<h2><SPAN name="Letter_9" id="Letter_9"></SPAN>Letter 9.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Bristol.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">Clifton and the Hot Wells are the suburbs of
this city, extending along for a mile or two on the
banks of the Avon. One mile below the city the
Avon passes between the rocks which are known as
St. Vincent's on the one side, and Leigh Woods upon
the opposite one. These rocks are amongst the
sublimities of nature, and the Avon for about three
miles presents the wildest and sweetest bit of scenery
imaginable. These cliffs have been for ages the admiration
of all beholders, and though thousands of
tons are taken from the quarries every year, yet the
inhabitants say that no great change takes place in
their appearance. The Avon has a prodigious rise
of tide at Bristol, and at low water the bed of the
river is a mere brook, with immense banks of mud.
The country all around is exquisitely attractive, and
affords us an idea of cultivation and adornment
beyond what we are accustomed to at home. In
these rocks are found fine crystals, which are known
every where as Bristol diamonds. We obtained
some specimens, which reminded us of the crystals
so frequently seen at Little Falls, on the Mohawk.
The great celebrity of the Hot Wells is chiefly owing
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_66" id="Page_66" title="66"></SPAN></span>to a hot spring, which issues from the rock, and
possesses valuable medical qualities.</p>
<p class="text">This spring had a reputation as early as 1480. It
discharges about forty gallons per minute, and was
first brought into notice by sailors, who found it useful
for scorbutic disorders. In 1680 it became
famous, and a wealthy merchant rendered it so by a
dream. He was afflicted with diabetes, and dreamed
that he was cured by drinking the water of this
spring. He resorted to the imagined remedy, and
soon recovered. Its fame now spread, and, in
1690, the corporation of Bristol took charge of the
spring. We found the water, fresh from the spring,
at the temperature of Fahrenheit 76°. It contains
free carbonic acid gas. Its use is seen chiefly in
cases of pulmonary consumption. I suppose it has
wrought wonders in threatening cases. It is the
place for an <i>invalid</i> who <i>begins to fear</i>, but it is not
possible to "create a soul under the ribs of death."
Unhappily, people in sickness too seldom repair to
such aid as may here be found till the last chances
of recovery are exhausted. I have never seen a
spot where I thought the fragile and delicate in constitution
might pass a winter, sheltered from every
storm, more securely than in this place. Tie houses
for accommodation are without end, both at the
Hot Wells and at Clifton. This last place is on the
high ground, ascending up to the summit of the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_67" id="Page_67" title="67"></SPAN></span>rocks, where you enter on a noble campus known as
Durdham Down. This extends for some three or
four miles, and is skirted by charming villages,
which render the environs of Bristol so far-famed
for beauty.</p>
<p class="text">I never wished to have your company more than
when we all ascended the height of St. Vincent's
Rocks. The elevation at which we stood was about
three hundred and fifty feet above the winding river
which, it is thought, by some sudden convulsion of
nature, turned from the moors <i>of</i> Somersetshire, its
old passage to the sea, and forced an abrupt one
between the rocks and the woods; and the corresponding
dip of the strata, the cavities on one side,
and projections on the other, make the supposition
very plausible. A suspension bridge over this awful
chasm is in progress.</p>
<p class="text">The celebrated pulpit orator, Robert Hall, always
spoke of the scenery of this region as having done
very much in his early days to form his notions of
the beautiful. In one of his most admirable sermons,
preached at Bristol, when discoursing upon
"the new heavens and the new earth," he indulged
in an astonishing outbreak of eloquence, while he
conducted his audience to the surpassing beauties of
their own vicinage, sin-ruined as it was, and then
supposed that this earth might become the dwelling-place
of the redeemed, when, having been purified
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_68" id="Page_68" title="68"></SPAN></span>from all evil, it should again become "very good."
Here, on these scenes of unrivalled beauty, Southey,
and Lovell, and Coleridge, and Cottle have loved to
meditate; and the wondrous boy Chatterton fed his
muse amid these rare exhibitions of the power and
wisdom of the Godhead. A Roman encampment is
still visible on the summit of the rocks. We were
all sorry, to see such havoc going on among the
quarries, where, to use Southey's language on this
subject, they are "selling off the sublime and beautiful
by the boat load."</p>
<p><br/></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <SPAN name="Samuel_Taylor_Coleridge" id="Samuel_Taylor_Coleridge"></SPAN> <SPAN href="images/pg071.png"><ANTIMG src="images/pg071_th.png" width-obs="325" height-obs="400" alt="Samuel Taylor Coleridge." title="Samuel Taylor Coleridge." /></SPAN><span class="caption">Samuel Taylor Coleridge.</span></div>
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_69" id="Page_69" title="69"></SPAN></span></p>
<p><br/></p>
<p class="text">Our favorite walk is on the downs. George
seems really penetrated with the uncommon beauty
of the region, and wants to stop as long as possible,
and does not believe any thing can be more beautiful.
We look over the awful cliffs—gaze on the
thread of water winding its devious course at an immense
distance below—watch the steamers from
Wales and Ireland shoot up to the city, and the
noble West Indiamen, as they are towed along.
The woods opposite are charming, and contain
nearly every forest-tree belonging to the country.
Dr. Holland, in his travels through Greece, refers to
this very spot in the following language: "The features
of nature are often best described by comparison;
and to those who have visited Vincent's Rocks,
below Bristol, I cannot convey a more sufficient
idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe than by saying
that its scenery resembles, though on a much
larger scale, that of the former place. The Peneus,
indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not greatly
wider than the Avon, and the channel between the
cliffs irregularly contracted in its dimensions; but
these cliffs themselves are much loftier and more
precipitous, and project their vast masses of rock
with still more extraordinary abruptness over the
hollow beneath." We devoted a morning to visit
Leigh Court, the residence of Mr. Miles, a wealthy
merchant and member in Parliament for Bristol.
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_70" id="Page_70" title="70"></SPAN></span>This is regarded as one of the finest residences in
the west of England. The mansion has an Ionic
portico, supported by massive columns. The great
hall is very extensive. A double flight of steps
leads you to a peristyle of the Ionic order, around
which are twenty marble columns, supporting a lofty
dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of
colored marble. This residence has been enriched
with the choicest treasures from Wanstead House,
and Fonthill Abbey. To us the grand attraction
was the Picture Gallery, which has few superiors in
the kingdom. A catalogue, with etchings, was published
a few years ago. You may judge of the
merits of the collection, and the nature of our gratification,
when I tell you that here are the Conversion
of Paul, by Rubens; the Graces, by Titian;
William Tell, by Holbein; Pope Julius II., by Raphael;
Ecce Homo, by Carl Dolci; Head of the
Virgin, by Correggio; St. Peter, by Guido; St. John,
by Domenichino; Creator Mundi, by Leonardo da
Vinci; Crucifixion, by Michael Angelo; Plague of
Athens, by N. Poussin; three Seaports, by Claude;
and a large number by Rembrandt, Salvator Rosa,
Paul Potter, Parmegiano, Velasques, Gerard Dow,
&c. This has been a most gratifying excursion, and
our visit here will be a matter of pleasant recollection.
I forgot to say that at Clifton, and at
various places near the rocks, we were beset by men,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_71" id="Page_71" title="71"></SPAN></span>women, and children, having very beautiful polished
specimens of the various stones found in the quarries,
together with minerals and petrifactions. Of
these we all obtained an assortment.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p>
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