<p><SPAN name="chap14"></SPAN></p>
<h3> CHAPTER XIV. <br/><br/> THE SPANISH STEAMER. </h3>
<p>Whatever may have been the emotions with which
we regarded the formidable relative of our contrabandista,
we spared him the humiliation of listening
to the just appreciation we had of the character of
Fabrique; and enlivened by those songs and stories
with which the honest fellow endeavoured to raise
our spirits and efface the terrible recollection of that
hour upon the hills of Trohniona, we supped upon a
guisado and bottle of valdepenas.</p>
<p>Now I may inform the uninitiated that the aforesaid
guisado was a stew, such as can only be made in
a real Spanish pipkin. It consisted of two chickens,
a plump partridge, and a hare, well seasoned with oil,
garlic, pepper, and saffron all simmered together
When hot and steaming, the giblets, &c., are fished
up from the depths of the savoury pipkin, with just
such a wooden spoon as paunchy Sancho used, when
diving therewith into his beloved flesh-pots at the
wedding of Camacho.</p>
<p>Supper over, and a fresh bota ordered, Pedro
assumed his guitar, and while we cleaned and examined
our swords and pistols, and all the people of the
posada, the patron and patrona, the waiteresses, the
stabler, and the little half-naked muchaco who cleaned
the boots and turned the spit, crowded near, he, the
jovial contrabandista, turned his dark eyes and
well-bearded visage towards the dusky wooden ceiling,
and while his swarthy cheek glowed in the light of
the kitchen fire, struck up one of those lively seguidillas
which are the delight of the Spaniards, and skilfully
he brushed the strings with his finger-points in
a manner which I believe is peculiar to the Andalusians.</p>
<p>A very amorous love ditty succeeded, and when
the roguish eyes of Pedro wandered knowingly from
one person to another, the patrona blushed with
pleasure, and all the waiteresses simpered and spread out
their short but full-flounced skirts, or displayed their
handsome red stockings, to let their well-shaped legs
be seen, as well as their pretty zapatas; for the roving
and romantic contrabandista, whose habits are so
full of life and energy, is ever a welcome guest at the
wayside inns of Spain, and to none more than their
fairer inmates.</p>
<p>Now Pedro's gaudy brown jacket, all covered with
silver bell-buttons, bright silken lace, and spangles;
his ample breeches of gay velveteen; his brilliant
sash and broad hat placed a little over the right eye,
made him a welcome visitor to all the women, while
the stories, news, or fibs which his incessant
perambulations afforded him ample means of collecting,
made him equally acceptable to the men; thus, like
other bold contrabandistas, who by sea and land set
the laws of the Cortes at defiance, Pedro was always
sure of the brightest smiles, the oldest wine in the
cellar, the best fowl in the larder, the warmest corner
by the kitchen fire, and the most snug cama in the
posada, while pretty hands stroked his docile jennet,
and readier ones removed his corded packages, and
placed his guitar and loaded gun by his bedside for
the night.</p>
<p>Pedro's songs, and the stories he told during the
single night we spent with him, would fill a volume;
but the time passed rapidly away; we were up
betimes, mounted and armed to ride; and with
something of real satisfaction, Jack and I turned our
backs on those hated mountains, where a thicket of
green laurels, diminished to a black speck by the
distance, indicated the locality of the Rio de Muerte.</p>
<p>Trotting pleasantly, we passed Isla-mayor, which
lies about twelve miles from the mouth of the
Guadalquiver, and abounds in fruit-trees, which were
then in full blossom.</p>
<p>By this time, Paulina, her dark eyes, and her
witchery were alike forgotten, and her little note on
pink paper had been smoked away in cigaritos. The
keen interest taken in our affairs by the major had
completely cured me; so much for Spanish romance
contrasted with Spanish reality.</p>
<p>"And you have decided on taking the steamer at
San Lucar, señores?" said Pedro.</p>
<p>"Yes, and happy shall we be to find ourselves safe
on board of her," said I; "we have had too many
devilish scrapes among you Spaniards to wish for
more travelling in the saddle. It is no joke to escape
being hanged as a spy by a blundering alcalde one
day, and a terrible death the next by drowning, at
the hands of——"</p>
<p>"My brother Fabrique," said he, good-humouredly,
closing a sentence, the termination of which might
have proved unpleasant. "Well, señores, my little
felucca the 'Buena Fortuna'—you know her, with
her long brass gun and lateen sails—is lying
concealed in a solitary creek near Carbonera. I have
run her in there, because a fleet—yes, maldito—a
whole fleet of guarda costas are at anchor in the
harbour of San Lucar; but we must put to sea
to-morrow night, and if you will so far honour me,
Caballeros, as to accept a passage with me to
Gibraltar, the best valdepenas and the noblest Xeres
that ever came out of a madre-butt shall be at your
service. Ah, you shake your head, Señor Don
Ricardo, and think you have had enough of me and
my poor little craft——"</p>
<p>"Right, Pedro, and wish to have no more affairs with
a guarda costa," said Slingsby; "besides, if you were
attacked and taken at sea, after a fight, you would
fight, of course——"</p>
<p>"To the death, Señor, guerra al cuchillo, as the
old guerillas say."</p>
<p>"Well—what would be our fate?"</p>
<p>"True, señor. If not killed, you would be sent to
the galleys at Barcelona, and so might as well have
taken a dip in the Rio de Muerte. Well, I will cease
to urge you. Here is the gate of Bonanza, which
may be termed the port of Seville, though the city is
fifteen leagues distant; yonder is its castle, with the
Spanish flag flying, and here is the quay, where all
large vessels laden with goods discharge their cargoes,
as the shallowness of the Guadalquiver will not permit
them to ascend higher—you understand, señores?"</p>
<p>Here at this small town we bade farewell to Pedro,
who promised to visit us as soon as he came round to
Gibraltar; and pushing on, after a trot of a mile or
two over a dreary and sandy waste, we found
ourselves amid the sunny and bustling streets of San
Lucar de Barameda, where we sought at once its
harbour, the quays of which were, as usual, piled
chin deep with boxes of oranges, of raisins, and of
prunes, casks of salt, of wine, and of brandy; while
the flags of all nations—the stars and stripes of North
America, the eagles and tricolours of the South, the
union jack and the crosses of Scandinavia—were
waving among a forest of masts; in short, we found
ourselves amid all the noise and lively stir of a
Spanish seaport, where the splash of the screw
propeller furrowed the waters of the Guadalquiver, and
the steam, as it escaped at times, was like music to
us, who had just eluded the fangs of Fabrique's
mountain wolves.</p>
<p>We soon found the boat for Gibraltar, "Neustra
Señora de Assistencia," and embarked ourselves and
our horses, which were taken on board in stalls, that
were slung from a whip at the yard-arm; and in an
hour after, muffled in our cloaks, with choice cubas to
solace us, we lounged on the paddle gangway as the
vessel steamed out of the harbour between the two
castles of San Lucar—the same fortresses which
saluted the little fleet of Columbus, when departing
in search of a western world—and passed the
roadstead and the dangerous entrance, where the wild
waves are ever beating in tumult; and thus we left
the port enveloped in a golden haze and diminishing
astern, as the sun set behind the mountain peaks of
Seville.</p>
<p>The bay of Cadiz soon opened on our larboard
bow, and the city itself, with all its lights and spires,
and then the Isla de Leon arose before us, white and
glimmering in the moonlight.</p>
<p>The silver waves seemed to toy with the golden
sand, as their coy riplets chafed the beach; but in
other places the moonlit sea dashed its spray like
showers of diamonds and prisms against the abutting
rocks.</p>
<p>Overhead, the dark blue sky was clear and cloudless,
save where a long black pennon of wavy smoke
streamed far astern from the glowing funnel of "Our
Lady of Assistance," and all was still save the
ceaseless and monotonous dashing of the paddle-wheels,
and the measured clank of the engines, as we ploughed
along the lovely Spanish shore, and towards midnight
saw that point of land on which no Briton can gaze
without an emotion of pride, the Cape of Trafalgar.</p>
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