<p><SPAN name="24"></SPAN></p>
<h2>DAMMARA AUSTRALIS</h2>
<p>One of the noblest evergreen trees in that noblest of
collections of such plants contained in the Temperate House at Kew,
is the subject of the present note. Some months since cones were
observed to be forming on this tree, and a representation of which
we are now enabled, through the courtesy of Mrs. Dyer, to lay
before our readers. We are not aware whether the tree has
previously produced cones at Kew, though we have the impression
that such is the case; at any rate it has done so elsewhere, as
recorded in the <i>Flore des Serres</i>, 1856, p. 75, but fertile
seed was not yielded, owing to the absence of pollen.</p>
<p>In this country the tree is only valuable for its massive aspect
and richly colored thick evergreen leaves, borne on successive
tiers of branches, which render it specially suitable for the
decoration of winter gardens, corridors, and such like situations,
where no great amount of heat is required. In the northern island
of New Zealand, however, it is quite another matter, for there,
where it is known as the Kauri Pine, it furnishes the most valuable
of timbers, as may be judged from the fact that the trunk of the
tree attains a height of from 50 to 100 feet clear of the branches;
moreover, it yields a gum resin like copal, which exudes from the
trunk, and which is sometimes found below ground in the vicinity of
the trees, thus giving the clew to the real nature of amber and
other similar substances.</p>
<p class="ctr"><SPAN href="./illustrations/16a.png"><ANTIMG src=
"./illustrations/16a_th.jpg" alt="THE KAURI PINE.--DAMMARA AUSTRALIS."></SPAN></p>
<p class="ctr">THE KAURI PINE.--DAMMARA AUSTRALIS.</p>
<p>The timber is of slow growth, especially valuable for the
construction of masts of ships, its durability, strength, and
elasticity rendering it particularly suitable for this purpose, and
Laslett speaks of it as one of the best woods for working that the
carpenter can take in hand, and recommends its use for the decks of
yachts, for cabin panels, for joiner's work generally, or for
ornamental purposes. Owing to the difficulty and expense of working
the forests, and the great distance, comparatively little of it
comes to this country.--<i>The London Gardeners' Chronicle</i>.</p>
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<h2>HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY TRANSPLANT TREES.</h2>
<p>Many think it cheaper and better to take up large trees from the
woods, and transplant them to their grounds or to the road-side,
than to buy nursery trees. As a rule, such trees die; they fail
because proper precautions have not been taken. In digging up a
tree, all the roots outside of a circle a few feet in diameter are
cut off, and the tree is reset with its full head of branches.
Whoever has seen trees in the forest that were upturned by a
tornado, must have been struck by the manner in which the roots run
very near to the surface, and to a great distance. When the roots
of these trees are cut off at two or three feet from the trunk, few
or no fibrous or feeding roots are left; and if the mass of tops is
left, the expansion of the buds in the spring will not be responded
to by a supply of sap from the roots, and death must follow. If
such trees have the tops completely removed, leaving only a bare
pole, they will usually grow when transplanted. The tree is little
more than an immense cutting; but there are roots enough left to
meet the demand of the few shoots that start from the top, and
growth above and below ground is well balanced.</p>
<p>We have seen maples, elms, and basswood trees, fifteen feet or
more high, transplanted in this manner, without failure. Some trees
treated in this manner were planted in our neighborhood about ten
years ago. They have now as fine heads as one would wish, and show
no signs of former rough treatment. Trees in pastures, or on the
edge of the woods, are better furnished with roots. These should be
prepared for transplanting by digging down to the roots, and
cutting off all that extended beyond the desired distance. This
will cause the formation of fibrous roots near the tree. It will be
safer to take two years for the operation, cutting half of the
roots each year. Such trees may be removed in safety, especially if
a good share of the top is removed at transplanting--<i>American
Agriculturist</i>.</p>
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