Back Aa

Young Americans Abroad

Close

<h2>Letter 12.</h2> London. Dear Charley:— George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel, which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets, reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite. Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in 1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of, perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling. The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a very large pasteboard model—such a thing as you often see in ladies' fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to understand its gorgeous character. "Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window, which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens, consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne, each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey, but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery, intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions. "At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne, are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels, presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen. "This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is sixty feet to the crown of the groin." The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet. An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs. The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery, over which is the ladies' gallery—being behind a stone screen. The libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants force. After leaving the Houses of Parliament, we went to Westminster Hall, which has some of the finest historical recollections connected with any public building in England. Really, I felt more awe in entering this hall than I ever remember to have experienced. I cannot tell you the size of it, but it is the largest room in Europe without a support, and the span of the roof is the widest known. The roof, of chestnut, is exceedingly fine. Only think, my dear fellow, what events have transpired on this spot. The following trials took place here: Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, for high treason, 1521; Sir Thomas More, 1535; Duke of Somerset, for treason, 1552; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, for his attachment to Mary, Queen of Scots; Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, 1601, and Earl of Southampton; Guy Fawkes and the Gun-powder Plot conspirators; Robert Carr, Earl of Southampton, and his countess, for murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, 1616; Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, 1641; Archbishop Laud; Charles I., for his attacks upon the liberties of his country, 1649; the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; Dr. Sacheverel, 1710; in 1716, the Earls Derwentwater, Nithisdale, and Carnwath, and the Lords Widdington, Kenmure, and Nairn, for the rebellion of 1715; Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1717; the Earls Cromartie and Kilmarnock, and Lord Balmerino, 1746, for the rebellion of 1745; Lord Lovat, 1747; William Lord Byron, for the death of William Chaworth in a bloody duel, 1765; Lord Ferrers, for the murder of his steward; the infamous Duchess of Kingston, for bigamy, 1776; and Warren Hastings, for cruelty in his office as Governor of India, 1788. And besides all this, here have been the coronation feasts of all England's monarchs, from William Rufus, who built it in 1099, down to George IV., 1820. Sad times and merry ones have been here. We stepped from the hall into the courts of law, which have entrances from this apartment, and we saw the lord chancellor on the bench in one, and the judges sitting in another. The courts were small, and not very imposing in their appearance. Yours truly, james. <hr style="width: 65%;" /> <div style="break-after:column;"></div>

1 of 2

2 of 2