<h2><SPAN name="chap20"></SPAN>CHAPTER XX</h2>
<p class="letter">
Voyage to Washington—Capitol—City of
Washington—Congress—Indians—Funeral of a Member of Congress</p>
<p>By far the shortest route to Washington, both as to distance and time, is by
land; but I much wished to see the celebrated Chesapeak bay, and it was
therefore decided that we should take our passage in the steam-boat. It is
indeed a beautiful little voyage, and well worth the time it costs; but as to
the beauty of the bay, it must, I think, be felt only by sailors. It is, I
doubt not, a fine shelter for ships, from the storms of the Atlantic, but its
very vastness prevents its striking the eye as beautiful: it is, in fact, only
a fine sea view. But the entrance from it into the Potomac river is very noble,
and is one of the points at which one feels conscious of the gigantic
proportions of the country, without having recourse to a graduated pencil-case.</p>
<p>The passage up this river to Washington is interesting, from many objects that
it passes, but beyond all else, by the view it affords of Mount Vernon, the
seat of General Washington. It is there that this truly great man passed the
last years of his virtuous life, and it is there that he lies buried: it was
easy to distinguish, as we passed, the cypress that waves over his grave.</p>
<p>The latter part of the voyage shews some fine river scenery; but I did not
discover this till some months afterwards, for we now arrived late at night.</p>
<p>Our first object the next morning was to get a sight of the capitol, and our
impatience sent us forth before breakfast. The mists of morning still hung
around this magnificent building when first it broke upon our view, and I am
not sure that the effect produced was not the greater for this circumstance. At
all events, we were struck with admiration and surprise. None of us, I believe,
expected to see so imposing a structure on that side of the Atlantic. I am ill
at describing buildings, but the beauty and majesty of the American capitol
might defy an abler pen than mine to do it justice. It stands so finely too,
high, and alone.</p>
<p>The magnificent western facade is approached from the city by terraces and
steps of bolder proportions than I ever before saw. The elegant eastern front,
to which many persons give the preference, is on a level with a newly-planted
but exceedingly handsome inclosure, which, in a few years, will offer the shade
of all the most splendid trees which flourish in the Union, to cool the brows
and refresh the spirits of the members. The view from the capitol commands the
city and many miles around, and it is itself an object of imposing beauty to
the whole country adjoining.</p>
<p>We were again fortunate enough to find a very agreeable family to board with;
and soon after breakfast left our comfortless hotel near the water, for very
pleasant apartments in F. street.<SPAN href="#fn7" name="fnref7" id="fnref7"><sup>[7]</sup></SPAN></p>
<p class="footnote">
<SPAN name="fn7" id="fn7"></SPAN> <SPAN href="#fnref7">[7]</SPAN>
The streets that intersect the great avenues in Washington are distinguished by
the letters of the alphabet.</p>
<p>I was delighted with the whole aspect of Washington; light, cheerful, and airy,
it reminded me of our fashionable watering places. It has been laughed at by
foreigners, and even by natives, because the original plan of the city was upon
an enormous scale, and but a very small part of it has been as yet executed.
But I confess I see nothing in the least degree ridiculous about it; the
original design, which was as beautiful as it was extensive, has been in no way
departed from, and all that has been done has been done well. From the base of
the hill on which the capitol stands extends a street of most magnificent
width, planted on each side with trees, and ornamented by many splendid shops.
This street, which is called Pennsylvania Avenue, is above a mile in length,
and at the end of it is the handsome mansion of the President; conveniently
near to his residence are the various public offices, all handsome, simple, and
commodious; ample areas are left round each, where grass and shrubs refresh the
eye. In another of the principal streets is the general post-office, and not
far from it a very noble town- hall. Towards the quarter of the
President’s house are several handsome dwellings, which are chiefly
occupied by the foreign ministers. The houses in the other parts of the city
are scattered, but without ever losing sight of the regularity of the original
plan; and to a person who has been travelling much through the country, and
marked the immense quantity of new manufactories, new canals, new railroads,
new towns, and new cities, which are springing, as it were, from the earth in
every part of it, the appearance of the metropolis rising gradually into life
and splendour, is a spectacle of high historic interest.</p>
<p>Commerce had already produced large and handsome cities in America before she
had attained to an individual political existence, and Washington may be
scorned as a metropolis, where such cities as Philadelphia and New York exist;
but I considered it as the growing metropolis of the growing population of the
Union, and it already possesses features noble enough to sustain its dignity as
such.</p>
<p>The residence of the foreign legations and their families gives a tone to the
society of this city which distinguishes it greatly from all others. It is
also, for a great part of the year, the residence of the senators and
representatives, who must be presumed to be the <i>elite</i> of the entire body
of citizens, both in respect to talent and education. This cannot fail to make
Washington a more agreeable abode than any other city in the Union.</p>
<p>The total absence of all sights, sounds, or smells of commerce, adds greatly to
the charm. Instead of drays you see handsome carriages; and instead of the busy
bustling hustle of men, shuffling on to a sale of “dry goods” or
“prime broad stuffs,” you see very well-dressed personages lounging
leisurely up and down Pennsylvania Avenue.</p>
<p>Mr. Pishey Thompson, the English bookseller, with his pretty collection of all
sorts of pretty literature, fresh from London, and Mr. Somebody, the jeweller,
with his brilliant shop full of trinkets, are the principal points of
attraction and business. What a contrast to all other American cities! The
members, who pass several months every year in this lounging easy way, with no
labour but a little talking, and with the <i>douceur</i> of eight dollars a day
to pay them for it, must feel the change sadly when their term of public
service is over.</p>
<p>There is another circumstance which renders the evening parties at Washington
extremely unlike those of other places in the Union; this is the great majority
of gentlemen. The expense, the trouble, or the necessity of a ruling eye at
home, one or all of these reasons, prevents the members’ ladies from
accompanying them to Washington; at least, I heard of very few who had their
wives with them. The female society is chiefly to be found among the families
of the foreign ministers, those of the officers of state, and of the few
members, the wealthiest and most aristocratic of the land, who bring their
families with them. Some few independent persons reside in or near the city,
but this is a class so thinly scattered that they can hardly be accounted a
part of the population.</p>
<p>But, strange to say, even here a theatre cannot be supported for more than a
few weeks at a time. I was told that gambling is the favourite recreation of
the gentlemen, and that it is carried to a very considerable extent; but here,
as elsewhere within the country, it is kept extremely well out of sight. I do
not think I was present with a pack of cards a dozen times during more than
three years that I remained in the country. Billiards are much played, though
in most places the amusement is illegal. It often appeared to me that the old
women of a state made the laws, and the young men broke them.</p>
<p>Notwithstanding the diminutive size of the city, we found much to see, and to
amuse us.</p>
<p>The patent office is a curious record of the fertility of the mind of man when
left to its own resources; but it gives ample proof also that it is not under
such circumstances it is most usefully employed. This patent office contains
models of all the mechanical inventions that have been produced in the Union,
and the number is enormous. I asked the man who shewed these, what proportion
of them had been brought into use, he said about one in a thousand; he told me
also, that they chiefly proceeded from mechanics and agriculturists settled in
remote parts of the country, who had began by endeavouring to hit upon some
contrivance to enable them to <i>get along</i> without sending some thousand
and odd miles for the thing they wanted. If the contrivance succeeded, they
generally became so fond of this offspring of their ingenuity, that they
brought it to Washington for a patent.</p>
<p>At the secretary of state’s office we were shewn autographs of all the
potentates with whom the Union were in alliance; which, I believe, pretty well
includes all. To the parchments bearing these royal signs manual were appended,
of course, the official seals of each, enclosed in gold or silver boxes of
handsome workmanship: I was amused by the manner in which one of their own,
just prepared for the court of Russia, was displayed to us, and the superiority
of their decorations pointed out. They were superior, and in much better taste
than the rest; and I only wish that the feeling that induced this display would
spread to every corner of the Union, and mix itself with every act and with
every sentiment. Let America give a fair portion other attention to the arts
and the graces that embellish life, and I will make her another visit, and
write another book as unlike this as possible.</p>
<p>Among the royal signatures, the only ones which much interested me were two
from the hand of Napoleon. The earliest of these, when he was first consul, was
a most illegible scrawl, and, as the tradition went, was written on horseback;
but his writing improved greatly after he became an emperor, the subsequent
signature being firmly and clearly written.—I longed to steal both.</p>
<p>The purity of the American character, formed and founded on the purity of the
American government, was made evident to our senses by the display of all the
offerings of esteem and regard which had been presented by various sovereigns
to the different American ministers who had been sent to their courts. The
object of the law which exacted this deposit from every individual so honoured,
was, they told us, to prevent the possibility of bribery being used to corrupt
any envoy of the Republic. I should think it would be a better way to select
for the office such men as they felt could not be seduced by a sword or a
snuff-box. But they, doubtless, know their own business best.</p>
<p>The bureau for Indian affairs contains a room of great interest: the walls are
entirely covered with original portraits of all the chiefs who, from time to
time, have come to negotiate with their great father, as they call the
President.</p>
<p>These portraits are by Mr. King, and, it cannot be doubted, are excellent
likenesses, as are all the portraits I have ever seen from the hands of that
gentleman. The countenances are full of expression, but the expression in most
of them is extremely similar; or rather, I should say that they have but two
sorts of expression; the one is that of very noble and warlike daring, the
other of a gentle and naive simplicity, that has no mixture of folly in it, but
which is inexpressibly engaging, and the more touching, perhaps, because at the
moment we were looking at them, those very hearts which lent the eyes such meek
and friendly softness, were wrung by a base, cruel, and most oppressive act of
their <i>great father</i>.</p>
<p>We were at Washington at the time that the measure for chasing the last of
several tribes of Indians from their forest homes, was canvassed in congress,
and finally decided upon by the FIAT of the President. If the American
character may be judged by their conduct in this matter, they are most
lamentably deficient in every feeling of honour and integrity. It is among
themselves, and from themselves, that I have heard the statements which
represent them as treacherous and false almost beyond belief in their
intercourse with the unhappy Indians. Had I, during my residence in the United
States, observed any single feature in their national character that could
justify their eternal boast of liberality and the love of freedom, I might have
respected them, however much my taste might have been offended by what was
peculiar in their manners and customs. But it is impossible for any mind of
common honesty not to be revolted by the contradictions in their principles and
practice. They inveigh against the governments of Europe, because, as they say,
they favour the powerful and oppress the weak. You may hear this declaimed upon
in Congress, roared out in taverns, discussed in every drawing-room, satirized
upon the stage, nay, even anathematized from the pulpit: listen to it, and then
look at them at home; you will see them with one hand hoisting the cap of
liberty, and with the other flogging their slaves. You will see them one hour
lecturing their mob on the indefeasible rights of man, and the next driving
from their homes the children of the soil, whom they have bound themselves to
protect by the most solemn treaties.</p>
<p>In justice to those who approve not this treacherous policy, I will quote a
paragraph from a New York paper, which shews that there are some among them who
look with detestation on the bold bad measure decided upon at Washington in the
year 1830.</p>
<p>“We know of no subject, at the present moment, of more importance to the
character of our country for justice and integrity than that which relates to
the Indian tribes in Georgia and Alabama, and particularly the Cherokees in the
former state. The Act passed by Congress, just at the end of the session,
co-operating with the tyrannical and iniquitous statute of Georgia, strikes a
formidable blow at the reputation of the United States, in respect to their
faith, pledged in almost innumerable instances, in the most solemn treaties and
compacts.”</p>
<p>There were many objects of much interest shewn us at this Indian bureau; but,
from the peculiar circumstances of this most unhappy and ill-used people, it
was a very painful interest.</p>
<p>The dresses worn by the chiefs when their portraits were taken, are many of
them splendid, from the embroidery of beads and other ornaments: and the room
contains many specimens of their ingenuity, and even of their taste. There is a
glass case in the room, wherein are arranged specimens of worked muslin, and
other needlework, some very excellent handwriting, and many other little
productions of male and female Indians, all proving clearly that they are
perfectly capable of civilization. Indeed, the circumstance which renders their
expulsion from their own, their native lands, so peculiarly lamentable, is,
that they were yielding rapidly to the force of example; their lives were no
longer those of wandering hunters, but they were becoming agriculturists, and
the tyrannical arm of brutal power has not now driven them, as formerly, only
from their hunting grounds, their favourite springs, and the sacred bones of
their fathers, but it has chased them from the dwellings their advancing
knowledge had taught them to make comfortable; from the newly-ploughed fields
of their pride; and from the crops their sweat had watered. And for what? to
add some thousand acres of territory to the half-peopled wilderness which
borders them.</p>
<p class="p2">
The Potomac, on arriving at Washington, makes a beautiful sweep, which forms a
sort of bay, round which the city is built. Just where it makes the turn, a
wooden bridge is thrown across, connecting the shores of Maryland and Virginia.
This bridge is a mile and a quarter in length, and is ugly enough.<SPAN href="#fn8" name="fnref8" id="fnref8"><sup>[8]</sup></SPAN>
The navy-yard, and arsenal, are just above it, on the Maryland side, and make a
handsome appearance on the edge of the river, following the sweep above
mentioned. Near the arsenal (much too near) is the penitentiary, which, as it
was just finished, and not inhabited, we examined in every part. It is built
for the purpose of solitary confinement for life. A gallows is a much less
nerve-shaking spectacle than one of these awful cells, and assuredly, when
imprisonment therein for life is substituted for death, it is no mercy to the
criminal; but if it be a greater terror to the citizen, it may answer the
purpose better. I do not conceive, that out of a hundred human beings who had
been thus confined for a year, one would be found at the end of it who would
continue to linger on there, <i>certain it was for ever</i>, if the alternative
of being hanged were offered to them. I had written a description of these
horrible cells, but Captain Hall’s picture of a similar building is so
accurate, and so clear, that it is needless to insert it.</p>
<p class="footnote">
<SPAN name="fn8" id="fn8"></SPAN> <SPAN href="#fnref8">[8]</SPAN>
It has since been washed away by the breaking up of the frost of February,
1831.</p>
<p>Still following the sweep of the river, at the distance of two miles from
Washington, is George Town, formerly a place of considerable commercial
importance, and likely, I think, to become so again, when the Ohio and
Chesapeake canals, which there mouths into the Potomac, shall be in full
action. It is a very pretty town, commanding a lovely view, of which the noble
Potomac and the almost nobler capitol, are the great features. The country
rises into a beautiful line of hills behind Washington, which form a sort of
undulating terrace on to George Town; this terrace is almost entirely occupied
by a succession of gentlemen’s seats. At George Town the Potomac suddenly
contracts itself, and begins to assume that rapid, rocky and irregular
character which marks it afterwards, and renders its course, till it meets the
Shenandoah at Harper’s Ferry, a series of the most wild and romantic
views that are to be found in America.</p>
<p>Attending the debates in Congress was, of course, one of our great objects;
and, as an English woman, I was perhaps the more eager to avail myself of the
privilege allowed. It was repeatedly observed to me that, at least in this
instance, I must acknowledge the superior gallantry of the Americans, and that
they herein give a decided proof of surpassing the English in a wish to honour
the ladies, as they have a gallery in the House of Representatives erected
expressly for them, while in England they are rigorously excluded from every
part of the House of Commons.</p>
<p>But the inference I draw from this is precisely the reverse of the suggested.
It is well known that the reason why the House of Commons was closed against
ladies was, that their presence was found too attractive, and that so many
members were tempted to neglect the business before the House, that they might
enjoy the pleasure of conversing with the fair critics in the galleries, that
it became a matter of national importance to banish them—and they were
banished. It will be long ere the American legislature will find it necessary
to pass the same law for the same reason. A lady of Washington, however, told
me an anecdote which went far to shew that a more intellectual turn in the
women, would produce a change in the manners of the men. She told me, that when
the Miss Wrights were in Washington, with General Lafayette, they very
frequently attended the debates, and that the most distinguished members were
always crowding round them. For this unwonted gallantry they apologized to
their beautiful countrywomen by saying, that if they took equal interest in the
debates, the galleries would be always thronged by the members.</p>
<p>The privilege of attending these debates would be more valuable could the
speakers be better heard from the gallery; but, with the most earnest
attention, I could only follow one or two of the orators, whose voices were
peculiarly loud and clear. This made it really a labour to listen; but the
extreme beauty of the chamber was of itself a reason for going again and again.
It was, however, really mortifying to see this splendid hall, fitted up in so
stately and sumptuous a manner, filled with men, sitting in the most unseemly
attitudes, a large majority with their hats on, and nearly all, spitting to an
excess that decency forbids me to describe.</p>
<p>Among the crowd, who must be included in this description, a few were
distinguished by not wearing their hats, and by sitting on their chairs like
other human beings, without throwing their legs above their heads. Whenever I
enquired the name of one of these exceptions, I was told that it was Mr. This,
or Mr. That, <i>of Virginia</i>.</p>
<p>One day we were fortunate enough to get placed on the sofas between the
pillars, on the floor of the House; the galleries being shut up, for the
purpose of making some alterations, which it was hoped might improve the
hearing in that part of the House occupied by the members, and which is
universally complained of, as being very defective.<SPAN href="#fn9" name="fnref9" id="fnref9"><sup>[9]</sup></SPAN>
But in our places on the sofas we found we heard very much better than up
stairs, and well enough to be extremely amused by the rude eloquence of a
thorough horse and alligator orator from Kentucky, who entreated the house
repeatedly to “go the whole hog.”</p>
<p class="footnote">
<SPAN name="fn9" id="fn9"></SPAN> <SPAN href="#fnref9">[9]</SPAN>
As a proof of this defective hearing in the Hall of Congress, I may quote a
passage from a newspaper report of a debate on improvements. It was proposed to
suspend a ceiling of glass fifteen feet above the heads of the members. A
member, speaking in favour of this proposal, said, “Members would then,
at least, be able to understand what was the question before the House, an
advantage which most of them did not now possess, respecting more than half the
propositions upon which they voted.”</p>
<p>If I mistake not, every debate I listened to in the American Congress was upon
one and the same subject, namely, the entire independence of each individual
state, with regard to the federal government. The jealousy on this point
appeared to me to be the very strangest political feeling that ever got
possession of the mind of man. I do not pretend to judge the merits of this
question. I speak solely of the very singular effect of seeing man after man
start eagerly to his feet, to declare that the greatest injury, the basest
injustice, the most obnoxious tyranny that could be practised against the state
of which he was a member, would be a vote of a few million dollars for the
purpose of making their roads or canals; or for drainage; or, in short, for any
purpose of improvement whatsoever.</p>
<p>During the month we were at Washington, I heard a great deal of conversation
respecting a recent exclusion from Congress of a gentleman, who, by every
account, was one of the most esteemed men in the house, and, I think, the
father of it. The crime for which this gentleman was out-voted by his own
particular friends and admirers was, that he had given his vote for a grant of
public money for the purpose of draining a most lamentable and unhealthy
district, called “<i>the dismal swamp!</i>”</p>
<p>One great boast of the country is, that they have no national debt, or that
they shall have none in two years. This seems not very wonderful, considering
their productive tariff, and that the income paid to their president is
6,000_L. per annum_; other government salaries being in proportion, and all
internal improvements, at the expense of the government treasury, being voted
unconstitutional.</p>
<p>The Senate-chamber is, like the Hall of Congress, a semicircle, but of very
much smaller dimensions. It is most elegantly fitted up, and what is better
still, the senators, generally speaking, look like gentlemen. They do not wear
their hats, and the activity of youth being happily past, they do not toss
their heels above their heads. I would I could add they do not spit; but, alas!
“I have an oath in heaven,” and may not write an untruth.</p>
<p>A very handsome room, opening on a noble stone balcony is fitted up as a
library for the members. The collection, as far as a very cursory view could
enable me to judge, was very like that of a private English gentleman, but with
less Latin, Greek, and Italian. This room also is elegantly furnished; rich
Brussels carpet; library tables, with portfolios of engravings; abundance of
sofas, and so on. The view from it is glorious, and it looks like the abode of
luxury and taste.</p>
<p>I can by no means attempt to describe all the apartments of this immense
building, but the magnificent rotunda in the centre must not be left unnoticed.
It is, indeed, a noble hall, a hundred feet in diameter, and of an imposing
loftiness, lighted by an ample dome.</p>
<p>Almost any pictures (excepting the cartoons) would look paltry in this room,
from the immense height of the walls; but the subjects of the four pictures
which are placed there, are of such high historic interest that they should
certainly have a place somewhere, as national records. One represents the
signing of the declaration of independence; another the resignation of the
presidency by the great Washington; another the celebrated victory of General
Gates at Saratoga; and the fourth….I do not well remember, but I think it is
some other martial scene, commemorating a victory; I rather think that of York
Town.</p>
<p>One other object in the capitol must be mentioned, though it occurs in so
obscure a part of the building, that one or two members to whom I mentioned it,
were not aware of its existence. The lower part of the edifice, a story below
the rotunda, &c., has a variety of committee rooms, courts, and other
places of business. In a hall leading to some of these rooms, the ceiling is
supported by pillars, the capitals of which struck me as peculiarly beautiful.
They are composed of the ears and leaves of the Indian corn, beautifully
arranged, and forming as graceful an outline as the acanthus itself. This was
the only instance I saw, in which America has ventured to attempt national
originality; the success is perfect. A sense of fitness always enhances the
effect of beauty. I will not attempt a long essay on the subject, but if
America, in her vastness, her immense natural resources, and her remote
grandeur, would be less imitative, she would be infinitely more picturesque and
interesting.</p>
<p>The President has regular evening parties, every other Wednesday, which are
called his <i>levées</i>; the last syllable is pronounced by every one as long
as possible, being exactly the reverse of the French and English manner of
pronouncing the same word. The effect of this, from the very frequent
repetition of the word in all companies is very droll, and for a long time I
thought people were quizzing these public days. The reception rooms are
handsome, particularly the grand saloon, which is elegantly, nay, splendidly
furnished; this has been done since the visit of Captain Hall, whose remarks
upon the former state of this room may have hastened its decoration; but there
are a few anomalies in some parts of the entertainment, which are not very
courtly. The company are about as select as that of an Easter-day ball at the
Mansion-house.</p>
<p>The churches at Washington are not superb; but the Episcopalian and Catholic
were filled with elegantly dressed women. I observed a greater proportion of
gentlemen at church at Washington than any where else.</p>
<p>The Presbyterian ladies go to church three times in the day, but the general
appearance of Washington on a Sunday is much less puritanical than that of most
other American towns; the people walk about, and there are no chains in the
streets, as at Philadelphia, to prevent their riding or driving, if they like
it.</p>
<p>The ladies dress well, but not so splendidly as at Baltimore. I remarked that
it was not very unusual at Washington for a lady to take the arm of a
gentleman, who was neither her husband, her father, nor her brother. This
remarkable relaxation of American decorum has been probably introduced by the
foreign legations.</p>
<p>At about a mile from the town, on the high terrace ground above described, is a
very pretty place, to which the proprietor has given the name Kaleirama. It is
not large, or in any way magnificent, but the view from it is charming; and it
has a little wood behind, covering about two hundred acres of broken ground,
that slopes down to a dark cold little river, so closely shut in by rocks and
evergreens, that it might serve as a noon-day bath for Diana and her nymphs.
The whole of this wood is filled with wild flowers, but such as we cherish
fondly in our gardens.</p>
<p>A ferry at George Town crosses the Potomac, and about two miles from it, on the
Virginian side, is Arlington, the seat of Mr. Custis, who is the grandson of
General Washington’s wife. It is a noble looking place, having a portico
of stately white columns, which, as the mansion stands high, with a background
of dark woods, forms a beautiful object in the landscape. At George Town is a
nunnery, where many young ladies are educated, and at a little distance from
it, a college of Jesuits for the education of young men, where, as their
advertisements state, “the humanities are taught.” We attended mass
at the chapel of the nunnery, where the female voices that performed the chant
were very pleasing. The shadowy form of the veiled abbess in her little sacred
parlour, seen through a grating and a black curtain, but rendered clearly
visible by the light of a Gothic window behind her, drew a good deal of our
attention; every act of genuflection, even the telling her beads, was
discernible, but so mistily that it gave her, indeed, the appearance of a being
who had already quitted this life, and was hovering on the confines of the
world of shadows.</p>
<p>The convent has a considerable inclosure attached to it, where I frequently saw
from the heights above it, dark figures in awfully thick black veils, walking
solemnly up and down.</p>
<p>The American lady, who was the subject of one of Prince Hohenlohe’s
celebrated miracles, was pointed out to us at Washington. All the world declare
that her recovery was marvellous.</p>
<p class="p2">
There appeared to be a great many foreigners at Washington, particularly
French. In Paris I have often observed that it was a sort of fashion to speak
of America as a new Utopia, especially among the young liberals, who, before
the happy accession of Philip, fancied that a country without a king, was the
land of promise; but I sometimes thought that, like many other fine things, it
lost part of its brilliance when examined too nearly; I overheard the following
question and answer pass between two young Frenchmen, who appeared to have met
for the first time.</p>
<p>“Eh bien. Monsieur, comment trouvez-vous la liberté et l’égalité
mises en action?”</p>
<p>“Mais, Monsieur, je vous avoue que le beau idéal que nous autres, nous
avons conçu de tout cela à Paris, avait quelque chose de plus poétique que ce
que nous trouvons ici!”</p>
<p>On another occasion I was excessively amused by the tone in which one of these
young men replied to a question put to him by another Frenchman. A pretty
looking woman, but exceedingly deficient in <i>tournure</i>, was standing alone
at a little distance from them and close at their elbows stood a very awkward
looking gentleman. “Qui est cette dame?” said the enquirer.
“Monsieur,” said my young <i>fat</i>, with an indescribable
grimace, “c’est la femelle de ce male, “ indicating his
neighbour by an expressive curl of his upper lip.</p>
<p>The theatre was not open while we were in Washington, but we afterwards took
advantage of our vicinity to the city, to visit it. The house is very small,
and most astonishingly dirty and void of decoration, considering that it is the
only place of public amusement that the city affords. I have before mentioned
the want of decorum at the Cincinnati theatre, but certainly that of the
capital at least rivalled it in the freedom of action and attitude; a freedom
which seems to disdain the restraints of civilized manners. One man in the pit
was seized with a violent fit of vomiting, which appeared not in the least to
annoy or surprise his neighbours; and the happy coincidence of a physician
being at that moment personated on the stage, was hailed by many of the
audience as an excellent joke, of which the actor took advantage, and elicited
shouts of applause by saying, “I expect my services are wanted
elsewhere.”</p>
<p>The spitting was incessant; and not one in ten of the male part of the
illustrious legislative audiences sat according to the usual custom of human
beings; the legs were thrown sometimes over the front of the box, sometimes
over the side of it; here and there a senator stretched his entire length along
a bench, and in many instances the front rail was preferred as a seat.</p>
<p>I remarked one young man, whose handsome person, and most elaborate toilet, led
me to conclude he was a first-rate personage, and so I doubt not he was;
nevertheless, I saw him take from the pocket of his silk waistcoat a lump of
tobacco, and daintily deposit it within his cheek.</p>
<p>I am inclined to think this most vile and universal habit of chewing tobacco is
the cause of a remarkable peculiarity in the male physiognomy of Americans;
their lips are almost uniformly thin and compressed. At first I accounted for
this upon Lavater’s theory, and attributed it to the arid temperament of
the people; but it is too universal to be explained; whereas the habit above
mentioned, which pervades all classes (excepting the literary) well accounts
for it, as the act of expressing the juices of this loathsome herb, enforces
exactly that position of the lips, which gives this remarkable peculiarity to
the American countenance.</p>
<p>A member of Congress died while we were at Washington, and I was surprised by
the ceremony and dignity of his funeral. It seems that whenever a senator or
member of Congress dies during the session, he is buried at the expense of the
government, (the ceremony not coming under the head of internal improvement),
and the arrangements for the funeral are not interfered with by his friends,
but become matters of State. I transcribed the order of the procession as being
rather grand and stately.</p>
<p class="center">
Chaplains of both Houses.<br/>
Physicians who attend the deceased.<br/>
Committee of arrangement.<br/>
THE BODY,<br/>
(Pall borne by six members.)<br/>
The Relations of the deceased, with the<br/>
Senators and Representatives of the State<br/>
to which he belonged, as Mourners.<br/>
Sergeant at arms of the House of Representatives.<br/>
The House of Representatives,<br/>
Their Speaker and Clerk preceding.<br/>
The Senate of the United States.<br/>
The Vice-president and Secretary preceding,<br/>
THE PRESIDENT</p>
<p>The procession was of considerable extent, but not on foot, and the majority of
the carriages were hired for the occasion. The body was interred in an open
“grave yard” near the city. I did not see the monument erected on
this occasion, but I presume it was in the same style as several others I had
remarked in the same burying-ground, inscribed to the memory of members who had
died at Washington. These were square blocks of masonry without any pretension
to splendour.</p>
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