<h2>CHAPTER VI—FRYING-PAN ALLEY AND A GLIMPSE OF INFERNO</h2>
<p>Three of us walked down Mile End Road, and one was a hero.
He was a slender lad of nineteen, so slight and frail, in fact, that,
like Fra Lippo Lippi, a puff of wind might double him up and turn him
over. He was a burning young socialist, in the first throes of
enthusiasm and ripe for martyrdom. As platform speaker or chairman
he had taken an active and dangerous part in the many indoor and outdoor
pro-Boer meetings which have vexed the serenity of Merry England these
several years back. Little items he had been imparting to me as
he walked along; of being mobbed in parks and on tram-cars; of climbing
on the platform to lead the forlorn hope, when brother speaker after
brother speaker had been dragged down by the angry crowd and cruelly
beaten; of a siege in a church, where he and three others had taken
sanctuary, and where, amid flying missiles and the crashing of stained
glass, they had fought off the mob till rescued by platoons of constables;
of pitched and giddy battles on stairways, galleries, and balconies;
of smashed windows, collapsed stairways, wrecked lecture halls, and
broken heads and bones—and then, with a regretful sigh, he looked
at me and said: “How I envy you big, strong men! I’m
such a little mite I can’t do much when it comes to fighting.”</p>
<p>And I, walking head and shoulders above my two companions, remembered
my own husky West, and the stalwart men it had been my custom, in turn,
to envy there. Also, as I looked at the mite of a youth with the
heart of a lion, I thought, this is the type that on occasion rears
barricades and shows the world that men have not forgotten how to die.</p>
<p>But up spoke my other companion, a man of twenty-eight, who eked
out a precarious existence in a sweating den.</p>
<p>“I’m a ’earty man, I am,” he announced.
“Not like the other chaps at my shop, I ain’t. They
consider me a fine specimen of manhood. W’y, d’ ye
know, I weigh ten stone!”</p>
<p>I was ashamed to tell him that I weighed one hundred and seventy
pounds, or over twelve stone, so I contented myself with taking his
measure. Poor, misshapen little man! His skin an unhealthy
colour, body gnarled and twisted out of all decency, contracted chest,
shoulders bent prodigiously from long hours of toil, and head hanging
heavily forward and out of place! A “’earty man,’
’e was!”</p>
<p>“How tall are you?”</p>
<p>“Five foot two,” he answered proudly; “an’
the chaps at the shop . . . ”</p>
<p>“Let me see that shop,” I said.</p>
<p>The shop was idle just then, but I still desired to see it.
Passing Leman Street, we cut off to the left into Spitalfields, and
dived into Frying-pan Alley. A spawn of children cluttered the
slimy pavement, for all the world like tadpoles just turned frogs on
the bottom of a dry pond. In a narrow doorway, so narrow that
perforce we stepped over her, sat a woman with a young babe, nursing
at breasts grossly naked and libelling all the sacredness of motherhood.
In the black and narrow hall behind her we waded through a mess of young
life, and essayed an even narrower and fouler stairway. Up we
went, three flights, each landing two feet by three in area, and heaped
with filth and refuse.</p>
<p>There were seven rooms in this abomination called a house.
In six of the rooms, twenty-odd people, of both sexes and all ages,
cooked, ate, slept, and worked. In size the rooms averaged eight
feet by eight, or possibly nine. The seventh room we entered.
It was the den in which five men “sweated.” It was
seven feet wide by eight long, and the table at which the work was performed
took up the major portion of the space. On this table were five
lasts, and there was barely room for the men to stand to their work,
for the rest of the space was heaped with cardboard, leather, bundles
of shoe uppers, and a miscellaneous assortment of materials used in
attaching the uppers of shoes to their soles.</p>
<p>In the adjoining room lived a woman and six children. In another
vile hole lived a widow, with an only son of sixteen who was dying of
consumption. The woman hawked sweetmeats on the street, I was
told, and more often failed than not to supply her son with the three
quarts of milk he daily required. Further, this son, weak and
dying, did not taste meat oftener than once a week; and the kind and
quality of this meat cannot possibly be imagined by people who have
never watched human swine eat.</p>
<p>“The w’y ’e coughs is somethin’ terrible,”
volunteered my sweated friend, referring to the dying boy. “We
’ear ’im ’ere, w’ile we’re workin’,
an’ it’s terrible, I say, terrible!”</p>
<p>And, what of the coughing and the sweetmeats, I found another menace
added to the hostile environment of the children of the slum.</p>
<p>My sweated friend, when work was to be had, toiled with four other
men in his eight-by-seven room. In the winter a lamp burned nearly
all the day and added its fumes to the over-loaded air, which was breathed,
and breathed, and breathed again.</p>
<p>In good times, when there was a rush of work, this man told me that
he could earn as high as “thirty bob a week.”—Thirty
shillings! Seven dollars and a half!</p>
<p>“But it’s only the best of us can do it,” he qualified.
“An’ then we work twelve, thirteen, and fourteen hours a
day, just as fast as we can. An’ you should see us sweat!
Just running from us! If you could see us, it’d dazzle your
eyes—tacks flyin’ out of mouth like from a machine.
Look at my mouth.”</p>
<p>I looked. The teeth were worn down by the constant friction
of the metallic brads, while they were coal-black and rotten.</p>
<p>“I clean my teeth,” he added, “else they’d
be worse.”</p>
<p>After he had told me that the workers had to furnish their own tools,
brads, “grindery,” cardboard, rent, light, and what not,
it was plain that his thirty bob was a diminishing quantity.</p>
<p>“But how long does the rush season last, in which you receive
this high wage of thirty bob?” I asked.</p>
<p>“Four months,” was the answer; and for the rest of the
year, he informed me, they average from “half a quid” to
a “quid” a week, which is equivalent to from two dollars
and a half to five dollars. The present week was half gone, and
he had earned four bob, or one dollar. And yet I was given to
understand that this was one of the better grades of sweating.</p>
<p>I looked out of the window, which should have commanded the back
yards of the neighbouring buildings. But there were no back yards,
or, rather, they were covered with one-storey hovels, cowsheds, in which
people lived. The roofs of these hovels were covered with deposits
of filth, in some places a couple of feet deep—the contributions
from the back windows of the second and third storeys. I could
make out fish and meat bones, garbage, pestilential rags, old boots,
broken earthenware, and all the general refuse of a human sty.</p>
<p>“This is the last year of this trade; they’re getting
machines to do away with us,” said the sweated one mournfully,
as we stepped over the woman with the breasts grossly naked and waded
anew through the cheap young life.</p>
<p>We next visited the municipal dwellings erected by the London County
Council on the site of the slums where lived Arthur Morrison’s
“Child of the Jago.” While the buildings housed more
people than before, it was much healthier. But the dwellings were
inhabited by the better-class workmen and artisans. The slum people
had simply drifted on to crowd other slums or to form new slums.</p>
<p>“An’ now,” said the sweated one, the ’earty
man who worked so fast as to dazzle one’s eyes, “I’ll
show you one of London’s lungs. This is Spitalfields Garden.”
And he mouthed the word “garden” with scorn.</p>
<p>The shadow of Christ’s Church falls across Spitalfields Garden,
and in the shadow of Christ’s Church, at three o’clock in
the afternoon, I saw a sight I never wish to see again. There
are no flowers in this garden, which is smaller than my own rose garden
at home. Grass only grows here, and it is surrounded by a sharp-spiked
iron fencing, as are all the parks of London Town, so that homeless
men and women may not come in at night and sleep upon it.</p>
<p>As we entered the garden, an old woman, between fifty and sixty,
passed us, striding with sturdy intention if somewhat rickety action,
with two bulky bundles, covered with sacking, slung fore and aft upon
her. She was a woman tramp, a houseless soul, too independent
to drag her failing carcass through the workhouse door. Like the
snail, she carried her home with her. In the two sacking-covered
bundles were her household goods, her wardrobe, linen, and dear feminine
possessions.</p>
<p>We went up the narrow gravelled walk. On the benches on either
side arrayed a mass of miserable and distorted humanity, the sight of
which would have impelled Doré to more diabolical flights of
fancy than he ever succeeded in achieving. It was a welter of
rags and filth, of all manner of loathsome skin diseases, open sores,
bruises, grossness, indecency, leering monstrosities, and bestial faces.
A chill, raw wind was blowing, and these creatures huddled there in
their rags, sleeping for the most part, or trying to sleep. Here
were a dozen women, ranging in age from twenty years to seventy.
Next a babe, possibly of nine months, lying asleep, flat on the hard
bench, with neither pillow nor covering, nor with any one looking after
it. Next half-a-dozen men, sleeping bolt upright or leaning against
one another in their sleep. In one place a family group, a child
asleep in its sleeping mother’s arms, and the husband (or male
mate) clumsily mending a dilapidated shoe. On another bench a
woman trimming the frayed strips of her rags with a knife, and another
woman, with thread and needle, sewing up rents. Adjoining, a man
holding a sleeping woman in his arms. Farther on, a man, his clothing
caked with gutter mud, asleep, with head in the lap of a woman, not
more than twenty-five years old, and also asleep.</p>
<p>It was this sleeping that puzzled me. Why were nine out of
ten of them asleep or trying to sleep? But it was not till afterwards
that I learned. <i>It is a law of the powers that be that the
homeless shall not sleep by night</i>. On the pavement, by the
portico of Christ’s Church, where the stone pillars rise toward
the sky in a stately row, were whole rows of men lying asleep or drowsing,
and all too deep sunk in torpor to rouse or be made curious by our intrusion.</p>
<p>“A lung of London,” I said; “nay, an abscess, a
great putrescent sore.”</p>
<p>“Oh, why did you bring me here?” demanded the burning
young socialist, his delicate face white with sickness of soul and stomach
sickness.</p>
<p>“Those women there,” said our guide, “will sell
themselves for thru’pence, or tu’pence, or a loaf of stale
bread.”</p>
<p>He said it with a cheerful sneer.</p>
<p>But what more he might have said I do not know, for the sick man
cried, “For heaven’s sake let us get out of this.”</p>
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