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<h2> ITALIAN WITHOUT A MASTER </h2>
<p>It is almost a fortnight now that I am domiciled in a medieval villa in
the country, a mile or two from Florence. I cannot speak the language; I
am too old not to learn how, also too busy when I am busy, and too
indolent when I am not; wherefore some will imagine that I am having a
dull time of it. But it is not so. The "help" are all natives; they talk
Italian to me, I answer in English; I do not understand them, they do not
understand me, consequently no harm is done, and everybody is satisfied.
In order to be just and fair, I throw in an Italian word when I have one,
and this has a good influence. I get the word out of the morning paper. I
have to use it while it is fresh, for I find that Italian words do not
keep in this climate. They fade toward night, and next morning they are
gone. But it is no matter; I get a new one out of the paper before
breakfast, and thrill the domestics with it while it lasts. I have no
dictionary, and I do not want one; I can select words by the sound, or by
orthographic aspect. Many of them have French or German or English look,
and these are the ones I enslave for the day's service. That is, as a
rule. Not always. If I find a learnable phrase that has an imposing look
and warbles musically along I do not care to know the meaning of it; I pay
it out to the first applicant, knowing that if I pronounce it carefully HE
will understand it, and that's enough.</p>
<p>Yesterday's word was AVANTI. It sounds Shakespearian, and probably means
Avaunt and quit my sight. Today I have a whole phrase: SONO
DISPIACENTISSIMO. I do not know what it means, but it seems to fit in
everywhere and give satisfaction. Although as a rule my words and phrases
are good for one day and train only, I have several that stay by me all
the time, for some unknown reason, and these come very handy when I get
into a long conversation and need things to fire up with in monotonous
stretches. One of the best ones is DOV' `E IL GATTO. It nearly always
produces a pleasant surprise, therefore I save it up for places where I
want to express applause or admiration. The fourth word has a French
sound, and I think the phrase means "that takes the cake."</p>
<p>During my first week in the deep and dreamy stillness of this woodsy and
flowery place I was without news of the outside world, and was well
content without it. It has been four weeks since I had seen a newspaper,
and this lack seemed to give life a new charm and grace, and to saturate
it with a feeling verging upon actual delight. Then came a change that was
to be expected: the appetite for news began to rise again, after this
invigorating rest. I had to feed it, but I was not willing to let it make
me its helpless slave again; I determined to put it on a diet, and a
strict and limited one. So I examined an Italian paper, with the idea of
feeding it on that, and on that exclusively. On that exclusively, and
without help of a dictionary. In this way I should surely be well
protected against overloading and indigestion.</p>
<p>A glance at the telegraphic page filled me with encouragement. There were
no scare-heads. That was good—supremely good. But there were
headings—one-liners and two-liners—and that was good too; for
without these, one must do as one does with a German paper—pay our
precious time in finding out what an article is about, only to discover,
in many cases, that there is nothing in it of interest to you. The
headline is a valuable thing.</p>
<p>Necessarily we are all fond of murders, scandals, swindles, robberies,
explosions, collisions, and all such things, when we knew the people, and
when they are neighbors and friends, but when they are strangers we do not
get any great pleasure out of them, as a rule. Now the trouble with an
American paper is that it has no discrimination; it rakes the whole earth
for blood and garbage, and the result is that you are daily overfed and
suffer a surfeit. By habit you stow this muck every day, but you come by
and by to take no vital interest in it—indeed, you almost get tired
of it. As a rule, forty-nine-fiftieths of it concerns strangers only—people
away off yonder, a thousand miles, two thousand miles, ten thousand miles
from where you are. Why, when you come to think of it, who cares what
becomes of those people? I would not give the assassination of one
personal friend for a whole massacre of those others. And, to my mind, one
relative or neighbor mixed up in a scandal is more interesting than a
whole Sodom and Gomorrah of outlanders gone rotten. Give me the home
product every time.</p>
<p>Very well. I saw at a glance that the Florentine paper would suit me: five
out of six of its scandals and tragedies were local; they were adventures
of one's very neighbors, one might almost say one's friends. In the matter
of world news there was not too much, but just about enough. I subscribed.
I have had no occasion to regret it. Every morning I get all the news I
need for the day; sometimes from the headlines, sometimes from the text. I
have never had to call for a dictionary yet. I read the paper with ease.
Often I do not quite understand, often some of the details escape me, but
no matter, I get the idea. I will cut out a passage or two, then you see
how limpid the language is:</p>
<p>Il ritorno dei Beati d'Italia</p>
<p>Elargizione del Re all' Ospedale italiano</p>
<p>The first line means that the Italian sovereigns are coming back—they
have been to England. The second line seems to mean that they enlarged the
King at the Italian hospital. With a banquet, I suppose. An English
banquet has that effect. Further:</p>
<p>Il ritorno dei Sovrani</p>
<p>a Roma</p>
<p>ROMA, 24, ore 22,50.—I Sovrani e le Principessine Reali si attendono
a Roma domani alle ore 15,51.</p>
<p>Return of the sovereigns to Rome, you see. Date of the telegram, Rome,
November 24, ten minutes before twenty-three o'clock. The telegram seems
to say, "The Sovereigns and the Royal Children expect themselves at Rome
tomorrow at fifty-one minutes after fifteen o'clock."</p>
<p>I do not know about Italian time, but I judge it begins at midnight and
runs through the twenty-four hours without breaking bulk. In the following
ad, the theaters open at half-past twenty. If these are not matinees,
20.30 must mean 8.30 P.M., by my reckoning.</p>
<p>Spettacolli del di 25</p>
<p>TEATRO DELLA PERGOLA—(Ore 20,30)—Opera. BOH`EME. TEATRO
ALFIERI.—Compagnia drammatica Drago—(Ore 20,30)—LA
LEGGE. ALHAMBRA—(Ore 20,30)—Spettacolo variato. SALA EDISON—Grandiosoo
spettacolo Cinematografico: QUO VADIS?—Inaugurazione della Chiesa
Russa—In coda al Direttissimo—Vedute di Firenze con gran
movimeno—America: Transporto tronchi giganteschi—I ladri in
casa del Diavolo—Scene comiche. CINEMATOGRAFO—Via Brunelleschi
n. 4.—Programma straordinario, DON CHISCIOTTE—Prezzi populari.</p>
<p>The whole of that is intelligible to me—and sane and rational, too—except
the remark about the Inauguration of a Russian Chinese. That one oversizes
my hand. Give me five cards.</p>
<p>This is a four-page paper; and as it is set in long primer leaded and has
a page of advertisements, there is no room for the crimes, disasters, and
general sweepings of the outside world—thanks be! Today I find only
a single importation of the off-color sort:</p>
<p>Una Principessa</p>
<p>che fugge con un cocchiere</p>
<p>PARIGI, 24.—Il MATIN ha da Berlino che la principessa
Schovenbare-Waldenbure scomparve il 9 novembre. Sarebbe partita col suo
cocchiere.</p>
<p>La Principassa ha 27 anni.</p>
<p>Twenty-seven years old, and scomparve—scampered—on the 9th
November. You see by the added detail that she departed with her coachman.
I hope Sarebbe has not made a mistake, but I am afraid the chances are
that she has. SONO DISPIACENTISSIMO.</p>
<p>There are several fires: also a couple of accidents. This is one of them:</p>
<p>Grave disgrazia sul Ponte Vecchio</p>
<p>Stammattina, circe le 7,30, mentre Giuseppe Sciatti, di anni 55, di
Casellina e Torri, passava dal Ponte Vecchio, stando seduto sopra un
barroccio carico di verdura, perse l' equilibrio e cadde al suolo,
rimanendo con la gamba destra sotto una ruota del veicolo.</p>
<p>Lo Sciatti fu subito raccolto da alcuni cittadini, che, per mezzo della
pubblica vettura n. 365, lo transporto a San Giovanni di Dio.</p>
<p>Ivi il medico di guardia gli riscontro la frattura della gamba destra e
alcune lievi escoriazioni giudicandolo guaribile in 50 giorni salvo
complicazioni.</p>
<p>What it seems to say is this: "Serious Disgrace on the Old Old Bridge.
This morning about 7.30, Mr. Joseph Sciatti, aged 55, of Casellina and
Torri, while standing up in a sitting posture on top of a carico barrow of
vedure (foliage? hay? vegetables?), lost his equilibrium and fell on
himself, arriving with his left leg under one of the wheels of the
vehicle.</p>
<p>"Said Sciatti was suddenly harvested (gathered in?) by several citizens,
who by means of public cab No. 365 transported to St. John of God."</p>
<p>Paragraph No. 3 is a little obscure, but I think it says that the medico
set the broken left leg—right enough, since there was nothing the
matter with the other one—and that several are encouraged to hope
that fifty days well fetch him around in quite giudicandolo-guaribile way,
if no complications intervene.</p>
<p>I am sure I hope so myself.</p>
<p>There is a great and peculiar charm about reading news-scraps in a
language which you are not acquainted with—the charm that always
goes with the mysterious and the uncertain. You can never be absolutely
sure of the meaning of anything you read in such circumstances; you are
chasing an alert and gamy riddle all the time, and the baffling turns and
dodges of the prey make the life of the hunt. A dictionary would spoil it.
Sometimes a single word of doubtful purport will cast a veil of dreamy and
golden uncertainty over a whole paragraph of cold and practical
certainties, and leave steeped in a haunting and adorable mystery an
incident which had been vulgar and commonplace but for that benefaction.
Would you be wise to draw a dictionary on that gracious word? would you be
properly grateful?</p>
<p>After a couple of days' rest I now come back to my subject and seek a case
in point. I find it without trouble, in the morning paper; a cablegram
from Chicago and Indiana by way of Paris. All the words save one are
guessable by a person ignorant of Italian:</p>
<p>Revolverate in teatro</p>
<p>PARIGI, 27.—La PATRIE ha da Chicago:</p>
<p>Il guardiano del teatro dell'opera di Walace (Indiana), avendo voluto
espellare uno spettatore che continuava a fumare malgrado il diviety,
questo spalleggiato dai suoi amici tir`o diversi colpi di rivoltella. Il
guardiano ripose. Nacque una scarica generale. Grande panico tra gli
spettatori. Nessun ferito.</p>
<p>TRANSLATION.—"Revolveration in Theater. PARIS, 27TH. LA PATRIE has
from Chicago: The cop of the theater of the opera of Wallace, Indiana, had
willed to expel a spectator which continued to smoke in spite of the
prohibition, who, spalleggiato by his friends, tire (Fr. TIRE, Anglice
PULLED) manifold revolver-shots; great panic among the spectators. Nobody
hurt."</p>
<p>It is bettable that that harmless cataclysm in the theater of the opera of
Wallace, Indiana, excited not a person in Europe but me, and so came near
to not being worth cabling to Florence by way of France. But it does
excite me. It excites me because I cannot make out, for sure, what it was
that moved the spectator to resist the officer. I was gliding along
smoothly and without obstruction or accident, until I came to that word
"spalleggiato," then the bottom fell out. You notice what a rich gloom,
what a somber and pervading mystery, that word sheds all over the whole
Wallachian tragedy. That is the charm of the thing, that is the delight of
it. This is where you begin, this is where you revel. You can guess and
guess, and have all the fun you like; you need not be afraid there will be
an end to it; none is possible, for no amount of guessing will ever
furnish you a meaning for that word that you can be sure is the right one.
All the other words give you hints, by their form, their sound, or their
spelling—this one doesn't, this one throws out no hints, this one
keeps its secret. If there is even the slightest slight shadow of a hint
anywhere, it lies in the very meagerly suggestive fact that "spalleggiato"
carries our word "egg" in its stomach. Well, make the most out of it, and
then where are you at? You conjecture that the spectator which was smoking
in spite of the prohibition and become reprohibited by the guardians, was
"egged on" by his friends, and that was owing to that evil influence that
he initiated the revolveration in theater that has galloped under the sea
and come crashing through the European press without exciting anybody but
me. But are you sure, are you dead sure, that that was the way of it? No.
Then the uncertainty remains, the mystery abides, and with it the charm.
Guess again.</p>
<p>If I had a phrase-book of a really satisfactory sort I would study it, and
not give all my free time to undictionarial readings, but there is no such
work on the market. The existing phrase-books are inadequate. They are
well enough as far as they go, but when you fall down and skin your leg
they don't tell you what to say.</p>
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