord Grosvenor</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Lane's Prince Albert</td>
<td class="tdr">Jan., March</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Adams' Pearmain</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Lord Suffield</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Hubbard's Pearmain</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Grenadier </td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Allington Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Golden Spire</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Scarlet Nonpareil </td>
<td class="tdr">Jan., Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Seaton House </td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Norman's Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Jan.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Sandringham </td>
<td class="tdr">Feb.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Lord Burghley </td>
<td class="tdr">Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Alfriston </td>
<td class="tdr">Feb., March</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Duke of Devonshire </td>
<td class="tdr">Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Calville Malingre </td>
<td class="tdr">Feb. to Mch.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Rosemary Russet</td>
<td class="tdr">Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Calville Rouge</td>
<td class="tdr">Feb. to Mch.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Sturmer Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Very late</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Allen's Everlasting </td>
<td class="tdr">Very late</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>The same authority recommends the following
varieties to be grown on Paradise stocks as bushes:</p>
<table summary="list">
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Beauty of Bath </td>
<td class="tdr">July, Aug.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Golden Spire</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Red Quarrenden</td>
<td class="tdr">July, Aug.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Cox's Orange Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., Feb.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Lady Sudeley</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Beauty of Barnack</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Worcester Pearmain</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Allington Pippin</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec., Feb.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Yellow Angestrie</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Gascoigne's Scarlet</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Duchess' Favorite</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept. to Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Christmas Pearmain</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">King of the Pippins</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Winter Quarrenden</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Early White Transparent</td>
<td class="tdr">J'ly.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Baumann's Reinette</td>
<td class="tdr">Jan.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Lord Suffield </td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Lord Derby</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Pott's Seedling</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Stone's Apple </td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Lord Grosvenor</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Tower of Glamis</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Early Julien</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Warner's King</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Ecklinville Seedling</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Bismarck</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Grenadier</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Lane's Prince Albert</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec., Mch.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Stirling Castle</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Bramley's Seedling</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec., Mch.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td class="tdlpad">Newton Wonder</td>
<td class="tdr">Dec., Mch.</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>Max Loebener in his book on dwarf fruits recommends<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</SPAN></span>
the following varieties for dwarf apples:</p>
<table summary="list">
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Red Astrachan </td>
<td class="tdr">July, Aug.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Belle de Boskoop</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., May</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Yellow Transparent</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Virginia Rose </td>
<td class="tdr">Aug.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Charlamowsky</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Red Peach Summer Apple</td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Sept.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Transparent de Croncels </td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Oct.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Lord Suffield </td>
<td class="tdr">Aug., Oct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Prince Apple</td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Jan.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Cellini </td>
<td class="tdr">Sept., Nov.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Danzig</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Dec.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Alexander </td>
<td class="tdr">Oct., Dec.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Dean's Codlin</td>
<td class="tdr">Oct. to Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Gravenstein<br/>
<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>For moist soils, bears late</i></span> </td>
<td class="tdr">Oct. to Jan.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Landbury Reinette</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., Feb.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Yellow Richard </td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., Dec.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Cox's Orange<br/>
<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>Requires good soil</i></span></td>
<td class="tdr">Nov. to Mch.</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Bismarck </td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., Feb.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Winter Gold Pearmain</td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., March</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Yellow Bellflower<br/>
<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>Requires good position</i></span></td>
<td class="tdr">Nov. to April</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Ribston Pippin<br/>
<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>Good warm soil</i></span></td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., April</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Baumann's Reinette </td>
<td class="tdr">Dec., May</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Canada Reinette<br/>
<span style="margin-left: .5em;"><i>Hardy</i></span></td>
<td class="tdr">Nov., April</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>Inasmuch as the advantages of the dwarf trees
apply especially to the growing of fine fruit, only the
better varieties should generally be propagated in this
way. On this basis, therefore, rather than on the
basis of adaptation learned from experience, the following
varieties may be suggested among the well
known American sorts for growing in dwarf form:</p>
<table summary="list">
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Baldwin</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Yellow Transparent</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Esopus</td>
<td class="tdlpad">McIntosh</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Mother</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Red Astrachan</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Williams' Favorite</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Alexander</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Sutton </td>
<td class="tdlpad">Wolf River</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">King</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Ribston Pippin</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Northern Spy</td>
<td class="tdlpad">Wealthy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Grimes </td>
<td class="tdlpad">Wagener</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tdl">Winesap </td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>Of course, one propagating dwarf apples would<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</SPAN></span>
always select his own favorites. It should be noticed
that in the list given above are some varieties which
are notable for beauty of appearance rather than
for superior quality. They are recommended on the
former consideration. Certain varieties in the list,
for instance Alexander, are known to succeed especially
well as dwarfs.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</SPAN></span></p>
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