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<h2> CHAPTER II—HOUGOMONT </h2>
<p>Hougomont,—this was a funereal spot, the beginning of the obstacle,
the first resistance, which that great wood-cutter of Europe, called
Napoleon, encountered at Waterloo, the first knot under the blows of his
axe.</p>
<p>It was a chateau; it is no longer anything but a farm. For the antiquary,
Hougomont is Hugomons. This manor was built by Hugo, Sire of Somerel, the
same who endowed the sixth chaplaincy of the Abb�y of Villiers.</p>
<p>The traveller pushed open the door, elbowed an ancient calash under the
porch, and entered the courtyard.</p>
<p>The first thing which struck him in this paddock was a door of the
sixteenth century, which here simulates an arcade, everything else having
fallen prostrate around it. A monumental aspect often has its birth in
ruin. In a wall near the arcade opens another arched door, of the time of
Henry IV., permitting a glimpse of the trees of an orchard; beside this
door, a manure-hole, some pickaxes, some shovels, some carts, an old well,
with its flagstone and its iron reel, a chicken jumping, and a turkey
spreading its tail, a chapel surmounted by a small bell-tower, a
blossoming pear-tree trained in espalier against the wall of the chapel—behold
the court, the conquest of which was one of Napoleon's dreams. This corner
of earth, could he but have seized it, would, perhaps, have given him the
world likewise. Chickens are scattering its dust abroad with their beaks.
A growl is audible; it is a huge dog, who shows his teeth and replaces the
English.</p>
<p>The English behaved admirably there. Cooke's four companies of guards
there held out for seven hours against the fury of an army.</p>
<p>Hougomont viewed on the map, as a geometrical plan, comprising buildings
and enclosures, presents a sort of irregular rectangle, one angle of which
is nicked out. It is this angle which contains the southern door, guarded
by this wall, which commands it only a gun's length away. Hougomont has
two doors,—the southern door, that of the chateau; and the northern
door, belonging to the farm. Napoleon sent his brother Jerome against
Hougomont; the divisions of Foy, Guilleminot, and Bachelu hurled
themselves against it; nearly the entire corps of Reille was employed
against it, and miscarried; Kellermann's balls were exhausted on this
heroic section of wall. Bauduin's brigade was not strong enough to force
Hougomont on the north, and the brigade of Soye could not do more than
effect the beginning of a breach on the south, but without taking it.</p>
<p>The farm buildings border the courtyard on the south. A bit of the north
door, broken by the French, hangs suspended to the wall. It consists of
four planks nailed to two cross-beams, on which the scars of the attack
are visible.</p>
<p>The northern door, which was beaten in by the French, and which has had a
piece applied to it to replace the panel suspended on the wall, stands
half-open at the bottom of the paddock; it is cut squarely in the wall,
built of stone below, of brick above which closes in the courtyard on the
north. It is a simple door for carts, such as exist in all farms, with the
two large leaves made of rustic planks: beyond lie the meadows. The
dispute over this entrance was furious. For a long time, all sorts of
imprints of bloody hands were visible on the door-posts. It was there that
Bauduin was killed.</p>
<p>The storm of the combat still lingers in this courtyard; its horror is
visible there; the confusion of the fray was petrified there; it lives and
it dies there; it was only yesterday. The walls are in the death agony,
the stones fall; the breaches cry aloud; the holes are wounds; the
drooping, quivering trees seem to be making an effort to flee.</p>
<p>This courtyard was more built up in 1815 than it is to-day. Buildings
which have since been pulled down then formed redans and angles.</p>
<p>The English barricaded themselves there; the French made their way in, but
could not stand their ground. Beside the chapel, one wing of the chateau,
the only ruin now remaining of the manor of Hougomont, rises in a
crumbling state,—disembowelled, one might say. The chateau served
for a dungeon, the chapel for a block-house. There men exterminated each
other. The French, fired on from every point,—from behind the walls,
from the summits of the garrets, from the depths of the cellars, through
all the casements, through all the air-holes, through every crack in the
stones,—fetched fagots and set fire to walls and men; the reply to
the grape-shot was a conflagration.</p>
<p>In the ruined wing, through windows garnished with bars of iron, the
dismantled chambers of the main building of brick are visible; the English
guards were in ambush in these rooms; the spiral of the staircase, cracked
from the ground floor to the very roof, appears like the inside of a
broken shell. The staircase has two stories; the English, besieged on the
staircase, and massed on its upper steps, had cut off the lower steps.
These consisted of large slabs of blue stone, which form a heap among the
nettles. Half a score of steps still cling to the wall; on the first is
cut the figure of a trident. These inaccessible steps are solid in their
niches. All the rest resembles a jaw which has been denuded of its teeth.
There are two old trees there: one is dead; the other is wounded at its
base, and is clothed with verdure in April. Since 1815 it has taken to
growing through the staircase.</p>
<p>A massacre took place in the chapel. The interior, which has recovered its
calm, is singular. The mass has not been said there since the carnage.
Nevertheless, the altar has been left there—an altar of unpolished
wood, placed against a background of roughhewn stone. Four whitewashed
walls, a door opposite the altar, two small arched windows; over the door
a large wooden crucifix, below the crucifix a square air-hole stopped up
with a bundle of hay; on the ground, in one corner, an old window-frame
with the glass all broken to pieces—such is the chapel. Near the
altar there is nailed up a wooden statue of Saint Anne, of the fifteenth
century; the head of the infant Jesus has been carried off by a large
ball. The French, who were masters of the chapel for a moment, and were
then dislodged, set fire to it. The flames filled this building; it was a
perfect furnace; the door was burned, the floor was burned, the wooden
Christ was not burned. The fire preyed upon his feet, of which only the
blackened stumps are now to be seen; then it stopped,—a miracle,
according to the assertion of the people of the neighborhood. The infant
Jesus, decapitated, was less fortunate than the Christ.</p>
<p>The walls are covered with inscriptions. Near the feet of Christ this name
is to be read: Henquinez. Then these others: Conde de Rio Maior Marques y
Marquesa de Almagro (Habana). There are French names with exclamation
points,—a sign of wrath. The wall was freshly whitewashed in 1849.
The nations insulted each other there.</p>
<p>It was at the door of this chapel that the corpse was picked up which held
an axe in its hand; this corpse was Sub-Lieutenant Legros.</p>
<p>On emerging from the chapel, a well is visible on the left. There are two
in this courtyard. One inquires, Why is there no bucket and pulley to
this? It is because water is no longer drawn there. Why is water not drawn
there? Because it is full of skeletons.</p>
<p>The last person who drew water from the well was named Guillaume van
Kylsom. He was a peasant who lived at Hougomont, and was gardener there.
On the 18th of June, 1815, his family fled and concealed themselves in the
woods.</p>
<p>The forest surrounding the Abb�y of Villiers sheltered these unfortunate
people who had been scattered abroad, for many days and nights. There are
at this day certain traces recognizable, such as old boles of burned
trees, which mark the site of these poor bivouacs trembling in the depths
of the thickets.</p>
<p>Guillaume van Kylsom remained at Hougomont, "to guard the chateau," and
concealed himself in the cellar. The English discovered him there. They
tore him from his hiding-place, and the combatants forced this frightened
man to serve them, by administering blows with the flats of their swords.
They were thirsty; this Guillaume brought them water. It was from this
well that he drew it. Many drank there their last draught. This well where
drank so many of the dead was destined to die itself.</p>
<p>After the engagement, they were in haste to bury the dead bodies. Death
has a fashion of harassing victory, and she causes the pest to follow
glory. The typhus is a concomitant of triumph. This well was deep, and it
was turned into a sepulchre. Three hundred dead bodies were cast into it.
With too much haste perhaps. Were they all dead? Legend says they were
not. It seems that on the night succeeding the interment, feeble voices
were heard calling from the well.</p>
<p>This well is isolated in the middle of the courtyard. Three walls, part
stone, part brick, and simulating a small, square tower, and folded like
the leaves of a screen, surround it on all sides. The fourth side is open.
It is there that the water was drawn. The wall at the bottom has a sort of
shapeless loophole, possibly the hole made by a shell. This little tower
had a platform, of which only the beams remain. The iron supports of the
well on the right form a cross. On leaning over, the eye is lost in a deep
cylinder of brick which is filled with a heaped-up mass of shadows. The
base of the walls all about the well is concealed in a growth of nettles.</p>
<p>This well has not in front of it that large blue slab which forms the
table for all wells in Belgium. The slab has here been replaced by a
cross-beam, against which lean five or six shapeless fragments of knotty
and petrified wood which resemble huge bones. There is no longer either
pail, chain, or pulley; but there is still the stone basin which served
the overflow. The rain-water collects there, and from time to time a bird
of the neighboring forests comes thither to drink, and then flies away.
One house in this ruin, the farmhouse, is still inhabited. The door of
this house opens on the courtyard. Upon this door, beside a pretty Gothic
lock-plate, there is an iron handle with trefoils placed slanting. At the
moment when the Hanoverian lieutenant, Wilda, grasped this handle in order
to take refuge in the farm, a French sapper hewed off his hand with an
axe.</p>
<p>The family who occupy the house had for their grandfather Guillaume van
Kylsom, the old gardener, dead long since. A woman with gray hair said to
us: "I was there. I was three years old. My sister, who was older, was
terrified and wept. They carried us off to the woods. I went there in my
mother's arms. We glued our ears to the earth to hear. I imitated the
cannon, and went boum! boum!"</p>
<p>A door opening from the courtyard on the left led into the orchard, so we
were told. The orchard is terrible.</p>
<p>It is in three parts; one might almost say, in three acts. The first part
is a garden, the second is an orchard, the third is a wood. These three
parts have a common enclosure: on the side of the entrance, the buildings
of the chateau and the farm; on the left, a hedge; on the right, a wall;
and at the end, a wall. The wall on the right is of brick, the wall at the
bottom is of stone. One enters the garden first. It slopes downwards, is
planted with gooseberry bushes, choked with a wild growth of vegetation,
and terminated by a monumental terrace of cut stone, with balustrade with
a double curve.</p>
<p>It was a seignorial garden in the first French style which preceded Le
Notre; to-day it is ruins and briars. The pilasters are surmounted by
globes which resemble cannon-balls of stone. Forty-three balusters can
still be counted on their sockets; the rest lie prostrate in the grass.
Almost all bear scratches of bullets. One broken baluster is placed on the
pediment like a fractured leg.</p>
<p>It was in this garden, further down than the orchard, that six
light-infantry men of the 1st, having made their way thither, and being
unable to escape, hunted down and caught like bears in their dens,
accepted the combat with two Hanoverian companies, one of which was armed
with carbines. The Hanoverians lined this balustrade and fired from above.
The infantry men, replying from below, six against two hundred, intrepid
and with no shelter save the currant-bushes, took a quarter of an hour to
die.</p>
<p>One mounts a few steps and passes from the garden into the orchard,
properly speaking. There, within the limits of those few square fathoms,
fifteen hundred men fell in less than an hour. The wall seems ready to
renew the combat. Thirty-eight loopholes, pierced by the English at
irregular heights, are there still. In front of the sixth are placed two
English tombs of granite. There are loopholes only in the south wall, as
the principal attack came from that quarter. The wall is hidden on the
outside by a tall hedge; the French came up, thinking that they had to
deal only with a hedge, crossed it, and found the wall both an obstacle
and an ambuscade, with the English guards behind it, the thirty-eight
loopholes firing at once a shower of grape-shot and balls, and Soye's
brigade was broken against it. Thus Waterloo began.</p>
<p>Nevertheless, the orchard was taken. As they had no ladders, the French
scaled it with their nails. They fought hand to hand amid the trees. All
this grass has been soaked in blood. A battalion of Nassau, seven hundred
strong, was overwhelmed there. The outside of the wall, against which
Kellermann's two batteries were trained, is gnawed by grape-shot.</p>
<p>This orchard is sentient, like others, in the month of May. It has its
buttercups and its daisies; the grass is tall there; the cart-horses
browse there; cords of hair, on which linen is drying, traverse the spaces
between the trees and force the passer-by to bend his head; one walks over
this uncultivated land, and one's foot dives into mole-holes. In the
middle of the grass one observes an uprooted tree-bole which lies there
all verdant. Major Blackmann leaned against it to die. Beneath a great
tree in the neighborhood fell the German general, Duplat, descended from a
French family which fled on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. An aged
and falling apple-tree leans far over to one side, its wound dressed with
a bandage of straw and of clayey loam. Nearly all the apple-trees are
falling with age. There is not one which has not had its bullet or its
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The skeletons of dead trees abound in this orchard. Crows fly through
their branches, and at the end of it is a wood full of violets.</p>
<p>Bauduin, killed, Foy wounded, conflagration, massacre, carnage, a rivulet
formed of English blood, French blood, German blood mingled in fury, a
well crammed with corpses, the regiment of Nassau and the regiment of
Brunswick destroyed, Duplat killed, Blackmann killed, the English Guards
mutilated, twenty French battalions, besides the forty from Reille's
corps, decimated, three thousand men in that hovel of Hougomont alone cut
down, slashed to pieces, shot, burned, with their throats cut,—and
all this so that a peasant can say to-day to the traveller: Monsieur, give
me three francs, and if you like, I will explain to you the affair of
Waterloo!</p>
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