<h2><SPAN name="Letter_24" id="Letter_24"></SPAN>Letter 24.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Paris.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">On a fine morning we left London, by rail, for
Dover, in company with the Rev. Dr. Murray, of
New Jersey, and Dr. Chetwood, who made quite a
pleasant addition to our party. On reaching Dover,
we were gratified with the commanding position of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_168" id="Page_168" title="168"></SPAN></span>the castle, which stands upon the white chalky cliffs
so celebrated by Shakspeare. The town lies in a
charming valley. Dover boasts of high antiquity.
The Saxons and Romans both left enduring memorials
of their residence. Its importance was felt at
a very early day, on account of its being the best
and authorized port to carry on intercourse with
France. Dover Castle was a strong fortification
when William the Conqueror landed. We found a
steamer ready to start, and in a few minutes were
all on board. The Straits of Dover are but twenty-one
miles wide; and yet, in this short passage of
barely two hours, we all suffered sadly from sea sickness.
The boat was small, the passengers were numerous,
and all were thankful to plant their feet
upon the soil of the republic. The examination of
our passports, and refreshment at the station-house,
occupied about half an hour, and we again entered
on our journey by the rail. I shall say nothing of
the place, at present, as we fully intend to pass a
day here, on our return, to examine this interesting
old city. We found the cars good, the railroad excellent
but every thing looked strange. No farms
laid out in fine fields, and divided off by hedges, as
in England; or fences and stone walls, as with us.
We every where noticed women working in the
field. We passed through St. Omer, a fortified
town, of twenty thousand inhabitants. This is a
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_169" id="Page_169" title="169"></SPAN></span>town where many English Catholics have been sent
for education. We then came to Lille, which looked
like a large city. It has about seventy thousand
inhabitants. The fortifications look very strong, and
were constructed by the great Vauban. This place
has been besieged several times—once by the
Duke of Marlborough, for three months, when it
surrendered under Marshal Boufflers. We were
amazed at the vast number of windmills—amounting
to hundreds—every where to be seen around
the town; and the tall chimneys in the town tell
plainly that this is a great manufacturing place.
The windmills are employed in preparing flax for
linen.</p>
<p class="text">Douai was our next town. It has about eighteen
thousand inhabitants, and has a foundery for ordnance.
The Theological Seminary here has been famous,
and most of the Catholic clergy of England and
Ireland were formerly educated here. Arras is a
town of about twenty-five thousand population, and
is celebrated as the birthplace of Robespierre. It
is said to be a very beautiful place, but we saw little
of it. The cars next passed through Amiens, a city
of about fifty thousand inhabitants. It was at this
city that a treaty of peace was made between France
and England, in 1802. Clermont is a very neat
little town, of about five thousand inhabitants. It
has a fine old castle, and every thing looked lively
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_170" id="Page_170" title="170"></SPAN></span>and prosperous. Pontoise, on the River Oise, is a
small town; and I should think that, from the upper
part of the town, the prospect is very beautiful.</p>
<p class="text">We reached Paris in about eleven hours and a
half from London. Really, this seems very strange,
that I should breakfast in London and dine at Paris.
After having our luggage examined at the station, by
the police, we repaired at once to the Hotel Windsor,
on the Rue Rivoli. This was the hotel where
Dr. C. had his quarters, fifteen years ago; and is it
not strange that we have the same suite of rooms
that he then occupied? We have a fine drawing-room,
a dining-room, and three good chambers.
Our hotel is exactly opposite the gardens of the
Tuileries, and is in the pleasantest part of the city.
James, you know, was once here for three months;
and he has quite a knowledge of the city, and seems
perfectly at home. We take our breakfast in our
apartments or the coffee-room, as suits us best, at
about nine o'clock; our dinners in some good <i>café</i>,
in various parts of the city, or at the <i>table d'hôte</i>,
at Meurice's Hotel, which is just next door to us.
In calling on one or two persons, we found them in
old apartments, but quite noble rooms, as high up as
four and five stories; and we hear that many families
live in the same building, and that many very respectable
people live in the sixth, and even seventh
story. This I should never like. Whenever we go
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_171" id="Page_171" title="171"></SPAN></span>out, we leave our key with the <i>concierge</i> or his wife,
who live in a snug little apartment just inside the
great gate, which opens into a well-paved court.
We have determined not to engage a guide in Paris,
because it is often annoying to have a coarse, vulgar
mind disturbing you, when all you ask is silence and
your own reflections. It is quite a mistake to suppose
that you cannot get along without a <i>valet de
place</i>—for in every hotel, and almost every large establishment,
there are persons to be found who speak
English. We paid our respects to our good friend the
consul, and found him very comfortably settled down
in his office, and residing in excellent style. A pleasant
evening with his family made us all think of our
old times on board the Arctic. The day after we arrived
was James's birthday, and he was to give us a
dinner, and had invited the consul and his son to
dine with us. Well, at five we met at the consulate,
and we boys walked ahead with Mr. G., Jr.,
leaving the doctor and the consul to bring up the
rear. He supposed that his father understood where
he proposed to take us, and so we went on speedily.
In the Rue Vivienne they lost sight of us; we arrived
at the Café Vachette, on the boulevards, and ordered
dinner for the party. The gentlemen, however, kept
walking the street for two hours. At last they gave
up the matter as a bad case, and took refuge for a
late dinner by themselves in a neighboring <i>café</i>. At
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_172" id="Page_172" title="172"></SPAN></span>nine we all met, sadly disappointed. The pleasant
occasion had been quite disarranged, and some hard
jokes passed upon our want of tact in not sending
out scouts to search the Rue Vivienne, with the
geography of which the doctor declares he is now
perfectly acquainted—having tramped it for two
hours with the consul. Of course, we all have to
take their jokes upon our defrauding them of a fine
dinner. We have dined since at the <i>Trois Frères
Provençaux</i>, which has the reputation of being one
of the best <i>cafés</i> in Paris. Our room commanded
a perfect view of the quadrangle of the Palais
Royal, and the spectacle was highly interesting.
The accommodations of the room we occupied were
very fine; and nothing could surpass the beauty of
the table linen, plate, &c. We are about to commence
the sights of the city in earnest, and are this
evening to arrange our plans.</p>
<p class="center">Yours affectionately,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">george.</span></p>
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