<SPAN name="linkCH0218" id="linkCH0218"></SPAN>
<h2>Chapter 3.C.</h2>
<p>Crack, crack—crack, crack—crack, crack—so this
is Paris! quoth I (continuing in the same mood)—and this is
Paris!—humph!—Paris! cried I, repeating the name the
third time—</p>
<p>The first, the finest, the most brilliant—</p>
<p>The streets however are nasty.</p>
<p>But it looks, I suppose, better than it smells—crack,
crack—crack, crack—what a fuss thou makest!—as if
it concerned the good people to be informed, that a man with pale
face and clad in black, had the honour to be driven into Paris at
nine o'clock at night, by a postillion in a tawny yellow jerkin,
turned up with red calamanco—crack, crack—crack,
crack—crack, crack,—I wish thy whip—</p>
<p>—But 'tis the spirit of thy nation; so crack—crack
on.</p>
<p>Ha!—and no one gives the wall!—but in the School of
Urbanity herself, if the walls are besh..t—how can you do
otherwise?</p>
<p>And prithee when do they light the lamps? What?—never in
the summer months!—Ho! 'tis the time of sallads.—O
rare! sallad and soup—soup and sallad—sallad and soup,
encore—</p>
<p>—'Tis too much for sinners.</p>
<p>Now I cannot bear the barbarity of it; how can that
unconscionable coachman talk so much bawdy to that lean horse?
don't you see, friend, the streets are so villanously narrow, that
there is not room in all Paris to turn a wheelbarrow? In the
grandest city of the whole world, it would not have been amiss, if
they had been left a thought wider; nay, were it only so much in
every single street, as that a man might know (was it only for
satisfaction) on which side of it he was walking.</p>
<p>One—two—three—four—five—six—seven—eight—nine—ten.—Ten
cooks shops! and twice the number of barbers! and all within three
minutes driving! one would think that all the cooks in the world,
on some great merry-meeting with the barbers, by joint consent had
said—Come, let us all go live at Paris: the French love good
eating—they are all gourmands—we shall rank high; if
their god is their belly—their cooks must be gentlemen: and
forasmuch as the periwig maketh the man, and the periwig-maker
maketh the periwig—ergo, would the barbers say, we shall rank
higher still—we shall be above you all—we shall be
Capitouls (Chief Magistrate in Toulouse, &c. &c. &c.)
at least—pardi! we shall all wear swords—</p>
<p>—And so, one would swear, (that is, by
candle-light,—but there is no depending upon it,) they
continued to do, to this day.</p>
<SPAN name="linkCH0219" id="linkCH0219"></SPAN>
<h2>Chapter 3.CI.</h2>
<p>The French are certainly misunderstood:—but whether the
fault is theirs, in not sufficiently explaining themselves; or
speaking with that exact limitation and precision which one would
expect on a point of such importance, and which, moreover, is so
likely to be contested by us—or whether the fault may not be
altogether on our side, in not understanding their language always
so critically as to know 'what they would be at'—I shall not
decide; but 'tis evident to me, when they affirm, 'That they who
have seen Paris, have seen every thing,' they must mean to speak of
those who have seen it by day-light.</p>
<p>As for candle-light—I give it up—I have said before,
there was no depending upon it—and I repeat it again; but not
because the lights and shades are too sharp—or the tints
confounded—or that there is neither beauty or keeping,
&c....for that's not truth—but it is an uncertain light
in this respect, That in all the five hundred grand Hotels, which
they number up to you in Paris—and the five hundred good
things, at a modest computation (for 'tis only allowing one good
thing to a Hotel), which by candle-light are best to be seen, felt,
heard, and understood (which, by the bye, is a quotation from
Lilly)—the devil a one of us out of fifty, can get our heads
fairly thrust in amongst them.</p>
<p>This is no part of the French computation: 'tis simply this,</p>
<p>That by the last survey taken in the year one thousand seven
hundred and sixteen, since which time there have been considerable
augmentations, Paris doth contain nine hundred streets; (viz)</p>
<p>In the quarter called the City—there are fifty-three streets.<br/>
In St. James of the Shambles, fifty-five streets.<br/>
In St. Oportune, thirty-four streets.<br/>
In the quarter of the Louvre, twenty-five streets.<br/>
In the Palace Royal, or St. Honorius, forty-nine streets.<br/>
In Mont. Martyr, forty-one streets.<br/>
In St. Eustace, twenty-nine streets.<br/>
In the Halles, twenty-seven streets.<br/>
In St. Dennis, fifty-five streets.<br/>
In St. Martin, fifty-four streets.<br/>
In St. Paul, or the Mortellerie, twenty-seven streets.<br/>
The Greve, thirty-eight streets.<br/>
In St. Avoy, or the Verrerie, nineteen streets.<br/>
In the Marais, or the Temple, fifty-two streets.<br/>
In St. Antony's, sixty-eight streets.<br/>
In the Place Maubert, eighty-one streets.<br/>
In St. Bennet, sixty streets.<br/>
In St. Andrews de Arcs, fifty-one streets.<br/>
In the quarter of the Luxembourg, sixty-two streets.<br/></p>
<p>And in that of St. Germain, fifty-five streets, into any of
which you may walk; and that when you have seen them with all that
belongs to them, fairly by day-light—their gates, their
bridges, their squares, their statues...and have crusaded it
moreover, through all their parish-churches, by no means omitting
St. Roche and Sulpice...and to crown all, have taken a walk to the
four palaces, which you may see, either with or without the statues
and pictures, just as you chuse—</p>
<p>—Then you will have seen—</p>
<p>—but 'tis what no one needeth to tell you, for you will
read of it yourself upon the portico of the Louvre, in these
words,</p>
<p>Earth No Such Folks!—No Folks E'er Such A Town<br/>
As Paris Is!—Sing, Derry, Derry, Down.<br/>
(Non orbis gentem, non urbem gens habet ullam<br/>
—ulla parem.)<br/></p>
<p>The French have a gay way of treating every thing that is Great;
and that is all can be said upon it.</p>
<SPAN name="linkCH0220" id="linkCH0220"></SPAN>
<h2>Chapter 3.CII.</h2>
<p>In mentioning the word gay (as in the close of the last chapter)
it puts one (i.e. an author) in mind of the word
spleen—especially if he has any thing to say upon it: not
that by any analysis—or that from any table of interest or
genealogy, there appears much more ground of alliance betwixt them,
than betwixt light and darkness, or any two of the most unfriendly
opposites in nature—only 'tis an undercraft of authors to
keep up a good understanding amongst words, as politicians do
amongst men—not knowing how near they may be under a
necessity of placing them to each other—which point being now
gain'd, and that I may place mine exactly to my mind, I write it
down here—</p>
<p>Spleen.</p>
<p>This, upon leaving Chantilly, I declared to be the best
principle in the world to travel speedily upon; but I gave it only
as matter of opinion. I still continue in the same
sentiments—only I had not then experience enough of its
working to add this, that though you do get on at a tearing rate,
yet you get on but uneasily to yourself at the same time; for which
reason I here quit it entirely, and for ever, and 'tis heartily at
any one's service—it has spoiled me the digestion of a good
supper, and brought on a bilious diarrhoea, which has brought me
back again to my first principle on which I set out—and with
which I shall now scamper it away to the banks of the
Garonne—</p>
<p>—No;—I cannot stop a moment to give you the
character of the people—their genius—their
manners—their customs—their laws—their
religion—their government—their
manufactures—their commerce—their finances, with all
the resources and hidden springs which sustain them: qualified as I
may be, by spending three days and two nights amongst them, and
during all that time making these things the entire subject of my
enquiries and reflections—</p>
<p>Still—still I must away—the roads are
paved—the posts are short—the days are long—'tis
no more than noon—I shall be at Fontainebleau before the
king—</p>
<p>—Was he going there? not that I know—</p>
<p>End of the Third Volume.</p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />