<div id="ch7" class="div1 chapter"><div class="divHead">
<h2 class="label">VII</h2>
<h2 class="main">MAMALA THE SURF-RIDER</h2></div>
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<p class="xd31e1273"><span class="xd31e1273init">“K</span>ou” was a noted place for games and sports among the chiefs of long ago. A little
to the east of Kou was a pond with a beautiful grove of coconut-trees belonging to
a chief, Hono-kau-pu, and afterward known by his name. Straight out toward the ocean
was the narrow entrance to the harbor, through which rolled the finest surf waves
of old Honolulu. The surf bore the name “Ke-kai-o-Mamala” (The sea of Mamala). When
the surf rose high it was called “Ka-nuku-o-Mamala” (The nose of Mamala).</p>
<p>Mamala was a chiefess of kupua character. This meant that she was a mo-o, or gigantic
lizard or crocodile, as well as a beautiful woman, and could assume whichever shape
she most desired. One of the legends says that she was a shark and woman, and had
for her husband the shark-man Ouha, afterward a shark-god having his home in the ocean
near Koko Head. Mamala and Ouha drank awa together and played konane on the large
smooth stone at Kou.</p>
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<div class="figure p052width" id="p052"><ANTIMG src="images/p052.jpg" alt="LE PASSAGE DES BRISANTS À HAWAII—SALON DE 1913—LIONEL WALDEN SOCIÉTÉ DES ARTISTES FRANÇAIS" width-obs="720" height-obs="439"><p class="figureHead">LE PASSAGE DES BRISANTS À HAWAII—SALON DE 1913—LIONEL WALDEN SOCIÉTÉ DES ARTISTES
FRANÇAIS</p>
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<p>Mamala was a wonderful surf-rider. Very skilfully she danced on the roughest waves. The surf in which she most delighted rose
far out in the rough sea, where the winds blew strong and whitecaps were on waves
which rolled in rough disorder into the bay of Kou. The people on the beach, watching
her, filled the air with resounding applause, clapping their hands over her extraordinary
athletic feats.</p>
<p>The chief, Hono-kau-pu, chose to take Mamala as his wife, so she left Ouha and lived
with her new husband. Ouha was angry and tried at first to injure Hono and Mamala,
but he was driven away. He fled to the lake Ka-ihi-Kapu toward Waikiki. There he appeared
as a man with a basketful of shrimps and fresh fish, which he offered to the women
of that place, saying, “Here is life [<i>i.e.</i>, a living thing] for the children.” He opened his basket, but the shrimps and the
fish leaped out and escaped into the water.</p>
<p>The women ridiculed the god-man. As the ancient legendary characters of all Polynesia
could not endure anything that brought shame or disgrace upon them in the eyes of
others, Ouha fled from the taunts of the women, casting off his human form, and dissolving
his connection with humanity. Thus he became the great shark-god of the coast between
Waikiki and Koko Head.
</p>
<p>The surf-rider was remembered in the beautiful mele, or chant, coming from ancient
times and called the mele of Hono-kau-pu:</p>
<div class="lgouter">
<p class="line">“The surf rises at Koolau,</p>
<p class="line">Blowing the waves into mist,</p>
<p class="line">Into little drops,</p>
<p class="line">Spray falling along the hidden harbor.</p>
<p class="line">There is my dear husband Ouha,</p>
<p class="line">There is the shaking sea, the running sea of Kou,</p>
<p class="line">The crab-like moving sea of Kou.</p>
<p class="line">Prepare the awa to drink, the crab to eat.</p>
<p class="line">The small konane board is at Hono-kau-pu.</p>
<p class="line">My friend on the highest point of the surf.</p>
<p class="line">This is a good surf for us.</p>
<p class="line">My love has gone away.</p>
<p class="line">Smooth is the floor of Kou,</p>
<p class="line">Fine is the breeze from the mountains.</p>
<p class="line">I wait for you to return,</p>
<p class="line">The games are prepared,</p>
<p class="line">Pa-poko, pa-loa, pa-lele,</p>
<p class="line">Leap away to Tahiti</p>
<p class="line">By the path to Nuumealani (home of the gods,)</p>
<p class="line">Will that lover (Ouha) return?</p>
<p class="line">I belong to Hono-kau-pu,</p>
<p class="line">From the top of the tossing surf waves.</p>
<p class="line">The eyes of the day and the night are forgotten.</p>
<p class="line">Kou has the large konane board.</p>
<p class="line">This is the day, and to-night</p>
<p class="line">The eyes meet at Kou.”</p>
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<div class="figure p054width"><ANTIMG src="images/p054.png" alt="Crab." width-obs="111" height-obs="84"></div>
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