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<h2> "VOYAGE OF THE 'BEAGLE' FROM DECEMBER 27, 1831, TO OCTOBER 2, 1836." </h2>
<p>On returning home from my short geological tour in North Wales, I found a
letter from Henslow, informing me that Captain Fitz-Roy was willing to
give up part of his own cabin to any young man who would volunteer to go
with him without pay as naturalist to the Voyage of the "Beagle". I have
given, as I believe, in my MS. Journal an account of all the circumstances
which then occurred; I will here only say that I was instantly eager to
accept the offer, but my father strongly objected, adding the words,
fortunate for me, "If you can find any man of common sense who advises you
to go I will give my consent." So I wrote that evening and refused the
offer. On the next morning I went to Maer to be ready for September 1st,
and, whilst out shooting, my uncle (Josiah Wedgwood.) sent for me,
offering to drive me over to Shrewsbury and talk with my father, as my
uncle thought it would be wise in me to accept the offer. My father always
maintained that he was one of the most sensible men in the world, and he
at once consented in the kindest manner. I had been rather extravagant at
Cambridge, and to console my father, said, "that I should be deuced clever
to spend more than my allowance whilst on board the 'Beagle';" but he
answered with a smile, "But they tell me you are very clever."</p>
<p>Next day I started for Cambridge to see Henslow, and thence to London to
see Fitz-Roy, and all was soon arranged. Afterwards, on becoming very
intimate with Fitz-Roy, I heard that I had run a very narrow risk of being
rejected, on account of the shape of my nose! He was an ardent disciple of
Lavater, and was convinced that he could judge of a man's character by the
outline of his features; and he doubted whether any one with my nose could
possess sufficient energy and determination for the voyage. But I think he
was afterwards well satisfied that my nose had spoken falsely.</p>
<p>Fitz-Roy's character was a singular one, with very many noble features: he
was devoted to his duty, generous to a fault, bold, determined, and
indomitably energetic, and an ardent friend to all under his sway. He
would undertake any sort of trouble to assist those whom he thought
deserved assistance. He was a handsome man, strikingly like a gentleman,
with highly courteous manners, which resembled those of his maternal
uncle, the famous Lord Castlereagh, as I was told by the Minister at Rio.
Nevertheless he must have inherited much in his appearance from Charles
II., for Dr. Wallich gave me a collection of photographs which he had
made, and I was struck with the resemblance of one to Fitz-Roy; and on
looking at the name, I found it Ch. E. Sobieski Stuart, Count d'Albanie, a
descendant of the same monarch.</p>
<p>Fitz-Roy's temper was a most unfortunate one. It was usually worst in the
early morning, and with his eagle eye he could generally detect something
amiss about the ship, and was then unsparing in his blame. He was very
kind to me, but was a man very difficult to live with on the intimate
terms which necessarily followed from our messing by ourselves in the same
cabin. We had several quarrels; for instance, early in the voyage at
Bahia, in Brazil, he defended and praised slavery, which I abominated, and
told me that he had just visited a great slave-owner, who had called up
many of his slaves and asked them whether they were happy, and whether
they wished to be free, and all answered "No." I then asked him, perhaps
with a sneer, whether he thought that the answer of slaves in the presence
of their master was worth anything? This made him excessively angry, and
he said that as I doubted his word we could not live any longer together.
I thought that I should have been compelled to leave the ship; but as soon
as the news spread, which it did quickly, as the captain sent for the
first lieutenant to assuage his anger by abusing me, I was deeply
gratified by receiving an invitation from all the gun-room officers to
mess with them. But after a few hours Fitz-Roy showed his usual
magnanimity by sending an officer to me with an apology and a request that
I would continue to live with him.</p>
<p>His character was in several respects one of the most noble which I have
ever known.</p>
<p>The voyage of the "Beagle" has been by far the most important event in my
life, and has determined my whole career; yet it depended on so small a
circumstance as my uncle offering to drive me thirty miles to Shrewsbury,
which few uncles would have done, and on such a trifle as the shape of my
nose. I have always felt that I owe to the voyage the first real training
or education of my mind; I was led to attend closely to several branches
of natural history, and thus my powers of observation were improved,
though they were always fairly developed.</p>
<p>The investigation of the geology of all the places visited was far more
important, as reasoning here comes into play. On first examining a new
district nothing can appear more hopeless than the chaos of rocks; but by
recording the stratification and nature of the rocks and fossils at many
points, always reasoning and predicting what will be found elsewhere,
light soon begins to dawn on the district, and the structure of the whole
becomes more or less intelligible. I had brought with me the first volume
of Lyell's 'Principles of Geology,' which I studied attentively; and the
book was of the highest service to me in many ways. The very first place
which I examined, namely St. Jago in the Cape de Verde islands, showed me
clearly the wonderful superiority of Lyell's manner of treating geology,
compared with that of any other author, whose works I had with me or ever
afterwards read.</p>
<p>Another of my occupations was collecting animals of all classes, briefly
describing and roughly dissecting many of the marine ones; but from not
being able to draw, and from not having sufficient anatomical knowledge, a
great pile of MS. which I made during the voyage has proved almost
useless. I thus lost much time, with the exception of that spent in
acquiring some knowledge of the Crustaceans, as this was of service when
in after years I undertook a monograph of the Cirripedia.</p>
<p>During some part of the day I wrote my Journal, and took much pains in
describing carefully and vividly all that I had seen; and this was good
practice. My Journal served also, in part, as letters to my home, and
portions were sent to England whenever there was an opportunity.</p>
<p>The above various special studies were, however, of no importance compared
with the habit of energetic industry and of concentrated attention to
whatever I was engaged in, which I then acquired. Everything about which I
thought or read was made to bear directly on what I had seen or was likely
to see; and this habit of mind was continued during the five years of the
voyage. I feel sure that it was this training which has enabled me to do
whatever I have done in science.</p>
<p>Looking backwards, I can now perceive how my love for science gradually
preponderated over every other taste. During the first two years my old
passion for shooting survived in nearly full force, and I shot myself all
the birds and animals for my collection; but gradually I gave up my gun
more and more, and finally altogether, to my servant, as shooting
interfered with my work, more especially with making out the geological
structure of a country. I discovered, though unconsciously and insensibly,
that the pleasure of observing and reasoning was a much higher one than
that of skill and sport. That my mind became developed through my pursuits
during the voyage is rendered probable by a remark made by my father, who
was the most acute observer whom I ever saw, of a sceptical disposition,
and far from being a believer in phrenology; for on first seeing me after
the voyage, he turned round to my sisters, and exclaimed, "Why, the shape
of his head is quite altered."</p>
<p>To return to the voyage. On September 11th (1831), I paid a flying visit
with Fitz-Roy to the "Beagle" at Plymouth. Thence to Shrewsbury to wish my
father and sisters a long farewell. On October 24th I took up my residence
at Plymouth, and remained there until December 27th, when the "Beagle"
finally left the shores of England for her circumnavigation of the world.
We made two earlier attempts to sail, but were driven back each time by
heavy gales. These two months at Plymouth were the most miserable which I
ever spent, though I exerted myself in various ways. I was out of spirits
at the thought of leaving all my family and friends for so long a time,
and the weather seemed to me inexpressibly gloomy. I was also troubled
with palpitation and pain about the heart, and like many a young ignorant
man, especially one with a smattering of medical knowledge, was convinced
that I had heart disease. I did not consult any doctor, as I fully
expected to hear the verdict that I was not fit for the voyage, and I was
resolved to go at all hazards.</p>
<p>I need not here refer to the events of the voyage—where we went and
what we did—as I have given a sufficiently full account in my
published Journal. The glories of the vegetation of the Tropics rise
before my mind at the present time more vividly than anything else; though
the sense of sublimity, which the great deserts of Patagonia and the
forest-clad mountains of Tierra del Fuego excited in me, has left an
indelible impression on my mind. The sight of a naked savage in his native
land is an event which can never be forgotten. Many of my excursions on
horseback through wild countries, or in the boats, some of which lasted
several weeks, were deeply interesting: their discomfort and some degree
of danger were at that time hardly a drawback, and none at all afterwards.
I also reflect with high satisfaction on some of my scientific work, such
as solving the problem of coral islands, and making out the geological
structure of certain islands, for instance, St. Helena. Nor must I pass
over the discovery of the singular relations of the animals and plants
inhabiting the several islands of the Galapagos archipelago, and of all of
them to the inhabitants of South America.</p>
<p>As far as I can judge of myself, I worked to the utmost during the voyage
from the mere pleasure of investigation, and from my strong desire to add
a few facts to the great mass of facts in Natural Science. But I was also
ambitious to take a fair place among scientific men,—whether more
ambitious or less so than most of my fellow-workers, I can form no
opinion.</p>
<p>The geology of St. Jago is very striking, yet simple: a stream of lava
formerly flowed over the bed of the sea, formed of triturated recent
shells and corals, which it has baked into a hard white rock. Since then
the whole island has been upheaved. But the line of white rock revealed to
me a new and important fact, namely, that there had been afterwards
subsidence round the craters, which had since been in action, and had
poured forth lava. It then first dawned on me that I might perhaps write a
book on the geology of the various countries visited, and this made me
thrill with delight. That was a memorable hour to me, and how distinctly I
can call to mind the low cliff of lava beneath which I rested, with the
sun glaring hot, a few strange desert plants growing near, and with living
corals in the tidal pools at my feet. Later in the voyage, Fitz-Roy asked
me to read some of my Journal, and declared it would be worth publishing;
so here was a second book in prospect!</p>
<p>Towards the close of our voyage I received a letter whilst at Ascension,
in which my sisters told me that Sedgwick had called on my father, and
said that I should take a place among the leading scientific men. I could
not at the time understand how he could have learnt anything of my
proceedings, but I heard (I believe afterwards) that Henslow had read some
of the letters which I wrote to him before the Philosophical Society of
Cambridge (Read at the meeting held November 16, 1835, and printed in a
pamphlet of 31 pages for distribution among the members of the Society.),
and had printed them for private distribution. My collection of fossil
bones, which had been sent to Henslow, also excited considerable attention
amongst palaeontologists. After reading this letter, I clambered over the
mountains of Ascension with a bounding step, and made the volcanic rocks
resound under my geological hammer. All this shows how ambitious I was;
but I think that I can say with truth that in after years, though I cared
in the highest degree for the approbation of such men as Lyell and Hooker,
who were my friends, I did not care much about the general public. I do
not mean to say that a favourable review or a large sale of my books did
not please me greatly, but the pleasure was a fleeting one, and I am sure
that I have never turned one inch out of my course to gain fame.</p>
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