<h2><SPAN name="Letter_2" id="Letter_2"></SPAN>Letter 2.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Adelphi Hotel, Liverpool</span>, April 14.</p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">It is but twelve days since we parted, and yet
we are actually in the old world, and the things
which we have so often talked over on the rock-bound
shore are really before me. Yes, we
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_19" id="Page_19" title="19"></SPAN></span>are on the soil of Old England, and are soon to
see its glories and greatness, and, I fear, its miseries,
for a bird's eye view has already satisfied me
that there is enough of poverty. You know we left
New York in a soaking rain, and the wind blowing
fresh from the north-east. We all felt disappointed,
as we had hoped to pass down the bay, so celebrated
for its beauty, with the bright sunshine to
cheer our way; but we had to take comfort from
the old proverb, that "a bad beginning makes a
good ending." James, George, and I had made up
our minds to a regular time of sea-sickness, and
so we hastened to put our state room into order
and have all our conveniences fixed for the voyage.
As soon as we had made matters comfortable, we
returned to the deck, and found a most formidable
crowd. Every passenger seemed to have, on the
occasion, a troop of friends, and all parts of the immense
steamer were thronged. The warning voice
of <i>"all on shore"</i> soon caused a secession, and at
twelve o'clock we had the great agent at work by
which we hoped to make headway against wind and
wave. The cheering of the crowd upon the wharf
was hearty as we dropped into the river, and its
return from our passengers was not lacking in spirit.
The Arctic, you know, is one of the Collins line of
steamers, and I was not a little surprised at her vast
size and splendid accommodations, because I had
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_20" id="Page_20" title="20"></SPAN></span>only seen the Cunard boats in Boston, which are
very inferior, in size and comfort, to this palace and
tower of the ocean.</p>
<p class="text">We all anticipated a hard time of it, from the
severe storm which raged all the morning, and I,
in common with all the passengers, was delighted
to find it any thing but rough water outside the
Hook. We kept steaming away till we lost sight of
land with the loss of daylight, and yet the sea was in
less commotion than it frequently exhibits in Newport
Harbor. The next morning, at breakfast, we
had quite a fair representation at table, and I think
more than two thirds presented themselves for duty.
We boys were all on hand, and passed for "able-bodied
men." The routine of life on board was
as follows: We breakfasted at eight, lunched at
twelve, dined at four, took tea at half past six, and
from nine till eleven gentlemen had any article for
supper they saw fit to order. This is quite enough
of time for taking care of the outer man, and any
one careful of his health will be sure to intermit
one or two of these seasons. All the meals were
excellent, and the supplies liberal. The tables present
a similar appearance to those of a first-class
hotel. In regard to our passengers, I think I can
say, with confidence, that a more agreeable set of
persons could not well have been gathered together.
It really was a nicely-assorted cargo. We numbered
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_21" id="Page_21" title="21"></SPAN></span>one hundred and thirty, and the various parts of our
country were all represented. Philadelphia sent
the largest delegation; from that city we had more
than twenty. I liked the looks of the passengers
at the first glance, and every day's intercourse
heightened my estimate of their worth and pleasantness.
Amongst the company we had Professor
Haddock, of Dartmouth College, going out to Portugal
as <i>chargé d'affaires</i>. He was accompanied by
his lady and son. Then, too, we had the world-renowned
Peter Parley, with his accomplished family
circle. Mr. Goodrich, after a long life of labor
for the youth of his country, for whose reading and
instruction he has done so much, has been honored
by the government of the United States with an
appointment as consul at Paris. Mr. Goodrich
resided there for two or three years, and was in
Paris during the revolution of 1848. He seems
fond of the company of young people, and we spent
a great deal of time on board with him, listening
to his stories, some made up for the occasion, and
narrations of the events in February at Paris, and
some capital anecdotes about the last war with England,
during which he served his country in the
army. The Hon. George Wright, of California,
and her first representative in Congress, was also
one of our party; and his glowing descriptions of
the auriferous regions kept groups of audience for
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_22" id="Page_22" title="22"></SPAN></span>many an hour. The Rev. Arthur Cleveland Cox,
of Hartford, favorably known as the author of some
pleasant rhymes and sonnets, Mr. Cunningham, a
southern editor, and several retired sea captains, all
contributed to enhance the agreeableness of the
voyage. I am sorry to tell you that, three days
out, we had a sad occurrence in our little world.
Just as we were sitting down to lunch at eight bells,
the machinery stopped for a moment, and we were
informed that William Irwin, one of the assistant
engineers, was crushed to death. He accidentally
slipped from his position, and was killed instantaneously.
In less than half an hour he was sewed
up in canvas, and all hands called to attend his
funeral services! The poor fellow was laid upon
a plank covered with the American flag, and placed
at the wheel-house. The service was performed by
Mr. Cox, in full canonicals; and I can assure you
that the white-robed priest, as he issued from the
cabin and ascended the wheel-house, really looked
impressively. At the close, he was committed to the
deep. What food for thought was here! A man
in health and at life's daily task,—alive,—dead,—and
buried,—all these conditions of his state
crowded into thirty minutes! The poor man had a
mother who was dependent upon him. Dr. Choules
drew up a subscription paper for her benefit, and
nearly five hundred dollars were at once raised for
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<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_25" id="Page_25" title="25"></SPAN></span>
her relief. This unhappy event, of course, gave a
sad damper to the joyous feelings which existed on
board, and which were excited by our fine weather
and rapid headway. On Sunday we had two sermons
in the cabin to large congregations, all the
passengers attending, with the officers and many
of the crew. The morning service was by Dr.
Choules, and the evening one by Mr. Cox.</p>
<p><br/></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="FOUR_POSITIONS_OF_AN_ICEBERG" id="FOUR_POSITIONS_OF_AN_ICEBERG"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/pg027.png"><ANTIMG src="images/pg027.png" width-obs="400" height-obs="167" alt="Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon." title="Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon." /></SPAN> <span class="caption">Four Positions of an Iceberg, seen 6th of April. Estimated Height, 300 feet. Lat. 43.04; long. 53.11; at Noon.</span></div>
<p><br/></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="ICEBERGS_SEEN_FROM_THE_STEAMSHIP" id="ICEBERGS_SEEN_FROM_THE_STEAMSHIP"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/pg027-2.png"><ANTIMG src="images/pg027-2.png" width-obs="400" height-obs="85" alt="Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851." title="Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851." /></SPAN> <span class="caption">Icebergs seen from the Steamship "Arctic," on the Voyage from New York to Liverpool, April 6, 1851.</span></div>
<p><br/></p>
<p class="text">In the afternoon, April 6, we had the gratification
to see a magnificent iceberg. We were in lat. 43°
4', lon. 53° 11' at twelve o'clock, and at three the
ice appeared at about ten miles' distance. The estimated
height was about three hundred feet. One
if the passengers took a sketch. I also made one,
and have laid it aside for your inspection.</p>
<p class="text">The berg had much the appearance of the gable
end of a large house, and at some little distance
there was another, of tower-like aspect, and much
resembling a light-house. The effect of the sun
upon it, as we saw it in various positions, was
exceedingly fine. On Monday, the 7th, we saw a
much larger one, with several small ones as neighbors.
This was probably one mile in length, and
about two hundred feet high.</p>
<p class="text">We saw several whales frolicking at the distance
of a mile, and distinctly saw them spout at short
intervals.</p>
<p class="text">After having had all reason to hope for a ten-day
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_26" id="Page_26" title="26"></SPAN></span>passage, we were annoyed for four or five days with
head winds, materially retarding our headway. The
evenings of the voyage were generally spent on
deck, where we had charming concerts. Seldom
have I heard better singing than we were favored
with by eight or ten ladies and gentlemen. One
universal favorite was the beautiful piece, "Far, far
at sea." On Sunday, the 13th, just after morning
service, conducted by Mr. Cox, we made Mizzen
Head, and obtained a magnificent view of the north
coast of Ireland, which was far more beautiful
than we had expected. The coast is very bold,
and the cliffs precipitous, in many places strongly
reminding us of the high lands of the Hudson. A
more exquisite treat than that which we enjoyed all
the afternoon in looking on the Irish coast I can
hardly imagine. At night we had a closing service,
and Dr. Choules preached. Every one seemed to
feel that we had cause for thankfulness that we
had been brought in safety across the ocean, and
under so many circumstances of enjoyment We
have made acquaintances that are truly valuable,
and some of them I hope to cultivate in future life.
One of the great advantages of travel, Charles,
seems to be, that it enables us to compare men of
other places than those we live in with our former
acquaintances. It brings us into intercourse with
those who have had a different training and educa<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_27" id="Page_27" title="27"></SPAN></span>tion
than our own; and I think a man or boy must
be pretty thoroughly conceited who does not often
find out his own inferiority to many with whom he
chances to meet. On board our ship are several
young men of fine attainments, who, engaged in mechanical
business, are going out to obtain improvement
and instruction by a careful study of the great
exhibition. A number of gentlemen with us are
young merchants, who represent houses in our great
cities, and go to England and France twice and
three times every year. Some of these are thoroughly
accomplished men, and, wherever they go,
will reflect credit upon their country. In no country,
perhaps, do young men assume important trusts
in commercial life at so early a period as in America.
I have heard one or two Englishmen on board
express their surprise at finding large business operations
intrusted to young men of twenty and twenty-one;
and yet there are some such with us who are
making their second and third trips to Manchester,
Leeds, Paisley, and Paris, for the selection of goods.</p>
<p class="text">I ought to tell you that, on the last day of the
voyage, we had a great meeting in the cabin, Mr.
Goodrich in the chair, for the purpose of expressing
the satisfaction of the passengers with the Arctic,
her captain, officers, and engineer. Several good
speeches were made, and some resolutions passed.
This has become so ordinary an affair at the termi<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_28" id="Page_28" title="28"></SPAN></span>nation
of a passage, as to have lost much of its
original value; but as this ship had an unusual
number of passengers, many of them well known
to their fellow-countrymen, and as great opposition
had been displayed, on both sides of the ocean, to
this line of steamers, it was thought suitable to
express our views in relation to this particular ship
and the great undertaking with which she is identified.
Every man on board was satisfied that, in
safety, these ships are equal to the Cunard line;
while in comfort, accommodation, size, and splendor
they far surpass their rivals. It really seems
strange to us that Americans should think of making
the ocean trip in an English steamship, when their
own country has a noble experiment in trial, the
success of which alone depends upon the patriotism
and spirit of her citizens. The English on board
are forced to confess that our ship and the line are
all that can be asked, and I think that pretty strong
prejudices have been conquered by this voyage.
Every one left the ship with sentiments of respect
to Captain Luce, who, I assure you, we found to be
a very kind friend, and we shall all of us be glad
to meet him again on ship or shore.</p>
<p class="text">On Monday, the 14th, at three o'clock, we took
our pilot, and at eight o'clock we anchored off Liverpool,
and a dark-looking steamtug came off to
us for the mails, foreign ministers, and bearers of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_29" id="Page_29" title="29"></SPAN></span>despatches. As we came under the wing of one of
the last-named class of favored individuals, we took
our luggage, and proceeded straight to the Adelphi
Hotel. I ought to say that James was the first to
quit the ship and plant his foot on Old England. It
was quite strange to see it so light at half past eight
o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall
not soon forget the cheerful appearance of the
Adelphi, which, in all its provisions for comfort,
both in the coffee-room and our chambers, struck
me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen.
Although our state-room on board the Arctic was
one of the extra size and every thing that was nice,
yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber
and a warm bath. I am quite disposed to join
with the poor Irish woman who had made a steerage
passage from New York to Liverpool in a packet
ship; and when landed at St. George's pier, and
seated on her trunk, a lady who had also landed,
when getting into her carriage, said, "Well, my
good woman, I suppose you are very glad to get
out of the ship?" Her reply was, "And indeed, my
lady, every bone in my body cries out <i>feathers!</i>"</p>
<p class="center">Yours truly,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">weld.</span></p>
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