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<h2> THE INN KITCHEN. </h2>
<p>Shall I not take mine ease in mine inn?<br/>
FALSTAFF.<br/></p>
<p>DURING a journey that I once made through the Netherlands, I had arrived
one evening at the Pomme d'Or, the principal inn of a small Flemish
village. It was after the hour of the table d'hote, so that I was obliged
to make a solitary supper from the relics of its ampler board. The weather
was chilly; I was seated alone in one end of a great gloomy dining-room,
and, my repast being over, I had the prospect before me of a long dull
evening, without any visible means of enlivening it. I summoned mine host
and requested something to read; he brought me the whole literary stock of
his household, a Dutch family Bible, an almanac in the same language, and
a number of old Paris newspapers. As I sat dozing over one of the latter,
reading old news and stale criticisms, my ear was now and then struck with
bursts of laughter which seemed to proceed from the kitchen. Every one
that has travelled on the Continent must know how favorite a resort the
kitchen of a country inn is to the middle and inferior order of
travellers, particularly in that equivocal kind of weather when a fire
becomes agreeable toward evening. I threw aside the newspaper and explored
my way to the kitchen, to take a peep at the group that appeared to be so
merry. It was composed partly of travellers who had arrived some hours
before in a diligence, and partly of the usual attendants and hangers-on
of inns. They were seated round a great burnished stove, that might have
been mistaken for an altar at which they were worshipping. It was covered
with various kitchen vessels of resplendent brightness, among which
steamed and hissed a huge copper tea-kettle. A large lamp threw a strong
mass of light upon the group, bringing out many odd features in strong
relief. Its yellow rays partially illumined the spacious kitchen, dying
duskily away into remote corners, except where they settled in mellow
radiance on the broad side of a flitch of bacon or were reflected back
from well-scoured utensils that gleamed from the midst of obscurity. A
strapping Flemish lass, with long golden pendants in her ears and a
necklace with a golden heart suspended to it, was the presiding priestess
of the temple.</p>
<p>Many of the company were furnished with pipes, and most of them with some
kind of evening potation. I found their mirth was occasioned by anecdotes
which a little swarthy Frenchman, with a dry weazen face and large
whiskers, was giving of his love-adventures; at the end of each of which
there was one of those bursts of honest unceremonious laughter in which a
man indulges in that temple of true liberty, an inn.</p>
<p>As I had no better mode of getting through a tedious blustering evening, I
took my seat near the stove, and listened to a variety of travellers'
tales, some very extravagant and most very dull. All of them, however,
have faded from my treacherous memory except one, which I will endeavor to
relate. I fear, however, it derived its chief zest from the manner in
which it was told, and the peculiar air and appearance of the narrator. He
was a corpulent old Swiss, who had the look of a veteran traveller. He was
dressed in a tarnished green travelling-jacket, with a broad belt round
his waist, and a pair of overalls with buttons from the hips to the
ankles. He was of a full rubicund countenance, with a double chin,
aquiline nose, and a pleasant twinkling eye. His hair was light, and
curled from under an old green velvet travelling-cap stuck on one side of
his head. He was interrupted more than once by the arrival of guests or
the remarks of his auditors, and paused now and then to replenish his
pipe; at which times he had generally a roguish leer and a sly joke for
the buxom kitchen-maid.</p>
<p>I wish my readers could imagine the old fellow lolling in a huge
arm-chair, one arm a-kimbo, the other holding a curiously twisted
tobacco-pipe formed of genuine ecume de mer, decorated with silver chain
and silken tassel, his head cocked on one side, and a whimsical cut of the
eye occasionally as he related the following story.</p>
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