<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</SPAN></span></p>
<h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2>
<h3>THROUGH WURTEMBERG TO THE FRONTIER</h3>
<p><i>Twelfth night.</i>—Owing to a village in front
of us, we had to make a late start. It was nearly
10.30 before we marched through without incident.
Later on that night, between 1 and 2 a.m., we
crossed the Iller at the large town of Illertissen, and
though there were many street lamps burning, we met no
one. This night's march and the next one were very
weary marches for me, as my feet hurt me most abominably.
Buckley was perfectly splendid, and though he
must have been very tired, he was cheerful and encouraging
the whole time. He allowed me to grumble, and did
nearly all the dirty work, the little extra bits of exertion,
which mean so much. We both of us found walking
uphill rather a severe strain, even though the gradient
was slight; still, we kept at it with very few rests all
night. Early in the night we stole some potatoes and
peeled and munched them as we marched.</p>
<p>About this time we took to singing as we marched.
Singing is, perhaps, rather a grandiloquent term for the
noise—something between a hum and a moan—which we
made. However, it seemed to help us along. Buckley<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</SPAN></span>
taught me some remarkable nursery rhymes. One was
about Jonah in the whale's belly, I remember; and we sang
these and a few hymn tunes which we both happened to
know. There was no danger in this—the sound of our
feet on the road could be heard much farther than the
song, and no one could possibly have recognized the
words as English.</p>
<p>After collecting a good supply of potatoes, we found a
comfortable place to hide in some small fir trees and
heather at the edge of a wood.</p>
<p>For some hours we were made rather miserable by a
heavy shower of rain, but when the sun came out towards
midday we soon dried ourselves, and then, as usual, lay
gasping and panting for the rest of the day. In undergrowth
it is hard to find shade from a sun which is
almost directly overhead. Our day's ration of water was
very small, and I am sure that lying in the sun for eight
or ten hours took a lot of strength out of us. I know that
we started each night's march parched with thirst. I
was, at this time, able to make a fairly accurate calculation
of the time it would take us to reach the frontier, and
found it necessary to cut down our rations once more.
We hoped to make this up by eating largely of potatoes,
for it was only too obvious that both of us were becoming
weaker for the want of food. Food—that is to say,
sausages, eggs, beef, and hot coffee—was a barred subject
between us, but I remember thinking of several distinct
occasions on which I had refused second helpings in pre-war
days, and wondering how I could have been such a
fool. We realized now that it would be necessary to lose<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</SPAN></span>
no time at all if we were to reach the frontier before we
starved.</p>
<p><i>Thirteenth Night.</i>—Accordingly, the next night we
walked through the village ahead of us at an earlier hour
than that at which we usually entered villages. We saw
and were seen by several people, but we walked at a good
steady pace, when necessary talking to each other in
German, and were past before they had had time to consider
whether we looked a queer pair. We must have
looked pretty good ruffians, as we had not washed or
shaved, and had been in the open for close on a fortnight.
About 3.30 a.m. we came to the large town of Biberach,
and in the outskirts of the town we climbed down to the
embankment from a bridge over the railway, and then
followed the railway in a southwest direction till nearly
5 a.m. We lay up in a small copse about 60 by 40
yards, at the side of the railway. It proved to be a damp,
midgy, and unpleasant spot, but we were undisturbed
all day.</p>
<p><i>Fourteenth Night.</i>—The next night we made an early
start, walking parallel with the railway, on which we considered
it dangerous to walk before 10.45, across some bare
cultivated land, and thereby gained half an hour. For the
rest of the night we followed the railway, passing through
Aulendorf and Althausen. This railway runs east and
west and is some 30 miles from Lake Constance. From
here, for the first time, we caught sight of the mountains
of Switzerland on the far side of the lake. A great
thunderstorm was going on somewhere over there, and
their snowy peaks were lit up continually by summer<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</SPAN></span>
lightning. I suggested, though I never meant it seriously,
that we should cut south and try and cross or get round
the east end of the lake. Buckley was all for the Swiss
border, and though we argued the pros and cons for a bit,
we neither had the slightest doubt that Riedheim, where
we eventually crossed, was the place to go for. Along the
railway at intervals of 2 or 3 kilometres were small houses,
inhabited apparently by guardians of the line, and always
by dogs. Sometimes we could steal by without arousing
attention, but usually the dogs barked whilst we were
passing and for ten minutes after we had passed. I have
never really liked dogs since—the brutes.</p>
<p>Once a man with a dog, and what looked like a gun,
came out after us and chased us for a bit, but it was all in
the right direction, and he soon gave it up. Once or
twice men called after us—to which we answered "Guten
Abend," and marched on. One of these threw open a
window as we were passing, and asked us who we were
and where we were going—"Nach Pfullendorf? Gerade
aus," I called back. "All right," he shouted, "there are
so many escaping people (Flülingen) these days that one
has to keep a lookout. Guten Abend." "Guten Abend,"
we shouted, and marched on.</p>
<p>Though, unfortunately, we were unable to find potatoes
that night, we were so cheered by the sight of Switzerland,
the promised land, and by our tactful methods with the
watchmen, that we made wonderful progress. Unfortunately
a bit of my map of that railway was missing. I
thought the gap was about 10 kilometres, but it turned
out to be nearer 20. We had hoped to pass Pfullendorf<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</SPAN></span>
that night, but did not do so. When we got into our
excellent hiding-place at the side of the railway, careful
measurements on the map showed us that it would be
quite impossible to cross the frontier on the next night,
as we had at one time hoped to do. We intended to get
within 10 or 15 kilometres of the frontier the next night,
and cross the night following. We did not wish to lie up
close to the frontier, as we knew from other prisoners that
the woods close by were searched daily for escaping prisoners.
During the day, which was most pleasant, we once
more divided our rations to last two more days. It was
a pretty small two-day ration for two men already weak
from hunger.</p>
<p>Our eagerness to get on, and the unpopulated country in
which we were, induced us to start walking at a still
earlier hour the next night.</p>
<p><i>Fifteenth Night.</i>—Soon after starting we saw a gang
of a dozen or more Russian prisoners escorted by a sentry.
They were about 100 yards off and took no notice of us.
After walking for about half an hour an incident occurred
which was perhaps the most unpleasant one we experienced,
and the fact that we extricated ourselves so easily
was entirely due to Buckley's presence of mind. Coming
round a corner, we saw ahead of us a man in soldier's
uniform cutting grass with a scythe at the side of the road.
To turn back would rouse suspicion. There was nothing
for it but to walk past him. As we were opposite to
him he looked up and said something to us which we did
not catch. We answered "Good evening," as usual. But
he called after us again the same words, in some South<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</SPAN></span>
German dialect, I think, for neither of us could make out
what he said, so we walked on without taking any notice.
Then he shouted "Halt! Halt!" and ran down the road
after us with the scythe. It was an unpleasant situation,
especially as we caught sight at that moment of a man with
a gun on his shoulder about 50 yards away from us on
our right. There was still half an hour to go before it
would be quite dark, and we were both of us too weak
to run very fast or far. There was only one thing to do,
and we did it. In haughty surprise we turned round and
waited for him. When he was only a few yards away,
Buckley, speaking in a voice quivering with indignation,
asked him what the devil, etc., he meant by calling "Halt!"
to us; and I added something about a South German pig
dog in an undertone. The man almost let drop his scythe
from astonishment, and turning round walked slowly
back to the side of the road and started cutting grass again.
We turned on our heels and marched off, pleased with
being so well out of a great danger, and angry with ourselves
that we had ever been such fools as to run into it.
We passed one more man in the daylight, but ostentatiously
spoke German to each other as we passed him, and he took
no notice.</p>
<p>Before dark we saw other gangs of Russian prisoners.</p>
<p>About 11 p.m. we got on the railway again, and walked
without incident for the rest of the night. Owing to the
gap in our maps, previously referred to, being longer than
we expected, it was not till well after midnight that we
passed through Pfullendorf and realized that we still had
another two nights' march before we could hope to cross<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</SPAN></span>
the frontier. It was not so much the walking at night
which we minded though we were both weak and weary,
it was the long lying up in the day time which had become
almost unendurable. For eighteen long hours we had to
lie still, and were able to think of little else but food, and
realize our intense hunger.</p>
<p>When I saw the name Pfullendorf written in huge
letters in the station, I felt a very pleasant thrill of satisfied
curiosity and anticipated triumph. We had always
called this railway the "Pfullendorf railway," and in the
past months I had often imagined myself walking along
this railway and passing through this station, only a
day's march from the frontier. For the last two nights
and for the rest of the journey my feet had become numbed,
and the pain was very much less acute. This made a vast
difference to my energy and cheerfulness. So much so
that for the last four nights I did the march with less
fatigue than Buckley, who seemed to be suffering more
than I was from lack of food. I have already mentioned
that we divided up the food, and each carried and ate
at his own discretion the food for the last three days.
When Buckley opened his last packet of chocolate, it
was found to contain less than we had expected. I
offered a redivision. Buckley, however, refused. I
think myself that the quantity of food in question was too
small to have affected in any way our relative powers of
endurance. Ever since we found potatoes Buckley had
eaten more of them than I had, and when we were unable
to find any, he felt the lack of them more than I did. Just
before dawn we climbed off the railway embankment to a<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</SPAN></span>
small stream. Here I insisted on having a wash as well
as a drink. Buckley grumbled at the delay, but I think
the wash did us both good. Soon afterwards, about
4.30 a.m., we came on an excellent hiding-place. Buckley
wanted to push on for another half an hour, but I considered
that a good hiding-place so close to the frontier
was all-important, and he gave in. As we were just getting
comfortable for our before-breakfast sleep I found
that I had left my wrist compass behind at the place
where we had washed. I determined to walk back and
fetch it, as it was an illuminate compass and might be
indispensable in the next two nights. That I was able to
do this short extra walk with ease and at great speed—I
even got into a run at one point—shows how much fitter
and stronger I was now that my feet had ceased to hurt
me. Our hiding-place was in a very thick plantation
of young fir trees, and we were quite undisturbed. The
place was so thick that when I crawled off 10 yards from
Buckley I was unable to find him again for some time,
and did not dare to call to him.</p>
<p><i>Sixteenth Night.</i>—Starting about 10.15 we followed the
railway as it turned south towards Stokach near the west
end of Lake Constance. Just before midnight we struck
off southwestwards from the railway. We soon found
that we had branched off too early, and got entangled in a
village where a fierce dog, luckily on a long chain, sprang
at us and barked for twenty minutes after we had passed.
Later we passed a man smoking a cigarette, and caught
a whiff of smoke, which was indescribably delicious, as
we had been out of tobacco for more than a fortnight.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>A couple of hours' walk, steering by compass by small
paths in thick woods, brought us into the main road to
Engen. Some of the villages, such as Nenzingen, we
avoided, walking round them through the crops, a tiring
and very wet job, besides wasting much time. At about
4.30 we were confronted with the village of Rigelingen,
which, being on a river, was almost impossible to "turn,"
so we walked through it, gripping our sticks and prepared
to run at any moment. However, though there were a
few lights showing, we saw no one.</p>
<p>About 5 o'clock we got into an excellent and safe hiding-place
on a steep bank above the road. A mile or so down
the road to the west of us was the village of Aach, and we
were less than 15 kilometres from the frontier.</p>
<p>We determined to eat the remains of our food and cross
that night. I kept, however, about twenty small meat
lozenges, for which, as will be seen later on, we were
extremely thankful. During our last march we decided
that we must walk on the roads as little as possible. Any
infantry soldier knows that a cross-country night march
on a very dark night over 10 miles of absolutely strange
country with the object of coming on a particular village
at the end, is an undertaking of great difficulty.</p>
<p>We had an illuminated compass, but our only methods
of reading a map by night (by the match-light, with the
help of a waterproof, as I have previously explained) made
it inadvisable to use a map so close to the frontier more
often than was absolutely necessary. I therefore learnt
the map by heart, and made Buckley, rather against his
will, do so too. We had to remember some such rigmarole<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</SPAN></span>
as: "From cross roads 300 yards—S. W. road, railway,
river—S. to solitary hill on left with village ahead, turn
village (Weiterdingen) to left—road S. W. 500 yards—E.
round base of solitary hill," etc., etc. Our anxieties
were increased by two facts—one being that all the sign-posts
within 10 miles of the frontier had been removed,
so that if once we lost our way there seemed little prospect
of finding it again on a dark night; secondly, the moon
rose about midnight, and it was therefore most important,
though perhaps not essential, to attempt to cross the
frontier before that hour. We left behind us our bags, our
spare clothes and socks, so as to walk as light as possible,
and at about 9.30 left our hiding-place.</p>
<p><i>Seventeenth Night.</i>—The first part of our walk lay
through the thick woods north of Aach, in which there
was small chance of meeting anyone. For two hours on a
pitch-dark night we made our way across country, finding
the way only by compass and memory of the maps. There
were moments of anxiety, but these were instantly allayed
by the appearance of some expected landmark. Unfortunately
the going was very heavy, and in our weak state
we made slower progress than we had hoped. When the
moon came up we were still 3 to 4 miles from the frontier.</p>
<p>Should we lie up where we were and try to get across the
next night? The idea of waiting another day entirely
without food was intolerable, so we pushed on.</p>
<p>The moon was full and very bright, so that, as we walked
across the fields it seemed to us that we must be visible for
miles. After turning the village of Weiterdingen we were
unable to find a road on the far side which had been<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</SPAN></span>
marked on my map. This necessitated a study of the map
under a mackintosh, the result of which was to make me
feel doubtful if we really were where I had thought. It
is by no means easy to locate oneself at night from a small-scale
map, 1:100,000, examined by match-light. However,
we adopted the hypothesis that we were where we
had thought we were, and disregarding the unpleasant
fact that a road was missing, marched on by compass, in
a southwest direction, hoping always to hit the village of
Riedheim. How we were to distinguish this village from
other villages I did not know. Buckley, as always, was
an optimist; so on we went, keeping as far as possible
under the cover of trees and hedges.</p>
<p>Ahead of us was a valley, shrouded in a thick mist.
This might well be the frontier, which at that point followed
a small stream on either side of which we believed
there were water meadows. At length we came on a good
road, and walking parallel with it in the fields, we followed
it westwards. If our calculations were correct,
this should lead us to the village.</p>
<p>About 1.30 we came on a village. It was a pretty place
nestling at the foot of a steep wood-capped hill, with fruit
trees and fields, in which harvesting had already begun,
all round it. Was it Riedheim? If it was, we were
within half a mile of the frontier, and I knew, or thought I
knew, from a large-scale map which I had memorized,
the lie of the country between Riedheim and the frontier.
We crossed the road and after going about 100 yards came
on a single-line railway. I sat down aghast. There was
no doubt about it—we were lost. I knew there was no<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</SPAN></span>
railway near Riedheim. For a moment or two Buckley
failed to realize the horrible significance of this railway,
but he threw a waterproof over my head whilst I had a
prolonged study of the map by match-light. I was quite
unable to make out where we were. There were, however,
one or two villages, through which railways passed, within
range of our night's walk. I explained the situation to
Buckley, who instantly agreed that we must lie up for
another night and try to make out where we were in the
morning. It was impossible that we were far from the
frontier. Buckley at this time began to show signs of
exhaustion from lack of food; so leaving him to collect
potatoes, of which there was a field quite close, I went in
search of water. After a long search I was not able to
find any. We collected thirty to forty potatoes between
us, and towards 3 a.m. made our way up the hill behind
the village. The hill was very steep, and in our exhausted
condition it was only slowly and with great difficulty that
we were able to climb it. Three-quarters of the way up,
Buckley almost collapsed, so I left him in some bushes
and went on to find a suitable place. I found an excellent
spot in a thick wood, in which there were no paths or
signs that any one entered it. I then returned and fetched
Buckley, and we slept till dawn.</p>
<p>At this time I was feeling fitter and stronger than at
any time during the previous week. I am unable to explain
this, unless it was due to the fact that my feet had
quite ceased to hurt me seriously.</p>
<p>At dawn we had breakfast on raw potatoes and meat
lozenges which I divided out, and then, sitting just inside<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</SPAN></span>
the edge of the coppice, tried to make out our position
from a close study of the map and the surrounding country.
In the distance we could see the west end of Lake Constance,
and a compass bearing on this showed us that we
were very close to the frontier. Through the village in
front of us there was a railway. There were several
villages close to the frontier through which passed railways,
and two or three of them had steep hills to the north
of them. We imagined successively that the hill we were
sitting on was the hill behind each of these villages, and
compared the country we could see before us carefully
with the map. That part of the country abounds in solitary
hills capped with woods, and the difficulty was to
find out which one we were sitting on. There was one
village, Gottmadingen, with a railway through it, and
behind it a hill from which the map showed that the view
would be almost identical with that we saw in front of
us. Buckley thought we were there. I did not. There
were small but serious discrepancies. Then I had a
brain wave. We were in Switzerland already, and the
village below us was Thaingen. It explained everything—or
very nearly. Buckley pointed out one or two things
which did not seem to be quite right. Again then, where
were we? I think now that we were slightly insane from
hunger and fatigue, otherwise we should have realized
without difficulty where we were, without taking the risk
which we did. I don't know what time it was, but it was
not till after hours of futile attempt to locate ourselves
from the map from three sides of the hill, that I took off
my tunic, and in a gray sweater and in gray flannel trous<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</SPAN></span>ers
walked down into the fields and asked a girl who was
making hay what the name of that village might be. She
was a pretty girl in a large sun-bonnet, and after a few
preliminary remarks about the weather and the harvest,
she told me the name of the village was Riedheim. I
must have shown my surprise, for she said, "Why, don't
you believe me?" "Naturally, I believe you," I said;
"it is better here than in the trenches. I am on leave and
have walked over from Engen and lost my way. Good
day. Many thanks." She gave me a sly look, and I
don't know what she thought, but she only answered
"Good day," and went on with her haymaking. I walked
away, and getting out of her sight hurried back to Buckley
with the good news. "But how could a railway be there?"
I thought. "It was made after the map was printed, you
fool." On the way back I had a good look at the country.
It was all as clear as daylight. How I had failed to recognize
it before I can't think, except that it did not look a
bit like the country that I had anticipated. There was the
Z-shaped stream, which was the guarded frontier, and there,
now that I knew where to look for it, I could make out
the flash of the sun on a sentry's bayonet. Everything
fitted in with my mental picture of the large-scale map.
The village opposite to us in Switzerland was Barzheim;
the little hut with a red roof was the Swiss Alpine Club
hut, and was actually on the border between Switzerland
and Germany. Once past the sentries on the river we
should still have 500 yards of Germany to cross before we
were safe.</p>
<p>The thing to do now was to hide, and hide in the thickest<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</SPAN></span>
part we could find. The girl might have given us away.
Anyhow, we knew that the woods near the frontier were
usually searched daily. Till 4 o'clock we lay quiet, well
hidden in thick undergrowth, half-way up the lower slopes
of the Hohenstoffen, and then we heard a man pushing his
way through the woods and hitting trees and bushes with a
stick. He never saw us, and we were lying much too
close to see him, though he seemed to come within 15
yards of us. That danger past, I climbed a tree and took
one more look at the lie of the land. Then Buckley and
I settled down to get our operation orders for the night.
For half an hour we sat on the edge of the wood, waiting
for it to become quite dark before we started.</p>
<p><i>Eighteenth and Last Night.</i>—It was quite dark at 10.15
when we started, and we had one and three-quarter hours
in which to cross. Shortly after midnight the moon would
rise. "I can hardly believe we are really going to get
across," said Buckley. "I know I am, and so are you,"
I answered. We left our sticks behind, because they would
interfere with our crawling, and rolled our Burberrys
tightly on our backs with string.</p>
<p>A quarter of an hour's walk brought us to the railway
and the road, which we crossed with the greatest care. For
a short distance in the water-meadow we walked bent
double, then we went on our hands and knees, and for the
rest of the way we crawled. There was thick long grass
in the meadow, and it was quite hard work pushing our
way through it on our hands and knees. The night was an
absolutely still one, and as we passed through the grass<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</SPAN></span>
it seemed to us that we made a swishing noise that must
be heard for hundreds of yards.</p>
<p>There were some very accommodating dry ditches, which
for the most part ran in the right direction. By crawling
down these we were able to keep our heads below the level
of the grass nearly the whole time, only glancing up from
time to time to get our direction by the poplars. After
what seemed an endless time, but was actually about three-quarters
of an hour, we reached a road which we believed
was patrolled, as it was here that I had seen the flash of
a bayonet in the day time.</p>
<p>After looking round cautiously we crossed this, and
crawled on—endlessly, it seemed.</p>
<p>Buckley relieved me, and took the lead for a bit. Then
we changed places again, and the next time I looked up
the poplars really did seem a bit nearer.</p>
<p>Then Buckley whispered to me, "Hurry up, the moon's
rising." I looked back towards the east, and saw the
edge of the moon peering over the hills. We were still
about 100 yards from the stream. We will get across now,
even if we have to fight for it, I thought, and crawled on
at top speed. Suddenly I felt a hand on my heel, and
stopped and looked back. Buckley pointed ahead, and
there, about 15 yards off, was a sentry walking along a
footpath on the bank of the stream. He appeared to have
no rifle, and had probably just been relieved from his post.
He passed without seeing us. One last spurt and we were
in the stream (it was only a few feet broad), and up the
other bank. "Crawl," said Buckley. "Run," said I,
and we ran. After 100 yards we stopped exhausted. "I<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</SPAN></span>
believe we've done it, old man," I said. "Come on," said
Buckley, "we're not there yet." For ten minutes we
walked at top speed in a semicircle, and at length hit a
road which I knew must lead to Barzheim. On it, there
was a big board on a post. On examination this proved to
be a boundary post, and we stepped into Switzerland,
feeling a happiness and a triumph such, I firmly believe,
as few men even in this war have felt, though they may
have deserved the feeling many times more.</p>
<p>We crossed into Switzerland at about 12.30 a.m. on
the morning of June 9th, 1917.</p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />