<p>How violent the contrast I felt when passing from the laughing nature
and beautiful population of Kachmyr to the arid and forbidding rocks and
the beardless and ugly inhabitants of Ladak!</p>
<p>The country into which I penetrated is situated at an altitude of 11,000
to 12,000 feet. Only at Karghil the level descends to 8,000 feet.</p>
<p>The acclivity of Zodgi-La is very rough; one must climb up an almost
perpendicular rocky wall. In certain places the road winds along upon
rock ledges of only a metre in width, below which the sight drops into
unfathomable abysses. May the Lord preserve the traveller from a fall!
At one place, the way is upon long beams introduced into holes made in
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></SPAN></span>
the rock, like a bridge, and covered up with earth. Brr!—At the thought
that a little stone might get loose and roll down the slope of the
mountain, or that a too strong oscillation of the beams could
precipitate the whole structure into the abyss, and with it him who had
ventured upon the perilous path, one feels like fainting more than once
during this hazardous passage.</p>
<p>After crossing the glaciers we stopped in a valley and prepared to spend
the night near a hut, a dismal place surrounded by eternal ice and snow.</p>
<p>From Baltal the distances are determined by means of daks, <span class='italics'>i.e.</span>,
postal stations for mail service. They are low huts, about seven
kilometres distant from each other. A man is permanently established in
each of these huts. The postal service between Kachmyr and Thibet is yet
carried on in a very primitive form. The letters are enclosed in a
leather bag, which is handed to the care of a carrier. The latter runs
rapidly over the seven kilometres assigned to him, carrying on his back
a basket which holds several of these bags, which he delivers to another
carrier, who, in his turn, accomplishes his task in an identical manner.
Neither rain nor snow can arrest these carriers. In this way the mail
service is carried on between Kachmyr and Thibet, and <span class='italics'>vice versa</span> once
a week. For each course the letter carrier is paid six annas (twenty
cents); the same wages as is paid to the carriers of merchandise. This
sum I also paid to every one of my servants for carrying a ten times
heavier load.</p>
<p>It makes one's heart ache to see the pale and tired-looking figures of
these carriers; but what is to be done? It is the custom of the country.
The tea is brought from China by a similar system of transportation,
which is rapid and inexpensive.</p>
<p>In the village of Montaiyan, I found again the Yarkandien caravan of
pilgrims, whom I had promised to accompany on their journey they
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></SPAN></span>
recognized me from a distance, and asked me to examine one of their men,
who had fallen sick. I found him writhing in the agonies of an intense
fever. Shaking my hands as a sign of despair, I pointed to the heavens
and gave them to understand that human will and science were now
useless, and that God alone could save him. These people journeyed by
small stages only; I, therefore, left them and arrived in the evening at
Drass, situated at the bottom of a valley near a river of the same name.
Near Drass, a little fort of ancient construction, but freshly painted,
stands aloof, under the guard of three Sikhs of the Maharadja's army.</p>
<p>At Drass, my domicile was the post-house, which is a station—and the
only one—of an unique telegraph line from Srinagar to the interior of
the Himalayas. From that time on, I no more had my tent put up each
evening, but stopped in the caravansarais; places which, though made
repulsive by their dirt, are kept warm by the enormous piles of wood
burned in their fireplaces.</p>
<p>From Drass to Karghil the landscape is unpleasing and monotonous, if one
excepts the marvellous effects of the rising and setting sun and the
beautiful moonlight. Apart from these the road is wearisome and
abounding with dangers. Karghil is the principal place of the district,
where the governor of the country resides. Its site is quite
picturesque. Two water courses, the Souron and the Wakkha, roll their
noisy and turbulent waters among rocks and sunken snags of uprooted
trees, escaping from their respective defiles in the rocks, to join in
forming here the river Souron, upon the banks of which stands Karghil. A
little fort, garrisoned by two or three Sikhs, shows its outlines at the
junction of the streams. Provided with a horse, I continued my journey
at break of day, entering now the province of Ladak, or Little Thibet. I
traversed a ricketty bridge, composed—like all the bridges of
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></SPAN></span>
Kachmyr—of two long beams, the ends of which were supported upon the
banks and the floor made of a layer of fagots and sticks, which imparted
to the traveller, at least the illusion of a suspension bridge. Soon
afterward I climbed slowly up on a little plateau, which crosses the way
at a distance of two kilometres, to descend into the narrow valley of
Wakkha. Here there are several villages, among which, on the left shore,
is the very picturesque one called Paskium.</p>
<p>Here my feet trod Buddhist ground. The inhabitants are of a very simple
and mild disposition, seemingly ignorant of "quarreling." Women are very
rare among them. Those of them whom I encountered were distinguished
from the women I had hitherto seen in India or Kachmyr, by the air of
gaiety and prosperity apparent in their countenances. How could it be
otherwise, since each woman in this country has, on an average, three to
five husbands, and possesses them in the most legitimate way in the
world. Polyandry flourishes here. However large a family may be, there
is but one woman in it. If the family does not contain already more than
two husbands, a bachelor may share its advantages, for a consideration.
The days sacred to each one of those husbands are determined in advance,
and all acquit themselves of their respective duties and respect each
others' rights. The men generally seem feeble, with bent backs, and do
not live to old age. During my travels in Ladak, I only encountered one
man so old that his hair was white.</p>
<p>From Karghil to the centre of Ladak, the road had a more cheerful aspect
than that I had traversed before reaching Karghil, its prospect being
brightened by a number of little hamlets, but trees and verdure were,
unfortunately, rare.</p>
<p>Twenty miles from Karghil, at the end of the defile formed by the rapid
current of the Wakkha, is a little village called Chargol, in the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></SPAN></span>
centre of which stand three chapels, decorated with lively colors
(<span class='italics'>t'horthenes</span>, to give them the name they
bear in Thibet). Below, near the river, are masses of rocks, in the form
of long and large walls, upon which are thrown, in apparent disorder,
flat stones of different colors and sizes. Upon these stones are engraved
all sorts of prayers, in Ourd, Sanscrit and Thibetan, and one can even
find among them inscriptions in Arabic characters. Without the knowledge
of my carriers, I succeeded in taking away a few of these stones, which
are now in the palace of the Trocadero.</p>
<p>Along the way, from Chargol, one finds frequently oblong mounds,
artificial constructions. After sunrise, with fresh horses, I resumed my
journey and stopped near the <span class='italics'>gonpa</span> (monastery) of Moulbek, which seems
glued on the flank of an isolated rock. Below is the hamlet of Wakkha,
and not far from there is to be seen another rock, of very strange form,
which seems to have been placed where it stands by human hands. In one
side of it is cut a Buddha several metres in height. Upon it are several
cylinders, the turning of which serves for prayers. They are a sort of
wooden barrel, draped with yellow or white fabrics, and are attached to
vertically planted stakes. It requires only the least wind to make them
turn. The person who puts up one of these cylinders no longer feels it
obligatory upon him to say his prayers, for all that devout believers
can ask of God is written upon the cylinders. Seen from a distance this
white painted monastery, standing sharply out from the gray background
of the rocks, with all these whirling, petticoated wheels, produce a
strange effect in this dead country. I left my horses in the hamlet of
Wakkha, and, followed by my servant, walked toward the convent, which is
reached by a narrow stairway cut in the rock. At the top, I was received
by a very fat lama, with a scanty, straggling beard under his chin—a
common characteristic of the Thibetan people—who was very ugly, but
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></SPAN></span>
very cordial. His costume consisted of a yellow robe and a sort of big
nightcap, with projecting flaps above the ears, of the same color. He
held in his hand a copper prayer-machine which, from time to time, he
shook with his left hand, without at all permitting that exercise to
interfere with his conversation. It was his eternal prayer, which he
thus communicated to the wind, so that by this element it should be
borne to Heaven. We traversed a suite of low chambers, upon the walls of
which were images of Buddha, of all sizes and made of all kinds of
materials, all alike covered by a thick layer of dust. Finally we
reached an open terrace, from which the eyes, taking in the surrounding
region, rested upon an inhospitable country, strewn with grayish rocks
and traversed by only a single road, which on both sides lost itself in
the horizon.</p>
<p>When we were seated, they brought us beer, made with hops, called here
<span class='italics'>Tchang</span> and brewed in the cloister. It has a
tendency to rapidly produce <span class='italics'>embonpoint</span> upon
the monks, which is regarded as a sign of the particular favor of Heaven.</p>
<p>They spoke here the Thibetan language. The origin of this language is
full of obscurity. One thing is certain, that a king of Thibet, a
contemporary of Mohammed, undertook the creation of an universal
language for all the disciples of Buddha. To this end he had simplified
the Sanscrit grammar, composed an alphabet containing an infinite number
of signs, and thus laid the foundations of a language the pronunciation
of which is one of the easiest and the writing the most complicated.
Indeed, in order to represent a sound one must employ not less than
eight characters. All the modern literature of Thibet is written in this
language. The pure Thibetan is only spoken in Ladak and Oriental Thibet.
In all other parts of the country are employed dialects formed by the
mixture of this mother language with different idioms taken from the
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></SPAN></span>
neighboring peoples of the various regions round about. In the ordinary
life of the Thibetan, there exists always two languages, one of which is
absolutely incomprehensible to the women, while the other is spoken by
the entire nation; but only in the convents can be found the Thibetan
language in all its purity and integrity.</p>
<p>The lamas much prefer the visits of Europeans to those of Musselmen, and
when I asked the one who received me why this was so, he answered me:
"Musselmen have no point of contact at all with our religion. Only
comparatively recently, in their victorious campaign, they have
converted, by force, part of the Buddhists to Islam. It requires of us
great efforts to bring back those Musselmen, descendants of Buddhists,
into the path of the true God. As regards the Europeans, it is quite a
different affair. Not only do they profess the essential principles of
monotheism, but they are, in a sense, adorers of Buddha, with almost the
same rites as the lamas who inhabit Thibet. The only fault of the
Christians is that after having adopted the great doctrines of Buddha,
they have completely separated themselves from him, and have created for
themselves a different Dalai-Lama. Our Dalai-Lama is the only one who
has received the divine gift of seeing, face to face, the majesty of
Buddha, and is empowered to serve as an intermediary between earth and
heaven."</p>
<p>"Which Dalai-Lama of the Christians do you refer to?" I asked him; "we
have one, the Son of God, to whom we address directly our fervent
prayers, and to him alone we recur to intercede with our One and
Indivisible God."</p>
<p>"It is not him of whom it is a question, Sahib," he replied. "We, too,
respect him, whom we reverence as son of the One and Indivisible God,
but we do not see in him the Only Son, but the excellent being who was
chosen among all. Buddha, indeed, has
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></SPAN></span>
incarnated himself, with his
divine nature, in the person of the sacred Issa, who, without employing
fire or iron, has gone forth to propagate our true and great religion
among all the world. Him whom I meant was your terrestrial Dalai-Lama;
he to whom you have given the title of 'Father of the Church.' That is a
great sin. May he be brought back, with the flock, who are now in a bad
road," piously added the lama, giving another twirl to his
prayer-machine.</p>
<p>I understood now that he alluded to the Pope. "You have told me that a
son of Buddha, Issa, the elect among all, had spread your religion on
the Earth. Who is he?" I asked.</p>
<p>At this question the lama's eyes opened wide; he looked at me with
astonishment and pronounced some words I could not catch, murmuring in
an unintelligible way. "Issa," he finally replied, "is a great prophet,
one of the first after the twenty-two Buddhas. He is greater than any
one of all the Dalai-Lamas, for he constitutes part of the spirituality
of our Lord. It is he who has instructed you; he who brought back into
the bosom of God the frivolous and wicked souls; he who made you worthy
of the beneficence of the Creator, who has ordained that each being
should know good and evil. His name and his acts have been chronicled in
our sacred writings, and when reading how his great life passed away in
the midst of an erring people, we weep for the horrible sin of the
heathen who murdered him, after subjecting him to torture."</p>
<p>I was struck by this recital of the lama. The prophet Issa—his tortures
and death—our Christian Dalai-Lama—the Buddhist recognizing
Christianity—all these made me think more and more of Jesus Christ. I
asked my interpreter not to lose a single word of what the lama told me.</p>
<p>"Where can those writings be found, and who compiled them?" I asked the
monk.<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>"The principal scrolls—which were written in India and Nepaul, at
different epochs, as the events happened—are in Lhassa; several
thousands in number. In some great convents are to be found copies,
which the lamas, during their sojourn in Lhassa, have made, at various
times, and have then given to their cloisters as souvenirs of the period
they spent with the Dalai-Lama."</p>
<p>"But you, yourselves; do you not possess copies of the scrolls bearing
upon the prophet Issa?"</p>
<p>"We have not. Our convent is insignificant, and since its foundation our
successive lamas have had only a few hundred manuscripts in their
library. The great cloisters have several thousands of them; but they
are sacred things which will not, anywhere, be shown
to <span class="ins" title="Original missing close quotation mark">you."</span></p>
<p>We spoke together a few minutes longer, after which I went home, all the
while thinking of the lama's statements. Issa, a prophet of the
Buddhists! But, how could this be? Of Jewish origin, he lived in
Palestine and in Egypt; and the Gospels do not contain one word, not
even the least allusion, to the part which Buddhism should have played
in the education of Jesus.</p>
<p>I made up my mind to visit all the convents of Thibet, in the hope of
gathering fuller information upon the prophet Issa, and perhaps copies
of the chronicles bearing upon this subject.</p>
<hr style='width: 45%;' />
<p>We traversed the Namykala Pass, at 30,000 feet of altitude, whence we
descended into the valley of the River Salinoumah. Turning southward, we
gained Karbou, leaving behind us, on the opposite bank, numerous
villages, among other, Chagdoom, which is at the top of a rock, an
extremely imposing sight. Its houses are white and have a sort of
festive look, with their two and three stories. This, by the way, is a
common peculiarity of all the villages of Ladak. The eye of the
European, travelling in
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></SPAN></span>
Kachmyr, would soon lose sight of all
architecture to which he had been accustomed. In Ladak, on the contrary,
he would be agreeably surprised at seeing the little two and three-story
houses, reminders to him of those in European provinces. Near the city
of Karbou, upon two perpendicular rocks, one sees the ruins of a little
town or village. A tempest and an earthquake are said to have shaken
down its walls, the solidity of which seems to have been exceptional.</p>
<p>The next day I traversed the Fotu-La Pass, at an altitude of 13,500
feet. At its summit stands a little <span class='italics'>t'horthene</span> (chapel). Thence,
following the dry bed of a stream, I descended to the hamlet of
Lamayure, the sudden appearance of which is a surprise to the traveller.
A convent, which seems grafted on the side of the rock, or held there in
some miraculous way, dominates the village. Stairs are unknown in this
cloister. In order to pass from one story of it to another, ropes are
used. Communication with the world outside is through a labyrinth of
passages in the rock. Under the windows of the convent—which make one
think of birds' nests on the face of a cliff—-is a little inn, the
rooms of which are little inviting. Hardly had I stretched myself on the
carpet in one of them, when the monks, dressed in their yellow robes,
filled the apartment, bothered me with questions as to whence I came,
the purpose of my coming, where I was going, and so on, finally inviting
me to come and see them.</p>
<p>In spite of my fatigue I accepted their invitation and set out with
them, to climb up the excavated passages in the rock, which were
encumbered with an infinity of prayer cylinders and wheels, which I
could not but touch and set turning as I brushed past them. They are
placed there that they may be so turned, saving to the passers-by the
time they might otherwise lose in saying their prayers—as if their
affairs were so absorbing, and their time so
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></SPAN></span> precious, that they could
not find leisure to pray. Many pious Buddhists use for this purpose an
apparatus arranged to be turned by the current of a stream. I have seen
a long row of cylinders, provided with their prayer formulas, placed
along a river bank, in such a way that the water kept them constantly in
motion, this ingenious device freeing the proprietors from any further
obligation to say prayers themselves.</p>
<p>I sat down on a bench in the hall, where semi-obscurity reigned. The
walls were garnished with little statues of Buddha, books and
prayer-wheels. The loquacious lamas began explaining to me the
significance of each object.</p>
<p>"And those books?" I asked them; "they, no doubt, have reference to
religion."</p>
<p>"Yes, sir. These are a few religious volumes which deal with the primary
and principal rites of the life common to all. We possess several parts
of the words of Buddha consecrated to the Great and Indivisible Divine
Being, and to all that issue from his hands."</p>
<p>"Is there not, among those books, some account of the prophet Issa?"</p>
<p>"No, sir," answered the monk. "We only possess a few principal treatises
relating to the observance of the religious rites. As for the
biographies of our saints, they are collected in Lhassa. There are even
great cloisters which have not had the time to procure them. Before
coming to this gonpa, I was for several years in a great convent on the
other side of Ladak, and have seen there thousands of books, and scrolls
copied out of various books by the lamas of the monastery."</p>
<p>By some further interrogation I learned that the convent in question was
near Leh, but my persistent inquiries had the effect of exciting the
suspicions of the lamas. They showed me the way out with evident
pleasure, and regaining my room, I fell asleep
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></SPAN></span>
—after a light
lunch—leaving orders with my Hindu to inform himself in a skillful way,
from some of the younger lamas of the convent, about the monastery in
which their chief had lived before coming to Lamayure.</p>
<p>In the morning, when we set forth on our journey, the Hindu told me that
he could get nothing from the lamas, who were very reticent. I will not
stop to describe the life of the monks in those convents, for it is the
same in all the cloisters of Ladak. I have seen the celebrated monastery
of Leh—of which I shall have to speak later on—and learned there the
strange existences the monks and religious people lead, which is
everywhere the same. In Lamayure commences a declivity which, through a
steep, narrow and sombre gorge, extends toward India.</p>
<p>Without having the least idea of the dangers which the descent
presented, I sent my carriers in advance and started on a route, rather
pleasant at the outset, which passes between the brown clay hills, but
soon it produced upon me the most depressing effect, as though I was
traversing a gloomy subterranean passage. Then the road came out on the
flank of the mountain, above a terrible abyss. If a rider had met me, we
could not possibly have passed each other, the way was so narrow. All
description would fail to convey a sense of the grandeur and wild beauty
of this cañon, the summit of the walls of which seemed to reach the sky.
At some points it became so narrow that from my saddle I could, with my
cane, touch the opposite rock. At other places, death might be fancied
looking up expectantly, from the abyss, at the traveller. It was too
late to dismount. In entering alone this gorge, I had not the faintest
idea that I would have occasion to regret my foolish imprudence. I had
not realized its character. It was simply an enormous crevasse, rent by
some Titanic throe of nature, some tremendous earthquake, which had
split the granite mountain. In its bottom I could just distinguish a
hardly perceptible
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></SPAN></span>
white thread, an impetuous torrent, the dull roar of
which filled the defile with mysterious and impressive sounds.</p>
<p>Far overhead extended, narrow and sinuously, a blue ribbon, the only
glimpse of the celestial world that the frowning granite walls permitted
to be seen. It was a thrilling pleasure, this majestic view of nature.
At the same time, its rugged severity, the vastness of its proportions,
the deathly silence only invaded by the ominous murmur from the depths
beneath, all together filled me with an unconquerable depression. I had
about eight miles in which to experience these sensations, at once sweet
and painful. Then, turning to the right, our little caravan reached a
small valley, almost surrounded by precipitous granite rocks, which
mirrored themselves in the Indus. On the bank of the river stands the
little fortress Khalsi, a celebrated fortification dating from the epoch
of the Musselman invasion, by which runs the wild road from Kachmyr to
Thibet.</p>
<p>We crossed the Indus on an almost suspended bridge which led directly to
the door of the fortress, thus impossible of evasion. Rapidly we
traversed the valley, then the village of Khalsi, for I was anxious to
spend the night in the hamlet of Snowely, which is placed upon terraces
descending to the Indus. The two following days I travelled tranquilly
and without any difficulties to overcome, along the shore of the Indus,
in a picturesque country—which brought me to Leh, the capital of Ladak.</p>
<p>While traversing the little valley of Saspoula, at a distance of several
kilometres from the village of the same name, I found "<span class='italics'>t'horthenes</span>"
and two cloisters, above one of which floated the French flag. Later on,
I learned that a French engineer had presented the flag to the monks,
who displayed it simply as a decoration of their building.</p>
<p>I passed the night at Saspoula and certainly did not forget to visit the
cloisters, seeing there for the tenth time the omnipresent
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></SPAN></span> dust-covered
images of Buddha; the flags and banners heaped in a corner; ugly masks
on the floor; books and papyrus rolls heaped together without order or
care, and the inevitable abundance of prayer-wheels. The lamas
demonstrated a particular pleasure in exhibiting these things, doing it
with the air of shopmen displaying their goods, with very little care
for the degree of interest the traveller may take in them. "We must show
everything, in the hope that the sight alone of these sacred objects
will force the traveller to believe in the divine grandeur of the human
soul."</p>
<p>Respecting the prophet Issa, they gave me the same account I already
had, and I learned, what I had known before, that the books which could
instruct me about him were at Lhassa, and that only the great
monasteries possessed some copies. I did not think any more of passing
Kara-koroum, but only of finding the history of the prophet Issa, which
would, perhaps, bring to light the entire life of the best of men, and
complete the rather vague information which the Gospels afford us about
him.</p>
<p>Not far from Leh, and at the entrance of the valley of the same name,
our road passed near an isolated rock, on the top of which were
constructed a fort—with two towers and without garrison—and a little
convent named Pitak. A mountain, 10,500 feet high, protects the entrance
to Thibet. There the road makes a sudden turn toward the north, in the
direction of Leh, six miles from Pitak and a thousand feet higher.
Immense granite mountains tower above Leh, to a height of 18,000 or
19,000 feet, their crests covered with eternal snow. The city itself,
surrounded by a girdle of stunted aspen trees, rises upon successive
terraces, which are dominated by an old fort and the palaces of the
ancient sovereigns of Ladak. Toward evening I made my entrance into Leh,
and stopped at a bengalow constructed especially for Europeans, whom the
road from India brings here in the hunting season.
<span class='pagenum'><SPAN name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></SPAN></span></p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />