<h2><SPAN name="Letter_15" id="Letter_15"></SPAN>Letter 15.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">London.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">I know how curious you are to hear all about the
royal exhibition, so I shall do my best to give you
such an account of our visits to it as may enable
you to get a bird's eye view of the affair.</p>
<p class="text">Almost as soon as I arrived, I determined upon
securing season tickets for the boys, in order that
they might not only see the pageant of the opening
on the 1st of May, but also have frequent opportunities
to attend the building and study its contents
before the reduced prices should so crowd the palace
as to render examination and study nearly impracticable.
However, there came a report through all
the daily papers that the queen had abandoned the
idea of going in person to inaugurate the exhibition,
and the sale of tickets flagged, and it was
thought prices would be reduced below the three
guineas, which had been the rate. I left London for
a few days without purchasing, and on my return I
called for four season tickets, when, to my surprise,
I was told that, just an hour before, orders had been
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_98" id="Page_98" title="98"></SPAN></span>given from the board to raise them to four guineas.
I at once purchased them, although I regarded the
matter as an imposition. A few days after, Prince
Albert revoked the action of the board, and orders
were issued to refund the extra guinea to all who
had purchased at the advanced price. This was
easily ascertained by reference to the number on the
ticket, and registered at purchase with the autograph
of the proprietor. Of course, we saved our
four guineas.</p>
<p class="text">For several days before the 1st of May all London,
I may say all England, and almost all the world was
on tiptoe. Every man, woman, and child talked of
"the Crystal Palace, the great exhibition, the queen,
and prince Albert."</p>
<p class="text">For a week or two there had been a succession of
cold rain storms. Winter had lingered in the lap of April.
Men were looking at the 1st of May with
gloomy anticipations of hail, rain, snow, and sleet.
Barometers were in demand. The 30th of April
gave a hail storm! The 1st of May arrives,—<i>the
day,</i>—and lo!</p>
<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
<span class="i0">"Heaven is clear,<br/></span>
<span class="i0">And all the clouds are gone."<br/></span></div>
</div>
<p class="text">It was as though the windows of heaven were opened
to let the glory from above stream through and
bless Industry's children, who are about to celebrate
their jubilee. The queen, it is said, has a charm
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_99" id="Page_99" title="99"></SPAN></span>as regards the weather. I heard many exclaim, "It
is the queen's weather; it is always her luck."
Such a sight as that day afforded was never before
witnessed, and such a spectacle will probably never
again be gazed upon. The streets were thronged
early. Every westward artery of the great city
pulsated with the living tide that flowed through it.
From the far east, where the docks border the
Thames, came multitudes, though not exactly stars
in the hemisphere of fashion. Ladies in the aristocratic
precincts of Belgravia rose at an early hour,
and, for once, followed the queen's good, every-day
example. The lawyers rushed from Lincoln's and
Gray's Inns of Court. The Royal Exchange was so
dull at ten o'clock that the very grasshopper on its vane
might have been surprised. Holborn was crammed at
when in olden time people pressed, and struggled,
and strove to see Jack Sheppard, Joshua Wild, Dick
Turpin, or any such worthies on their sad way to
Tyburn. But it is no gibbet now allures the morbid
multitude. They are gayly, gently, and gladly travelling
to the home of industry. Among all the
pleasant sights that every moment delighted us
none were more pleasant than the happy family
groups, who, on every side, "push along, keep
moving." Just see that mechanic; he looks as
proud as a lord,—and why shouldn't he be?—with
his wife leaning trustingly, lovingly on his arm.
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_100" id="Page_100" title="100"></SPAN></span>He, good man, has thrown away the saw, or plane,
or any other tool of handicraft, and now his little
boy—O, the delight, the wonder in that boy's face!—is
willingly dragged along. Well, on we go,—driving
across what you would call impassable streets,
and lo! we are wedged up in a crowd,—and such
a crowd,—a crowd of all nations.</p>
<p class="text">At length we reach the palace gates; and there,
who can tell the press and strife for entrance. Long
and nobly did the police struggle and resist, but at
length the outward pressure was omnipotent, and
the full tide of lucky ones with season tickets gained,
entrance into, not the palace, but the enclosure.
Then came order,—breathing space,—tickets were
examined, and places assigned on cards, given as we
entered into the palace itself. We all obtained good
positions—very good ones. This was at eleven
o'clock. At about a quarter to twelve, one standing
near to us remarked, "She will be to her time;
she always is." And he was right; for scarcely
had he prophesied before a prolonged shouting told
that the queen was coming. "Plumes in the light
wind dancing" were the outward and visible signs
of the Life Guards, who came gently trotting up.
Then came four carriages,—the coachmen and footmen
of which were so disguised with gold lace, and
wigs, and hair powder, that their mothers wouldn't
have known them,—and then the queen—not robed
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_101" id="Page_101" title="101"></SPAN></span>and tricked out like the queens in children's story
books, so dreadful as to resemble thunderbolts in
petticoats; not hooped, and furbelowed, and stomachered,
and embroidered all over, as was Elizabeth;
nor with a cap, like Mary, Queen of Scots; not
with eight horses prancing before the queen's carriage,
but in her private carriage, drawn by two
horses. Off went all hats. I wish you could have
heard the cheering as the queen entered the wondrous
building. O, it was like "the voice of many
waters." Such deep, prolonged, hearty cheering I
never, heard. As Victoria entered, up went the
standard of England, and never before did its folds
wave over such a scene. The entrance of majesty
was the signal for the organ to play; the vitreous
roof vibrates as the sounds fly along the transparent
aisles; and we had musical glasses on a large scale.
It would require the pen of our favorite Christopher
North to describe the magnificent scene when the
queen ascended the throne, surrounded by all the
elegance and nobility of her kingdom. Her husband
reads an address; she replies; the venerable
archbishop dedicates the Temple of Industry. The
queen declares the palace opened, and the procession
is formed to walk through its aisles. No small
task this; but then thirty thousand persons are
waiting to gaze on the queen and her court. A ludicrous
sight it was to see two of England's proudest
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_102" id="Page_102" title="102"></SPAN></span>peers walking backward before the queen. The
Marquis of Westminster and Earl of Breadalbane
performed this feat, and glad enough must they have
been when they received their dismission. The
heralds, some twelve or fourteen, in black velvet,
looked finely. The queen walked like a queen, and
bore herself nobly and womanly. She is a small
figure, fair face, light hair, large, full, blue eyes,
plump cheek, and remarkably fine neck and bust.
She leaned upon her husband's right arm, holding in
her hand the Prince of Wales, while Prince Albert
led the princess royal. I was sadly disappointed
in the appearance of the Prince of Wales. He is
altogether a feeble-looking child, and cannot have
much mental force. The princess is a fine, energetic-looking
girl. We stood within a yard of the
royal party as it passed bowing along. Then
came the members of the royal family; and then
visitors from Prussia and Holland; the ladies and
gentlemen of the queen's household; the cabinet
ministers; the foreign ministers; the archbishop in
his robe, and the members of the royal commission;
the lord mayor of London, and the aldermen.
There, too, was Paxton, the architect of this great
wonder. It was his day of triumph, and every one
seemed to be glad for his fortune. All these were
in gorgeous court dresses. I have seen all sorts
and kinds of show, but never did I witness such a
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_103" id="Page_103" title="103"></SPAN></span>spectacle as was this day afforded to the congress of
the world. The Duke of Wellington, and his companion
in arms, the Marquis of Anglesea, walked
arm in arm, "par nobilis fratrum." It was Wellington's
birthday. He is eighty-two, and Anglesea
eighty-one. The Marquis walks well for a man of
his age, and who has to avail himself of an artificial
leg. They were most enthusiastically cheered in all
parts of the house. In the diplomatic corps there
was great splendor of costume, but no man carried
himself more stately than did Mr. Lawrence, whose
fine, manly figure admirably becomes a court dress.
I do not think that I ever saw a collection of ladies
so plain and homely as the court ladies of Queen
Victoria, who walked behind her in procession.
The Duchess of Sutherland has been renowned
for her majestic beauty; but she is <i>passe</i>, and her
friends are, I think, matchless for entire destitution
of personal charms. But there was enough
present to atone for the want of this in the royal
circle. Some of the most exquisite faces I ever saw
were there in those galleries, and forms of beauty
that can hardly be surpassed. I was much surprised
at noticing in the vast crowd, known to be about
thirty thousand, that there were so few lads. I do
not believe there were more than ten or fifteen in
the palace; and, as we have already said, the absence
of lads is owing to their all being at boarding-<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_104" id="Page_104" title="104"></SPAN></span>schools.
Our boys, you may well suppose, are
greatly pleased with having witnessed the greatest
pageant of the age, and one that can never be surpassed.
We shall soon be at the exhibition again,
and apply ourselves to a careful survey of its interesting
contents.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">j.o.c.</span></p>
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