<h2><SPAN name="c2">THE SCIENTIFIC EXPLORER <br/><span class="smaller">BY J. W. POWELL</span></SPAN></h2>
<h3>The Ives and Wheeler Expeditions</h3>
<p>In the fall of 1857 Lieutenant Ives, of the engineer corps of the army,
ascended the Colorado River on a trip of exploration with a little steamer
called the Explorer; he went as far as the mouth of the Rio Virgin. Falling
back down river a few miles, Lieutenant Ives met a pack train which had
followed him up the bank of the stream. Here he disembarked, and on the
24th of March started with a land party to explore the eastern bank of the
river; making a long detour he ascended the plateau through which the Grand
Canyon is cut, and in an adventurous journey he obtained views of the canyon
along its lower course. On this trip J. S. Newberry was the geologist, and
to him we are indebted for the first geological explanation of the canyon and
the description of the high plateau through which it is formed. Doctor Newberry
was not only an able geologist, but he was also a graphic writer, and his
description of the canyon as far as it was seen by him is a classic in geology.</p>
<p>In 1869 Lieutenant Wheeler was sent out by the chief engineer of the army
to explore the Grand Canyon from below. In the spring he succeeded in reaching
the mouth of Diamond Creek, which had previously been seen by Doctor
Newberry in 1858. Mr. Gilbert was the geologist of this expedition, and his
studies of the canyon region during this and subsequent years have added
greatly to our knowledge of this land of wonders.</p>
<h3>Major Powell’s Several Trips</h3>
<p>In this same year I essayed to explore the Grand Canyon of the Colorado,
together with the upper canyons of that stream and the great canyons of the
lower portion of Green River. For this purpose I employed four rowboats
and made the descent from what is now Green River station through the
whole course of canyons to the mouth of the Rio Virgin, a distance of more
than a thousand miles.</p>
<div class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</div>
<div class="fig"><ANTIMG src="images/p006.jpg" alt="" width-obs="565" height-obs="800" /> <p class="caption">From Kaibab Plateau, Looking South.</p> </div>
<div class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</div>
<p>In the spring of 1870 I again started with three boats and descended
the river to the Crossing of the Fathers, where I met a pack train and went out
with a party of men to explore ways down into the Grand Canyon from the
north, and devoted the summer, fall, winter, and following spring to this undertaking.</p>
<p>In the summer of 1871 I returned to the rowboats and descended through
Marble Canyon to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, and then through the
greater part of the Grand Canyon itself. Subsequent years were then given to
exploration of the country adjacent to the Grand Canyon. On these trips Mr.
Gilbert, the geologist, who had been with Lieutenant Wheeler, and Capt. C. E.
Dutton, were my geological companions. On the second boat trip, and during
all the subsequent years of exploration in this region, Prof. A. H. Thompson
was my geographical companion, assisted by a number of topographical engineers.</p>
<p>In 1882 Mr. C. D. Walcott, as my assistant in the United States Geological
Survey, went with me into the depths of the Grand Canyon. We descended
from the summit of the Kaibab Plateau on the north by a trail which we built
down a side canyon in a direction toward the mouth of the Little Colorado
River. The descent was made in the fall, and a small party of men was
left with Mr. Walcott in this region of stupendous depths to make a study of the
geology of an important region of labyrinthian gorges. Here, with his party,
he was shut up for the winter, for it was known when we left him that snows
on the summit of the plateau would prevent his return to the upper region
before the sun should melt them the next spring. Mr. Walcott is now the
Director of the United States Geological Survey.</p>
<p>After this year I made no substantial additions to my geologic and scenic
knowledge of the Grand Canyon, though I afterward studied the archæology to
the south and east throughout a wide region of ruined pueblos and cliff
dwellings.</p>
<p>Since my first trip in boats many others have essayed to follow me,
and year by year such expeditions have met with disaster; some hardy adventurers
are buried on the banks of the Green, and the graves of others are
scattered at intervals along the course of the Colorado.</p>
<p>In 1889 the brave F. M. Brown lost his life. But finally a party of railroad
engineers, led by R. B. Stanton, started at the head of Marble Canyon and
made their way down the river as they extended a survey for a railroad along
its course.</p>
<p>Other adventurous travelers have visited portions of the Grand Canyon
region, and Mr. G. Wharton James has extended his travels widely over the
region in the interest of popular science and the new literature created in the
last decades of the nineteenth century. And now I once more return to a
reminiscent account of the Grand Canyon, for old men love to talk of the
past.</p>
<h3>The Plateau Region</h3>
<p>The Grand Canyon of Arizona and the Marble Canyon constitute one great
gorge carved by a mighty river through a high plateau. On the northeast and
north a line of cliffs face this plateau by a bold escarpment of rock. Climb
these cliffs and you must ascend from 800 to 1,000 feet, but on their summit you
will stand upon a plateau stretching away to the north. Now turn to face the
south and you will overlook the cliff and what appears to be a valley below.
From the foot of the cliff the country rises to the south to a great plateau through
which the Marble and the Grand canyons are carved. This plateau terminates
<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span>
abruptly on the west by the Grand Wash Cliffs, which is a high escarpment
caused by a “fault” (as the geologist calls it), that is, the strata of sandstone
and limestone are broken off, and to the west of the fracture they are dropped
down several thousand feet, so that standing upon the edge of the plateau
above the Grand Wash Cliffs you may look off to the west over a vast region of
desert from which low volcanic mountains rise that seem like purple mounds in
sand-clad lands.</p>
<p>On the east the great plateau breaks down in a very irregular way into the
valley of the Little Colorado, and where the railroad ascends the plateau from the
east it passes over picturesque canyons that run down into the Little Colorado.
On the south the plateau is merged into the great system of mountains that
stand in Southern Arizona. Where the plateau ends and the mountains begin is
not a well-defined line. The plateau through which the Grand Canyon is cut
is a region of great scenic interest. Its surface is from six to more than eight
thousand feet above the level of the sea. The Grand Plateau is composed of
many subsidiary plateaus, each one having its own peculiar and interesting
feature.</p>
<p>The Kaibab Plateau, to the northeast of the Grand Canyon, is covered with
a pine forest which is intercepted by a few meadows with here and there a
pond or lakelet. It is the home of deer and bear.</p>
<p>To the west is the Shinumo Plateau in which the Shinumo Canyon is
carved; and on the cliffs of this canyon and in the narrow valley along its
course the Shinumo ruins are found—the relics of a prehistoric race.</p>
<p>To the west of the Shinumo Plateau is the Kanab Plateau, with ruins scattered
over it, and on its northern border the beautiful Mormon town of Kanab
is found, and the canyon of Kanab Creek separates the Shinumo Plateau from
the Kanab Plateau. It begins as a shallow gorge and gradually increases in
depth until it reaches the Colorado River itself, at a depth of more than
4,000 feet below the surface. Vast amphitheaters are found in its walls and
titanic pinnacles rise from its depths. One Christmas day I waded up this creek.
It was one of the most delightful walks of my life, from a land of flowers to a
land of snow.</p>
<p>To the west of the Kanab Plateau are the Uinkaret Mountains—an
immense group of volcanic cones upon a plateau. Some of these cones stand
very near the brink of the Grand Canyon and from one of them a flood of
basalt was poured into the canyon itself. Not long ago geologically, but
rather long when reckoned in years of human history, this flood of lava rolled
down the canyon for more than <i>fifty miles</i>, filling it to the depth of <i>two</i> or <i>three
hundred feet</i> and diverting the course of the river against one or the other
of its banks. Many of the cones are of red cinder, while sometimes the lava is
piled up into huge mountains which are covered with forest. To the west
of the Uinkaret Mountains spreads the great Shiwits Plateau, crowned by
Mount Dellenbough.</p>
<p>Past the south end of these plateaus runs the Colorado River; southward
through Marble Canyon and in the Grand Canyon, then northwestward past the
Kaibab and Shinumo Canyon, then southwestward past the Kanab Plateau,
Uinkaret Mountains to the southernmost point of the Shiwits Plateau, and then
northwestward to the Grand Wash Cliffs. Its distance in this course is little
more than 300 miles—but the 300 miles of river are set on every side
with cliffs, buttes, towers, pinnacles, amphitheaters, caves, and terraces, exquisitely
storm-carved and painted in an endless variety of colors.</p>
<p>The plateau to the south of the Grand Canyon, which we need not describe
in parts, is largely covered with a gigantic forest. There are many volcanic
<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>
mountains and many treeless valleys. In the high forest there are beautiful
glades with little stretches of meadow which are spread in summer with a parterre
of flowers of many colors. This upper region is the garden of the world.
When I was first there bear, deer, antelope, and wild turkeys abounded, but now
they are becoming scarce. Widely scattered throughout the plateau are small
canyons, each one a few miles in length and a few hundred feet in depth.
Throughout their course cliff-dweller ruins are found. In the highland glades
and along the valley, pueblo ruins are widely scattered, but the strangest sights
of all the things due to prehistoric man are the cave dwellings that are dug in
the tops of cinder cones and the villages that were built in the caves of volcanic
cliffs. If now I have succeeded in creating a picture of the plateau I will
attempt a brief description of the canyon.</p>
<div class="fig"><ANTIMG src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" width-obs="677" height-obs="600" /> <p class="caption"><span class="small">Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody.</span> Bissell Point and Colorado River.</p>
</div>
<h3>Marble Canyon</h3>
<p>Above the Paria the great river runs down a canyon which it has cut
through one plateau. On its way it flows with comparative quiet through beautiful
scenery, with glens that are vast amphitheaters which often overhang great
<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>
springs and ponds of water deeply embosomed in the cliffs. From the southern
escarpment of this plateau the great Colorado Plateau rises by a comparatively
gentle acclivity, and Marble Canyon starts with walls but a few score feet
in height until they reach an altitude of about 5,000 feet. On the way the
channel is cut into beds of rock of lower geologic horizon, or greater geologic age.
These rocks are sandstones and limestones. Some beds are very hard, others
are soft and friable. The friable rocks wash out and the harder rocks remain
projecting from the walls, so that every wall presents a set of stony shelves.
These shelves rise along the wall toward the south as new shelves set in
from below.</p>
<p>In addition to this shelving structure the walls are terraced and the cliffs
of the canyon are set back one upon the other. Then these canyon walls are
interrupted by side streams which themselves have carved lateral canyons, some
small, others large, but all deep. In these side gorges the scenery is varied
and picturesque; deep clefts are seen here and there as you descend the river—clefts
furnished with little streams along which mosses and other plants
grow. At low water the floor of the great canyon is more or less exposed, and
where it flows over limestone rocks beautiful marbles are seen in many colors;
saffron, pink, and blue prevail. Sometimes a façade or wall appears rising vertically
from the water for thousands of feet. At last the canyon abruptly ends
in a confusion of hills beyond which rise towering cliffs, and the group of hills
are nestled in the bottom of a valley-like region which is surrounded by cliffs
more than a mile in altitude.</p>
<h3>The Grand Canyon</h3>
<p>From here on for many miles the whole character of the canyon changes.
First a dike appears; this is a wall of black basalt crossing the river; it is
of lava thrust up from below through a huge crevice broken in the rock by
earthquake agency. On the east the Little Colorado comes; here it is a river
of salt water, and it derives its salt a few miles up the stream. The main Colorado
flows along the eastern and southern wall. Climbing this for a few hundred
feet you may look off toward the northwest and gaze at the cliffs of the
Kaibab Plateau.</p>
<p>This is the point where we built a trail down a side canyon where Mr. Walcott
was to make his winter residence and study of the region; it is very complicated
and exhibits a vast series of unconformable rocks of high antiquity.
These lower rocks are of many colors; in large part they are shales. The
region, which appears to be composed of bright-colored hills washed naked by
the rain, is, in fact, beset with a multitude of winding canyons with their own
precipitous walls. It is a region of many canyons in the depths of the Grand
Canyon itself.</p>
<p>In this beautiful region Mr. Walcott, reading the book of geology, lived in
a summerland during all of a long winter while the cliffs above were covered
with snow which prevented his egress to the world. His companions, three
young Mormons, longing for a higher degree of civilization, gazed wistfully at
the snow-clad barriers by which they were inclosed. One was a draughtsman,
another a herder of his stock, and the third his cook. They afterward told me
that it was a long winter of homesickness, and that months dragged away
as years, but Mr. Walcott himself had the great book of geology to read, and to
him it was a winter of delight.</p>
<p>A half dozen miles below the basaltic wall the river enters a channel
carved in 800 or 1,000 feet of dark gneiss of very hard rock. Here the channel
is narrow and very swift and beset with rapids and falls. On the south and
<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span>
southwest the wall rises abruptly from the water to the summit of the plateau
for about 6,000 feet, but across the river on the north and west mountains
of gneiss and quartzites appear, sometimes rising to the height of a thousand
feet. These are mountains in the bottom of a canyon. The buttes and plateaus
of the inter-canyon region are composed of shales, sandstones, and limestones,
which give rise to vast architectural shelving and to pinnacles and
towers of gigantic proportions, the whole embossed with a marvelously minute
system of fretwork carved by the artistic clouds. Looking beyond these
mountains, buttes, and plateaus vistas of the walls of the great plateau are seen.
From these walls project salients, and deep re-entrant angles appear.</p>
<p>The whole scene is forever reminding you of mighty architectural pinnacles
and towers and balustrades and arches and columns with lattice work and
delicate carving. All of these architectural features are sublime by titanic painting
in varied hues—pink, red, brown, lavender, gray, blue, and black. In some
lights the saffron prevails, in other lights vermilion, and yet in other lights the
grays and blacks predominate. At times, and perhaps in rare seasons, clouds
and cloudlets form in the canyon below and wander among the side canyons and
float higher and higher until they are dissolved in the upper air, or perhaps they
accumulate to hide great portions of the landscape. Then through rifts in the
clouds vistas of Wonderland are seen. Such is that portion of the canyon around
the great south bend of the Colorado River past the point of the Kaibab Plateau.</p>
<h3>As Seen by the Geologist</h3>
<p>In the last chapter of my book entitled “The Canyons of the Colorado” I
have described the Grand Canyon in the following terms:</p>
<p>The Grand Canyon is a gorge 217 miles in length, through which flows a
great river with many storm-born tributaries. It has a winding way, as rivers
are wont to have. Its banks are vast structures of adamant, piled up in forms
rarely seen in the mountains.</p>
<p>Down by the river the walls are composed of black gneiss, slates, and schists,
all greatly implicated and traversed by dikes of granite. Let this formation be
called the black gneiss. It is usually about 800 feet in thickness.</p>
<p>Then over the black gneiss are found 800 feet of quartzites, usually in very
thin beds of many colors, but exceedingly hard, and ringing under the hammer
like phonolite. These beds are dipping and unconformable with the rocks
above. While they make but 800 feet of the wall or less they have a geologic
thickness of 12,000 feet. Set up a row of books aslant; it is ten inches from the
shelf to the top of the line of books, but there may be three feet of the books
measured directly through the leaves. So these quartzites are aslant, and
though of great geologic thickness they make but 800 feet of the wall. Your
books may have many-colored bindings and differ greatly in their contents; so
these quartzites vary greatly from place to place along the wall, and in many
places they entirely disappear. Let us call this formation the variegated
quartzite.</p>
<p>Above the quartzites there are 500 feet of sandstones. They are of a
greenish hue, but are mottled with spots of brown and black by iron stains.
They usually stand in a bold cliff, weathered in alcoves. Let this formation be
called the cliff sandstone.</p>
<p>Above the cliff sandstone there are 700 feet of bedded sandstones and limestones,
which are massive sometimes and sometimes broken into thin strata.
These rocks are often weathered in deep alcoves. Let this formation be called
the alcove sandstone.</p>
<p>Over the alcove sandstone there are 1,600 feet of limestone, in many places
<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span>
a beautiful marble, as in Marble Canyon. As it appears along the Grand
Canyon it is always stained a brilliant red, for immediately over it there are thin
seams of iron, and the storms have painted these limestones with pigments from
above. Altogether this is the red-wall group. It is chiefly limestone. Let it
be called the red-wall limestone.</p>
<p>Above the red wall there are 800 feet of gray and bright red sandstone,
alternating in beds that look like vast ribbons of landscape. Let it be called
the banded sandstone.</p>
<p>And over all, at the top of the wall, is the Aubrey limestone, 1,000 feet in
thickness. This Aubrey has much gypsum in it, great beds of alabaster that
are pure white in comparison with the great body of limestone below. In the
same limestone there are enormous beds of chert, agates, and carnelians. This
limestone is especially remarkable for its pinnacles and towers. Let it be
called the tower limestone.</p>
<p>These are the elements with which the walls are constructed, from black
buttress below to alabaster tower above. All of these elements weather in
different forms and are painted in different colors, so that the wall presents a
highly complex façade. A wall of homogeneous granite, like that in the
Yosemite, is but a naked wall, whether it be 1,000 or 5,000 feet high. Hundreds
and thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when they stand in a
meaningless front. A mountain covered by pure snow 10,000 feet high has
but little more effect on the imagination than a mountain of snow 1,000 feet
high—it is but more of the same thing—but a façade of seven systems of
rock has its sublimity multiplied sevenfold.</p>
<div class="fig"><ANTIMG src="images/p008.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="597" /> <p class="caption">A Panoramic View of the Canyon.</p> </div>
<div class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</div>
<p>Consider next the horizontal elements of the Grand Canyon. The river
meanders in great curves, which are themselves broken into curves of smaller
magnitude. The streams that head far back in the plateau on either side
come down in gorges and break the wall into sections. Each lateral canyon
has a secondary system of laterals, and the secondary canyons are broken by
tertiary canyons; so the crags are forever branching, like the limbs of an oak.
That which has been described as a wall is such only in its grand effect. In
detail it is a series of structures separated by a ramification of canyons, each
having its own walls. Thus, in passing down the canyon it seems to be
inclosed by walls, but oftener by salients—towering structures that stand
between canyons that run back into the plateau. Sometimes gorges of the
second or third order have met before reaching the brink of the Grand Canyon,
and then great salients are cut off from the wall and stand out as buttes—huge
pavilions in the architecture of the canyon. The scenic elements thus
described are fused and combined in very different ways.</p>
<h3>Its Length</h3>
<p>We measured the length of the Grand Canyon by the length of the river
running through it, but the running extent of wall can not be measured in this
manner. In the black gneiss, which is at the bottom, the wall may stand above
the river for a few hundred yards or a mile or two; then to follow the foot of
the wall you must pass into a lateral canyon for a long distance, perhaps miles,
and then back again on the other side of the lateral canyon; then along by
the river until another lateral canyon is reached, which must be headed in the
black gneiss. So for a dozen miles of river through the gneiss there may be a
hundred miles of wall on either side. Climbing to the summit of the black
gneiss and following the wall in the variegated quartzite, it is found to be
stretched out to a still greater length, for it is cut with more lateral gorges.
In like manner there is yet greater length of the mottled (or alcove) sandstone
wall, and the red wall is still farther stretched out in ever-branching gorges.</p>
<p>To make the distance for ten miles along the river by walking along the
top of the red wall it would be necessary to travel several hundred miles. The
length of the wall reaches its maximum in the banded sandstone, which is terraced
more than any of the other formations. The tower limestone wall is
less tortuous. To start at the head of the Grand Canyon on one of the terraces
of the banded sandstone and follow it to the foot of the Grand Canyon, which
by river is a distance of 217 miles, it would be necessary to travel many thousand
miles by the winding way; that is, the banded wall is many thousand
miles in length.</p>
<h3>As Seen Traveling Down Stream</h3>
<p>For eight or ten miles below the mouth of the Little Colorado, the river is
in the variegated quartzites, and a wonderful fretwork of forms and colors,
peculiar to this rock, stretches back for miles to a labyrinth of the red-wall
cliff; then below, the black gneiss is entered and soon has reached an altitude
of 800 feet and sometimes more than 1,000 feet, and upon this black gneiss all
the other structures in their wonderful colors are lifted. These continue for
about seventy miles, when the black gneiss below is lost, for the walls are
dropped down by the West Kaibab Fault and the river flows in the quartzites.</p>
<p>Then for eighty miles the mottled (or alcove) sandstones are found in the
river bed. The course of the canyon is a little south of west and is comparatively
straight. At the top of the red-wall limestone there is a broad terrace,
<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span>
two or three miles in width, composed of hills of wonderful forms carved in the
banded beds, and back of this is seen a cliff in the tower limestone. Along the
lower course of this stretch the whole character of the canyon is changed by
another set of complicating conditions. We have now reached a region of
volcanic activity. After the canyons were cut nearly to their present depth,
lavas poured out and volcanoes were built on the walls of the canyon, but not
in the canyon itself, though at places rivers of molten rock rolled down the
walls into the Colorado.</p>
<p>The canyon for the next eighty miles is a compound of that found where
the river is in the black gneiss and that found where the dead volcanoes stand
on the brink of the wall. In the first stretch, where the gneiss is at the foundation,
we have a great bend to the south, and in the last stretch, where the gneiss
is below and the dead volcanoes above, another great southern detour is found.
These two great beds are separated by eighty miles of comparatively straight
river.</p>
<p>Let us call this first great bend the Kaibab reach of the canyon, and the
straight part the Kanab reach, for the Kanab Creek heads far off in the plateau
to the north and joins the Colorado at the beginning of the middle stretch.
The third great southern bend is the Shiwits stretch. Thus there are three
distinct portions of the Grand Canyon: The Kaibab section, characterized
more by its buttes and salients; the Kanab section, characterized by its
comparatively straight walls with volcanoes on the brink, and the Shiwits
section, which is broken into great terraces with gneiss at the bottom and
volcanoes at the top.</p>
<h3>The Work of Erosion</h3>
<p>The erosion represented in the canyons, although vast, is but a small part
of the great erosion of the region, for between the cliffs blocks have been
carried away far superior in magnitude to those necessary to fill the canyons.
Probably there is no portion of the whole region from which there have not
been more than a thousand feet degraded, and there are districts from which
more than 30,000 feet of rock have been carried away; altogether there is a
district of country more than 200,000 square miles in extent, from which, on the
average, more than 6,000 feet have been eroded. Consider a rock 200,000 square
miles in extent and a mile in thickness, against which the clouds have hurled
their storms, and beat it into sands, and the rills have carried the sands into the
creeks, and the creeks have carried them into the rivers, and the Colorado has
carried them into the sea.</p>
<p>We think of the mountains as forming clouds about their brows, but the
clouds have formed the mountains. Great continental blocks are upheaved
from beneath the sea by internal geologic forces that fashion the earth. Then
the wandering clouds, the tempest-bearing clouds, the rainbow-decked clouds,
with mighty power and with wonderful skill, carve out valleys and canyons
and fashion hills and cliffs and mountains. The clouds are the artists sublime.</p>
<h3>Winter and Cloud Effects</h3>
<p>In winter some of the characteristics of the Grand Canyon are emphasized.
The black gneiss below, the variegated quartzite, and the green or alcove
sandstone form the foundation for the mighty red wall. The banded sandstone
entablature is crowned by the tower limestone. In winter this is covered with
snow. Seen from below, these changing elements seem to graduate into the
heavens, and no plane of demarcation between wall and blue firmament can be
seen. The heavens constitute a portion of the façade and mount into a vast
dome from wall to wall, spanning the Grand Canyon with empyrean blue. So
the earth and the heavens are blended in one vast structure.</p>
<div class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</div>
<div class="fig"><ANTIMG src="images/p009.jpg" alt="" width-obs="800" height-obs="549" /> <p class="caption"><span class="small">Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody.</span> The Lower Gorge, Foot of Bright Angel Trail.</p>
</div>
<div class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</div>
<p>When the clouds play in the canyon, as they often do in the rainy season,
another set of effects is produced. Clouds creep out of canyons and wind into
other canyons. The heavens seem to be alive, not moving as move the heavens
over a plain, in one direction with the wind, but following the multiplied
courses of these gorges. In this manner the little clouds seem to be individualized,
to have wills and souls of their own and to be going on diverse errands—a
vast assemblage of self-willed clouds faring here and there, intent upon
purposes hidden in their own breasts. In imagination the clouds belong to the
sky, and when they are in the canyon the skies come down into the gorges and
cling to the cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights, for the sky must
still be far away. Thus they lend infinity to the walls.</p>
<p>You can not see the Grand Canyon in one view as if it were a changeless
spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have to toil
from month to month through its labyrinths. It is a region more difficult to
traverse than the Alps or the Himalayas, but if strength and courage are sufficient
for the task, by a year’s toil a concept of sublimity can be obtained never again
to be equaled on the hither side of paradise.</p>
<div class="fig"><ANTIMG src="images/p010.jpg" alt="" width-obs="669" height-obs="600" /> <p class="caption"><span class="small">Copyright, 1899, by H. G. Peabody.</span> On Grand View Point.</p>
</div>
<div class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</div>
<div class="fig"><ANTIMG src="images/p010a.jpg" alt="Uncaptioned vista" width-obs="800" height-obs="323" /></div>
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