<h3>CHAPTER XIX</h3>
<h4 class="sc">Holland at Last</h4>
<div class="block2"><p class="noin">"No Intern"—Real Bread—Tipperary—A Real Time—The Splendid
Hollanders—The Hague.</p>
</div>
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<p>The diary summarizes the later events of that day:</p>
<p>"September tenth: Fine weather and in Holland. All our troubles are
over. We struck a small town called Alboom where the people did
everything they could for us. Plenty of food. Slept in a house!"</p>
<p>A man smoking a big pipe and wearing baggy breeches and wooden shoes
came up and surveyed us with kindly amusement, as Simmons scraped at
me with infinite gusto. He was a Hollander; not a "Dutchman." We soon
learned that the latter was a term of contempt applied by the former
to the Germans.</p>
<p>I asked him for some tobacco, which he readily gave to us from a
capacious pouch. He waved his pipe at us in friendly fashion and said
something <span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></SPAN></span>which we took to be a question as to our identity.</p>
<p>"English," we said, and in desperation turned to our scanty stock of
French: "<i>Soldats; prisoniers.</i>"</p>
<p>"Engelsch!" he boomed. We nodded. He simply threw his arms round first
one and then the other, so that I wiped the ashes from his pipe out of
my eyes. He lumbered off and shortly returned with a counterpart of
himself. He talked rapidly to his companion and waved his pipe. We
made out the words "Duitsch," "Engelsch," and enough of others to know
that he was telling our tale as he imagined it.</p>
<p>Our fears coming uppermost, we gave voice to them: "Intern?"</p>
<p>"No intern. Engelsch." The other took up the cry: "Engelsch goot!
Frient." However our suspicions would not down.</p>
<p>The first man pointed out to the canal where a barge lay and made us
understand that it was his. He wanted us to work our passage on it
down the canal with him. They invited us by signs to go on board the
barge for breakfast, an invitation which we joyfully accepted. We
rowed out to the barge and sat down in the tiny cabin. The meal was
plain. On the centre of the table was a loaf of brown bread, <span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></SPAN></span>quite
good enough it was true, but so reminiscent of the perennial black
ration of the Germans that my gorge rose at the sight. Out of the
corner of my eye I saw a white loaf on the shelf, the first in fifteen
months. I caught Simmons eyeing it. We exchanged guilty looks but were
ashamed to ask for it. They offered us the brown loaf and delicious
coffee. I thought perhaps that if we exhausted the brown loaf the
other might be forthcoming. I kicked Simmons on the shins and fell to
on it, and, as opportunity offered, thrust pieces in the pockets of my
tunic until, to our relief, they brought out the white bread, which we
devoured to the last crumb. It was very good.</p>
<p>We filled our pipes in high contentment and went ashore, where a
procession of enthusiastic villagers waited to escort us to the
village. Men, women and children, wooden shoes and all, there were
four hundred of them. The men all shook hands and pressed money on us.
The women cried and one white-haired old lady kissed us both. The
quaint little roly-poly children ran at our sides, a half dozen of
them struggling to hold our fingers in their chubby fists.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></SPAN></span>The procession started off, the burgomaster leading, the two sailors
and ourselves coming next. Some one behind dragged out a mouth organ
and struck up Tipperary, and men, women and children all joined in. It
was glorious. We sang, too, in English, and they in their tongue. The
result was so ridiculous a medley that I smiled myself; but it made no
difference. The spirit was there; we were happy.</p>
<p>Arriving at the village the burgomaster took us to his home and sat us
down to a steaming breakfast, while a few of the chosen were invited
in to watch us polish it off. The crowd remained outside, choking the
road. Some of the bolder of the children crept slyly in the door,
others peered shyly at us from the crack of it. And one little chap,
braver than his comrades, clumped sturdily up to my knee, where he
stood clutching it in round-eyed wonder and saying never a word for
the rest of the meal, envied of his mates.</p>
<p>Not until we had leaned back, not contented, but ashamed to ask for
more, did our hosts give vent to the curiosity that was eating into
their vitals. An interpreter was found and they led us out to the
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></SPAN></span>road so that all might hear. The crowd flocked around while the
officials questioned us. Many were the smothered interjections that
went up from the men and exclamations of pity from the women as our
tale unfolded. And the warm sympathy of their honest faces warmed our
hearts like a good fire.</p>
<p>We started off on our triumphal course again. We were repeatedly
invited into houses for something to eat. We accepted seven such
breakfast invitations during the next two and a half hours and stopped
only out of shame. We were still hungry. Every one gave us cigars,
immense things, which projected from every pocket and which we carried
in bundles under our arms. There was no refusing them. They were the
insignia of the entente. And the coffee! The good, honest, Holland
coffee with no acorns in it! I doubt if our starving bodies could have
carried us many days more on the uncooked roots we had been living on.
The motherly housewives, in their Grecian-like helmets of metal and
glass that fit closely over their smoothed hair like skull-caps,
bustled merrily about, intent only on replenishing our plates and
cups, full of a tearful sympathy which was as welcome as their food.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></SPAN></span>Later in the day the officials took us to the police station at ——.
We became very much alarmed again. They read our thoughts and a
subdued murmur of: "No intern, no intern," swelled up. The local
burgomaster came to us. His first words, and in good English, too,
were: "Have something to eat." We did. And then more cigars. The
police were a splendid lot of men. They loaded us down with gifts and
asked perfunctory questions for their records. One of them, H. Letema,
of ——, took us to his home, where his comely wife and daughter
loaded the table with good things; while he brought out more cigars.
He showed us to a bed-room before we understood where he was taking
us. We refused, for reasons of a purely personal nature. "Nix," we
said, and when he would not accept our refusal we tried it in
Niederländer. "No, no." Still he persisted, and his good wife too. So
we led him firmly aside and showed him the indescribably verminous
condition we were in. That convinced him. They appreciated that little
touch and gave us a deep pile of blankets, flung down on three feet of
sweet-smelling straw in an outhouse, where we slept as we had not
slept for many months.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></SPAN></span>In the morning Letema escorted us down to Aaschen, which was the
nearest large town. A Belgian and a Holland lady, hearing of the
escaped English prisoners, met us within twenty minutes of our
arrival, took us in hand and loaded us down with kindnesses. We ate
only five full sized meals that day, not counting the extras we
absorbed between them. And there were more cigars. The raw oats and
potatoes seemed a long way off.</p>
<p>Our day at Aaschen was a repetition of the previous one at Alboom and
Borger, but on a grander scale. The ladies took us down to Rotterdam
and did not leave us until they had turned us over to the British
consul there, whose name I have forgotten but who, with the vice
consul, Mr. Mueller, was very kind indeed; in fact, all whom we met,
irrespective of their nationality, age or sex placed us under eternal
obligations to them. In particular Mr. Neilson, the rector of the
English church and in charge of the Sailors' Institute there, seemed
to live only for us.</p>
<p>Mr. Henken at the American consulate was equally kind. They lodged us
at the Seaman's Rest, took our painted rags away and clothed us in
blue <span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></SPAN></span>"civvie" suits which seemed to us the height of sinful luxury.
We were shaved, clean and could eat everything in sight, at any time
of the day or night. And did so. The meals we used to shift! We were
very glad to get rid of our waterproof suits—for that is what they
had become, from the paint.</p>
<p>Mr. Neilson took us sight seeing every day. Once we went out to Mr.
Carnegie's Peace Palace which had been closed on account of the war
but which we were permitted to inspect. I had not thought such
buildings were done, except in dreams. It made our own bitter past
seem unreal. The Italian room, in particular, seemed like a delicate
canvas in marble and done in a fashion the memory of which gripped me
for days and still haunts me. We spent days thus; supremely happy.</p>
<p>We were joined here by Jerry Burke of the 8th Battalion of Winnipeg.
He was a nephew of Sir Sam Hughes, the then Canadian Minister of
Militia and had just made his escape from some other camp.</p>
<p>We were to have left on the fifth with a fleet of boats which sailed
then. By the time we had got on board, however, the sailors from the
first boat were <span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></SPAN></span>returning. They had been torpedoed. And that stopped
us.</p>
<p>We got away on the S.S. <i>Grenadier</i> on the sixteenth, and after
hugging the length of the English Coast, arrived safely at
Newcastle-upon-Tyne on the eighteenth.</p>
<p>Here our troubles began!</p>
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<SPAN name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></SPAN><hr />
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></SPAN></span><br/>
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