<h3> CHAPTER VII </h3>
<h4>
THE ARMADA GALLEON OF TOBERMORY BAY
</h4>
<p>Between the western Highlands of Scotland and the remote, cloudy
Hebrides lies the large island of Mull on a sound of that name. Its
bold headlands are crowned with the ruins of gray castles that were
once the strongholds of the clans of the MacLeans and the MacDonalds.
Along these shores and waters one generation after another of kilted
fighting men, savage as red Indians, raided and burned and slew in
feuds whose memories are crowded with tragedy and romance. Near where
Mull is washed by the Atlantic and the Sound opens toward the
thoroughfares of the deep-sea shipping is the pleasant town of
Tobermory, which in the Gaelic means Mary's Well. The bay that it
faces is singularly beautiful, almost landlocked, and of a depth
sufficient to shelter a fleet.</p>
<p>Into this Bay of Tobermory there sailed one day a great galleon of
Spain, belonging to that mighty Armada which had been shattered and
driven in frantic flight by English seamen with hearts of oak under
Drake, Hawkins, Howard, Seymour, and Martin Frobisher, names to make
the blood beat faster even now. The year was 1588, in the reign of
Elizabeth, long, long, ago. This fugitive galleon, aforetime so tall
and stately and ornate, was racked and leaking, her painted sails in
tatters, her Spanish sailors sick, weary, starved, after escaping from
the English Channel and faring far northward around the stormy Orkneys.
Many of her sister ships had crashed ashore on the Irish coast while
the surviving remnant of this magnificent flotilla wallowed forlornly
home. Seeking provisions, repairs, respite from the terrors of the
implacable ocean the galleon <i>Florencia</i> dropped anchor in Tobermory
Bay, and there she laid her bones.</p>
<p>With her, it is said, was lost a great store of treasure in gold and
plate, and ever since 1641, for more than two and a half centuries, the
search for these riches has been carried on at intervals. More than
likely, if you should go in one of Donald MacBrayne's steamers through
the Sound of Mull next summer, and a delightful excursion it is, you
would find an up-to-date suction dredge and a corps of divers, employed
by the latest syndicate to finance the treasure hunt, ransacking the
mud of Tobermory Bay in the hope of finding the Spanish gold of the
<i>Florencia</i>. Many thousands have been vainly spent in the quest, but
the lure of lost treasure has a fascination of its own, and after all
the failure of Scotch and English seekers, American enterprise and
capital have now taken hold of this romantic task.</p>
<p>With the history of the <i>Florencia</i> galleon and her treasure is
intimately interwoven the stirring chronicle of the deeds of the
MacLeans of Mull and the MacDonalds of Islay and Skye. Out of the
echoing past, the fanfare of Spanish trumpets is mingled with the skirl
of the pipes, and the rapier of Toledo flashes beside the claymore of
the Highlanders. The story really begins long before the doomed
galleon sought refuge in Tobermory Bay. There were island chieftains
of the Clan MacLean, busy at cutting the throats of their enemies, as
far remote in time as the thirteenth century, but their turbulent
pedigrees need not concern our narrative until the warlike figure of
Lachlan Mo'r MacLean, "Big Lachlan," steps into its pages in the year
of 1576.</p>
<p>It was then that he came of age and set out from the Court of James VI
at Edinburgh, where he had been brought up, to claim his inherited
estates of Mull. His wicked step-father, Hector, met him in the castle
of Duart whose stout walls and battlements still loom not far from
Tobermory and tried to set him aside with false and foolish words. The
astute youth perceived that if he were to come into his own, he must be
up and doing, wherefore he speedily mustered friends and led them into
Castle Duart by night. They carried this scheming step-father to the
island of Coll and there beheaded him, which made Lachlan's title clear
to the lands of his ancestors.</p>
<p>The next to mistake the mettle of young Lachlan Mo'r was no less than
Colin Campbell, sixth Earl of Argyll, head of a family very powerful in
the Highlands even to this day. He was for seizing the estate by force
after plotting to no purpose, and Angus MacDonald of Dunyweg was
persuaded to help him with several hundred fighting men. Thus began
the feud between the MacLeans and MacDonalds which a few years later
was to involve that great galleon <i>Florencia</i> of the Armada. Argyll
and his force wasted the lands of Lachlan with fire and sword, and
besieged one of his strongholds with twelve hundred followers.</p>
<p>War thus begun was waged without mercy, and one bloody episode followed
on the heels of another. At the head of his clansmen, Lachlan swept
into Argyle's country and made him cry quits. This was a large
achievement, and the spirited young Lord of Duart was hailed as a
Highland chief worthy of the king's favor. He went to court, was
flattered by the great men there, and became the hero of as pretty and
gallant a romance as heart could wish. The king arranged that he
should marry the daughter of the powerful Earl of Athol, and Lachlan
could not say his sovereign nay. The contract arranged, he started for
Mull to make ready for the wedding, but chanced to visit on the way
William Cunningham, Earl of Glencairn, at his castle overlooking the
Clyde.</p>
<p>Cards were played to while away the evening, and Lachlan's partner was
one of the daughters of the host. It so happened that the game was
changed and the players again cut for partners. At this another
daughter, the fair Margaret Cunningham, whispered to her sister that if
the handsome Highland chief had been <i>her</i> partner, "she would not have
hazarded the loss of him by cutting anew." Lachlan overheard the
compliment, as perhaps he was meant to do, and so far as he was
concerned hearts were trumps from that moment. He wooed and won
Margaret Cunningham and married her forthwith. The king was greatly
offended but what cared this happy man! He carried his bride to Duart
and laughed at his foes.</p>
<p>The quiet life at home was not for him, however. Soon he was playing
the game of the sword with the MacDonalds of Islay until a truce was
patched by means of a marriage between the clans. There was peace for
a time, but the trouble blazed anew over the matter of some lifted
cattle, and they were at it again hammer-and-tongs. The royal policy
seems to have been to permit these Highland gamecocks to fight each
other so long as they were fairly well matched. In this case the
various MacDonalds combined in such numbers against Lachlan MacLean
that the king interfered and persuaded them to seek terms of
reconciliation. Accordingly the Lord of the MacDonalds journeyed to
Duart Castle with his retinue of bare-legged gentlemen and was
hospitably received. Lachlan was canny as well as braw, and he
clinched the terms of peace by first locking the visitors in a room
whose walls were some twenty feet thick, and then holding as hostages
the two young sons of Angus MacDonald.</p>
<p>The high-tempered MacDonald was naturally more exasperated than
pacified, and he turned the tables when Lachlan soon after went to
Islay to receive performance of the promises made touching certain
lands in dispute. The Highland code of honor was peculiar in that
treachery appears to have been a weapon used without scruple. The
MacDonalds swore that not a MacLean should suffer harm, but no sooner
had Lachlan and his clansmen and servants arrived than they were
attacked at night by a large force. The party would have been put to
the sword, but that Lachlan rushed into the midst of the foe holding
aloft one of MacDonald's sons as a shield.</p>
<p>This caused postponement of the slaughter, MacDonald offering quarter
if his child should be delivered to him. The MacLeans were disarmed
and bound, except two young men who had distinguished themselves by
laying many a MacDonald low in the heather. These were beheaded at
once, and beginning next morning two MacLeans were led out and executed
each day in the presence of their own chief until no more than Lachlan
and his uncle were left. They were spared only because the sanguinary
Angus MacDonald fell from his horse and was badly hurt before he could
finish his program.</p>
<hr>
<SPAN name="img-188"></SPAN>
<center>
<ANTIMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-188.jpg" ALT="Duart Castle, chief stronghold of the MacLeans." BORDER="2" WIDTH="492" HEIGHT="802">
<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 492px">
Duart Castle, chief stronghold of the MacLeans.
<br/><br/>
Ardnamurchan Castle, seat of the MacIans and the MacDonalds.
</h4>
</center>
<hr>
<p>It would be tiresome to relate much more of this ensanguined,
interminable game of give and take which was the chief business of the
Highland clans in that century. The clan of the MacIans whose seat was
at Ardnamurchan Castle on Mull later sided actively with the MacDonalds
and the feud became three-cornered. Lachlan Mo'r MacLean was no petty
warrior, and his men were numbered by the thousand when he was in the
prime of his power. Once he fell upon the island of Islay and put to
the sword as many as five hundred of his foes, "all the men capable of
bearing arms belonging to the Clan-donald," says an old account. Angus
himself was chased into his castle and forced to give over half of
Islay to Lachlan to save his skin.</p>
<p>Now, indeed, was there a mustering of the MacDonalds from near and far
to invade Mull. They gathered under the chiefs of Kintyre, Skye and
Islay, with the lesser clans under MacNeil of Gigha, the MacAllisters
of Loupe, and the MacPhees of Colonsay. Bold Lachlan Mo'r MacLean was
outnumbered, but a singular stroke of luck enabled him to win a
decisive battle. That MacDonald who was called the Red Knight of
Sleat, was much disturbed and shaken by a dream in which a voice
chanted a very doleful prophecy of which this is a sample:</p>
<p class="poem">
"Dire are the deeds the fates have doomed on thee!<br/>
Defeated by the sons of Gillean the invading host shall be.<br/>
On thee, Gearna-Dubh,[<SPAN name="chap07fn1text"></SPAN><SPAN href="#chap07fn1">1</SPAN>] streams of blood shall flow;<br/>
And the bold Red Knight shall die ere a sword is sheathed."<br/></p>
<br/>
<p>This message caused the Red Knight to sound the retreat soon after the
fray began, and his example spread panic among the force which broke
and ran for their boats, and the best MacDonald was he who first
reached the beach. The claymores of the MacLeans hewed them down
without mercy and their heads were chopped off and thrown into a well
which has since borne a Gaelic name descriptive of the event. It would
seem that these clans must have exterminated each other by this time,
but the bleak moors and rocky slopes of these western islands bore a
wonderful crop of fighting men, and soon the MacLeans were invading the
coast of Lorn and spreading havoc among the MacDonalds with great
slaughter.</p>
<p>Lachlan found time also to seek vengeance on the MacIans for daring to
meddle in his affairs. John MacIan, chief of that smaller clan which
owed fealty to the MacDonalds, had been a suitor for the hand of
Lachlan Mo'r MacLean's mother, who was a sister of the Earl of Carlyle,
and had a fortune in her own right. Now the MacIan renewed his
attentions, and Lachlan looked on grimly, aware that the motive was
greed of gold and lands. His mother gave her consent but her
two-fisted son made no objection until the MacIan came to Mull to claim
his bride. The marriage was performed in the presence of Lachlan and
his most distinguished retainers, and there was a feast and much
roaring conviviality. In the evening, the company being hot with wine,
a rash MacIan brought up the matter of the recent feud and a pretty
quarrel was brewed in a twinkling.</p>
<p>Several of the MacIans boasted that their chief had wed "the old lady"
for the sake of her wealth. "Drunkards ever tell the truth," flung
back a MacLean with which he plunged a dirk into the heart of the
tactless guest. Instantly the swords were flashing, and hardly a
MacIan came alive out of the banqueting hall. Lachlan missed this
mêlée, for some reason or other, but coming on the scene a little later
he quoted in the Gaelic a proverb which means, "If the fox rushes upon
the hounds he must expect to be torn." His followers took it that he
felt no sorrow at the fate of the MacIans, and forthwith they rushed
into the chamber of the bridegroom, dragged him forth, and would have
dispatched him, but the lamentations of Lachlan's mother for once moved
her rugged son to pity, and he contented himself with throwing the
chief of the MacIans into the dungeon of Duart Castle.</p>
<p>This happened in the summer of 1588, and affairs were in this wise when
the galleon <i>Florencia</i> came sailing into Tobermory Bay. Her captain,
Don Pareira, was a fiery sea-fighter whom misfortune had not tamed.
These savage Highlanders were barbarians in his eyes, and he would
waste no courtesy on them. There were several hundred Spanish soldiers
in the galleon, of the great army of troops which had been sent in the
Armada to invade England, and Captain Pareira thought himself in a
position to demand what he wanted. He sent a boat ashore with a
message to Lachlan Mo'r MacLean at his castle at Duart, asking that
provisions be furnished him, and adding that in case of refusal or
delay he should take them by force. To this Lachlan sent back the
haughty reply that "the wants of the distressed strangers should be
attended to after the captain of the Spanish ship had been taught a
lesson in courteous behavior. In order that the lesson might be taught
him as speedily as possible, he was invited to land and supply his
wants by the forcible means of which he boasted. It was not the custom
of the Chief of the MacLeans to pay attention to the demands of a
threatening and insolent beggar."</p>
<p>At this it may be presumed that Captain Pareira swore a few rounds of
crackling oaths in his beard as he strode his high-pooped quarter-deck.
His men who had gone ashore reported that the MacLean was an ill man to
trifle with and that he had best be let alone. Already the clan was
gathering to repel a landing force from the galleon. The captain of
the battered <i>Florencia</i> took wiser counsel with himself and perceived
that he had threatened over hastily. Pocketing his pride, he assured
the ruffled Lachlan of Castle Duart that he would pay with gold for
whatever supplies might be granted him.</p>
<p>Lachlan had other fish to fry, for the MacDonalds, exceedingly wroth at
the scurvy treatment dealt that luckless bridegroom and ally, the chief
of the MacIans, were up in arms and making ready to avenge the black
insult. In need of men to defend himself, Lachlan MacLean struck a
bargain with the captain of the galleon. If Pareira should lend him a
hundred soldiers from the <i>Florencia</i> he would consider this service as
part payment for the supplies and assistance desired.</p>
<p>Away marched the contingent from the galleon in company with the
MacLean clansmen, and laid siege to the MacIan castle of Mingarry after
ravaging the small islands of Rum and Eigg. Lachlan Mo'r was carrying
all before him, burning, killing, plundering both MacDonalds and
MacIans, when Captain Pareira sent him word that the <i>Florencia</i> was
ready to sail, and he should like to have his soldiers returned. To
this MacLean replied that the account between them had not been wholly
squared. There was the matter of payment promised in addition to the
loan of the soldiers. The people of Tobermory and thereabouts had sent
grain and cattle aboard the galleon, and they must have their money
before sailing day.</p>
<p>Captain Pareira promised that every satisfaction should be given before
he left the country, and again requested that his hundred <i>soldadoes</i>
be marched back to their ship.</p>
<p>This Lachlan was willing to do, but still suspecting the commander of
the galleon as a wily bird, he detained three of the officers of the
troops as hostages to assure final settlement. Then he sent on board
the <i>Florencia</i> young Donald Glas, son of the MacLean of Morvern, to
collect what was due and adjust the affair. No sooner had he set foot
on deck, than he was disarmed and bundled below by order of Pareira who
considered that two could play at holding that form of collateral known
as hostages.</p>
<p>Now ensued a dead-lock. Lachlan MacLean refused to yield up his brace
of Spanish officers unless the demands of his people were paid in full,
while Captain Pareira kept Donald Glas locked in a cabin and swore to
carry him to sea. The tragedy which followed is told in the traditions
of Mull to this day. When Donald Glas learned that he was kidnapped in
the galleon, he resolved to wreak dreadful revenge for the treachery
dealt his kinsmen. On the morning when the <i>Florencia</i> weighed anchor,
an attendant who had been confined with him was sent on shore and
Donald sent word of his fell intention to the chief of the clan.</p>
<p>Overnight Donald Glas had discovered that only a bulkhead separated his
cabin from the powder magazine of the galleon, and by some means, which
tradition omits to explain, he cut a hole through the planking and laid
a train ready for the match. Just before the <i>Florencia</i> weighed
anchor he was fetched on deck for a moment to take his last sight of
the heathery hills of Mull and Morvern. Then the captive was thrust
back into his cabin, and with her great, gay banners trailing from
aloft, the galleon made sail and began slowly to move away from the
shore of Tobermory Bay.</p>
<p>It was then that Donald Glas, true MacLean was he, fired his train of
powder, and bang! the magazine exploded. The galleon was torn asunder
with terrific violence, and the bodies of her soldiers and mariners
were flung far over the bay and even upon the shore. So complete was
the destruction that only three of the several hundred Spaniards
escaped alive. The <i>Florencia</i> had vanished in a manner truly epic,
and proud were the MacLeans of the deed of young Donald Glas who gave
his life for the honor of his clan.</p>
<p>One of the surviving traditions is that a dog belonging to Captain
Pareira was hurled ashore alive. The faithful creature, when it had
recovered from its hurts, refused to leave that part of the strand
nearest the wreck, and continued to howl most piteously by day and
night as long as it existed, which was more than a year. The Spanish
officers, who had remained as hostages in the hands of Lachlan Mo'r
MacLean were set at liberty by that sometimes courteous chief, and were
permitted to proceed to Edinburgh where they lodged complaint with the
king touching the destruction of their galleon. The matter of Captain
Pareira having been disposed of in this explosive fashion, Lachlan
MacLean returned to his main business of harrying the MacDonalds, and
so fiercely and destructively was the feud conducted thereafter, that
King James thought it time to interfere, lest he should have no
subjects left in the Western Highlands. The warring chiefs were
summoned to Edinburgh and imprisoned and fined, after which they made
their peace with the king and returned to their island realms. The
affair of the <i>Florencia</i> was named in the charges brought against
MacLean. In the official records of Holyrood Palace, seat of the
Scottish kings, is this information, laid before the Privy Council on
January 3rd, 1591:</p>
<p>That in the preceding October, Lachlan MacLean "accompanied with a
great number of thieves, broken men and ... of clans, besides the
number of one hundred Spaniards, came to the properties of His Majesty,
Canna, Rum, Eigg and the Isle of Elenole, and after they had wracked
and spoiled the said islands, they treasonably raised fire, and in
maist barbarous, shameful and cruel manner, burnt the same island, with
the men, women and children there, not sparing the youths and infants;
and at the same time past came to the Castle of Ardnamurchan, besieged
the same, and lay about the said castle three days, using in the
meantime all kinds of hostilities and force, both by fire and sword....
The like barbarous and shameful cruelty has seldom been heard of among
Christians in any kingdom or age."</p>
<p>On the 20th of March, 1588, King James "granted a remission to Lachlan
MacLean of Duart for the cruel murder of certain inhabitants of the
islands of Rum, Canna, and Eigg," but from the remission was excepted
the "plotting or felonious burning and flaming up, by sulphurous
powder, of a Spanish ship and of the men and provisions in her, near
the island of Mull."</p>
<p>Swift and tragic as was the fate of Captain Pareira and his ship's
company, it was perhaps more merciful than that which befell the great
squadron of galleons of the Armada that were cast on the coast of
Ireland, on the rocks of Clare and Kerry, in Galway Bay, and along the
shores of Sligo and Donegal. More than thirty ships perished in this
way, and of the eight thousand half-drowned wretches who struggled
ashore no more than a handful escaped slaughter at the hands of the
wild Irish who knocked them on the head with battle-axes or stripped
them naked and left them to die of the cold. Many were Spanish
gentlemen, richly clad, with gold chains and rings, and the common
sailors and soldiers had each a bag of ducats lashed to his wrist when
he landed through the surf. They were slain for their treasure, and on
one sand strip of Sligo an English officer counted eleven hundred
bodies.</p>
<p>In a letter to Queen Elizabeth, Sir E. Bingham, Governor of Ulster,
wrote of the wreckage of twelve Armada ships which he knew of, "the men
of which ships did all perish in the sea save the number of eleven
hundred or upwards which we put to the sword; amongst whom there were
divers gentlemen of quality and service, as captains, masters of ships,
lieutenants, ensign bearers, other inferior officers and young
gentlemen to the number of some fifty.... which being spared from the
sword till orders must be had from the Lord Deputy how to proceed
against them, I had special directions sent me to see them executed as
the rest were, only reserving alive one Don Luis de Cordova, and a
young gentleman, his nephew, till your Highness's pleasure be known."</p>
<p>Alas, Elizabeth could not find it in her heart to spare even these two
luckless gentlemen of Spain, and one judges those rude Highlanders less
harshly for their bloodthirsty feuds at learning that the great Queen
herself "ordered their immediate execution when she received the
letter, and it was duly carried out."</p>
<p>Froude, in his essay "The Defeat of the Armada," comes to the defense
of Elizabeth, or at least he pleads extenuating circumstances.</p>
<hr>
<SPAN name="img-196"></SPAN>
<center>
<ANTIMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-196.jpg" ALT="Defeat of the Spanish Armada. From the painting by P. de Loutherbourg." BORDER="2" WIDTH="669" HEIGHT="522">
<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 669px">
Defeat of the Spanish Armada. From the painting by P. de Loutherbourg.
</h4>
</center>
<hr>
<p>"Most pitiful of all was the fate of those who fell into the hands of
the English garrisons of Galway and Mayo. Galleons had found their way
into Galway Bay,—one of them had reached Galway itself,—the crews
half dead with famine and offering a cask of wine for a cask of water.
The Galway townsmen were humane, and tried to feed and care for them.
Most were too far gone to be revived, and died of exhaustion. Some
might have recovered, but recovered they would be a danger to the
State. The English in the West of Ireland were but a handful in the
midst of a sullen, half-conquered population. The ashes of the Desmond
rebellion were still smoking, and Dr. Sanders and his Legatine
Commission were fresh in immediate memory. The defeat of the Armada in
the Channel could only have been vaguely heard of.</p>
<p>"All that the English officers could have accurately known must have
been that an enormous expedition had been sent to England by Philip to
restore the Pope; and Spaniards, they found, were landing in thousands
in the midst of them with arms and money; distressed for the moment,
but sure, if allowed time to get their strength again, to set Connaught
in a blaze. They had no fortresses to hold so many prisoners, no means
of feeding them, no more to spare to escort them to Dublin. They were
responsible to the Queen's Government for the safety to the country.
The Spaniards had not come on any errand of mercy to her or hers. The
stern order went out to kill them all wherever they might be found, and
two thousand or more were shot, hanged, or put to the sword. Dreadful!
Yes, but war itself is dreadful, and has its own necessities."</p>
<p>A quaint recital of the fate of these fleeing galleons is to be found
in a history published by order of Oliver Cromwell, with the title of
"Old England Forever, or Spanish Cruelty Displayed." One chapter runs
as follows:</p>
<p>"<i>Here followeth a particular Account of the Miserable Condition of the
Spanish Fleet, fled to the North of Scotland, and scattered, for many
Weeks, on the Sea-Coasts of Ireland. Written October 19, 1588</i>.</p>
<p>"About the Beginning of August, the Fleet was, by Tempest, driven
beyond the Isles of Orkney, the Place being above 60 Leagues North
Latitude (as already mentioned) a very unaccustomed climate for the
Young Gallants of Spain, who did never before feel Storms on the Sea
nor cold weather in August. And about those Northern Islands their
Mariners and Soldiers died daily by Multitudes, as by their Bodies cast
on land did appear. And after twenty Days or more, having passed their
Time in great Miseries, they being desirous to return Home to Spain,
sailed very far Southward into the Ocean to recover Spain.</p>
<p>"But the Almighty, who always avenges the Cause of his afflicted People
who put their Confidence in Him, and brings down his Enemies who exalt
themselves to the Heavens, order'd the Winds to be violently
contrarious to this proud Navy, that it was with Force dissevered on
the High Seas to the West of Ireland; and so a great number of them
were driven into divers dangerous Bays, and upon Rocks, all along the
West and North Parts of Ireland, in sundry Places distant above an
hundred Miles asunder, and there cast away, some sunk, some broken,
some run on sands, and some were burned by the Spaniards themselves.</p>
<p>"As in the North Part of Ireland, towards Scotland, between the two
Rivers of Lough-foile and Lough-sivelly, nine were driven on Shore, and
many of them broke, and the Spaniards forced to come to Land for Succor
among the Wild Irish.</p>
<p>"In another Place, twenty miles South West from thence, in a Bay called
Borreys, twenty Miles Northward from Galloway, belonging to the Earl of
Ormond, one special great Ship of 1000 Tons, with 50 Brass Pieces, and
four Cannons was sunk, and all the People drowned, saving 16, who by
their Apparel, as it is advertized out of Ireland, seemed to be Persons
of Great Distinction.</p>
<p>"Then to come more to the Southward, thirty Miles upon the coast of
Thomond, North from the River of Shannon, two or three more perished,
whereof one was burned by the Spaniards themselves, and so driven to
the Shore. Another was of San Sebastian, wherein were 300 men, who
were also all drowned, saving 60; a third Ship, with all her Lading was
cast away at a Place called Breckan.</p>
<p>"In another Place, opposite Sir Tirlogh O'Brien's House, there was
another great Ship lost, supposed to be a Galleass. The Losses above
mentioned were betwixt the 5th, and 10th of September; as was
advertized from sundry Places out of Ireland. So as by accompt. from
the 21st of July, when this Navy was first beaten by the Navy of
England, until the 10th of September, being the space of Seven Weeks,
and more, it is very probable that the said Navy had never had one good
Day or Night."</p>
<br/>
<p>That much treasure of gold and jewels and plate went down in these lost
galleons was the opinion of Scotch and Irish tradition, but these
stories gained the greatest credence in the case of the <i>Florencia</i> of
Tobermory Bay. She was said to have contained the paymaster's chests
of the Armada, and to have carried to the bottom thirty million ducats
of money, and the church plate of fabulous richness. It is certain
that the <i>Florencia</i> was one of the largest galleons of the Armada and
that she never returned to Spain. Her armament comprised fifty-two
guns, and her company numbered 400 soldiers and eighty-six sailors. It
is probable that this was the <i>Florencia</i> belonging to the Duke of
Tuscany, which was refitting at Santander in September, 1587,
concerning which Lord Ashley wrote to Walsingham, after the destruction
of the Armada, that she was commanded by a grandee of the first rank
who was always "served on silver."</p>
<p>While even now the most painstaking investigation is unable to find
definite information regarding the amount of treasure lost in the
galleon of Tobermory Bay, that she contained a vast amount of riches
was believed as early as a half century after her destruction. The
papers of the great house of Argyll record the beginning of the search
almost as far away as 1640. Of these fascinating documents, the first
is the grant to the Marquis of Argyll and his heirs by the Duke of
Lennox and Richmond, Lord High Admiral, with consent of King Charles
the First, of all rights and ownership in the wreck of the <i>Florencia</i>
and her treasure. The deed of gift is dated from the Court of St.
Theobold's, February 5th, 1641 and "proceeds upon the narrative that in
the year 1588, when the great Spanish Armada was sent from Spain
towards England and Scotland, and was dispersed by the mercie of God,
there were divers ships and other vessels of the Armada, with
ornaments, munition, goods, and gear, which were thought to be of great
worth, cast away, and sunk to the sea ground on the coast of Mull, near
Tobermory, in the Scots seas, where they lay, and still lie as lost;
and that the Marquis of Argyll, near whose bounds the ships were lost,
having taken notice thereof, and made inquiries therefor, and having
heard some doukers[<SPAN name="chap07fn2text"></SPAN><SPAN href="#chap07fn2">2</SPAN>] and other experts in such matters state that they
consider it possible to recover some of the ships and their valuables,
was moved to take and to cause pains to be taken thereupon at his own
charges and hazard.</p>
<p>"For this reason, the Great Admiral, with the King's consent, gives,
grants, and disposes to the Marquis the said ships, ornaments,
munition, etc. of the Spanish Armada, and the entire profit that might
follow, or that he had already obtained therefrom, with full power to
the Marquis, his doukers, seamen, and others to search for the ships,
and intromit with them, providing the Marquis were accountable and made
prompt payment to the Duke of Lennox and Richmond of a hundredth part
of the ships, etc. with deduction of the expenses incurred for their
recovery, <i>pro rata</i>."</p>
<p>In these words the Crown assigned the treasure of the <i>Florencia</i> to
the house of Argyll as part of its admiralty rights along that coast
where marched the family estates. In 1665, the ninth Earl of Argyll,
son of him who had obtained ownership of the galleon, employed an
expert diver and wrecker by the name of James Mauld to search for the
treasure of ducats and plate. It was an attractive speculation for
that notable "douker" who was promised four-fifths of all the "gold,
silver, metal, goods, etc." recovered and incidentally the Earl bound
himself "that the same James Mauld shall not be molested in his work,
and that his workmen shall have peaceable living in these parts during
their stay, and traveling through the Highlands and Isles, and shall be
free from all robberies, thefts, etc. so far as the said Earl can
prevent the same. The said contract provides further lodging houses
for the workmen at the usual rates, and is fixed to endure for three
years after March 1, 1666."</p>
<p>These divers easily found the hull of the galleon, and they made a
chart showing its exact bearings by landmarks on two sides of the bay.
This ancient chart of the "Spanish wrack" as it is labeled, is owned by
the present Duke of Argyll, and has been used by the modern treasure
seekers who are unable even with its aid to find the remains of the
<i>Florencia</i>, so deeply have her timbers sunk in the tide-swept silt of
the bay. The interest of the ninth Earl of Argyll in exploring the
galleon was diverted by Monmouth's Rebellion in which luckless
adventure he became an active leader. He was made prisoner and
suffered the loss of his head which abruptly snuffled out his romantic
activities as a seeker after lost treasure.</p>
<p>He left among his papers a memorandum concerning the galleon, under
date of 1677, which states that "the Spanish wrackship was reputed to
have been the <i>Admiral of Florence</i>, one of the Armada of 1588, a ship
of fifty-six guns, with 30,000,000 of money on board. It was burned
and so blown up that two men standing upon the cabin were cast safe on
shore. It lay in a very good road, landlocked betwixt a little island
and a bay in the Isle of Mull, a place where vessels ordinarily
anchored free of any violent tide, with hardly any stream, a clean,
hard channel, with a little sand on the top, and little or no mud in
most places about, upon ten fathoms at high water and about eight at
ground ebb.</p>
<p>"The fore part of the ship above water was quite burned, so that from
the mizzen mast to the foreship, no deck was left. The hull was full
of sand and the Earl caused it to be searched a little without finding
anything but a great deal of cannon ball about the main mast, and some
kettles, and tankers of copper, and such like in other places. Over
the hindship, where the cabin was, there was a heap of great timber
which it would be difficult to remove, but under this is the <i>main
expectation</i>.</p>
<p>"The deck under the cabin was thought to be entire. The cannon lay
generally at some yards distance from the ship, from two to twenty.
The Earl's father had the gift of the ship, and attempted the recovery
of it, but from want of skilled workmen he did not succeed. In 1666,
the Laird of Melgum (James Mauld), who had learned the art of the
(diving) bell in Sweden and had made a considerable fortune by it,
entered into a contract with the Earl for three years by which Melgum
was to be at all the charge, and to give the Earl the fifth part of
what was brought up. He wrought only three months, and most of the
time was spent in mending his bells and sending for material he needed,
so that he raised only two brass cannon of a large calibre, but very
badly fortified, and a great iron gun.</p>
<p>"After this, being invited to England, he wrought no more, thinking his
trade a secret, and that the Spanish ship would wait for him. On the
expiring of the contract, the Earl undertook the work alone and without
the aid of any one who had ever seen diving, recovered six cannon, one
of which weighed near six hundred weight. The Earl afterwards entered
into a contract with a German who undertook great things, and talked of
bringing a vessel of forty guns, but instead brought only a yacht and
recovered only one anchor, going away soon after, taking his gold with
him and leaving some debt behind.</p>
<p>"The contract with the German has expired, and the Earl is provided
with a vessel, bells, ropes, and tongs, and with men to work by
direction, yet, although he is confident in his own understanding of
the art of diving with the bell, he is willing to enter into a
contract. He will dispone (grant) the vessel for three years, provided
the contractor should keep four skilled men to work in seasonable
weather from May 1 to October 1. The Earl will furnish a ship of 60 or
70 tons with twelve seamen, and give his partner a fifth part of the
proceeds. If a Crown were found it was to be exempted from the
division and presented to his Majesty....</p>
<p>"It is concluded that if the money expected be fallen upon, the fifth
part will quickly pay all expenses, and reward the ingenious artist,
and if that fail, the cannon will certainly repay the charges."</p>
<p>There are also preserved articles of agreement, dated December 18th,
1676, by which the Earl makes over a three-year concession to John
Saint Clare, minister at Ormistoun in Scotland, "for himself and as
taking burden for his father," to search the wreck on shares, the Earl
reserving "one-third part of what should be recovered during the first
year, and one-half of what should be recovered during the last two
years." It is also provided that "if the Saint Clares were disturbed
during the first year, so as not to be able to work or raise the wreck
without damage to their persons (by reason of the unsettled state of
the country), the contract should be regarded as not taking effect for
a year. The Earl binds himself to produce before November 1, 1676, his
right to the ship, under the Great Seal of Scotland, at Edinburgh, and
to deliver a copy of it to the Saint Clares. John Saint Clare,
younger, binds himself to repair with all skill for its recovery, and
for the recovery of the valuables, during the space of three years, and
to make true account and payment of the shares above reserved to the
Earl and his heirs, etc. Lastly, both parties oblige themselves
faithfully to observe all the articles of agreement under the
liquidated penalty of 2,000 marks, Scots."</p>
<p>The Saint Clares, or Sinclairs, as the name is spelled in other
documents of the same tenor, assigned their rights and contract to one
Hans Albricht von Treibelen, who was probably that German referred to
by the Earl as taking his gold with him and leaving his debts behind.
This document contains a fascinating mention of "all that might be
found in the water and about the ship, as gold, silver, bullion,
jewels, etc." and sets forth a new scheme of division of the spoils.
Now there appears Captain Adolpho E. Smith as a partner of Hans
Albricht von Treibelen, and one finds another parchment executed by the
Earl who appears to have thought that these "doukers" would bear
watching, for they are enjoined "immediately on the recovery of the
wreck to deliver on the spot to the Earl's factors or servants who are
daily to attend the work and to be witnesses of what is recovered....
Should the work be impeded by the violence of the country people, it is
provided that the term of the contract might be lengthened."</p>
<p>The repeated references to molestation by the inhabitants round about
were aimed at the Clan MacLean. The great Lachlan M'or had long since
closed his stormy career, and, wrapped in his plaid, his bones were
smouldering in a grave by Duart Castle. His kinsmen had good memories,
however, and there was that debt for provisions which had been left
owing by Captain Pareira of the <i>Florencia</i> some eighty years before.
It might seem that young Donald Glas had squared the account when he
blew the galleon and her crew to kingdom come, but the MacLeans were
men to nurse the embers of a feud and set the sparks to flying at the
next opportunity. They held it that theirs was the first right to the
wreck, and cared not a rap for any documentary rights that might have
been granted to the Campbells (the clan of the Earls of Argyll), by the
Great Admiral of Scotland.</p>
<p>Hector MacLean, brother of Lachlan MacLean of Castle Torloisk, near
Tobermory, rallied a force and drove the divers from the wreck. Then,
in order that there might be no doubt about the views of the MacLeans,
they built a small fort overlooking the bay and the scene of the wreck,
the ruins of which still survive. There a detachment was posted with
orders to make it hot for any interlopers who might try to find the
sunken treasure without first consulting the MacLeans.</p>
<p>This interference found its way into the Courts at Edinburgh in the
form of a petition of grievances suffered by Captain Adolpho E. Smith.
He swore before a notary that John MacLean, of Kinlochalan, and John
MacLean, a servitor to Lachlan MacLean of Torloisk, "had convocated six
or seven score of armed men, and he had exhibited to them a royal
warrant bearing his Majesty's protection and free liberty to Captain
Smith and his servants to work at the wreck-ship at Tobermory, and
prohibiting any of his Majesty's subjects from interrupting them.
Captain Smith then required the MacLeans to dissipate the armed men,
part of whom were in a fort or trench at Tobermory, newly built by them
for interrupting the work, and the rest in the place or houses
adjacent,—as John MacLean of Kinlochalan acknowledged,—and in his
Majesty's name required them to give him and his men liberty to
prosecute their work at the wreck.</p>
<p>"Upon this Kinlochalan answered that the men in arms were not commanded
by him but by Hector MacLean, brother of Lachlan MacLean of Torloisk,
and others; and he declared that not only would Captain Smith and his
men be hindered, but that the men in arms would shoot guns, muskets and
pistols at them, should any of them offer to duck or work at the wreck.
Whereupon Captain Smith took this instrument, protesting against the
aforesaid MacLeans and their accomplices, at Tobermory in Mull, 7
September, 1678." The militant and tenacious MacLeans struck terror to
the heart of Captain Adolpho Smith, according to another official
document called a "notorial instrument at the instance of William
Campbell, skipper to the Earl of Argyll's frigate, called <i>Anna of
Argyll</i>. This worthy sea dog, it appears, as procurator for the Earl,"
had compeared, desired, and required Captain Adolpho E. Smith and his
men to duck and work at the wreckship and to conform to the minutes of
contract betwixt the Earl and him, otherwise to give the bells, sinks,
and other instruments necessary for ducking to William Campbell, and
the men on board the Earl's frigate, who would duck them without any
regard to the threatenings of the MacLeans.</p>
<p>"Notwithstanding this, Captain Smith and his men refused to duck and
work, or to give over the bells, etc., necessary for the work to
William Campbell who thereupon, as procurator for the Earl of Argyll
asked and took instruments and protested against Captain Smith for
cost, skaith, and damage conform to the contract. The instrument was
taken by Donald McKellar, notary public, at and aboard the yacht
belonging to Captain Adolpho E. Smith, lying in the Bay of Tobermory in
Mull, 7 September, 1678."</p>
<p>The wreck of the galleon was fought over about this time, not only by
the mettlesome MacLeans but also by the Duke of York as Lord High
Admiral of Scotland and the Isles, succeeding in that office the Duke
of Lennox. He challenged the rights of the house of Argyll to the
<i>Florencia</i> and her treasure and instituted legal proceedings in due
form which were decided in favor of the defendant, thereby confirming
for all time the possession of the wreck, which belongs to the present
Duke of Argyll. The verdict read in part as follows:</p>
<p>"The rights, reasons, and allegations of the parties, and the gifts and
ratifications therein referred to, produced by Archibald, Earl of
Argyll, being at length heard and seen, the Lords of Council and
Session assoilized the said Archibald Earl of Argyll from the hail
points and articles of the summons libelled or precept intended and
pursued against him at the instance of said William Aikman,
Procurator-Fiscal of the Admiralty, before said Lord High Admiral and
his deputies, and decreed and declared him quit and free thereof in all
time coming. Dated 27th, July, 1677."</p>
<p>There comes into the story, during the lifetime of the ninth Earl, the
figure of Sir William Sacheverall, Governor of the Isle of Man, who was
interested as a partner in one of the several concessions granted. He
had left an account of his voyage to Mull in the year 1672, printed
shortly after the event, in which he not only records sundry efforts to
fish up the treasure but gives also a lively and vivid picture of the
primitive Highlander on his native heather.</p>
<p>"About twelve o'clock," he wrote, "we made the Sound of Mull. We
saluted the Castle of Duart with five guns, and they returned three. I
sent in my pinnace for the boats, and things you had left there; and in
the evening we cast anchor in the Bay of Tauber Murry, which for its
bigness, is one of the finest and fastest in the world. The mouth of
it is almost shut up with a little woody island call'd the Calve, the
opening to the South not passable for small boats at low-water, and
that to the North barely Musquet-shot over. To the Landward, it is
surrounded with high Mountains cover'd with woods, pleasantly
intermixed with rocks, and three or four Cascades of water which throw
themselves from the top of the Mountain with a pleasure that is
astonishing, all of which together make one of the oddest and most
charming Prospects I ever saw.</p>
<p>"Italy itself, with all the assistance of Art, can hardly afford
anything more beautiful and diverting; especially when the weather was
clear and serene, to see the Divers sinking three-score foot under
water and stay sometimes above an hour, and at last returning with the
spoils of the Ocean; whether it were Plate, or Money, it convinced us
of the Riches and Splendor of the once thought <i>Invincible Armada</i>.
This rais'd a variety of Ideas, in a Soul as fond of Novelty as mine.
Sometimes I reflected with horror on the danger of the British Nation,
sometimes with Pleasure on that generous Courage and Conduct that sav'd
a sinking State; and sometimes of so great an Enterprize baffled and
lost, by accidents unthought of and unforseen....</p>
<p>"The first week the weather was pleasant, but spent in fitting our
Engines, which proved very well, and every way suited to the design;
and our Divers outdid all examples of this nature. But with the
Dog-Days the autumnal rains usually begin in these parts, and for six
weeks we had scarce a good day. The whole frame of Nature seem'd
inhospitable, bleak, stormy, rainy, windy, so that our Divers could not
bear the cold, and despairing to see any amendment of weather I
resolved on a journey across the Isle of Mull, to the so much
celebrated II-Columb-Kill,[<SPAN name="chap07fn3text"></SPAN><SPAN href="#chap07fn3">3</SPAN>] in English St. Columb's Church....</p>
<p>"The first four miles we saw but few houses, but cross'd a wild desert
country, with a pleasant mixture of Woods and Mountains. Every man and
thing I met seem'd a Novelty. I thought myself entering upon a new
Scene of Nature, but Nature rough and unpolished, in her undress. I
observed the men to be large bodied, stout, subtile, active, patient of
cold and hunger. There appeared in all their actions a certain
generous air of freedom, and contempt of those trifles, Luxury and
Ambition, which we so servilely creep after. They bound their
appetites by their necessities and their happiness consists not in
having much, but in coveting little.</p>
<p>"The Women seem to have the same sentiments as the men; tho' their
Habits were mean, and they had not our sort of breeding, yet in many of
them there was a natural Beauty, and a graceful Modesty which never
fails of attracting. The usual outward habit of both sexes is the
Plaid; the women's much finer, the colours more lively, and the squares
larger than the men's, and put me in mind of the ancient Picts. This
serves them for a Veil and covers both head and body. The men wear
theirs after another manner; when designed for ornament it is loose and
flowing, like the mantles our painters give their Heroes.</p>
<p>"Their thighs are bare, with brawny Muscles; a thin brogue on the foot,
a short buskin of various colours on the leg, tied above the calf with
a strip'd pair of garters. On each side of a large Shot-pouch hangs a
Pistol and a Dagger; a round Target on their backs, a blue Bonnet on
their heads, in one hand a broadsword, and a musquet in the other.
Perhaps no nation goes better arm'd, and I assure you they will handle
them with bravery and dexterity, especially the Sword and Target, as
our veteran Regiments found to their cost at Killie Crankie."</p>
<p>Although Sir William Sacheverall, he of the facile pen and the romantic
temper, brought no Spanish treasure to light, he helped us to see those
fighting MacLeans and MacDonalds as they were in their glory, and his
description was written almost two and a half centuries ago.</p>
<p>The "Spanish wrack" was handed down from one chief of the Campbell clan
to another, as part of the estate, until in 1740, John, the second Duke
of Argyll, decided to try his luck, and employed a diving bell, by
which means a magnificent bronze cannon was recovered. It has since
been kept at Inverary Castle, the seat of the Dukes of Argyll, as an
heirloom greatly esteemed. This elaborately wrought piece of ordnance,
almost eleven feet in length, bears the arms of Francis I of France
(for whom it was cast at Fontainebleau) and the fleur-de-lis. It was
probably captured from Francis at the battle of Pavia during his
invasion of Italy, and the Spanish records state that several of such
cannon were put on a vessel contributed to the Armada by the state of
Tuscany. At the same time a large number of gold and silver coins were
found by the divers, and the treasure seeking was thereby freshly
encouraged. Modern experts in wrecking and salvage have agreed that
the crude apparatus of those earlier centuries was inadequate to combat
the difficulties of exploring a wreck of the type of the <i>Florencia</i>
galleon, built as she was of great timbers of the iron-like African oak
which to-day is found to be staunch and unrotted after a submersion of
more than three hundred years.</p>
<p>The diving bells of those times were dangerous and clumsy, and easily
capsized. The men worked from inside them by thrusting out hooks and
tong-like appliances, and dared venture no deeper than eight fathoms,
or less than fifty feet. In other words, the treasure might be in the
galleon, but it was impossible to find and bring it up. For another
century and more, the <i>Florencia</i> was left undisturbed until about
forty years ago, the present Duke of Argyll, then Marquis of Lorne,
considered it his family duty to investigate the bottom of Tobermory
Bay, his curiosity being pricked at finding the ancient chart, and
other documents already quoted, among the archives stored in Inverary
Castle. More for sport than for profit, he sent down a diver who found
a few coins, pieces of oak, and a brass stanchion, after which the
owner bothered his head no more about these phantom riches for some
time.</p>
<p>In 1903, or three hundred and fifteen years after the <i>Florencia</i> found
her grave in Tobermory Bay, a number of gentlemen of Glasgow, rashly
speculative for Scots, formed a company and subscribed a good many
thousand dollars to equip and maintain a treasure-seeking expedition by
modern methods. The Duke of Argyll, like his ancestors before him, was
ready to grant permission to search the wreck of the galleon for a term
of years, conditioned upon a fair division of the spoils. He let them
have the chart, without which no treasure hunt deserves the name, and
all the family papers dealing with the <i>Florencia</i>. In charge of the
operations was placed Captain William Burns of Glasgow, a hard-headed
and vastly experienced wrecker who had handled many important salvage
enterprises for the marine underwriters in seas near and far.</p>
<p>The contrast between this twentieth century syndicate with its steam
dredges and electric lights, and that primitive age when the MacLeans
were harassing Captain Adolpho Smith from their fort beside the bay, is
fairly astonishing. The gentlemen of Glasgow were not moved by
sentiment, however, and soon Captain Burns was spending their money in
a preliminary survey of the waters and the sands where the galleon was
supposed to be. Although the ancient chart was explicit in its
bearings, and these were made when men were living who had seen a part
of the wreck above tide, locating the <i>Florencia</i> proved to be a
baffling puzzle. During the first season, 1903, divers and lighters
were employed in this work of searching, but the salvage consisted of
no more than another bronze cannon loaded with a stone ball, several
swords, scabbards, and blunderbusses, a gold ring, and some fifty
doubloons bearing the names of Ferdinand and Isabella, and Don Carlos.</p>
<p>Two years later, in 1905, the work was fairly begun with a costly
equipment. The bottom of the bay was photographed and a mound of sand
revealed, which, it was concluded, covered the surviving part of the
galleon. Digging into this bank, the divers found many curious
trophies, among them more arms and munition, bottles or canteens,
boarding pikes, copper powder pans, and other small furniture, much
corroded and encrusted. It was surmised that the vessel lay with her
stern cocked up, and that in this end, indicated by the swelling of the
sand bank, the treasure was hidden.</p>
<p>Powerful suction pumps worked by steam were set going to clear away
this bank, and they bored into it steadily for three weeks while the
divers dug shafts to clear away obstructions. At length, a massive
silver candlestick was fetched up, and the sand pumps clanked more
industriously than ever. At the end of the summer, about one hundred
square feet of the bank had been removed, but the whereabouts of the
galleon was by no means certain.</p>
<p>As soon as the weather became favorable in the following spring,
Captain Burns and his crew returned to the quest with more men and
machinery than before. It was really impossible that such a business
as this could be carried on without some touch of the fantastic and the
picturesque. There now intrudes a Mr. Cossar, employed as "the famous
expert, who, by means of delicate apparatus can indicate where metal or
wood is buried in any quantity underground," and he spent the summer
taking observations and buoying the bay with floats or markers. At
these places boring was carried on means of steel rods to a depth of
one hundred and forty feet, while the dredges were busy exploring the
vicinity of the sand bank.</p>
<p>The area thoroughly explored was increased to eight acres in 1906, in
water from seven to fourteen fathoms deep. That famous expert, Mr.
Cossar, and his delicate apparatus were reinforced by Mr. John Stears
of Yorkshire, one of the most notable diviners of England. He operated
with no more apparatus than a hawthorn twig and professed to be able to
locate precious metals no matter how many fathoms deep, and more than
this, <i>mirabile dictu</i>, to tell you whether it was gold, or silver, or
copper that made his inspired twig twist and bend in his fingers. Mr.
Stears was taken as seriously as Mr. Cossar had been, and the findings
of one confirmed the verdicts of the other. The powerful salvage
steamer <i>Breamer</i> with a large crew searched where the diviner told
them to go, and several pieces of silver plate were recovered amid the
excitement of all hands.</p>
<p>The <i>Breamer</i> continued work in 1907, but during the next year the
waters of Tobermory Bay were unvexed by the treasure-seekers. Then the
syndicate went into its pockets for more cash, got its second wind, so
to speak, and wrapped its operations in a cloud of secrecy, quite the
proper dodge for a venture of this kind. A new and taciturn crew was
hired for the <i>Breamer</i>, and whatever was found under water was hidden
from prying eyes. The additional funds raised amounted to $15,000, and
Captain Burns was told to obtain the best equipment possible. It was
reported in the autumn of that year that "Mr. Cossar, the mineral
expert, by whose skill the scope of the operations was more or less
controlled, had broken down in health owing to the severe strain, and
had gone home to recruit," but John Stears of Yorkshire with his
hawthorn twig was still finding treasure which refused to be found by
divers.</p>
<hr>
<SPAN name="img-215"></SPAN>
<center>
<ANTIMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-215.jpg" ALT="Diving to find the treasure galleon in Tobermory Bay. (Photographed in 1909.)" BORDER="2" WIDTH="492" HEIGHT="780">
<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 492px">
Diving to find the treasure galleon in Tobermory Bay. (Photographed in
1909.)
<br/><br/>
The salvage steamer <i>Breamer</i> equipped with suction dredge, removing a
sandbank from the supposed location of the Florencia galleon in 1909.
</h4>
</center>
<hr>
<p>The five-year concession from the Duke of Argyll had expired and was
renewed by a syndicate organized in London, the manager a Col. K. M.
Foss, an American, who appeared in Tobermory and conveyed an impression
of cock-sure Yankee hustle. He announced that his agents were making
historical researches in the libraries and museums of Europe and had
already convinced him that the lost galleon was crammed with treasure;
that the chart relied on in past searches was all wrong, and expressed
his surprise that the extensive salvage operations of recent years
should have failed to locate the exact position of the wreck. In a
word, Scotchmen might know a thing or two, but your up-to-date Yankee
was the man to crack the nut of the lost <i>Florencia</i> and deftly extract
the kernel. The appearance of this Colonel Foss in this storied
landscape of Tobermory Bay has a certain humorous aspect. He hardly
seems to belong in the <i>ensemble</i> of the search for the treasure
galleon which has been carried on for centuries.</p>
<p>This entertaining American may perhaps have unearthed information
hitherto unknown, but the fact is worth some stress that all previous
investigations had failed to prove beyond doubt that the <i>Florencia</i>
bore from Spain the thirty millions of money reputed to have been
stowed in her lazarette. An ancient document known as "The Confession
of Gregorie de Sotomeya of Melgaco in Portugal" contains a list of the
treasure ships of the Armada. He was with the fleet in the galleon
<i>Neustra Senora del Rosario</i>, commanded by Dom Pedro de Valdes, and he
goes on to say:</p>
<p>"To the sixth question concerning what treasure there was in the fleet,
I say there was great stories of money and plate which came in the
galleon wherein the Duke of Medina was (<i>The San Martin</i>), and in the
ship of Dom Pedro de Valdez which was taken, and in the Admiral of the
galleons (<i>The San Lorenzo</i>), and in the Galley Royal (<i>The Capitana
Royale</i>), and in the Vice Admiral wherein was Juan Martinez de Ricalde
(<i>The Santa Anna</i>), and in the Vice Admiral whereof was General Diego
(<i>The San Christobel</i>), and in the Vice Admiral of the pinnaces (<i>N. S.
de Pilar de Targoza</i>), and in the Vice-Admiral of the hulks (<i>The Gran
Grifon</i>), and in a Venitian ship in which came General Don Alonzo de
Leyna. The report goeth that this ship brought great stores of
treasure, for that there came in her the Prince of Ascoli, and many
other noblemen. This is all I know touching the treasure."</p>
<p>The name of the <i>Florencia</i> does not appear herein, yet the report of
her vast riches was current in the Western Highlands no more than one
lifetime after the year of the Armada. That men of solid business
station and considerable capital can be found to-day to charter
wrecking steamers, divers, dredges, and what not to continue this
enterprise proves that romance is not wholly dead.</p>
<p>In the town of Tobermory, the busy, mysterious parties of treasure
seekers, as they come year after year with their impressive flotilla of
apparatus, furnish endless diversion and conjecture. The people will
tell you, in the broad English of the Highlander, and in the Gaelic,
even more musical, as it survives among the Western Islands, the legend
of the beautiful Spanish princess who came in the <i>Florencia</i>, and was
wooed and won by a bold MacLean, and they will show you the old mill
whose timbers, still staunchly standing, were taken from the wreck of
the galleon. In Mull, and oftener among the islands further seaward
and toward the Irish coast, are to be found black-eyed and black-haired
men and women, not of the pure Celtic race, in whose blood is the
distant strain bequeathed by those ancestors who married shipwrecked
Spanish sailors of the Armada, and perhaps among them are descendants
of these two or three seamen who were hurled ashore alive when the
<i>Florencia</i> was destroyed by the hand of young Donald Glas MacLean.</p>
<p>In quaint Tobermory whose main street nestles along the edge of the
bay, the ancient foemen, MacLeans and MacDonalds, tend their shops side
by side, and it seems as if almost every other signboard bore one of
these clan names. If you would hear the best talk of the galleon and
her treasure, it is wise to seek the tiny grocery and ship chandlery of
Captain Coll MacDonald, a gentle white-bearded man, so slight of
stature and mild of mien and speech that you are surprised to learn
that for many years he was master of a great white-winged clipper ship
of the famous City Line of Glasgow, in the days when this distinction
meant something. Now he has come back to spend his latter days in this
tranquil harbor and to spin yarns of many seas.</p>
<hr>
<SPAN name="img-218"></SPAN>
<center>
<ANTIMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-218.jpg" ALT="Scabbards, flasks, cannon balls, and small objects recovered from the sunken Armada galleon." BORDER="2" WIDTH="492" HEIGHT="809">
<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 492px">
Scabbards, flasks, cannon balls, and small objects recovered from the sunken Armada galleon.
<br/><br/>
Stone cannon balls and breech-block of a breech loading gun fished up
from the wreck of the Florencia galleon.
</h4>
</center>
<hr>
<p>"The scour of the tide has settled the wreck of the galleon many feet
in the sand," he told me. "I can show you on a chart what the old
bearings were, as they were handed down from one generation to the
next, but Captain Burns is not sure that he has yet found her. The
money is there, I have no doubt. There was a bark in the bay not long
ago, and when she pulled up anchor a Spanish doubloon was sticking to
one fluke. Mr. Stears, the Yorkshireman with the divining rod, did
some wonderful things, but the treasure was not found. To test him,
bags of silver and gold and copper money were buoyed under water in the
bay, with no marks to show. It was done by night and he was kept away.
He went out in a boat next morning and was rowed around a bit, and
wherever the metal was hid under water, his twig told him, without a
mistake. More than that, he knew what kind of metal it was under the
water."</p>
<p>"And how was that!" I asked of Captain Coll MacDonald.</p>
<p>"He would hold a piece of gold money in each hand when the twig began
to twist and dip. If the gold was under the water, the twig would pull
with a very strong pull, so that he knew. If it was undecided like, he
would hold silver money, and the twig told him the proper message. I
watched him working many a time, and it was very wonderful."</p>
<p>"But he did not find the treasure," I ventured to observe.</p>
<p>"Ah, lad, it was no fault of his," returned the old gentleman. "The
Spanish gold is scattered far and wide over the bottom of the bay, I
have no doubt. Donald Glas MacLean did a very thorough job when he
blew the galleon to hell."</p>
<p>The present Duke of Argyll, brother-in-law of the late King Edward,
bears among the many and noble and resonant titles that are his by
inheritance, several which recall the earlier pages of the history of
the Clan Campbell, the brave days of the feudal Highlands, and the
ancient rights in the Armada Galleon of Tobermory Bay. He is Baron
Inverary, Mull, Morvern, and Tiry; twenty-ninth Baron of Lochow, with
the Celtic title of the Cailean Mo'r, chief of the Clan Campbell, from
Sir Colin Campbell, knighted in 1286; Admiral of the Western Coast and
Islands, Marquis of Lorne and Kintye; Keeper of the Great Seal of
Scotland and of the Castles of Dunstaffnage, Dunoon and Carvick,
Hereditary High Sheriff of the County of Argyll.</p>
<p>He once explained how the ownership of the <i>Florencia</i> galleon came to
his family by means of the ancient grant already quoted. The Campbells
held the admiralty rights of the coast of Mull at the time of the
Armada, and any wreck was lawfully theirs for this reason. The
document was simply a formal confirmation of these rights. The
<i>Florencia</i> was flotsam and jetsam to be taken by whatever chiefs held
the rights of admiralty. A case involving the salmon fishing rights of
a Scottish river was recently decided by virtue of a charter of
admiralty rights granted by Robert the Bruce, who ruled and fought six
hundred years ago.</p>
<p>In order to complete the documentary links of this true story of the
Armada galleon, it may be of interest to quote from a letter recently
received by the author from the present Duke of Argyll, in which he
says:</p>
<br/>
<p>The galleon was the ship furnished by Tuscany as her contribution to
the Armada. She was called the <i>Florencia</i>, or <i>City of Florence</i>, and
was commanded by Captain Pereira, a Portugese, and had a crew largely
Portugese on board. We have found specimens of his plate with the
Pereira arms engraved on the plate border. She carried breech loading
guns on her upper deck, and you will see one of them at the Blue Coat
School now removed from London to the suburbs.</p>
<p>On the lower deck were some guns got from Francis I at the Battle of
Pavia. I have a very fine one at Inverary Castle, got from the wreck
in 1740. Diving with a diving bell was commenced in 1670 and
discontinued on account of civil troubles. Pereira foolishly took part
in local clan disputes, helping the MacLeans of Mull against the
MacDonalds. One of the MacDonalds, when a prisoner on board, is said
to have blown up the vessel as she was warping out of harbor.</p>
<p>I found an old plan and located the "Spanish wrack" from the plan, but
only sent a man down once from a yacht.</p>
<p>There was little obtained during the last divings, cannon balls,
timber, a few pieces of plate, small articles—about 70 dollars, etc.</p>
<p>Yours faithfully,
ARGYLL.<br/></p>
<p>Kensington Palace,<br/>
April 25,—1910."<br/></p>
<br/><br/>
<p class="footnote">
<SPAN name="chap07fn1"></SPAN>
[<SPAN href="#chap07fn1text">1</SPAN>] A cliff which was the key to the position held by the MacLeans.</p>
<p class="footnote">
<SPAN name="chap07fn2"></SPAN>
[<SPAN href="#chap07fn2text">2</SPAN>] Divers.</p>
<p class="footnote">
<SPAN name="chap07fn3"></SPAN>
[<SPAN href="#chap07fn3text">3</SPAN>] Iona.</p>
<br/><br/><br/>
<SPAN name="chap08"></SPAN>
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