<h2><SPAN name="XXI" id="XXI"></SPAN>XXI</h2>
<p>How shall I render certain other impressions coming back to me from that
summer, which were doubtless involved in my having still for a time, on
the alternate days when my complaint was active, to lie up on various
couches and, for my main comfort, consider the situation? I considered
it best, I think, gathering in the fruits of a quickened sensibility to
it, in certain umbrageous apartments in which my parents had settled
themselves near Geneva; an old house, in ample grounds and among great
spreading trees that pleasantly brushed our windows in the summer heats
and airs, known, if I am not mistaken, as the Campagne Gerebsoff—which
its mistress, an invalid Russian lady, had partly placed at our
disposition while she reclined in her own quarter of the garden, on a
chaise longue and under a mushroom hat with a green veil, and I, in the
course of the mild excursions appointed as my limit, considered her from
afar in the light of the legends supplied to me, as to her identity,
history, general practices and proceedings, by my younger brother Wilky,
who, according to his nature, or I may say to his genius,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></SPAN></span> had made
without loss of time great advances of acquaintance with her and
quickened thereby my sense of his superior talent for life. Wilky's age
followed closely on mine, and from that time on we conversed and
consorted, though with lapses and disparities; I being on the whole,
during the succession of those years, in the grateful, the really
fortunate position of having one exposure, rather the northward, as it
were, to the view of W. J., and the other, perhaps the more immediately
sunned surface, to the genial glow of my junior. Of this I shall have
more to say, but to meet in memory meanwhile even this early flicker of
him is to know again something of the sense that I attached all along
our boyhood to his successful sociability, his instinct for intercourse,
his genius (as I have used the word) for making friends. It was the only
genius he had, declaring itself from his tenderest years, never knowing
the shadow of defeat, and giving me, above all, from as far back and by
the very radiation of the fact, endlessly much to think of. For I had in
a manner, thanks to the radiation, much of the benefit; his geniality
was absolutely such that the friends he made were made almost less for
himself, so to speak, than for other friends—of whom indeed we, his own
adjuncts, were easily first—so far at least as he discriminated. At
night all cats are grey, and in this brother's easy view all his
acquaintance<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_288" id="Page_288"></SPAN></span> were his family. The trail of his sociability was over us
all alike—though it here concerns me but to the effect, as I recover
it, of its weight on my comparatively so indirect faculty for what is
called taking life. I must have already at the Campagne Gerebsoff begun
to see him take it with all his directness—begun in fact to be a trifle
tormentedly aware that, though there might be many ways of so doing, we
are condemned practically to a choice, not made free of them all;
reduced to the use of but one, at the best, which it is to our interest
to make the most of, since we may indeed sometimes make much. There was
a small sad charm, I should doubtless add, in this operation of the
contrast of the case before me with my own case; it was positively as if
Wilky's were supplying me on occasion with the most immediate matter for
my own. That was particularly marked after he had, with our elder
brother, been placed at school, the Pensionnat Roediger, at Châtelaine,
then much esteemed and where I was supposedly to join them on my
complete recovery: I recall sociable, irrepressibly sociable <i>sorties</i>
thence on the part of the pair as promptly breaking out, not less than I
recall sociable afternoon visits to the establishment on the part of the
rest of us: it was my brothers' first boarding school, but as we had in
the New York conditions kept punctually rejoining our family, so in
these<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></SPAN></span> pleasant Genevese ones our family returned the attention. Of this
also more anon; my particular point is just the wealth of Wilky's
contribution to my rich current consciousness—the consciousness fairly
<i>made</i> rich by my taking in, as aforesaid, at reflective hours, hours
when I was in a manner alone with it, our roomy and shadowy, our almost
haunted interior.</p>
<p>Admirable the scale and solidity, in general, of the ancient villas
planted about Geneva, and our house affected me as so massive and so
spacious that even our own half of it seemed vast. I had never before
lived so long in anything so old and, as I somehow felt, so deep; depth,
depth upon depth, was what came out for me at certain times of my
waiting above, in my immense room of thick embrasures and rather prompt
obscurity, while the summer afternoon waned and my companions, often
below at dinner, lingered and left me just perhaps a bit overwhelmed.
That was the sense of it—the <i>character</i>, in the whole place, pressed
upon me with a force I hadn't met and that was beyond my analysis—which
is but another way of saying how directly notified I felt that such
material conditions as I <i>had</i> known could have had no depth at all. My
depth was a vague measure, no doubt, but it made space, in the twilight,
for an occasional small sound of voice or step from the garden or the
rooms of which the<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></SPAN></span> great homely, the opaque green shutters opened there
softly to echo in—mixed with reverberations finer and more momentous,
personal, experimental, if they might be called so; which I much
encouraged (they borrowed such tone from our new surrounding medium) and
half of which were reducible to Wilky's personalities and Wilky's
experience: these latter, irrepressibly communicated, being ever,
enviably, though a trifle bewilderingly and even formidably, <i>of</i>
personalities. There was the difference and the opposition, as I really
believe I was already aware—that one way of taking life was to go in
for everything and everyone, which kept you abundantly occupied, and the
other way was to be as occupied, quite as occupied, just with the sense
and the image of it all, and on only a fifth of the actual immersion: a
circumstance extremely strange. Life was taken almost equally both
ways—that, I mean, seemed the strangeness; mere brute quantity and
number being so much less in one case than the other. These latter were
what I should have <i>liked</i> to go in for, had I but had the intrinsic
faculties; that more than ever came home to me on those occasions when,
as I could move further and stay out longer, I accompanied my parents on
afternoon visits to Châtelaine and the Campagne Roediger, a scene that
has remained with me as nobly placid and pastoral. The great trees stood
about, <span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></SPAN></span>casting afternoon shadows; the old thick-walled green-shuttered
villa and its dépendances had the air of the happiest home; the big
bearded bonhomie of M. Roediger among his little polyglot charges—no
petits pays chauds these—appeared to justify, and more, the fond New
York theory of Swiss education, the kind <i>à la portée</i> of young New
Yorkers, as a beautifully genialised, humanised, civilised, even
romanticised thing, in which, amid lawny mountain slopes, "the
languages" flowed into so many beaming recipients on a stream of milk
and honey, and "the relation," above all, the relation from master to
pupil and back again, was of an amenity that wouldn't have been of this
world save for the providential arrangement of a perfect pedagogic
Switzerland. "Did you notice the relation—how charming it was?" our
parents were apt to say to each other after these visits, in reference
to some observed show of confidence between instructor and instructed;
while, as for myself, I was lost in the wonder of <i>all</i> the
relations—my younger brother seemed to live, and to his own ingenuous
relish as well, in such a happy hum of them. The languages had reason to
prosper—they were so copiously represented; the English jostled the
American, the Russian the German, and there even trickled through a
little funny French.</p>
<p>A great Geneva school of those days was the<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_292" id="Page_292"></SPAN></span> Institution Haccius, to
which generations of our young countrymen had been dedicated and our own
faces first turned—under correction, however, by the perceived truth
that if the languages were in question the American reigned there almost
unchallenged. The establishment chosen for our experiment must have
appealed by some intimate and insinuating side, and as less patronised
by the rich and the sophisticated—for even in those days some Americans
were rich and several sophisticated; little indeed as it was all to
matter in the event, so short a course had the experiment just then to
run. What it mainly brings back to me is the fine old candour and
queerness of the New York state of mind, begotten really not a little, I
think, under our own roof, by the mere charmed perusal of Rodolphe
Toeppfer's Voyages en Zigzag, the two goodly octavo volumes of which
delightful work, an adorable book, taken with its illustrations, had
come out early in the 'fifties and had engaged our fondest study. It is
the copious chronicle, by a schoolmaster o£ endless humour and
sympathy—of what degree and form of "authority" it never occurred to
one even to ask—of his holiday excursions with his pupils, mainly on
foot and with staff and knapsack, through the incomparable Switzerland
of the time before the railways and the "rush," before the monster
hotels, the desecrated summits, the vulgarised <span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></SPAN></span>valleys, the circular
tours, the perforating tubes, the funiculars, the hordes, the horrors.
To turn back to Toeppfer's pages to-day is to get the sense of a lost
paradise, and the effect for me even yet of having pored over them in my
childhood is to steep in sweetness and quaintness some of the
pictures—his own illustrations are of the pleasantest and drollest, and
the association makes that faded Swiss master of landscape Calame, of
the so-called calamités, a quite sufficient Ruysdael. It must have been
conceived for us that we would lead in these conditions—always in
pursuit of an education—a life not too dissimilar to that of the
storied exiles in the forest of Arden; though one would fain not press,
after all, upon ideals of culture so little organised, so little
conscious, up to that moment, of our ferocities of comparison and
competition, of imposed preparation. This particular loose ideal reached
out from the desert—or what might under discouragement pass for such;
it invoked the light, but a simplicity of view which was somehow one
with the beauty of other convictions accompanied its effort; and though
a glance at the social "psychology" of some of its cheerful estimates,
its relative importances, assumed and acted upon, might here seem
indicated, there are depths of the ancient serenity that nothing would
induce me to sound.</p>
<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>I need linger the less, moreover, since we in fact, oddly enough,
lingered so little; so very little, for reasons doubtless well known to
ourselves at the time but which I at present fail to recapture, that
what next stands vividly out for me is our renewed passage through Paris
on the way to London for the winter; a turn of our situation invested at
the time with nothing whatever of the wonderful, yet which would again
half prompt me to soundings were I not to recognise in it that mark of
the fitful, that accent of the improvised, that general quality of
earnest and reasoned, yet at the same time almost passionate, impatience
which was to devote us for some time to variety, almost to incoherency,
of interest. We had fared across the sea under the glamour of the Swiss
school in the abstract, but the Swiss school in the concrete soon turned
stale on our hands; a fact over which I remember myself as no further
critical than to feel, not without zest, that, since one was all eyes
and the world decidedly, at such a pace, all images, it ministered to
the panoramic. It ministered, to begin with, through our very early
start for Lyons again in the October dawn—without Nadali or the
carriages this time, but on the basis of the malle-poste, vast, yellow
and rumbling, which we availed wholly to fill and of which the high
haughtiness was such that it could stop, even for an instant, only at
appointed and<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></SPAN></span> much dissevered places—to the effect, I recall, of its
vainly attempted arrest by our cousin Charlotte King, beforementioned,
whom I see now suddenly emerge, fresh, confident and pretty, from some
rural retreat by the road, a scene of simple villeggiatura, "rien que
pour saluer ces dames," as she pleaded to the conductor; whom she
practically, if not permittedly, overmastered, leaving with me still the
wonder of her happy fusion of opposites. The coach had not, in the
event, paused, but so neither had she, and as it ignored flush and
flurry quite as it defied delay, she was equally a match for it in these
particulars, blandly achieving her visit to us while it rumbled on,
making a perfect success and a perfect grace of her idea. She dropped as
elegantly out as she had gymnastically floated in, and "ces dames" must
much have wished they could emulate her art. Save for this my view of
that migration has faded, though to shine out again to the sense of our
early morning arrival in Paris a couple of days later, and our hunt
there, vain at first, for an hotel that would put us numerously up; vain
till we had sat awhile, in the Rue du Helder, I think, before that of an
Albany uncle, luckily on the scene and finally invoked, who after some
delay descended to us with a very foreign air, I fancied, and no
possibility, to his regret, of placing us under his own roof; as if
indeed, I remember reflecting, we<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></SPAN></span> could, such as we were, have been
desired to share his foreign interests—such as <i>they</i> were. He espoused
our cause, however, with gay goodnature—while I wondered, in my
admiration for him and curiosity about him, how he really liked us, and
(a bit doubtfully) whether I should have liked us had I been in his
place; and after some further adventure installed us at the Hôtel de la
Ville de Paris in the Rue de la Ville-l'Evèque, a resort now long since
extinct, though it lingered on for some years, and which I think of as
rather huddled and disappointingly private, to the abatement of
spectacle, and standing obliquely beyond a wall, a high gateway and a
more or less cobbled court.</p>
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<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></SPAN></span></p>
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