<h2><SPAN name="Letter_33" id="Letter_33"></SPAN>Letter 33.</h2>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Brussels.</span></p>
<p><span class="smcap">Dear Charley</span>:—</p>
<p class="text">I am thoroughly tired out with a day at Waterloo;
and, though I should be glad to retire at an early
hour, yet, as to-morrow's mail takes all letters for
the next steamer, we are all hard at the duty and
pleasure of correspondence with our friends. I
shall give you but a hurried account of our visit to
the great battle field of Europe. We were all up
early in the morning, and, after an excellent breakfast,
we engaged a carriage and pair of horses for
the day. The distance is about twelve miles. After
riding about two miles, we found the road touched
the Forest of Soignies, so well known in consequence
of Byron's description of the march of the
army from Brussels to Waterloo. On the way we
met several guides, who commended their services
to our notice, backed up by testimonials of former
travellers. We selected Pirson, and he took his
place beside the driver, and we arrived in two hour
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_218" id="Page_218" title="218"></SPAN></span>at the village. Passing by what is called a museum,
we addressed ourselves at once to a survey of the
field. There are no signs of the past, excepting in
monuments and houses that are famous for their
being occupied by the hostile parties during the battle.
We turned our attention first to the Château
of Hougomont, because, from our knowledge of
the transactions of the great day, we regarded it as
the grand point of attraction, and the central one
for our observations. This farm is an old-looking
affair, with out-buildings—a small chapel, twelve or
fifteen feet long, and the garden and orchard, having
a strong stone wall around them. This was the
strong point of the British army; and if Napoleon
could have gained it, he would have turned the flank
of the enemy. To this he directed all his power,
and the marks of the conflict are yet very apparent.
All day the attack was made, upon the farm by
thousands, under the command of Jerome Bonaparte.
The wall was pierced with loopholes, and
through these the English Coldstream Guards kept
up a most destructive fire upon the French troops.
The exterior of the wall still shows what a terrific
onset was made. We went into the house, obtained
some refreshment, bought some relics, and, among
other things, a neat brass crucifix, which hung
against the wall. We then, went to look at the
farms La Belle Alliance and La Haye Sainte—the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_219" id="Page_219" title="219"></SPAN></span>famous mound where the dead were interred, and
which is surmounted by the Belgic lion. This is an
immense work, two hundred feet high; and from the
summit we saw the entire field. Of course, we all
had our feelings excited at standing on a spot where
the two greatest soldiers of Europe measured
swords, and had a continent for spectators of the
conflict.</p>
<p class="text">When the French army marched through Waterloo,
on their way to Antwerp, in 1831, they looked
savagely at the Belgian monument, and one man
fired his musket at the lion, and the mark is still
visible upon his chin.</p>
<p class="text">We were much gratified at the farm-house of
Hougomont; and the hour we spent in its orchard
and gardens will long be remembered by us all. I
have read an account of the attack upon the house,
which says, "The Belgian yeoman's garden wall
was the safeguard of Europe, whose destinies hung
upon the possession of this house." The garden
wall is covered on the inside with ivy; and here we
secured several roots of the plant, and, having
bought a basket at the farm-house, we planted them
in earth taken from beside the grave of a British officer,
who fell in the orchard; his tombstone bears
the name of J.L. Blackman. These plants will
give us trouble to carry; but Dr. Choules has determined
upon carrying them home for Mr. Hall,
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_220" id="Page_220" title="220"></SPAN></span>whose stone house needs ivy on the walls, and he
intends obtaining roots from various places of interest
in Europe, to serve as mementoes of other
lands.</p>
<p class="text">The church is a small affair, but is full of the
testimonies of love and affection from fathers,
mothers, brothers, sisters, wives, children, and
friends, to those who fell in the bloody conflict.</p>
<p class="text">We were annoyed by urchins, who beset our
steps, eager to sell us genuine relics of the field,
which are likely to increase in number as long as
there is a demand for them. George, of course, was
in his element, and he did little but plant the different
sites in his memory, for the purpose of comparing
notes, by and by, with Gleig, Headley, &c., &c.</p>
<p class="text">I do not attempt to give you any thing like a description
of the place, or an account of the battle,
as you have books which are devoted to these
points.</p>
<p class="text">It is a circumstance worthy of notice that, in
1705, the Duke of Marlborough came very near
fighting a battle with the French, on this ground,
but was prevented by the Dutch commissioners who
were with him.</p>
<p class="text">We obtained some good engravings of the buildings
that are famous for their connection with the
battle, but they are nothing like as fine as the folio
illustrated volume of colored engravings which we
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_221" id="Page_221" title="221"></SPAN></span>have so often looked over with interest. I tried to
get a copy in London at any price, and would
have given any thing in reason; but the work is out
of print and the market, and can only be gotten at
the sale of a collector.</p>
<p class="text">On returning to Brussels, and enjoying our dinner
at a late hour, we passed the evening in the
Arcades, where we saw some beautiful goods exposed
for sale, and again examined some lacework.
You will smile at the idea of pocket
handkerchiefs which cost from one hundred to
one thousand dollars each. The embroidery of
letters upon lacework is costly; and we saw single
letters which had required a week's work.</p>
<p class="text">We like this city, and, if time allowed us, should
certainly pass a week here. I should not forget to
say that we saw the king in the Park, near to his
palace. He looks like a man of fifty-five, and, I
thought, had a melancholy air.</p>
<p class="center">Yours,</p>
<p class="right"><span class="smcap">james.</span></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN class="page" name="Page_222" id="Page_222" title="222"></SPAN></span></p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />