<h2><SPAN name="Letter_3" id="Letter_3"></SPAN>Letter 3.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Liverpool.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and
yet I can scarcely realize the fact that I am here in
Old England, and that, for some months at least, I
shall be away from home and the occupations of the
school-room. The next day after landing we went
to the custom-house to see our fellow-passengers pass
their effects, and really felt glad to think of our
good fortune in landing every thing at night and
direct from the ship. It was an exciting scene,
and I was not a little amused to observe the
anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from
the duty imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings
sterling per pound. All sorts of contrivances
were in vogue, and the experiences of men were
various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being
brought up, while his neighbor with five hundred
passed off successfully, and, as he cleared the building,
seemed disposed to place his finger on the
prominent feature of his face.</p>
<p class="text">I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After
walking through the principal streets and making a
general survey of the shops,—no one speaks of
<i>store</i>,—I think I can testify to the extraordinary
cleanness of the city, and the massiveness and grandeur
of the public buildings.</p>
<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_31" id="Page_31" title="31"></SPAN></span>Our attention was first directed to the cemetery
which had been described, you remember, to us one
evening in the study. It is on the confines of the
city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it
better than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all
I had seen, and, though comparatively small, is very
picturesque, I may almost say romantic. The walls
are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and the
groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth.
Some of the monuments are striking. The
access to this resting-place is by a steep cut through
the rock, and you pass under an archway of the
most imposing character. At the entrance of the
cemetery is a neat chapel, and the officiating minister
has a dwelling-house near the gate.</p>
<p class="text">I wish you could see a building now in progress,
and which has taken twelve or fourteen years to
erect, and from its appearance will not, I suppose,
be finished in four or five more. It is called St.
George's Hall. The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations
for the various law courts, and also to
contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in a
commanding position. I know little of architecture,
but this building strikes me as one of exquisite
beauty. We obtained an order from the mayor to
be shown over it and examine the works, and we
enjoyed it very much. The great hall will be without
a rival in England. The town hall is a noble
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_32" id="Page_32" title="32"></SPAN></span>edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The
interior is finely laid out, and has some spacious
rooms for the civic revelries of the fathers of the
town. The good woman who showed us round feels
complacently enough as she explains the uses of the
rooms. The ball-room is ninety feet by forty-six, and
forty feet high. The dining and drawing-rooms are
spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a
noble statue of George Canning, by Chantrey,
whose beautiful one of Washington we have so often
admired in the Boston State House. In the building
are some good paintings of the late kings; one
or two by Sir Thomas Lawrence. The Exchange
is directly behind the hall, and contains in the centre
a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the
joint production of Wyat and Westmacott. Death
is laying his hand upon the hero's heart, and Victory
is placing a fourth crown on his sword. Ever since
I read Southey's Life of Nelson, I have felt an interest
in every thing relating to this great; yet imperfect
man. You know that illustrated work on
Nelson that we have so often looked at it contains
a large engraving of this monument. As Yankee
boys, we found our way to the top of the Exchange,
to look at the cotton sales-room. This same room
has more to do with our good friends at the south
than any other in the world. The atmosphere
would have been chilly to a Georgian planter, as
cotton was down—down.</p>
<p class="text"><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_33" id="Page_33" title="33"></SPAN></span>The Necropolis is a very spacious burying-place,
open to all classes, and where persons can be interred
with the use of any form desired. The gateway is
of stone, and not unlike the granite one at Mount
Auburn; and on one side is a chapel, and on the
other a house for the register. Not far from this
we came to the Zoölogical Gardens, kept in excellent
order, and where is a good collection of animals,
birds, &c. The Collegiate Institution is an
imposing structure in the Tudor style.</p>
<p class="text">St. George's Church, which stands at the head of
Lord Street, occupies the position of the old castle,
destroyed, I believe, more than one hundred and
fifty years ago, and is a very graceful termination to
one of the best business avenues of the city. Several
of the churches and chapels are in good style.
But one of the best buildings is—as it should be, in
a city like this—the Sailor's Home, not far from the
Custom House. This is a highly-ornamented house,
and would adorn any city of the world.</p>
<p class="text">The Custom House is thought to be one of the
finest buildings in the kingdom. It occupied ten
years in its erection. It is composed of three <i>façades</i>,
from a rusticated pavement, each having a
splendid portico of eight Ionic columns. The
whole is surmounted by a dome, one hundred and
thirty feet high, and the effect of the building
is excellent. The glory of Liverpool is her
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_34" id="Page_34" title="34"></SPAN></span>docks, and a stranger is sure to be pointed to the
great landing stage, an immense floating pier, which
was moored into its present position on the 1st of
June, 1847. This stage is five hundred and seven
feet long, and over eighty feet wide. This mass of
timber floats upon pontoons, which have to support
more than two thousand tons. At each end is a
light barge.</p>
<p class="text">In the Clarence dock are to be found the Irish
and coasting steamers, and to the north are the
Trafalgar, Victoria, and Waterloo docks; the Prince's
dock, and the Great Prince's dock basin. On the
outside of all these is a fine parade, of about one half
a mile, and which affords one of the most beautiful
marine promenades in the world, and gives an interesting
view of the Cheshire shore, opposite the city.
The Prince's dock is five hundred yards long, and
one hundred broad. Vessels, on arriving, discharge
on the east side, and take in cargo on the west.
Besides all these there is the Brunswick dock, Queen's
dock, Duke's dock, Salthouse dock, &c.</p>
<p class="text">The Royal Liverpool Institution is a great benefit
to the inhabitants. It has a good library, fine collections
of paintings, and a good museum of natural
history. Many of these paintings belong to the
early masters, and date even before the fifteenth
century. We were interested to find here a complete
set of casts of the Elgin marbles. The origi<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_35" id="Page_35" title="35"></SPAN></span>nals
were the decorations of the Parthenon at
Athens, and are now in the British Museum. As
we shall spend some time in that collection, I say no
more at present about these wonderful monuments
of genius. The Athenæum and the Lyceum are
both fine buildings, and each has a good library,
lecture, and news rooms.</p>
<p class="text">We were disappointed at finding the Rev. Dr.
Raffles, the most eloquent preacher of the city, out
of town. He was the successor of Spencer, who
was drowned bathing in the Mersey, and his Life by
Raffles is one of deep interest. The great historical
name of Liverpool is William Roscoe, the
author of the Lives of Leo X. and the Medici. I
must not omit to tell you that, during our stay, the
town was all alive with a regiment of lancers, just
arrived from Ireland, on their way to London. They
are indeed fine-looking fellows, and are mounted on
capital horses. I have watched their evolutions in
front of the Adelphi with much pleasure, and have
been amused to notice a collection of the most
wretched-looking boys I ever saw, brought together
by the troops. There seems to me more pauperism
this week, in Liverpool, than I ever saw in New
York in my life.</p>
<p class="center">Truly yours,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_36" id="Page_36" title="36"></SPAN></span></p>
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