<h2><SPAN name="XXII" id="XXII"></SPAN>XXII</h2>
<p>Little else of that Parisian passage remains with me—it was probably of
the briefest; I recover only a visit with my father to the Palais de
l'Industrie, where the first of the great French Exhibitions, on the
model, much reduced, of the English Crystal Palace of 1851, was still
open, a fact explaining the crowded inns; and from that visit win back
but the department of the English pictures and our stopping long before
The Order of Release of a young English painter, J. E. Millais, who had
just leaped into fame, and my impression of the rare treatment of whose
baby's bare legs, pendent from its mother's arms, is still as vivid to
me as if from yesterday. The vivid yields again to the vague—I scarce
know why so utterly—till consciousness, waking up in London, renews
itself, late one evening and very richly, at the Gloucester Hotel (or
Coffee-House, as I think it was then still called,) which occupied that
corner of Piccadilly and Berkeley Street where more modern
establishments have since succeeded it, but where a fatigued and
famished American family found on that occasion a fine old British
virtue in cold roast beef and bread<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></SPAN></span> and cheese and ale; their expert
acclamation of which echoes even now in my memory. It keeps company
there with other matters equally British and, as we say now, early
Victorian; the thick gloom of the inn rooms, the faintness of the
glimmering tapers, the blest inexhaustibility of the fine joint,
surpassed only by that of the grave waiter's reserve—plain, immutably
plain fare all, but prompting in our elders an emphasis of relief and
relish, the "There's nothing like it after all!" tone, which re-excited
expectation, which in fact seemed this time to re-announce a basis for
faith and joy.</p>
<p>That basis presently shrank to the scale of a small house hard by the
hotel, at the entrance of Berkeley Square—expeditiously lighted on, it
would thus appear, which again has been expensively superseded, but to
the ancient little facts of which I fondly revert, since I owe them what
I feel to have been, in the far past, the prime faint revelation, the
small broken expression, of the London I was afterwards to know. The
place wears on the spot, to this day, no very different face; the house
that has risen on the site of ours is still immediately neighboured at
the left by the bookseller, the circulating-librarian and news-agent,
who modestly flourished in our time under the same name; the great
establishment of Mr. Gunter, just further along, is as soberly and<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></SPAN></span>
solidly seated; the mews behind the whole row, from the foot of Hay Hill
at the right, wanders away to Bruton Street with the irregular grace
that spoke to my young fancy; Hay Hill itself is somehow less sharply
precipitous, besides being no longer paved, as I seem to recall its
having been, with big boulders, and I was on the point of saying that
its antique charm in some degree abides. Nothing, however, could be
further from the truth; its antique charm quite succumbed, years ago, to
that erection of lumpish "mansions" which followed the demolition of the
old-world town-residence, as the house-agents say, standing, on the
south side, between court and I suppose garden, where Dover Street gives
way to Grafton; a house of many histories, of vague importances and cold
reserves and deep suggestions, I used to think after scaling the steep
quite on purpose to wonder about it. A whole chapter of life was
condensed, for our young sensibility, I make out, into the couple of
months—they can scarce have been more—spent by us in these quarters,
which must have proved too narrow and too towny; but it can have had no
passage so lively as the occurrences at once sequent to my father's
having too candidly made known in some public print, probably The Times,
that an American gentleman, at such an address, desired to arrange with
a competent young man for the tuition at home of his<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></SPAN></span> three sons. The
effect of his rash failure to invite application by letter only was the
assault of an army of visitors who filled us with consternation; they
hung about the door, cumbered the hall, choked the staircase and sat
grimly individual in odd corners. How they were dealt with, given my
father's precipitate and general charity, I can but feebly imagine; our
own concern, in the event, was with a sole selected presence, that of
Scotch Mr. Robert Thompson, who gave us his care from breakfast to
luncheon each morning that winter, who afterwards carried on a school at
Edinburgh, and whom, in years long subsequent, I happened to help R. L.
Stevenson to recognise gaily as <i>his</i> early pedagogue. He was so deeply
solicitous, yet withal so mild and kind and shy, with no harsher
injunction to us ever than "Come now, be getting on!" that one could but
think well of a world in which so gentle a spirit might flourish; while
it is doubtless to the credit of his temper that remembrance is a blank
in respect to his closer ministrations. I recall vividly his fresh
complexion, his very round clear eyes, his tendency to trip over his own
legs or feet while thoughtfully circling about us, and his constant
dress-coat, worn with trousers of a lighter hue, which was perhaps the
prescribed uniform of a daily tutor then; but I ask myself in vain what
I can have "studied" with him, there remaining<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_301" id="Page_301"></SPAN></span> with me afterwards, to
testify—this putting any scrap of stored learning aside—no single
textbook save the Lambs' Tales from Shakespeare, which was given me as
(of all things in the world) a reward. A reward for what I am again at a
loss to say—not certainly for having "got on" to anything like the tune
plaintively, for the most part, piped to me. It is a very odd and yet to
myself very rich and full reminiscence, though I remember how, looking
back at it from after days, W. J. denounced it to me, and with it the
following year and more spent in Paris, as a poor and arid and
lamentable time, in which, missing such larger chances and connections
as we might have reached out to, we had done nothing, he and I, but walk
about together, in a state of the direst propriety, little "high" black
hats and inveterate gloves, the childish costume of the place and
period, to stare at grey street-scenery (that of early Victorian London
had tones of a neutrality!) dawdle at shop-windows and buy water-colours
and brushes with which to bedaub eternal drawing-blocks. We might, I
dare say, have felt higher impulses and carried out larger plans—though
indeed present to me for this, on my brother's so expressing himself, is
my then quick recognition of the deeper stirrings and braver needs he at
least must have known, and my perfect if rueful sense of having myself
had no such<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_302" id="Page_302"></SPAN></span> quarrel with our conditions: embalmed for me did they even
to that shorter retrospect appear in a sort of fatalism of patience,
spiritless in a manner, no doubt, yet with an inwardly active,
productive and ingenious side.</p>
<p>It was just the fact of our having so walked and dawdled and dodged that
made the charm of memory; in addition to which what could one have asked
more than to be steeped in a medium so dense that whole elements of it,
forms of amusement, interest and wonder, soaked through to some
appreciative faculty and made one fail at the most of nothing but one's
lessons? My brother was right in so far as that my question—the one I
have just reproduced—could have been asked only by a person
incorrigible in throwing himself back upon substitutes for lost causes,
substitutes that might <i>temporarily</i> have appeared queer and small; a
person so haunted, even from an early age, with visions of life, that
aridities, for him, were half a terror and half an impossibility, and
that the said substitutes, the economies and ingenuities that protested,
in their dumb vague way, against weakness of situation or of direct and
applied faculty, were in themselves really a revel of spirit and
thought. It <i>had</i> indeed again an effect of almost pathetic incoherence
that our brave quest of "the languages," suffering so prompt and for the
time at least so<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_303" id="Page_303"></SPAN></span> accepted and now so inscrutably irrecoverable a check,
should have contented itself with settling us by that Christmas in a
house, more propitious to our development, in St. John's Wood, where we
enjoyed a considerable garden and wistful view, though by that windowed
privilege alone, of a large green expanse in which ladies and gentlemen
practised archery. Just <i>that</i>—and not the art even, but the mere
spectacle—might have been one of the substitutes in question; if not
for the languages at least for one or another of the romantic
connections we seemed a little to have missed: it was such a whiff of
the old world of Robin Hood as we could never have looked up from the
mere thumbed "story," in Fourteenth Street at any rate, to any soft
confidence of. More than I can begin to say, that is by a greater number
of queer small channels, did the world about us, thus continuous with
the old world of Robin Hood, steal into my sense—a constant state of
subjection to which fact is no bad instance of those refinements of
surrender that I just named as my fond practice. I seem to see to-day
that the London of the 'fifties was even to the weak perception of
childhood a much less generalised, a much more eccentrically and
variously characterised place, than the present great accommodated and
accommodating city; it had fewer resources but it had many more
features, scarce<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></SPAN></span> one of which failed to help the whole to bristle with
what a little gaping American could take for an intensity of difference
from <i>his</i> supposed order. It was extraordinarily the picture and the
scene of Dickens, now so changed and superseded; it offered to my
presumptuous vision still more the reflection of Thackeray—and where is
the <i>detail</i> of the reflection of Thackeray now?—so that as I trod the
vast length of Baker Street, the Thackerayan vista of other days, I
throbbed with the pride of a vastly enlarged acquaintance.</p>
<p>I dare say our perambulations of Baker Street in our little "top" hats
and other neatnesses must have been what W. J. meant by our poverty of
life—whereas it was probably one of the very things most expressive to
myself of the charm and the colour of history and (from the point of
view of the picturesque) of society. We were often in Baker Street by
reason of those stretched-out walks, at the remembered frequency and
long-drawn push of which I am to-day amazed; recalling at the same time,
however, that save for Robert Thompson's pitching ball with us in the
garden they took for us the place of all other agilities. I can't but
feel them to have been marked in their way by a rare curiosity and
energy. Good Mr. Thompson had followed us in our move, occupying
quarters, not far off, above a baker's shop on a Terrace—a group of
objects still <span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></SPAN></span>untouched by time—where we occasionally by way of change
attended for our lessons and where not the least of our inspirations was
the confidence, again and again justified, that our mid-morning "break"
would determine the appearance of a self-conscious stale cake, straight
from below, received by us all each time as if it had been a sudden
happy thought, and ushered in by a little girl who might have been a
Dickens foundling or "orfling." Our being reduced to mumble cake in a
suburban lodging by way of reaction from the strain of study would have
been perhaps a pathetic picture, but we had field-days too, when we
accompanied our excellent friend to the Tower, the Thames Tunnel, St.
Paul's and the Abbey, to say nothing of the Zoological Gardens, almost
close at hand and with which we took in that age of lingering forms no
liberty of abbreviation; to say nothing either of Madame Tussaud's, then
in our interminable but so amiable Baker Street, the only shade on the
amiability of which was just that gruesome association with the portal
of the Bazaar—since Madame Tussaud had, of all her treasures, most
vividly revealed to me the Mrs. Manning and the Burke and Hare of the
Chamber of Horrors which lurked just within it; whom, for days after
making their acquaintance (and prolonging it no further than our
conscientious friend thought advisable) I half expected,<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></SPAN></span> when alone, to
meet quite dreadfully on the staircase or on opening a door. All this
experience was valuable, but it was not the languages—save in so far
indeed as it was the English, which we hadn't in advance so much aimed
at, yet which more or less, and very interestingly, came; it at any rate
perhaps broke our fall a little that French, of a sort, continued to be
with us in the remarkably erect person of Mademoiselle Cusin, the Swiss
governess who had accompanied us from Geneva, whose quite sharply
extrusive but on the whole exhilarating presence I associate with this
winter, and who led in that longish procession of more or less similar
domesticated presences which was to keep the torch, that is the accent,
among us, fairly alight. The variety and frequency of the arrivals and
departures of these ladies—whose ghostly names, again, so far as I
recall them, I like piously to preserve, Augustine Danse, Amélie Fortin,
Marie Guyard, Marie Bonningue, Félicie Bonningue, Clarisse
Bader—mystifies me in much the same degree as our own academic
vicissitudes in New York; I can no more imagine why, sociable and
charitable, we so often changed governesses than I had contemporaneously
grasped the principle of our succession of schools: the whole group of
phenomena reflected, I gather, as a rule, much more the extreme
promptitude of the parental optimism than any <span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_307" id="Page_307"></SPAN></span>disproportionate habit of
impatience. The optimism begot precipitation, and the precipitation had
too often to confess itself. What is instructive, what is historic, is
the probability that young persons offering themselves at that time as
guides and communicators—the requirements of our small sister were for
long modest enough—quite conceivably lacked preparedness, and were so
thrown back on the extempore, which in turn lacked abundance. One of
these figures, that of Mademoiselle Danse, the most Parisian, and
prodigiously so, was afterwards to stand out for us quite luridly—a
cloud of revelations succeeding her withdrawal; a cloud which, thick as
it was, never obscured our impression of her genius and her charm. The
daughter of a political proscript who had but just escaped, by the
legend, being seized in his bed on the terrible night of the
Deux-Décembre, and who wrote her micawberish letters from Gallipolis,
Ohio, she subsequently figured to my imagination (in the light, that is,
of the divined revelations, too dreadful for our young ears,) as the
most brilliant and most genial of irregular characters, exhibiting the
Parisian "mentality" at its highest, or perhaps rather its deepest, and
more remarkable for nothing than for the consummate little art and grace
with which she had for a whole year draped herself in the mantle of our
innocent air. It was exciting, it was really<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_308" id="Page_308"></SPAN></span> valuable, to have to that
extent rubbed shoulders with an "adventuress"; it showed one that for
the adventuress there might on occasion be much to be said.</p>
<p>Those, however, were later things—extensions of view hampered for the
present, as I have noted, by our mere London street-scenery, which had
much to build out for us. I see again that we but endlessly walked and
endlessly daubed, and that our walks, with an obsession of their own,
constantly abetted our daubing. We knew no other boys at all, and we
even saw no others, I seem to remember, save the essentially rude ones,
rude with a kind of mediæval rudeness for which our clear New York
experience had given us no precedent, and of which the great and
constant sign was the artless, invidious wonder produced in them, on our
public appearances, by the alien stamp in us that, for our comfort, we
vainly sought to dissimulate. We conformed in each particular, so far as
we could, to the prevailing fashion and standard, of a narrow range in
those days, but in our very plumage—putting our <i>ramage</i> aside—our
wood-note wild must have seemed to sound, so sharply we challenged, when
abroad, the attention of our native contemporaries, and even sometimes
of their elders, pulled up at sight of us in the from-head-to-foot
stare, a curiosity void of sympathy and that attached itself for some<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_309" id="Page_309"></SPAN></span>
reason especially to our feet, which were not abnormally large. The
London people had for themselves, at the same time, an exuberance of
type; we found it in particular a world of costume, often of very odd
costume—the most intimate notes of which were the postmen in their
frock-coats of military red and their black beaver hats; the milkwomen,
in hats that often emulated these, in little shawls and strange short,
full frocks, revealing enormous boots, with their pails swung from their
shoulders on wooden yokes; the inveterate footmen hooked behind the
coaches of the rich, frequently in pairs and carrying staves, together
with the mounted and belted grooms without the attendance of whom
riders, of whichever sex—and riders then were much more
numerous—almost never went forth. The range of character, on the other
hand, reached rather dreadfully down; there were embodied and
exemplified "horrors" in the streets beside which any present exhibition
is pale, and I well remember the almost terrified sense of their
salience produced in me a couple of years later, on the occasion of a
flying return from the Continent with my father, by a long, an
interminable drive westward from the London Bridge railway-station. It
was a soft June evening, with a lingering light and swarming crowds, as
they then seemed to me, of figures reminding me of George Cruikshank's<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></SPAN></span>
Artful Dodger and his Bill Sikes and his Nancy, only with the bigger
brutality of life, which pressed upon the cab, the early-Victorian
fourwheeler, as we jogged over the Bridge, and cropped up in more and
more gas-lit patches for all our course, culminating, somewhere far to
the west, in the vivid picture, framed by the cab-window, of a woman
reeling backward as a man felled her to the ground with a blow in the
face. The London view at large had in fact more than a Cruikshank, there
still survived in it quite a Hogarth, side—which I had of course then
no name for, but which I was so sharply to recognise on coming back
years later that it fixed for me the veracity of the great pictorial
chronicler. Hogarth's mark is even yet not wholly overlaid; though time
has <i>per contra</i> dealt with that stale servility of address which most
expressed to our young minds the rich burden of a Past, the consequence
of too much history. I liked for my own part a lot of history, but felt
in face of certain queer old obsequiosities and appeals, whinings and
sidlings and hand-rubbings and curtsey-droppings, the general play of
apology and humility, behind which the great dim social complexity
seemed to mass itself, that one didn't quite want so inordinate a
quantity. Of that particular light and shade, however, the big broom of
change has swept the scene bare; more history still has been after all
what it wanted.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_311" id="Page_311"></SPAN></span> Quite another order, in the whole connection, strikes
me as reigning to-day—though not without the reminder from it that the
relations in which manner, as a generalised thing, in which "tone," is
<i>positively</i> pleasant, is really assured and sound, clear and
interesting, are numerous and definite only when it has had in its past
some strange phases and much misadventure.</p>
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<p><span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_312" id="Page_312"></SPAN></span></p>
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