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<h2> LETTER LXXXV </h2>
<h3> LONDON, October 9, O. S. 1749. </h3>
<p>DEAR BOY: If this letter finds you at all, of which I am very doubtful, it
will find you at Venice, preparing for your journey to Rome; which, by my
last letter to Mr. Harte, I advised you to make along the coast of the
Adriatic, through Rimini, Loretto, Ancona, etc., places that are all worth
seeing; but not worth staying at. And such I reckon all places where the
eyes only are employed. Remains of antiquity, public buildings, paintings,
sculptures, etc., ought to be seen, and that with a proper degree of
attention; but this is soon done, for they are only outsides. It is not so
with more important objects; the insides of which must be seen; and they
require and deserve much more attention. The characters, the heads, and
the hearts of men, are the useful science of which I would have you
perfect master. That science is best taught and best learned in capitals,
where every human passion has its object, and exerts all its force or all
its art in the pursuit. I believe there is no place in the world, where
every passion is busier, appears in more shapes, and is conducted with
more art, than at Rome. Therefore, when you are there, do not imagine that
the Capitol, the Vatican, and the Pantheon, are the principal objects of
your curiosity. But for one minute that you bestow upon those, employ ten
days in informing yourself of the nature of that government, the rise and
decay of the papal power, the politics of that court, the 'Brigues' of the
cardinals, the tricks of the Conclaves; and, in general, everything that
relates to the interior of that extraordinary government, founded
originally upon the ignorance and superstition of mankind, extended by the
weakness of some princes, and the ambition of others; declining of late in
proportion as knowledge has increased; and owing its present precarious
security, not to the religion, the affection, or the fear of the temporal
powers, but to the jealousy of each other. The Pope's excommunications are
no longer dreaded; his indulgences little solicited, and sell very cheap;
and his territories formidable to no power, are coveted by many, and will,
most undoubtedly, within a century, be scantled out among the great
powers, who have now a footing in Italy, whenever they can agree upon the
division of the bear's skin. Pray inform yourself thoroughly of the
history of the popes and the popedom; which, for many centuries, is
interwoven with the history of all Europe. Read the best authors who treat
of these matters, and especially Fra Paolo, 'De Beneficiis', a short, but
very material book. You will find at Rome some of all the religious orders
in the Christian world. Inform yourself carefully of their origin, their
founders, their rules, their reforms, and even their dresses: get
acquainted with some of all of them, but particularly with the Jesuits;
whose society I look upon to be the most able and best governed society in
the world. Get acquainted, if you can, with their General, who always
resides at Rome; and who, though he has no seeming power out of his own
society, has (it may be) more real influence over the whole world, than
any temporal prince in it. They have almost engrossed the education of
youth; they are, in general, confessors to most of the princes of Europe;
and they are the principal missionaries out of it; which three articles
give them a most extensive influence and solid advantages; witness their
settlement in Paraguay. The Catholics in general declaim against that
society; and yet are all governed by individuals of it. They have, by
turns, been banished, and with infamy, almost every country in Europe; and
have always found means to be restored, even with triumph. In short, I
know no government in the world that is carried on upon such deep
principles of policy, I will not add morality. Converse with them,
frequent them, court them; but know them.</p>
<p>Inform yourself, too, of that infernal court, the Inquisition; which,
though not so considerable at Rome as in Spain and Portugal, will,
however, be a good sample to you of what the villainy of some men can
contrive, the folly of others receive, and both together establish, in
spite of the first natural principles of reason, justice, and equity.</p>
<p>These are the proper and useful objects of the attention of a man of
sense, when he travels; and these are the objects for which I have sent
you abroad; and I hope you will return thoroughly informed of them.</p>
<p>I receive this very moment Mr. Harte's letter of the 1st October, N. S.,
but I never received his former, to which he refers in this, and you refer
in your last; in which he gave me the reasons for your leaving Verona so
soon; nor have I ever received that letter in which your case was stated
by your physicians. Letters to and from me have worse luck than other
people's; for you have written to me, and I to you, for these last three
months, by way of Germany, with as little success as before.</p>
<p>I am edified with your morning applications, and your evening gallantries
at Venice, of which Mr. Harte gives me an account. Pray go on with both
there, and afterward at Rome; where, provided you arrive in the beginning
of December, you may stay at Venice as much longer as you please.</p>
<p>Make my compliments to Sir James Gray and Mr. Smith, with my
acknowledgments for the great civilities they show you.</p>
<p>I wrote to Mr. Harte by the last post, October the 6th, O. S., and will
write to him in a post or two upon the contents of his last. Adieu! 'Point
de distractions'; and remember the GRACES.</p>
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