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<h2> STRATFORD-ON-AVON. </h2>
<p>Thou soft-flowing Avon, by thy silver stream Of things more than mortal
sweet Shakespeare would dream The fairies by moonlight dance round his
green bed, For hallow'd the turf is which pillow'd his head.</p>
<p>GARRICK.</p>
<p>TO a homeless man, who has no spot on this wide world which he can truly
call his own, there is a momentary feeling of something like independence
and territorial consequence when, after a weary day's travel, he kicks off
his boots, thrusts his feet into slippers, and stretches himself before an
inn-fire. Let the world without go as it may, let kingdoms rise or fall,
so long as he has the wherewithal to pay his bill he is, for the time
being, the very monarch of all he surveys. The armchair is his throne, the
poker his sceptre, and the little parlor, some twelve feet square, his
undisputed empire. It is a morsel of certainly snatched from the midst of
the uncertainties of life; it is a sunny moment gleaming out kindly on a
cloudy day: and he who has advanced some way on the pilgrimage of
existence knows the importance of husbanding even morsels and moments of
enjoyment. "Shall I not take mine ease in mine inn?" thought I, as I gave
the fire a stir, lolled back in my elbow-chair, and cast a complacent look
about the little parlor of the Red Horse at Stratford-on-Avon.</p>
<p>The words of sweet Shakespeare were just passing through my mind as the
clock struck midnight from the tower of the church in which he lies
buried. There was a gentle tap at the door, and a pretty chambermaid,
putting in her smiling face, inquired, with a hesitating air, whether I
had rung. I understood it as a modest hint that it was time to retire. My
dream of absolute dominion was at an end; so abdicating my throne, like a
prudent potentate, to avoid being deposed, and putting the Stratford
Guide-Book under my arm as a pillow companion, I went to bed, and dreamt
all night of Shakespeare, the jubilee, and David Garrick.</p>
<p>The next morning was one of those quickening mornings which we sometimes
have in early spring, for it was about the middle of March. The chills of
a long winter had suddenly given way; the north wind had spent its last
gasp; and a mild air came stealing from the west, breathing the breath of
life into Nature, and wooing every bud and flower to burst forth into
fragrance and beauty.</p>
<p>I had come to Stratford on a poetical pilgrimage. My first visit was to
the house where Shakespeare was born, and where, according to tradition,
he was brought up to his father's craft of wool-combing. It is a small
mean-looking edifice of wood and plaster, a true nestling-place of genius,
which seems to delight in hatching its offspring in by-corners. The walls
of its squalid chambers are covered with names and inscriptions in every
language by pilgrims of all nations, ranks, and conditions, from the
prince to the peasant, and present a simple but striking instance of the
spontaneous and universal homage of mankind to the great poet of Nature.</p>
<p>The house is shown by a garrulous old lady in a frosty red face, lighted
up by a cold blue, anxious eye, and garnished with artificial locks of
flaxen hair curling from under an exceedingly dirty cap. She was
peculiarly assiduous in exhibiting the relics with which this, like all
other celebrated shrines, abounds. There was the shattered stock of the
very matchlock with which Shakespeare shot the deer on his poaching
exploits. There, too, was his tobacco-box, which proves that he was a
rival smoker of Sir Walter Raleigh: the sword also with which he played
Hamlet; and the identical lantern with which Friar Laurence discovered
Romeo and Juliet at the tomb. There was an ample supply also of
Shakespeare's mulberry tree, which seems to have as extraordinary powers
of self-multiplication as the wood of the true cross, of which there is
enough extant to build a ship of the line.</p>
<p>The most favorite object of curiosity, however, is Shakespeare's chair. It
stands in a chimney-nook of a small gloomy chamber just behind what was
his father's shop. Here he may many a time have sat when a boy, watching
the slowly revolving spit with all the longing of an urchin, or of an
evening listening to the cronies and gossips of Stratford dealing forth
churchyard tales and legendary anecdotes of the troublesome times of
England. In this chair it is the custom of every one that visits the house
to sit: whether this be done with the hope of imbibing any of the
inspiration of the bard I am at a loss to say; I merely mention the fact,
and mine hostess privately assured me that, though built of solid oak,
such was the fervent zeal of devotees the chair had to be new bottomed at
least once in three years. It is worthy of notice also, in the history of
this extraordinary chair, that it partakes something of the volatile
nature of the Santa Casa of Loretto, or the flying chair of the Arabian
enchanter; for, though sold some few years since to a northern princess,
yet, strange to tell, it has found its way back again to the old
chimney-corner.</p>
<p>I am always of easy faith in such matters, and am ever willing to be
deceived where the deceit is pleasant and costs nothing. I am therefore a
ready believer in relics, legends, and local anecdotes of goblins and
great men, and would advise all travellers who travel for their
gratification to be the same. What is it to us whether these stories be
true or false, so long as we can persuade ourselves into the belief of
them and enjoy all the charm of the reality? There is nothing like
resolute good-humored credulity in these matters, and on this occasion I
went even so far as willingly to believe the claims of mine hostess to a
lineal descent from the poet, when, unluckily for my faith, she put into
my hands a play of her own composition, which set all belief in her own
consanguinity at defiance.</p>
<p>From the birthplace of Shakespeare a few paces brought me to his grave. He
lies buried in the chancel of the parish church, a large and venerable
pile, mouldering with age, but richly ornamented. It stands on the banks
of the Avon on an embowered point, and separated by adjoining gardens from
the suburbs of the town. Its situation is quiet and retired; the river
runs murmuring at the foot of the churchyard, and the elms which grow upon
its banks droop their branches into its clear bosom. An avenue of limes,
the boughs of which are curiously interlaced, so as to form in summer an
arched way of foliage, leads up from the gate of the yard to the
church-porch. The graves are overgrown with grass; the gray tombstones,
some of them nearly sunk into the earth, are half covered with moss, which
has likewise tinted the reverend old building. Small birds have built
their nests among the cornices and fissures of the walls, and keep up a
continual flutter and chirping; and rooks are sailing and cawing about its
lofty gray spire.</p>
<p>In the course of my rambles I met with the gray-headed sexton, Edmonds,
and accompanied him home to get the key of the church. He had lived in
Stratford, man and boy, for eighty years, and seemed still to consider
himself a vigorous man, with the trivial exception that he had nearly lost
the use of his legs for a few years past. His dwelling was a cottage
looking out upon the Avon and its bordering meadows, and was a picture of
that neatness, order, and comfort which pervade the humblest dwellings in
this country. A low whitewashed room, with a stone floor carefully
scrubbed, served for parlor, kitchen, and hall. Rows of pewter and earthen
dishes glittered along the dresser. On an old oaken table, well rubbed and
polished, lay the family Bible and prayer-book, and the drawer contained
the family library, composed of about half a score of well-thumbed
volumes. An ancient clock, that important article of cottage furniture,
ticked on the opposite side of the room, with a bright warming-pan hanging
on one side of it, and the old man's horn-handled Sunday cane on the
other. The fireplace, as usual, was wide and deep enough to admit a gossip
knot within its jambs. In one corner sat the old man's granddaughter
sewing, a pretty blue-eyed girl, and in the opposite corner was a
superannuated crony whom he addressed by the name of John Ange, and who, I
found, had been his companion from childhood. They had played together in
infancy; they had worked together in manhood; they were now tottering
about and gossiping away the evening of life; and in a short time they
will probably be buried together in the neighboring churchyard. It is not
often that we see two streams of existence running thus evenly and
tranquilly side by side; it is only in such quiet "bosom scenes" of life
that they are to be met with.</p>
<p>I had hoped to gather some traditionary anecdotes of the bard from these
ancient chroniclers, but they had nothing new to impart. The long interval
during which Shakespeare's writings lay in comparative neglect has spread
its shadow over his history, and it is his good or evil lot that scarcely
anything remains to his biographers but a scanty handful of conjectures.</p>
<p>The sexton and his companion had been employed as carpenters on the
preparations for the celebrated Stratford Jubilee, and they remembered
Garrick, the prime mover of the fete, who superintended the arrangements,
and who, according to the sexton, was "a short punch man, very lively and
bustling." John Ange had assisted also in cutting down Shakespeare's
mulberry tree, of which he had a morsel in his pocket for sale; no doubt a
sovereign quickener of literary conception.</p>
<p>I was grieved to hear these two worthy wights speak very dubiously of the
eloquent dame who shows the Shakespeare house. John Ange shook his head
when I mentioned her valuable and inexhaustible collection of relics,
particularly her remains of the mulberry tree; and the old sexton even
expressed a doubt as to Shakespeare having been born in her house. I soon
discovered that he looked upon her mansion with an evil eye, as a rival to
the poet's tomb, the latter having comparatively but few visitors. Thus it
is that historians differ at the very outset, and mere pebbles make the
stream of truth diverge into different channels even at the fountain-head.</p>
<p>We approached the church through the avenue of limes, and entered by a
Gothic porch, highly ornamented, with carved doors of massive oak. The
interior is spacious, and the architecture and embellishments superior to
those of most country churches. There are several ancient monuments of
nobility and gentry, over some of which hang funeral escutcheons and
banners dropping piecemeal from the walls. The tomb of Shakespeare is in
the chancel. The place is solemn and sepulchral. Tall elms wave before the
pointed windows, and the Avon, which runs at a short distance from the
walls, keeps up a low perpetual murmur. A flat stone marks the spot where
the bard is buried. There are four lines inscribed on it, said to have
been written by himself, and which have in them something extremely awful.
If they are indeed his own, they show that solicitude about the quiet of
the grave which seems natural to fine sensibilities and thoughtful minds:</p>
<p>Good friend, for Jesus' sake, forbeare<br/>
To dig the dust inclosed here.<br/>
Blessed be he that spares these stones,<br/>
And curst be he that moves my bones.<br/></p>
<p>Just over the grave, in a niche of the wall, is a bust of Shakespeare, put
up shortly after his death and considered as a resemblance. The aspect is
pleasant and serene, with a finely-arched forehead; and I thought I could
read in it clear indications of that cheerful, social disposition by which
he was as much characterized among his contemporaries as by the vastness
of his genius. The inscription mentions his age at the time of his
decease, fifty-three years—an untimely death for the world, for what
fruit might not have been expected from the golden autumn of such a mind,
sheltered as it was from the stormy vicissitudes of life, and flourishing
in the sunshine of popular and royal favor?</p>
<p>The inscription on the tombstone has not been without its effect. It has
prevented the removal of his remains from the bosom of his native place to
Westminster Abbey, which was at one time contemplated. A few years since
also, as some laborers were digging to make an adjoining vault, the earth
caved in, so as to leave a vacant space almost like an arch, through which
one might have reached into his grave. No one, however, presumed to meddle
with his remains so awfully guarded by a malediction; and lest any of the
idle or the curious or any collector of relics should be tempted to commit
depredations, the old sexton kept watch over the place for two days, until
the vault was finished and the aperture closed again. He told me that he
had made bold to look in at the hole, but could see neither coffin nor
bones—nothing but dust. It was something, I thought, to have seen
the dust of Shakespeare.</p>
<p>Next to this grave are those of his wife, his favorite daughter, Mrs.
Hall, and others of his family. On a tomb close by, also, is a full-length
effigy of his old friend John Combe, of usurious memory, on whom he is
said to have written a ludicrous epitaph. There are other monuments
around, but the mind refuses to dwell on anything that is not connected
with Shakespeare. His idea pervades the place; the whole pile seems but as
his mausoleum. The feelings, no longer checked and thwarted by doubt, here
indulge in perfect confidence: other traces of him may be false or
dubious, but here is palpable evidence and absolute certainty. As I trod
the sounding pavement there was something intense and thrilling in the
idea that in very truth the remains of Shakespeare were mouldering beneath
my feet. It was a long time before I could prevail upon myself to leave
the place; and as I passed through the churchyard I plucked a branch from
one of the yew trees, the only relic that I have brought from Stratford.</p>
<p>I had now visited the usual objects of a pilgrim's devotion, but I had a
desire to see the old family seat of the Lucys at Charlecot, and to ramble
through the park where Shakespeare, in company with some of the roisterers
of Stratford, committed his youthful offence of deer-stealing. In this
harebrained exploit we are told that he was taken prisoner and carried to
the keeper's lodge, where he remained all night in doleful captivity. When
brought into the presence of Sir Thomas Lucy his treatment must have been
galling and humiliating; for it so wrought upon his spirit as to produce a
rough pasquinade which was affixed to the park gate at Charlecot.*</p>
<p>This flagitious attack upon the dignity of the knight so incensed him that
he applied to a lawyer at Warwick to put the severity of the laws in force
against the rhyming deer-stalker. Shakespeare did not wait to brave the
united puissance of a knight of the shire and a country attorney. He
forthwith abandoned the pleasant banks of the Avon and his paternal trade;
wandered away to London; became a hanger-on to the theatres; then an
actor; and finally wrote for the stage; and thus, through the persecution
of Sir Thomas Lucy, Stratford lost an indifferent wool-comber and the
world gained an immortal poet. He retained, however, for a long time, a
sense of the harsh treatment of the lord of Charlecot, and revenged
himself in his writings, but in the sportive way of a good-natured mind.
Sir Thomas is said to be the original of Justice Shallow, and the satire
is slyly fixed upon him by the justice's armorial bearings, which, like
those of the knight, had white luces+ in the quarterings.</p>
<p>* The following is the only stanza extant of this lampoon:<br/>
<br/>
A parliament member, a justice of peace,<br/>
At home a poor scarecrow, at London an asse,<br/>
If lowsie is Lucy, as some volke miscalle it,<br/>
Then Lucy is lowsie, whatever befall it.<br/>
He thinks himself great;<br/>
Yet an asse in his state,<br/>
We allow by his ears but with asses to mate,<br/>
If Lucy is lowsie, as some volke miscalle it,<br/>
Then sing lowsie Lucy whatever befall it.<br/>
<br/>
+ The luce is a pike or jack, and abounds in the Avon about<br/>
Charlecot.<br/></p>
<p>Various attempts have been made by his biographers to soften and explain
away this, early transgression of the poet; but I look upon it as one of
those thoughtless exploits natural to his situation and turn of mind.
Shakespeare, when young, had doubtless all the wildness and irregularity
of an ardent, undisciplined, and undirected genius. The poetic temperament
has naturally something in it of the vagabond. When left to itself it runs
loosely and wildly, and delights in everything eccentric and licentious.
It is often a turn up of a die, in the gambling freaks of fate, whether a
natural genius shall turn out a great rogue or a great poet; and had not
Shakespeare's mind fortunately taken a literary bias, he might have as
daringly transcended all civil as he has all dramatic laws.</p>
<p>I have little doubt that, in early life, when running like an unbroken
colt about the neighborbood of Stratford, he was to be found in the
company of all kinds of odd anomalous characters, that he associated with
all the madcaps of the place, and was one of those unlucky urchins at
mention of whom old men shake their heads and predict that they will one
day come to the gallows. To him the poaching in Sir Thomas Lucy's park was
doubtless like a foray to a Scottish knight, and struck his eager, and as
yet untamed, imagination as something delightfully adventurous.*</p>
<p>* A proof of Shakespeare's random habits and associates in<br/>
his youthful days may be found in a traditionary anecdote,<br/>
picked up at Stratford by the elder Ireland, and mentioned<br/>
in his "Picturesque Views on the Avon."<br/></p>
<p>About seven miles from Stratford lies the thirsty little market-town of
Bedford, famous for its ale. Two societies of the village yeomanry used to
meet, under the appellation of the Bedford topers, and to challenge the
lovers of good ale of the neighboring villages to a contest of drinking.
Among others, the people of Stratford were called out to prove the
strength of their heads; and in the number of the champions was
Shakespeare, who, in spite of the proverb that "they who drink beer will
think beer," was as true to his ale as Falstaff to his sack. The chivalry
of Stratford was staggered at the first onset, and sounded a retreat while
they had yet the legs to carry them off the field. They had scarcely
marched a mile when, their legs failing them, they were forced to lie down
under a crab tree, where they passed the night. It was still standing, and
goes by the name of Shakespeare's tree.</p>
<p>In the morning his companions awaked the bard, and proposed returning to
Bedford, but he declined, saying he had enough, having drank with</p>
<p>Piping Pebworth, Dancing Marston,<br/>
Haunted Hilbro', Hungry Grafton,<br/>
Dudging Exhall, Papist Wicksford,<br/>
Beggarly Broom, and Drunken Bedford.<br/></p>
<p>"The villages here alluded to," says Ireland, "still bear the epithets
thus given them: the people of Pebworth are still famed for their skill on
the pipe and tabor; Hilborough is now called Haunted Hilborough; and
Grafton is famous for the poverty of its soil."</p>
<p>The old mansion of Charlecot and its surrounding park still remain in the
possession of the Lucy family, and are peculiarly interesting front being
connected with this whimsical but eventful circumstance in the scanty
history of the bard. As the house stood at little more than three miles'
distance from Stratford, I resolved to pay it a pedestrian visit, that I
might stroll leisurely through some of those scenes from which Shakespeare
must have derived his earliest ideas of rural imagery.</p>
<p>The country was yet naked and leafless, but English scenery is always
verdant, and the sudden change in the temperature of the weather was
surprising in its quickening effects upon the landscape. It was inspiring
and animating to witness this first awakening of spring; to feel its warm
breath stealing over the senses; to see the moist mellow earth beginning
to put forth the green sprout and the tender blade, and the trees and
shrubs, in their reviving tints and bursting buds, giving the promise of
returning foliage and flower. The cold snow-drop, that little borderer on
the skirts of winter, was to be seen with its chaste white blossoms in the
small gardens before the cottages. The bleating of the new-dropt lambs was
faintly heard from the fields. The sparrow twittered about the thatched
eaves and budding hedges; the robin threw a livelier note into his late
querulous wintry strain; and the lark, springing up from the reeking bosom
of the meadow, towered away into the bright fleecy cloud, pouring forth
torrents of melody. As I watched the little songster mounting up higher
and higher, until his body was a mere speck on the white bosom of the
cloud, while the ear was still filled with his music, it called to mind
Shakespeare's exquisite little song in Cymbeline:</p>
<p>Hark! hark! the lark at heav'n's gate sings,<br/>
And Phoebus 'gins arise,<br/>
His steeds to water at those springs,<br/>
On chaliced flowers that lies.<br/>
<br/>
And winking mary-buds begin<br/>
To ope their golden eyes;<br/>
With every thing that pretty bin,<br/>
My lady sweet arise!<br/></p>
<p>Indeed, the whole country about here is poetic ground: everything is
associated with the idea of Shakespeare. Every old cottage that I saw I
fancied into some resort of his boyhood, where he had acquired his
intimate knowledge of rustic life and manners, and heard those legendary
tales and wild superstitions which he has woven like witchcraft into his
dramas. For in his time, we are told, it was a popular amusement in winter
evenings "to sit round the fire, and tell merry tales of errant knights,
queens, lovers, lords, ladies, giants, dwarfs, thieves, cheaters, witches,
fairies, goblins, and friars."*</p>
<p>* Scot, in his "Discoverie of Witchcraft," enumerates a of<br/>
these fireside fancies: "And they have so fraid us with host<br/>
bull-beggars, spirits, witches, urchins, elves, hags,<br/>
fairies, satyrs, pans, faunes, syrens, kit with the can<br/>
sticke, tritons, centaurs, dwarfes, giantes, imps, calcars,<br/>
conjurors, nymphes, changelings, incubus, Robin-goodfellow,<br/>
the spoorne, the mare, the man in the oke, the hell-waine,<br/>
the fier drake, the puckle, Tom Thombe, hobgoblins, Tom<br/>
Tumbler, boneless, and such other bugs, that we were afraid<br/>
of our own shadowes."<br/></p>
<p>My route for a part of the way lay in sight of the Avon, which made a
variety of the most fancy doublings and windings through a wide and
fertile valley—sometimes glittering from among willows which fringed
its borders; sometimes disappearing among groves or beneath green banks;
and sometimes rambling out into full view and making an azure sweep round
a slope of meadow-land. This beautiful bosom of country is called the Vale
of the Red Horse. A distant line of undulating blue hills seems to be its
boundary, whilst all the soft intervening landscape lies in a manner
enchained in the silver links of the Avon.</p>
<p>After pursuing the road for about three miles, I turned off into a
footpath, which led along the borders of fields and under hedgerows to a
private gate of the park; there was a stile, however, for the benefit of
the pedestrian, there being a public right of way through the grounds. I
delight in these hospitable estates, in which every one has a kind of
property—at least as far as the footpath is concerned. It in some
measure reconciles a poor man to his lot, and, what is more, to the better
lot of his neighbor, thus to have parks and pleasure-grounds thrown open
for his recreation. He breathes the pure air as freely and lolls as
luxuriously under the shade as the lord of the soil; and if he has not the
privilege of calling all that he sees his own, he has not, at the same
time, the trouble of paying for it and keeping it in order.</p>
<p>I now found myself among noble avenues of oaks and elms, whose vast size
bespoke the growth of centuries. The wind sounded solemnly among their
branches, and the rooks cawed from their hereditary nests in the
tree-tops. The eye ranged through a long lessening vista, with nothing to
interrupt the view but a distant statue and a vagrant deer stalking like a
shadow across the opening.</p>
<p>There is something about these stately old avenues that has the effect of
Gothic architecture, not merely from the pretended similarity of form, but
from their bearing the evidence of long duration, and of having had their
origin in a period of time with which we associate ideas of romantic
grandeur. They betoken also the long-settled dignity and
proudly-concentrated independence of an ancient family; and I have heard a
worthy but aristocratic old friend observe, when speaking of the sumptuous
palaces of modern gentry, that "money could do much with stone and mortar,
but thank Heaven! there was no such thing as suddenly building up an
avenue of oaks."</p>
<p>It was from wandering in early life among this rich scenery, and about the
romantic solitudes of the adjoining park of Fullbroke, which then formed a
part of the Lucy estate, that some of Shakepeare's commentators have
supposed he derived his noble forest meditations of Jaques and the
enchanting woodland pictures in "As You Like It." It is in lonely
wanderings through such scenes that the mind drinks deep but quiet
draughts of inspiration, and becomes intensely sensible of the beauty and
majesty of Nature. The imagination kindles into reverie and rapture, vague
but exquisite images and ideas keep breaking upon it, and we revel in a
mute and almost incommunicable luxury of thought. It was in some such
mood, and perhaps under one of those very trees before me, which threw
their broad shades over the grassy banks and quivering waters of the Avon,
that the poet's fancy may have sallied forth into that little song which
breathes the very soul of a rural voluptuary</p>
<p>Unto the greenwood tree,<br/>
Who loves to lie with me<br/>
And tune his merry throat<br/>
Unto the sweet bird's note,<br/>
Come hither, come hither, come hither.<br/>
Here shall he see<br/>
No enemy,<br/>
But winter and rough weather.<br/></p>
<p>I had now come in sight of the house. It is a large building of brick with
stone quoins, and is in the Gothic style of Queen Elizabeth's day, having
been built in the first year of her reign. The exterior remains very
nearly in its original state, and may be considered a fair specimen of the
residence of a wealthy country gentleman of those days. A great gateway
opens from the park into a kind of courtyard in front of the house,
ornamented with a grassplot, shrubs, and flower-beds. The gateway is in
imitation of the ancient barbacan, being a kind of outpost and flanked by
towers, though evidently for mere ornament, instead of defence. The front
of the house is completely in the old style with stone-shafted casements,
a great bow-window of heavy stone-work, and a portal with armorial
bearings over it carved in stone. At each corner of the building is an
octagon tower surmounted by a gilt ball and weather-cock.</p>
<p>The Avon, which winds through the park, makes a bend just at the foot of a
gently-sloping bank which sweeps down from the rear of the house. Large
herds of deer were feeding or reposing upon its borders, and swans were
sailing majestically upon its bosom. As I contemplated the venerable old
mansion I called to mind Falstaff's encomium on Justice Shallow's abode,
and the affected indifference and real vanity of the latter:</p>
<p>"Falstaff. You have a goodly dwelling and a rich. Shallow. Barren, barren,
barren; beggars all, beggars all, Sir John:—marry, good air."</p>
<p>Whatever may have been the joviality of the old mansion in the days of
Shakespeare, it had now an air of stillness and solitude. The great iron
gateway that opened into the courtyard was locked, there was no show of
servants bustling about the place; the deer gazed quietly at me as I
passed, being no longer harried by the moss-troopers of Stratford. The
only sign of domestic life that I met with was a white cat stealing with
wary look and stealthy pace towards the stables, as if on some nefarious
expedition. I must not omit to mention the carcass of a scoundrel crow
which I saw suspended against the barn-wall, as it shows that the Lucys
still inherit that lordly abhorrence of poachers and maintain that
rigorous exercise of territorial power which was so strenuously manifested
in the case of the bard.</p>
<p>After prowling about for some time, I at length found my way to a lateral
portal, which was the every-day entrance to the mansion. I was courteously
received by a worthy old housekeeper, who, with the civility and
communicativeness of her order, showed me the interior of the house. The
greater part has undergone alterations and been adapted to modern tastes
and modes of living: there is a fine old oaken staircase, and the great
hall, that noble feature in an ancient manor-house, still retains much of
the appearance it must have had in the days of Shakespeare. The ceiling is
arched and lofty, and at one end is a gallery in which stands an organ.
The weapons and trophies of the chase, which formerly adorned the hall of
a country gentleman, have made way for family portraits. There is a wide,
hospitable fireplace, calculated for an ample old-fashioned wood fire,
formerly the rallying-place of winter festivity. On the opposite side of
the hall is the huge Gothic bow-window, with stone shafts, which looks out
upon the courtyard. Here are emblazoned in stained glass the armorial
bearings of the Lucy family for many generations, some being dated in
1558. I was delighted to observe in the quarterings the three white luces
by which the character of Sir Thomas was first identified with that of
Justice Shallow. They are mentioned in the first scene of the "Merry Wives
of Windsor," where the justice, is in a rage with Falstaff for having
"beaten his men, killed his deer, and broken into his lodge." The poet had
no doubt the offences of himself and his comrades in mind at the time, and
we may suppose the family pride and vindictive threats of the puissant
Shallow to be a caricature of the pompous indignation of Sir Thomas.</p>
<p>"Shallow. Sir Hugh, persuade me not: I will make a Star Chamber matter of
it; if he were twenty John Falstaffs, he shall not abuse Sir Robert
Shallow, Esq.</p>
<p>Slender. In the county of Gloster, justice of peace and coram.</p>
<p>Shallow. Ay, cousin Slender, and custalorum.</p>
<p>Slender. Ay, and ratolorum too, and a gentleman born, master parson; who
writes himself Armigero in any bill, warrant, quittance, or obligation,
Armigero.</p>
<p>Shallow. Ay, that I do; and have done any time these three hundred years.</p>
<p>Slender. All his successors gone before him have done't, and all his
ancestors that come after him may; they may give the dozen white luces in
their coat....</p>
<p>Shallow. The council shall hear it; it is a riot.</p>
<p>Evans. It is not meet the council hear of a riot; there is no fear of Got
in a riot; the council, hear you, shall desire to hear the fear of Got,
and not to hear a riot; take your vizaments in that.</p>
<p>Shallow. Ha! o' my life, if I were young again, the sword should end it!"</p>
<p>Near the window thus emblazoned hung a portrait, by Sir Peter Lely, of one
of the Lucy family, a great beauty of the time of Charles the Second: the
old housekeeper shook her head as she pointed to the picture, and informed
me that this lady had been sadly addicted to cards, and had gambled away a
great portion of the family estate, among which was that part of the park
where Shakespeare and his comrades had killed the deer. The lands thus
lost had not been entirely regained by the family even at the present day.
It is but justice to this recreant dame to confess that she had a
surpassingly fine hand and arm.</p>
<p>The picture which most attracted my attention was a great painting over
the fireplace, containing likenesses of Sir Thomas Lucy and his family who
inhabited the hall in the latter part of Shakespeare's lifetime. I at
first thought that it was the vindictive knight himself, but the
housekeeper assured me that it was his son; the only likeness extant of
the former being an effigy upon his tomb in the church of the neighboring
hamlet of Charlecot.*</p>
<p>* This effigy is in white marble, and represents the knight<br/>
in complete armor. Near him lies the effigy of his wife, and<br/>
on her tomb is the following inscription; which, if really<br/>
composed by her husband, places him quite above the<br/>
intellectual level of Master Shallow:<br/>
<br/>
Here lyeth the Lady Joyce Lucy wife of Sir Thomas Lucy of<br/>
Charlecot in ye county of Warwick, Knight, Daughter and heir<br/>
of Thomas Acton of Sutton in ye county of Worcester Esquire<br/>
who departed out of this wretched world to her heavenly<br/>
kingdom ye 10 day of February in ye yeare of our Lord God<br/>
1595 and of her age 60 and three. All the time of her lyfe a<br/>
true and faythful servant of her good God, never detected of<br/>
any cryme or vice. In religion most sounde, in love to her<br/>
husband most faythful and true. In friendship most constant;<br/>
to what in trust was committed unto her most secret. In<br/>
wisdom excelling. In governing of her house, bringing up of<br/>
youth in ye fear of God that did converse with her moste<br/>
rare and singular. A great maintayner of hospitality.<br/>
Greatly esteemed of her betters; misliked of none unless of<br/>
the envyous. When all is spoken that can be saide a woman so<br/>
garnished with virtue as not to be bettered and hardly to be<br/>
equalled by any. As shee lived most virtuotisly so shee died<br/>
most Godly. Set downe by him yt best did knowe what hath byn<br/>
written to be true.<br/>
<br/>
Thomas Lucye.<br/></p>
<p>The picture gives a lively idea of the costume and manners of the time.
Sir Thomas is dressed in ruff and doublet, white shoes with roses in them,
and has a peaked yellow, or, as Master Slender would say, "a cane-colored
beard." His lady is seated on the opposite side of the picture in wide
ruff and long stomacher, and the children have a most venerable stiffness
and formality of dress. Hounds and spaniels are mingled in the family
group; a hawk is seated on his perch in the foreground, and one of the
children holds a bow, all intimating the knight's skill in hunting,
hawking, and archery, so indispensable to an accomplished gentleman in
those days.*</p>
<p>* Bishop Earle, speaking of the country gentleman of his<br/>
time, observes, "His housekeeping is seen much in the<br/>
different families of dogs and serving-men attendant on<br/>
their kennels; and the deepness of their throats is the<br/>
depth of his discourse. A hawk he esteems the true burden of<br/>
nobility, and is exceedingly ambitious to seem delighted<br/>
with the sport, and have his fist gloved with his jesses."<br/>
And Gilpin, in his description of a Mr. Hastings, remarks,<br/>
"He kept all sorts of hounds that run buck, fox, hare,<br/>
otter, and badger; and had hawks of all kinds both long and<br/>
short winged. His great hall was commonly strewed with<br/>
marrow-bones, and full of hawk perches, hounds, spaniels,<br/>
and terriers. On a broad hearth, paved with brick, lay some<br/>
of the choicest terriers, hounds, and spaniels."<br/></p>
<p>I regretted to find that the ancient furniture of the hall had
disappeared; for I had hoped to meet with the stately elbow-chair of
carved oak in which the country squire of former days was wont to sway the
sceptre of empire over his rural domains, and in which it might be
presumed the redoubled Sir Thomas sat enthroned in awful state when the
recreant Shakespeare was brought before him. As I like to deck out
pictures for my own entertainment, I pleased myself with the idea that
this very hall had been the scene of the unlucky bard's examination on the
morning after his captivity in the lodge. I fancied to myself the rural
potentate surrounded by his body-guard of butler, pages, and blue-coated
serving-men with their badges, while the luckless culprit was brought in,
forlorn and chopfallen, in the custody of gamekeepers, huntsmen, and
whippers-in, and followed by a rabble rout of country clowns. I fancied
bright faces of curious housemaids peeping from the half-opened doors,
while from the gallery the fair daughters of the knight leaned gracefully
forward, eyeing the youthful prisoner with that pity "that dwells in
womanhood." Who would have thought that this poor varlet, thus trembling
before the brief authority of a country squire, and the sport of rustic
boors, was soon to become the delight of princes, the theme of all tongues
and ages, the dictator to the human mind and was to confer immortality on
his oppressor by a caricature and a lampoon?</p>
<p>I was now invited by the butler to walk into the garden, and I felt
inclined to visit the orchard and harbor where the justice treated Sir
John Falstaff and Cousin Silence "to a last year's pippin of his own
grafting, with a dish of caraways;" but I had already spent so much of the
day in my ramblings that I was obliged to give up any further
investigations. When about to take my leave I was gratified by the civil
entreaties of the housekeeper and butler that I would take some
refreshment—an instance of good old hospitality which, I grieve to
say, we castle-hunters seldom meet with in modern days. I make no doubt it
is a virtue which the present representative of the Lucys inherits from
his ancestors; for Shakespeare, even in his caricature, makes Justice
Shallow importunate in this respect, as witness his pressing instances to
Falstaff:</p>
<p>"By cock and pye, Sir, you shall not away to-night..... I will not excuse
you; you shall not be excused; excuses shall not be admitted; there is no
excuse shall serve; you shall not be excused.... Some pigeons, Davy, a
couple of short-legged hens; a joint of mutton; and any pretty little tiny
kickshaws, tell 'William Cook.'"</p>
<p>I now bade a reluctant farewell to the old hall. My mind had become so
completely possessed by the imaginary scenes and characters connected with
it that I seemed to be actually living among them. Everything brought them
as it were before my eyes, and as the door of the dining-room opened I
almost expected to hear the feeble voice of Master Silence quavering forth
his favorite ditty:</p>
<p>"'Tis merry in hall, when beards wag all,<br/>
And welcome merry Shrove-tide!"<br/></p>
<p>On returning to my inn I could not but reflect on the singular gift of the
poet, to be able thus to spread the magic of his mind over the very face
of Nature, to give to things and places a charm and character not their
own, and to turn this "working-day world" into a perfect fairy-land. He is
indeed the true enchanter, whose spell operates, not upon the senses, but
upon the imagination and the heart. Under the wizard influence of
Shakespeare I had been walking all day in a complete delusion. I had
surveyed the landscape through the prism of poetry, which tinged every
object with the hues of the rainbow. I had been surrounded with fancied
beings, with mere airy nothings conjured up by poetic power, yet which, to
me, had all the charm of reality. I had heard Jaques soliloquize beneath
his oak; had beheld the fair Rosalind and her companion adventuring
through the woodlands; and, above all, had been once more present in
spirit with fat Jack Falstaff and his contemporaries, from the august
Justice Shallow down to the gentle Master Slender and the sweet Anne Page.
Ten thousand honors and blessings on the bard who has thus gilded the dull
realities of life with innocent illusions, who has spread exquisite and
unbought pleasures in my chequered path, and beguiled my spirit in many a
lonely hour with all the cordial and cheerful sympathies of social life!</p>
<p>As I crossed the bridge over the Avon on my return, I paused to
contemplate the distant church in which the poet lies buried, and could
not but exult in the malediction which has kept his ashes undisturbed in
its quiet and hallowed vaults. What honor could his name have derived from
being mingled in dusty companionship with the epitaphs and escutcheons and
venal eulogiums of a titled multitude? What would a crowded corner in
Westminster Abbey have been, compared with this reverend pile, which seems
to stand in beautiful loneliness as his sole mausoleum! The solitude about
the grave may be but the offspring of an overwrought sensibility; but
human nature is made up of foibles and prejudices, and its best and
tenderest affections are mingled with these factitious feelings. He who
has sought renown about the world, and has reaped a full harvest of
worldly favor, will find, after all, that there is no love, no admiration,
no applause, so sweet to the soul as that which springs up in his native
place. It is there that he seeks to be gathered in peace and honor among
his kindred and his early friends. And when the weary heart and failing
head begin to warn him that the evening of life is drawing on, he turns as
fondly as does the infant to the mother's arms to sink to sleep in the
bosom of the scene of his childhood.</p>
<p>How would it have cheered the spirit of the youthful bard when, wandering
forth in disgrace upon a doubtful world, he cast back a heavy look upon
his paternal home, could he have foreseen that before many years he should
return to it covered with renown; that his name should become the boast
and glory of his native place; that his ashes should be religiously
guarded as its most precious treasure; and that its lessening spire, on
which his eyes were fixed in tearful contemplation, should one day become
the beacon towering amidst the gentle landscape to guide the literary
pilgrim of every nation to his tomb!</p>
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