<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</SPAN></span></p>
<h2>CHAPTER II</h2>
<h3>ONE MORE RUN</h3>
<p>The night after we had left the German mess, both
Lee and Austin were so ill from stomach trouble
that it was impossible for them to think of escaping.
It was, however, in all probability the last night on which
we should be within walking distance of our lines, so I
determined to make the attempt by myself. Owing to the
nature of their illness, both Lee and Austin were compelled
to make frequent visits to the latrines, which were little
wooden huts about 50 yards away in the middle of the
compound. I also pretended to be ill, and went out each
time accompanied by a sentry, who usually came with us
the whole way; but Austin reported that one sentry had
allowed him to get 20 yards ahead, so I made what preparations
I could to escape. We had no map, no compass,
and very little food between us, but it was a starlight night,
and I thought I could scarcely fail to hit the coast. The
first three times I went, the sentry kept too close to me to
permit me to escape without considerable risk of an immediate
alarm, and as I hoped with luck and by a skilful
manœuvre to be past the outside sentries, if there were any,
before my escape was noticed, after due delay I returned
each time.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>The fourth time I went out, the more careless of the
three sentries came with me, and as he stopped for a
moment to say something to his mates, I walked on quickly
and got 20 yards ahead of him. When I came to the
latrine, I pretended to enter the door but actually stepped
behind the hut, and walked rapidly away, keeping the hut
between the sentry and myself. However, I had not gone
30 yards when he saw me. I heard him shout, so I ran.
I think he threw a stone after me, but he did not fire.
As a matter of fact, I must have been a very dim target
in that light by the time he had unslung and cocked his
rifle. I passed through a gap in the prickly pear hedge,
and just outside saw a small tent near which several men
were sitting round a fire. One of the camp pickets I
thought; but I passed without being seen and struck out,
walking and running alternately, across the marshy valley
of the Kishon, making to hit the coast somewhat south
of Cæsarea. At times I thought that the alarm had been
raised behind me, and twice the barking of dogs made me
think that I was being followed. Imagination plays one
strange tricks under circumstances of this sort when one's
nerves and senses are strung to the very highest pitch,
for this escape had been by far the greatest strain on my
nerves that I had ever experienced. It was so much worse
than any escape in Germany, because of the long, tense
hours while I waited for an opportunity, because I had
to go alone, and because the risks were greater and the
dangers and chances less calculable than in any previous
adventure. "Omne ignotum pro magnifico est."</p>
<p>It had been just about midnight when I left the camp,<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</SPAN></span>
and it was very little after 1 o'clock when I reached the rising
ground on the west side of the valley, near the valley of
Megiddo, after over 6 miles of very bad going. All that
night I pressed on at top speed, avoiding the villages and
meeting no one in that wild and desolate country. Though
I had to cross several small valleys, most of the time I
was climbing, and dawn found me on rather a bare exposed
part on the top of the ridge from which, when day
came, I saw the sea. It had been most difficult to pick a
good hiding-place, as there were no trees and very few
bushes; and some thickish heather behind a small boulder
was the best cover I could find. The country had appeared
so desolate at night that I hoped to find it quite uninhabited
in the day time, but I soon saw my mistake. From
about 6 o'clock onwards shepherds with their flocks wandered
on many of the distant hills, and a quarter of a mile
away down in the valley there were many small patches
of cultivation, where men were working. I made up my
mind that if chased by Arabs in that country in daylight
the chances of escape were nil, so I took off my boots and
went to sleep. About 8 o'clock I woke up and saw an
Arab with a rifle standing about 10 yards off looking at
me. His appearance in every sense was most unexceptionally
unpleasant. I nodded to him as he came up, and
said <i>Guten Tag</i>, and motioned to him to sit down beside
me. He sat down and made some unintelligible remarks
to me, to which I answered in German, and offered him
a cigarette. He smoked for a bit, and things seemed to
me to be going rather well. Then he started talking again,
and kept on repeating some words which I suddenly<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</SPAN></span>
recognized as Jenin, the name of the German aerodrome
about 4 miles away. I jumped at that and said, "Ja
ja, Deitscher—Jenin tiara (Turkish for aeroplane) boom,
boom," and pointed to myself, by which he was supposed
to understand that I was a German flying man from Jenin
aerodrome, and my natural habits were bomb dropping.
He seemed to grasp this, and after smoking another cigarette
went away over the brow of the hill, to my great
relief. Soon after his departure I selected another hiding-place,
about 100 yards away, and crawled into it on my
hands and knees. Even if he had come back to look for
me (for I thought he might put two and two together if
he learnt during the day that a prisoner had escaped),
I doubt if he would have found me without the help of
a dog.</p>
<p>All that day—and the day seemed endless—I lay in the
broiling sun and suffered very greatly from thirst; for I
had had nothing to drink since about 2 o'clock on the
previous night. The only food I had with me was half
a pound of bread and about the same amount of dried
greengages, a food much eaten by the Turkish soldiers and
quite nourishing. However, I was far too thirsty to eat.
During the day I saw some German aeroplanes flying
low over the countryside, and thought that perhaps they
were looking for me, as I found out afterwards was the
case. Being an airman myself, I knew that their chance
of finding me if I lay still was just nil, and watching them
helped to pass the time. During the day I almost changed
my mind and decided to go due south to our lines, but<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</SPAN></span>
the sight of the sea was so attractive that I determined to
keep on in that direction.</p>
<p>The next night's walk was the most terrible experience
that I have ever had. All night, till 4.30 the next morning,
I found no water, and without water I could scarcely
eat. Towards morning I could only breathe with difficulty,
my tongue and throat seemed to have swollen, and I
made a harsh whistling noise when I breathed. I tried
sucking various herbs, and eventually tried the leaves of
the cactus, which seemed to give momentary relief, so I
put some bits of it in my pocket. The loneliness was
oppressive past all belief and I longed for a companion,
but the only noises were the occasional bark of a dog from
an Arab village and the almost continual wailing of the
jackals. The going was for the most part very bad,
always up or down hill, and was made more difficult by
the clouds which obscured the moon for a good part of
the night. In one valley which I had to cross, the ground,
for a mile or more, was strewn thickly with loose boulders,
varying in size from a football to a grand piano. The
boulders lay on loose shingle so that they slipped or moved
if you stepped on them, and in the cracks and crevices
between the boulders were thick thorn bushes. In my
exhausted state and in the dim light, it was a nightmare
getting through this place. I fell repeatedly trying to
jump from one boulder to another, and my clothes were
much torn and my face and hands were bleeding freely
before I got out of that dreadful place. Once I collapsed,
and as I lay on the ground I fell asleep. Half an hour
later I woke and, feeling rather better, pushed on again.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</SPAN></span>
About 3.30 a.m. I got through the hills and on to the flat
country which borders the coast. If I could have found
water earlier I believe I should have reached the coast that
night, but it was not till about 4.30 a.m. that I found a
square hole in a rock half full of water. I drank that dry.
A few hundred yards farther on I heard men talking, and
going forward cautiously saw Turkish soldiers seated
round a small fire. Making a detour, I marched on for
half a mile and then heard a man call out on my right.
There was only a dim light, as the moon was half hidden
by clouds, and I could not see the man. Another man
answered him on the left, and I realized that I was passing
through a line of sentries. But if I could not see them
they could not see me, so I pushed on till I suddenly saw
a troop of cavalry advancing on me. I dropped to the
ground and curled myself round a small bush about 2 feet
high and lay quite still—it was the only possible thing to
do. The cavalry came straight towards me, and it was
not till they were 10 yards off that I saw that there was
only one horseman and that he was driving half a dozen
cattle before him. The cattle passed a yard or two to my
right and left, but the horse actually stepped over my head
without touching me. I felt most thankful when they had
disappeared from sight, and realized that I must now be
in the middle of a Turkish military area. However, as
there was no hiding-place of any sort to be seen, I walked
on once more, keeping a very careful lookout both for the
Turks and for a hiding-place. I soon found the latter. It
was a patch of corn about an acre in size, so I crawled into
it and lay down in the middle, feeling fairly secure. It<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</SPAN></span>
was a great pity to lose half an hour of darkness, but I
knew that an hour or two's walk would bring me to the
coast, and it might be difficult to find a better hiding-place
in that flat country. Once more I suffered a great deal
from heat and thirst, for I found to my surprise that corn
stalks give no shade from a sun which beats almost straight
down.</p>
<p>That evening it began to rain, and as soon as the sun
set it became pitch dark. When it was so dark that a
man could not be seen at 5 yards' distance I left my
cornfield and marched due west. I had taken my bearings
from the sun during the day, so that even if there were
no stars I should know by landmarks in which direction
I was walking. Soon all landmarks were blotted out by
the inky darkness and pelting rain, and I began to realize
that it might be possible to lose my way even when within
one hour's walk of the sea. Owing to the rain the
going was rather heavy, being mostly over cultivated land,
and when I had been walking for half an hour I began to
feel fearfully tired. I staggered rather than walked, and
could scarcely put one clay-laden foot before the other.
Quite suddenly I collapsed, and lay on the ground totally
unable to move. I managed to put my hand over my heart
and could feel that it was running most irregularly and
misfiring in the most extraordinary way. After about a
quarter of an hour it got much better, so I had a few
mouthfuls of bread and went on again. Before long I
came on a field of things that looked like beans. I tried
eating them, but they seemed to clog up my throat and
made me feel worse than before. For the next hour I<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</SPAN></span>
guided myself by the croaking of the frogs in the marshes,
which I knew ran parallel to the sea and only a few
miles away from it. When I reached the marshes it had
stopped raining, but the clouds were so dense that I could
see no moon or stars. I had rather a struggle crossing the
marshes, and in some places was up to my waist in mud
and water. Once my feet almost stuck, and as I dragged
them out the soles of both my shoes tore off the uppers.
I bound them on again as well as I could, and then walked
on again in the direction I thought was right. For the
next four hours I pushed on at a good pace, hoping against
hope that every step would show me the sea. But it was
not to be. My shoes were so uncomfortable that much of
the time I went barefooted, but there were many stones
and thistles about and I hurt my feet and made poor
progress. At about 3 a.m. I got a glimpse of the moon
and saw that I was walking northeast instead of west.
Heaven knows where I was or for how long I had been
walking in a totally wrong direction. For all I knew I
might have walked 10 miles from the sea in the last four
hours. Then the moon went in again and the rain came
on. Soon after that I ran into an encampment of some
sort and was chased by dogs; they followed me some way
barking, but did not attack me. Then I got tangled up in
more marshes, and in the darkness lost my direction again
hopelessly.</p>
<p>As it began to get light I found myself near some
quite nice-looking stone buildings, and sitting down in an
orchard in the pouring rain I debated what to do. I was
very exhausted, and most dejected at my ill luck. Our<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</SPAN></span>
lines could not be less than 18 miles away, so that even
if I hit the coast very early the following night I should
not cross the lines without two more nights' marching
and still worse two more days of lying hid. I was desperately
hungry and my food was almost exhausted. If
recaptured I could only expect very rough treatment, and
I wished to keep a little strength in hand to stand that.
Added to this, my feet were in such a condition that walking
was most painful. But that which finally made me
decide to give myself up was that for the last two hours
I had come across no spot which would serve as a hiding-place.
How I longed to have Buckley with me! If he
had been there I think we should have encouraged each
other to carry on for one more night at any rate. However,
I can't blame myself too much, as I was in a pretty
hopeless position. The remembrance of the whole adventure
annoys me beyond words. I was so near success.
That last night is to me a tragedy. What is to come is
sheer comedy.</p>
<p>The house where I had made up my mind to give myself
up was a square stone two-storied building with a wooden
veranda along one side. It was surrounded by a high
wall in which there was an iron gate. Finding the gate
shut, I turned my attention to a wooden outbuilding,
in one of the windows a faint light was showing. I
banged on the door, and after a minute or two it was opened
by a small dark man in trousers and shirt and bare feet.
He appeared rather frightened, and said some words which
I did not understand. I tried him in German, saying
that I wanted shelter and food. As I had had practically<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</SPAN></span>
nothing to eat for sixty hours, and was drenched to the
skin, he had no difficulty in guessing what I wanted, if he
did not understand. He went back into the room and
put on some boots and a coat. The room seemed almost
completely bare except for a number of people who were
sleeping, rolled in blankets, on the floor or on very low
beds. Soon the man came out again and shouted towards
the house in a language which I guessed to be Hebrew,
as there was no mistaking his nationality. After much
shouting a man of a most pronounced Jewish type came
to the gate. We had some difficulty in understanding each
other, as he spoke a thick and almost incomprehensible
German. He wanted to know who I was and what I
wanted, and when he learnt, much to his surprise, was
most unwilling to have anything to do with me. The
prospect of immediate food and shelter made me quite
callous about the more remote future, so I said he could
send for the Turks in the morning if he would only take
me in for the night. At that he opened the gate and
beckoned to me to follow him. After mounting some
wooden steps outside the house to the balcony he brought
me into a room which stank most horribly of stale humanity
and garlic. The room was quite bare except for two
beds and a sort of couch, on which men were lying rolled
in blankets. They gave me some incredibly disgusting
cold rissoles, mainly made of garlic, which nearly made
me sick; but I managed to eat two or three of them. In
this extraordinary household they all appeared to go
to bed in their day clothes, and looked and smelt as if
they had never washed from the day they were born. I<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</SPAN></span>
think they meant to be kind to me, but they were very
frightened and miserably poor in food and utensils of
every sort. They made signs to me to lie on a bed which
one of them vacated, so I took off most of my wet clothes
and fell asleep instantly.</p>
<hr style="width: 45%;" />
<p>I was awakened from my sleep abruptly by the blankets
being torn off my bed. A nasty-looking Arab, in a uniform
of a Turkish officer, was standing close to me brandishing
a revolver. A few feet away was a Turkish
sentry, and in the background the Jews huddled together
in the corner. The Arab took hold of my wrist and tried
to pull me out of bed. That made me mad with anger,
so I shook him off and damned his eyes, whereupon he
presented the revolver at my head. So I took hold of
myself and, obeying signs from him, got out of bed and
began to dress into my wet things. Seeing me more docile
he lowered the revolver and, seizing his opportunity,
patted me on the head to show there was no ill feeling.
My resentment at this was so obvious that he produced
the revolver again, but thereafter kept his distance. My
feet and my shoes were in such a condition that it was
clear that I should have great difficulty in walking. I
pointed this out to him and, whether at his order or out
of kindness—the latter, I think—one of the Jews brought
me a pair of old boots. Though the Jews had immediately
sent word to the Turks, I feel no violent resentment
towards them, as they were obviously frightened out of
their skins at my presence in the house. In other ways
I think they did their best for me, and were sorry for me;<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</SPAN></span>
owing to their extreme poverty they could not do much.
I suppose they just had licence to live from the Turks, and
that's about all. Even at the time most men would have
preferred infinitely to take my chances of life and treatment
rather than live under the conditions in which these
Jews were living. Poor brutes! But then I had the same
feeling about every Turkish soldier. Perhaps that is why
the Turks are so callous of life. They live so close to
the borderland where life becomes intolerable that it can
mean little to them to die. Just before we marched off
the Jews gave me some more of their disgusting meat, and,
when I reproached them for sending for the Turks so
soon, they answered that they were terrified and could
not help it. When we had gone a few hundred yards
from the house I saw suddenly that my wrist-watch was
missing. I made the Arab understand this by signs,
and let him know that I wanted to go back and fetch it.
He refused, and when I showed signs of obstinacy began to
finger his revolver. So we continued the march. I made
sure then that the brute had stolen it.</p>
<p>It was a beautifully fine morning, very fresh and
pleasant after the rain, and though my feet hurt me I was
much refreshed by the food and sleep. As I knew from
experience, alas! it was not till later that I should feel the
full bitterness of failure.</p>
<p>When we had gone about a mile we came on a sentry
standing beside the path. The Arab called to him and he
came up, a poor miserable underfed brute, and stood stiffly
to attention. Apparently the soldier had failed to arrive
in time to assist in my arrest. A few words passed, and<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</SPAN></span>
then the Arab hit him half a dozen blows in the face with
his hand. The man winced at each blow but remained at
attention, and then fell in behind. To see an unresisting
man hit in this way is a horrible and demoralizing sight,
and I felt quite literally sick with rage. A little farther
on a second sentry was treated in exactly similar fashion.
A walk of a little over half an hour, through comparatively
well-cultivated country, brought us to the Jewish colony,
the village of Hedéra. There were many evidences that
this colony had been a flourishing and pleasant little place
in times of peace. The houses were of wood or stone,
pretty and well built, and most of them stood in their own
gardens and there were many signs that a more civilized
race than the Turks or Arabs had been in occupation.
In an airy bungalow I was introduced to Ahmed Hakki
Bey, Turkish commandant of the place. He gave me a
seat as well as coffee, brandy, and unlimited cigarettes. A
Turk, who spoke French, acted as interpreter, and seemed
particularly anxious to impress upon me that the Turks
were not barbarians. First of all, I had to be identified.
There was some difficulty about this, as the description
of me which apparently had been circulated did not tally
in the slightest degree with the original. However, they
had little difficulty in accepting me as the "wanted" man,
though the commandant said he felt a little aggrieved that
I had no points of resemblance whatever to my official
description. I was treated by him with great consideration
and, after he had questioned me, more from curiosity
than for official reasons, he asked me if I wanted anything.
I answered that I wished to sleep and then to eat.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>I was led by the interpreter to a very small room in
which there was a bed and blankets. He was most anxious
to impress me with the generous and civilized way in which
I was being treated. "And yet," he said, "all Englishmen
say that Turks are barbarians, don't they?" "Ah
no," I answered, "only those who have not come into close
contact with the Turks may have a false opinion of them."
"Then you do not now think the Turks barbarians?"
"Since I have been a prisoner in their hands I have completely
changed my mind." As a matter of fact, in pre-war
days I always imagined the Turks to be rather good
fellows. I had already changed my mind, and I was
soon to be quite converted. The Turkish official is as
corrupt, cruel, unscrupulous, and ignorant as any class
on earth. That some of them have a thin or even fairly
thick coating of European civilization only makes them
in my opinion the more odious. I came across a few—a
very few—who seemed notable exceptions, but that may
have been because I did not have time or opportunity to
penetrate the outer coating of decency.</p>
<p>During this conversation I took off most of my clothes,
which were still very wet, and got into bed and soon fell
asleep. When I awoke the room was crammed with
people, who had come to look at me. I counted sixteen
at one time in that tiny room. Women came as well as
men, and I was subjected to a hail of questions, either
through the interpreter or by those who could speak German
or French. One of the Jews who had been my host
a few hours before came in and, seizing an opportunity,
whispered to me in German, "We did not take it; he did,"<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</SPAN></span>
indicating the Turkish officer who had captured me. I
knew he was referring to my watch, and determined to
complain to the commandant. The whole position was
most undignified, but I did not see how I could help it.
After all, I was being treated with a crude and barbarous
generosity which was rather astonishing.</p>
<p>About midday I was given food, and then brought once
more before the commandant. He was standing outside
his bungalow surrounded by a number of Turks and half
the population of the village, and made a speech to me,
which appeared to be most pleasant, and I gathered that
he was complimenting both himself and me on the signal
proof that had been afforded me that the Turks were not
barbarians. Both he and his interpreter had "barbarian"
on the brain. When he had finished I took the opportunity
of stating that someone had stolen my watch, and added,
very unwisely as I soon discovered, that I rather suspected
his officer. This was something of an anti-climax. However,
he soon recovered himself, and gave me a hasty
promise that he would investigate the matter. I abandoned
all hope of seeing my watch again.</p>
<hr style="width: 45%;" />
<p>The journey from Hedéra to Tulkeram was made on
horseback. To my disgust I found that the same Turk
who had arrested me, and whom I had just accused publicly
of stealing my watch, was to be my escort. The
officer and I were mounted, but we were accompanied by
two Turkish soldiers on foot, and I was astonished at the
way these men kept up with us. In spite of rifles and
ammunition and heavy clothes, and in spite of the heat,<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</SPAN></span>
these men kept up a speed of quite six or seven miles an
hour for the first six miles of the journey. After that
the Turk deliberately left them behind; keeping just
behind me he urged my horse into a canter, which we kept
up till we were well out of sight. By this time I had
made absolutely certain that the brute intended to murder
me, and my anxiety was not lessened when he drew a
large revolver and had pot shots at various objects by the
wayside. Of course he would have a simple and satisfactory
excuse for shooting me, by saying that I had attempted
to escape. About half a mile ahead, in the
otherwise flat plain, were two very low ridges which hid
the path we were following from almost all sides, and I
felt that it would be here that the deed would be done, and
I began to think out a plan for attacking him first and
then escaping in earnest. At the best, however, the situation
seemed to me pretty serious. Of course I may have
misjudged him, but I still believe he intended to murder
me. Just as we were crossing the first low ridge a small
caravan came round the corner. I breathed a prayer of
thanksgiving, and my Turk put away his revolver and
drew his horse up alongside of mine. For the rest of the
way we were, to my great relief, and as luck would have
it, never out of sight of human beings for more than a few
minutes at a time. However, as I said before, I may have
misjudged the fellow.</p>
<p>At a village a few miles north of Tulkeram we halted to
water our horses, and while we were sitting there eating
some food we had brought with us a German officer and
his orderly rode by. The German caught sight of me, and<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</SPAN></span>
coming across asked me in German if I was the English
flying captain who had attempted to escape. When I
answered in the affirmative he told me that I should not be
long a prisoner as the war would be over in three months.
"Why do you say that?" I asked. "Because," said he,
"our armies have been completely victorious in France."
At my request he gave me some details of the places that
had been captured, and added that to all intents and
purposes the war was over, and asked me what I thought
of it. I said that I did not put any reliance on German
<i>communiqués</i>, but that if it was true it looked as if the
war would last another four years. He left me feeling
rather miserable at the way things might be going in
France. I hated that German, so damned condescending
and superior. No man with any instincts of a gentleman
would have gloried over an unfortunate prisoner as he had
done.</p>
<p>About the rest of the journey to Tulkeram there is
nothing to add. I was received there by the very worst
and most unpleasant type of superficially civilized Turk,
and by a gruff and, I should think, efficient German intelligence
officer. After some questioning, I was put into
the charge of a Turkish officer of the intolerably stupid
type, with whom I very soon lost my temper completely.
He deposited me in a cell in what I imagine was the civil
prison. A sentry was left in the cell with me, whose
presence and dirty habits annoyed me beyond words.</p>
<p>By one of those amazing incongruities, possible where
the Turk rules and nowhere else, I found in a corner of
the cell three very fine new eiderdowns, and with these<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</SPAN></span>
made myself a comfortable bed and went to sleep. I was
awakened some hours later by three English Tommies
being brought into the cell. One of them was badly
wounded in the arm just above the elbow. The wound
obviously needed dressing, so after five exasperating minutes
I managed to convey to the sentry that I insisted on
seeing an officer immediately. When the same fool of
an officer turned up, his dense, imperturbable stupidity
nearly drove me mad. At length I turned my back on
him and lay down once more in my corner. When a man
has been starving he cannot satisfy his hunger at one meal,
and I was now desperately hungry. The strain through
which I had lately passed was as much nervous as physical,
and it had left me so irritable that I sometimes think that
I could not have been quite sane during that intolerable
never-to-be-forgotten three weeks' train journey to Constantinople.
I lost my temper daily, and several times a
day. But then the Turks are an irritating nation to a
prisoner with a spark of pride left in him. Even now it
makes me hot and angry when I think of the Turk, and
the hatred of Turkish officialdom is branded on my soul.</p>
<p>That night we, the three Tommies and I, left in a cattle
truck on the first stage of our long journey. They gave
me some food before we started, but no doctor came for the
unfortunate wounded man. I protested whenever I saw
anyone who could speak a Christian lingo, and promises
were given by superficially civilized barbarians that it
should be attended to. But result there was none.</p>
<p>The journey to Constantinople, with breaks of a few
days at Damascus and Aleppo, lasted, as near as I can<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</SPAN></span>
reckon now, for about three weeks. Many of the details
of time and place, I am almost thankful to say, I have
forgotten; but in any case I would not tell of the journey
in detail, not only for fear of boring anyone who has been
kind enough to read so far, but also because the memory
of the journey is abhorrent to me. I found out afterwards
that my heart had been considerably displaced by
my late exertions. I was tired, irritable, disappointed,
and ill; continually subjected to small indignities, which
are more unbearable than open insults; covered with lice;
unable to lie down for days on end; herded with Jews and
civil prisoners, and ordered about by a Turkish gendarme
or "dog collar" man, whose impenetrable stupidity nearly
drove me mad. In reality I suppose the hardships of
this journey were not very great, and many times in the
past had I suffered much greater privations and discomforts,
but never have I experienced anything so hard
to bear, or of which the memories are so unpleasant.</p>
<p>The first or pleasantest stage of the journey, as far as
Damascus, was made by the three Tommies and myself in
a closed horse wagon. At any rate I had the companionship
of some stout-hearted Englishmen, who bore their
troubles nobly and showed that unselfishness and cheerfulness
in adversity which is perhaps the greatest asset of
the British Tommy. The nights were very cold, and we
slept huddled together for warmth on the bare boards of
the filthy truck. I begged a log from the engine-driver
as a pillow, and managed to get a good deal of sleep in
spite of the cold. The days were pleasantly warm, and
to a certain extent I was able to forget my troubles in the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</SPAN></span>
struggle to get food and to obtain medical aid for our
wounded man. It was only after several days that I
got a doctor to attend to him. I managed it at last by
hailing some German soldiers whilst we were halted at a
station. They promised to do their best for us, and also
brought us good food. A little later a Turkish or Armenian
doctor turned up and dressed the man's arm, fairly
skilfully it seemed to me. He told me that the arm was in
a bad condition, and that the man should go to a hospital
at the earliest opportunity. I kept on trying to get medical
attention for the poor fellow, but with little result,
until we left him behind at some wayside hospital at a
place the name of which I have forgotten. I have never
heard whether his arm or his life was saved. Throughout
that journey the Germans without exception were good
to us and did all they could for us, and meeting them was
like meeting civilized men in a savage land. The German
privates several times—whenever they had an opportunity,
in fact—brought us food, good hot stew, and expressed
their contempt for the Turk in no measured
terms.</p>
<p>Our escort and the other occupants of the horse truck
were rather a grotesque crew. An Arab in full Arab
costume seemed to be in command. He was extremely
suspicious of me, and objected strongly when I talked to
the Germans, which I did at every opportunity. In the
day time, when it was futile to think of escaping, he
watched my every movement, and at night slept peacefully,
often with the door a few inches open, so that a
night seldom passed when I could not have escaped if I<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</SPAN></span>
had wished. It was grudgingly that I was allowed sometimes
to sit in the sun or walk up and down for exercise
at the numerous and prolonged halts. When I pointed
out that my feet hurt me and that I had no boots on, he
explained by signs that he suspected me the more for
having taken off my boots, and made movements with his
hands to show that a man could run all the faster without
boots. That made me so angry that I nearly hit him, and
a little later I managed to get hold of an interpreter to tell
him that, as I could escape any night I wished to while he
slept, he might give me a little more liberty in the day
time when escape was hopeless. Our relations remained,
to the end, rather strained. Then there was a big lout of
a Turkish sergeant, a kindly sort of fellow, whose main
diet seemed to be raw onions, lemons, raisins, and almonds.
There was also a particularly dirty Turkish soldier who
was seen and smelt but not heard. The most curious
member of the party was a filthy, ragged Arab beggar.
He possessed only two garments, both unbelievably dirty.
One was a coarse linen nightshirt, and the other a large
irregular-shaped piece of black cloth, which he wore over
his shoulders in the day time, while at night, sitting
huddled up into a small ball, he covered himself completely
with it. He had no hat, boots, stockings, money,
or possessions of any sort. I was under the impression
that he had been arrested as a spy by the Turks, but never
found out for certain. He seemed to be on very
friendly terms with my escort, and appeared to enjoy the
journey, depending for food on bits that other people did
not want. The Arab gave him all the liberty he wished<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</SPAN></span>
for, and he was most useful in fetching water and buying
food for us. He was just a cheeky, cheerful, ragged street-arab,
who seemed to know how and where to beg, borrow,
or steal the cruder necessities of life. He seemed to take
a special interest in me, and sometimes used to brush
down the place where I slept with his outer garment. He
also liked sleeping close to me, but I could not stand that,
and, though I felt rather ungracious about it, insisted on
him removing himself to a decent distance. For some
time I thought he might be one of our spies who wished
to communicate with me; but I don't think that was the
case, as he could have found endless opportunities of
speaking to me in private if he had wished to. I was very
curious at the time to know who he was and where he was
going, and always had a feeling that he was not quite what
he seemed. I never found out anything about him; I
wish I could, as I am still curious.</p>
<p>After a couple of days' journey from Tulkeram we
reached Afule, the place from which I had escaped.
Rather an angry crowd collected round the carriage when
it became known that I was there, and one or two Turkish
soldiers put their heads in at the door and cursed me;
for I believe the sentries from whom I had escaped had
received rather severe punishment. I have little doubt
that they had been cruelly bastinadoed, poor brutes.</p>
<p>Some German flying men and also some Turks came to
see me; the former from curiosity, and the latter to question
me about my escape. Had I bribed the sentry? "Of
course not," I said, "why spend money unnecessarily?
Any fool can get away from a Turkish sentry whenever<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</SPAN></span>
he wants to. I had had heaps of opportunities since my
recapture, but my feet were sore and I could not walk."
This statement gave them something to think about, the
more especially because it coincided with statements which
had been made by Austin and Lee when they had been
questioned. Their statements and the belief that Austin,
Lee, and I would repeat our opinions as to the incompetence
of all Turks, and especially of those at Afule,
alone prevented, as I now feel sure, any word of my
escape being forwarded to Headquarters. I received no
special punishment for my escape, which is perhaps just
as well, as I much doubt if I should have lived through it.</p>
<p>Of the rest of that tedious journey to Damascus I remember
only a few incidents, of which the following is an
example. At Deraah, the junction of the Damascus and
the Mecca lines, the train halted for about ten hours and
I was put in charge of the station-master. He was a dirty-looking
blackguard but not so stupid as most Turks, and
gave me to understand that he was very friendly. He
invited me to share his lunch and we ate together, dipping
our fingers into the same dish and fishing out lumps of
meat. There is nothing like real true hunger to tide over
a little squeamishness. When we had finished, he asked
me to write him a note to say that he had been kind to
British prisoners. He was convinced, he said, that the
British would soon be in Damascus, and that perhaps he
would be taken prisoner. I wrote on a piece of paper,
"This fellow, Station-master at Deraah, gave me food when
I was hungry—<span class="smcap">A. J. Everard</span>," and gave it to him: I<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</SPAN></span>
had been his guest, and was grateful for the meal. I
should like to know if he ever used my chit.</p>
<p>We arrived at Damascus very early one morning, and
were marched through the streets to the courtyard of a
hotel. They pushed the Tommies into a room absolutely
packed with stinking, filthy, crawling human beings.
They were mostly Turkish soldiers, military criminals I
should think, and only once in my life, at the main jail
at Constantinople, have I ever seen such a miserable,
famished, filthy crowd. I absolutely refused to enter
the room in spite of all threats, and at length they gave in,
and put a guard over me in the courtyard. Later in the
day all four of us were marched up to the main barracks
and I was lodged in a room with barred windows—I call
it a room, because it was on the second floor and had a
wooden bedstead and a mattress in one corner, but no
other furniture. The place was comparatively clean, and
I might have been much worse off. I asked that the
Tommies should be put into my room, but this was refused,
though I obtained permission to visit them. They
were in a long, narrow stone cell. The walls had at one
time been whitewashed, but now the whole place was
filthy. From the long side-wall boards sloped down to the
center of the room, leaving a narrow gangway. The
boards and the stone floor were filthy, and all over the
room a thick crowd of still filthier Turks slept or played
cards. What the place was I don't know, but it is just
possible that it was the Turkish guardroom, though it is
hard to credit it unless you have spent a little time in
Turkey as a prisoner. I did what I could for our poor<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</SPAN></span>
fellows, who were wonderfully cheerful; but it was little
I could do to make their existence a little more tolerable.</p>
<p>Twice every day I was conducted by George, a miserable
little Armenian with the fear of death on him, to a hotel
in the town, where I had my meals with Turkish officers,
and paid at reduced and very reasonable rates. The meals
were quite good and satisfying. I also found a small
library in the hotel in which there were several English
books which I borrowed from mine host—an Armenian,
of course. All business men of any description seem to
be Armenians in Damascus, and they one and all seemed
to be praying for and expecting daily and hourly the coming
of the English.</p>
<p>After a couple of days in Damascus, I felt so much
better that I began to turn my attention once more to
escaping. I broached the matter first to some Armenians
in the hotel, but soon saw that they were too frightened
to be any use. Next I tested my conductor, George, and
found that for years he had had the desire, but never the
courage, to escape. I cheered him on with promises of
prosperity if we succeeded, and two days later he told
me that he had got into touch with some men who would
guide us to friendly Arabs outside the town. We were
to escape disguised in two days' time; but, when questioned,
George was unable to produce any details or any
connected scheme of escape. I continued to press for
details, but when the day came he went dead lame, and
was so obviously in a blue funk that I called the matter
off. I don't believe for a moment that he had ever made
any arrangements for escaping. In any case I feel sure<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</SPAN></span>
I was right not to trust myself blindly to this miserable
little cur of an Armenian. Before I had time to discover
any more suitable conspirator—the next day, in fact—I
was moved off by train together with the Tommies in a
cattle truck, with about thirty other human beings, all
as dirty and smelly as possible, and all, I have no doubt,
covered with vermin, as I was by that time. Whilst at
Damascus I had a good opportunity of looking round the
town, with George as my conductor. The Arab thinks
of Damascus and the waters of Damascus as a sort of
heaven upon earth. Although it does not quite accord
with my idea of heaven, the place has for me a certain
fascination. The sight of water in plenty in a thirsty
land is in itself a pleasant sight. The shops too are exceptionally
good for that part of the world. Altogether,
making due allowances for the circumstances, I have quite
pleasant recollections of Damascus. The last day I was
there I tried to change some money, for curious as it may
seem, I had never been robbed of my money. I was unable
to come to an agreement with a robber of an Armenian
about the rate of exchange. George came in, in the midst
of the argument, and told me that he could arrange things
better for me. He led me by side streets to an insignificant-looking
little shop and introduced me to an old
man in rich clothing, who spoke French. This old man
was an Armenian, with French blood in his veins, I should
think, and offered to give me gold for my Egyptian notes.
He refused my thanks, saying it was a small thing to
do to help one who had risked his life on the side of the
Allies against the Turks.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>Of the journey from Damascus to Aleppo I am pleased
to say I remember absolutely nothing. We made a particularly
bad start, as I have said, being crowded at night
with from thirty to forty nondescript human beings into
a dirty cattle truck, so that I have no doubt it was as
unpleasant as the rest. At Aleppo the Tommies and I
were marched through the town to a big white stone fort
or barracks which stands on a hill above it. Here we were
separated, and it was not till some months afterwards
when one of them came as my orderly at Afion that I heard
of those good fellows again. They had had an awful
time, but I believe survived to the end, being strong men.
Of the fate of the wounded man they knew nothing. I
was brought up to the Commandant's private room. After
the polite formalities of introduction, together with cigarettes
and coffee, I was given a seat on a divan whilst the
Commandant submitted himself to be shaved. When this
operation was concluded, he politely offered me the services
of his barber, which I gratefully accepted. Feeling much
refreshed, I was led away and deposited in a very bare
and unpleasant cell. Just as I was preparing to kick
up a fearful row and give my celebrated imitation of an
indignant demi-god by kicking at the door and cursing
the sentry, the only method I found to be of the slightest
use in getting food or washing materials out of the Turks,
an officer appeared who conducted me back into the town.
After sundry intensely irritating vicissitudes, and after
losing my temper intentionally and unintentionally a
number of times, I slept that night in a passable imitation
of a hotel, and in a bed which was the cleanest thing I
had seen for weeks.</p>
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