<SPAN name="chap03"></SPAN>
<h3> WHAT SHE WORE </h3>
<p>Somewhere in your story you must pause to describe your heroine's
costume. It is a ticklish task. The average reader likes his heroine
well dressed. He is not satisfied with knowing that she looked like a
tall, fair lily. He wants to be told that her gown was of green crepe,
with lace ruffles that swirled at her feet. Writers used to go so far as
to name the dressmaker; and it was a poor kind of a heroine who didn't
wear a red velvet by Worth. But that has been largely abandoned in these
days of commissions. Still, when the heroine goes out on the terrace to
spoon after dinner (a quaint old English custom for the origin of which
see any novel by the "Duchess," page 179) the average reader wants to
know what sort of a filmy wrap she snatches up on the way out. He
demands a description, with as many illustrations as the publisher will
stand for, of what she wore from the bedroom to the street, with full
stops for the ribbons on her robe de nuit, and the buckles on her
ballroom slippers. Half the poor creatures one sees flattening their
noses against the shop windows are authors getting a line on the advance
fashions. Suppose a careless writer were to dress his heroine in a
full-plaited skirt only to find, when his story is published four months
later, that full-plaited skirts have been relegated to the dim past!</p>
<p>I started to read a story once. It was a good one. There was in it not
a single allusion to brandy-and-soda, or divorce, or the stock market.
The dialogue crackled. The hero talked like a live man. It was a
shipboard story, and the heroine was charming so long as she wore her
heavy ulster. But along toward evening she blossomed forth in a yellow
gown, with a scarlet poinsettia at her throat. I quit her cold. Nobody
ever wore a scarlet poinsettia; or if they did, they couldn't wear it on
a yellow gown. Or if they did wear it with a yellow gown, they didn't
wear it at the throat. Scarlet poinsettias aren't worn, anyhow. To this
day I don't know whether the heroine married the hero or jumped overboard.</p>
<p>You see, one can't be too careful about clothing one's heroine.</p>
<p>I hesitate to describe Sophy Epstein's dress. You won't like it. In the
first place, it was cut too low, front and back, for a shoe clerk in a
downtown loft. It was a black dress, near-princess in style, very tight
as to fit, very short as to skirt, very sleazy as to material. It showed
all the delicate curves of Sophy's under-fed, girlish body, and Sophy
didn't care a bit. Its most objectionable feature was at the throat.
Collarless gowns were in vogue. Sophy's daring shears had gone a snip or
two farther. They had cut a startlingly generous V. To say that the
dress was elbow-sleeved is superfluous. I have said that Sophy clerked
in a downtown loft.</p>
<p>Sophy sold "sample" shoes at two-fifty a pair, and from where you were
standing you thought they looked just like the shoes that were sold in
the regular shops for six. When Sophy sat on one of the low benches at
the feet of some customer, tugging away at a refractory shoe for a
would-be small foot, her shameless little gown exposed more than it
should have. But few of Sophy's customers were shocked. They were
mainly chorus girls and ladies of doubtful complexion in search of cheap
and ultra footgear, and—to use a health term—hardened by exposure.</p>
<p>Have I told you how pretty she was? She was so pretty that you
immediately forgave her the indecency of her pitiful little gown. She
was pretty in a daringly demure fashion, like a wicked little Puritan, or
a poverty-stricken Cleo de Merode, with her smooth brown hair parted in
the middle, drawn severely down over her ears, framing the lovely oval of
her face and ending in a simple coil at the neck. Some serpent's wisdom
had told Sophy to eschew puffs. But I think her prettiness could have
triumphed even over those.</p>
<p>If Sophy's boss had been any other sort of man he would have informed
Sophy, sternly, that black princess effects, cut low, were not au fait in
the shoe-clerk world. But Sophy's boss had a rhombic nose, and no
instep, and the tail of his name had been amputated. He didn't care how
Sophy wore her dresses so long as she sold shoes.</p>
<p>Once the boss had kissed Sophy—not on the mouth, but just where her
shabby gown formed its charming but immodest V. Sophy had slapped him,
of course. But the slap had not set the thing right in her mind. She
could not forget it. It had made her uncomfortable in much the same way
as we are wildly ill at ease when we dream of walking naked in a crowded
street. At odd moments during the day Sophy had found herself rubbing
the spot furiously with her unlovely handkerchief, and shivering a
little. She had never told the other girls about that kiss.</p>
<p>So—there you have Sophy and her costume. You may take her or leave her.
I purposely placed these defects in costuming right at the beginning of
the story, so that there should be no false pretenses. One more detail.
About Sophy's throat was a slender, near-gold chain from which was
suspended a cheap and glittering La Valliere. Sophy had not intended it
as a sop to the conventions. It was an offering on the shrine of
Fashion, and represented many lunchless days.</p>
<p>At eleven o'clock one August morning, Louie came to Chicago from
Oskaloosa, Iowa. There was no hay in his hair. The comic papers have
long insisted that the country boy, on his first visit to the city, is
known by his greased boots and his high-water pants. Don't you believe
them. The small-town boy is as fastidious about the height of his heels
and the stripe of his shift and the roll of his hat-brim as are his city
brothers. He peruses the slangily worded ads of the "classy clothes"
tailors, and when scarlet cravats are worn the small-town boy is not more
than two weeks late in acquiring one that glows like a headlight.</p>
<p>Louie found a rooming-house, shoved his suitcase under the bed, changed
his collar, washed his hands in the gritty water of the wash bowl, and
started out to look for a job.</p>
<p>Louie was twenty-one. For the last four years he had been employed in
the best shoe store at home, and he knew shoe leather from the factory to
the ash barrel. It was almost a religion with him.</p>
<p>Curiosity, which plays leads in so many life dramas, led Louie to the
rotunda of the tallest building. It was built on the hollow center plan,
with a sheer drop from the twenty-somethingth to the main floor. Louie
stationed himself in the center of the mosaic floor, took off his hat,
bent backward almost double and gazed, his mouth wide open. When he
brought his muscles slowly back into normal position he tried hard not to
look impressed. He glanced about, sheepishly, to see if any one was
laughing at him, and his eye encountered the electric-lighted glass
display case of the shoe company upstairs. The case was filled with pink
satin slippers and cunning velvet boots, and the newest thing in bronze
street shoes. Louie took the next elevator up. The shoe display had
made him feel as though some one from home had slapped him on the back.</p>
<p>The God of the Jobless was with him. The boss had fired two boys the day
before.</p>
<p>"Oskaloosa!" grinned the boss, derisively. "Do they wear shoes there?
What do you know about shoes, huh boy?"</p>
<p>Louie told him. The boss shuffled the papers on his desk, and chewed his
cigar, and tried not to show his surprise. Louie, quite innocently, was
teaching the boss things about the shoe business.</p>
<p>When Louie had finished—"Well, I try you, anyhow," the boss grunted,
grudgingly. "I give you so-and-so much." He named a wage that would
have been ridiculous if it had not been so pathetic.</p>
<p>"All right, sir," answered Louie, promptly, like the boys in the Alger
series. The cost of living problem had never bothered Louie in Oskaloosa.</p>
<p>The boss hid a pleased smile.</p>
<p>"Miss Epstein!" he bellowed, "step this way! Miss Epstein, kindly show
this here young man so he gets a line on the stock. He is from
Oskaloosa, Ioway. Look out she don't sell you a gold brick, Louie."</p>
<p>But Louie was not listening. He was gazing at the V in Sophy Epstein's
dress with all his scandalized Oskaloosa, Iowa, eyes.</p>
<p>Louie was no mollycoddle. But he had been in great demand as usher at
the Young Men's Sunday Evening Club service at the Congregational church,
and in his town there had been no Sophy Epsteins in too-tight princess
dresses, cut into a careless V. But Sophy was a city product—I was
about to say pure and simple, but I will not—wise, bold, young, old,
underfed, overworked, and triumphantly pretty.</p>
<p>"How-do!" cooed Sophy in her best baby tones. Louie's disapproving eyes
jumped from the objectionable V in Sophy's dress to the lure of Sophy's
face, and their expression underwent a lightning change. There was no
disapproving Sophy's face, no matter how long one had dwelt in Oskaloosa.</p>
<p>"I won't bite you," said Sophy. "I'm never vicious on Tuesdays. We'll
start here with the misses' an' children's, and work over to the other
side."</p>
<p>Whereupon Louie was introduced into the intricacies of the sample shoe
business. He kept his eyes resolutely away from the V, and learned many
things. He learned how shoes that look like six dollar values may be
sold for two-fifty. He looked on in wide-eyed horror while Sophy fitted
a No. 5 C shoe on a 6 B foot and assured the wearer that it looked like a
made-to-order boot. He picked up a pair of dull kid shoes and looked at
them. His leather-wise eyes saw much, and I think he would have taken
his hat off the hook, and his offended business principles out of the
shop forever if Sophy had not completed her purchase and strolled over to
him at the psychological moment.</p>
<p>She smiled up at him, impudently. "Well, Pink Cheeks," she said, "how do
you like our little settlement by the lake, huh?"</p>
<p>"These shoes aren't worth two-fifty," said Louie, indignation in his
voice.</p>
<p>"Well, sure," replied Sophy. "I know it. What do you think this is? A
charity bazaar?"</p>
<p>"But back home——" began Louie, hotly.</p>
<p>"Ferget it, kid," said Sophy. "This is a big town, but it ain't got no
room for back-homers. Don't sour on one job till you've got another
nailed. You'll find yourself cuddling down on a park bench if you do.
Say, are you honestly from Oskaloosa?"</p>
<p>"I certainly am," answered Louie, with pride.</p>
<p>"My goodness!" ejaculated Sophy. "I never believed there was no such
place. Don't brag about it to the other fellows."</p>
<p>"What time do you go out for lunch?" asked Louie.</p>
<p>"What's it to you?" with the accent on the "to."</p>
<p>"When I want to know a thing, I generally ask," explained Louie, gently.</p>
<p>Sophy looked at him—a long, keen, knowing look. "You'll learn," she
observed, thoughtfully.</p>
<p>Louie did learn. He learned so much in that first week that when Sunday
came it seemed as though aeons had passed over his head. He learned that
the crime of murder was as nothing compared to the crime of allowing a
customer to depart shoeless; he learned that the lunch hour was invented
for the purpose of making dates; that no one had ever heard of Oskaloosa,
Iowa; that seven dollars a week does not leave much margin for laundry
and general recklessness; that a madonna face above a V-cut gown is apt
to distract one's attention from shoes; that a hundred-dollar nest egg is
as effective in Chicago as a pine stick would be in propping up a stone
wall; and that all the other men clerks called Sophy "sweetheart."</p>
<p>Some of his newly acquired knowledge brought pain, as knowledge is apt to
do.</p>
<p>He saw that State Street was crowded with Sophys during the noon hour;
girls with lovely faces under pitifully absurd hats. Girls who aped the
fashions of the dazzling creatures they saw stepping from limousines.
Girls who starved body and soul in order to possess a set of false curls,
or a pair of black satin shoes with mother-o'-pearl buttons. Girls
whose minds were bounded on the north by the nickel theatres; on the east
by "I sez to him"; on the south by the gorgeous shop windows; and on the
west by "He sez t' me."</p>
<p>Oh, I can't tell you how much Louie learned in that first week while his
eyes were getting accustomed to the shifting, jostling, pushing,
giggling, walking, talking throng. The city is justly famed as a hot
house of forced knowledge.</p>
<p>One thing Louie could not learn. He could not bring himself to accept
the V in Sophy's dress. Louie's mother had been one of the old-fashioned
kind who wore a blue-and-white checked gingham apron from 6 A.M. to 2
P.M., when she took it off to go downtown and help the ladies of the
church at the cake sale in the empty window of the gas company's office,
only to don it again when she fried the potatoes for supper. Among other
things she had taught Louie to wipe his feet before coming in, to respect
and help women, and to change his socks often.</p>
<p>After a month of Chicago Louie forgot the first lesson; had more
difficulty than I can tell you in reverencing a woman who only said, "Aw,
don't get fresh now!" when the other men put their arms about her; and
adhered to the third only after a struggle, in which he had to do a small
private washing in his own wash-bowl in the evening.</p>
<p>Sophy called him a stiff. His gravely courteous treatment of her made
her vaguely uncomfortable. She was past mistress in the art of parrying
insults and banter, but she had no reply ready for Louie's boyish air of
deference. It angered her for some unreasonable woman-reason.</p>
<p>There came a day when the V-cut dress brought them to open battle. I
think Sophy had appeared that morning minus the chain and La Valliere.
Frail and cheap as it was, it had been the only barrier that separated
Sophy from frank shamelessness. Louie's outraged sense of propriety
asserted itself.</p>
<p>"Sophy," he stammered, during a quiet half-hour, "I'll call for you and
take you to the nickel show to-night if you'll promise not to wear that
dress. What makes you wear that kind of a get-up, anyway?"</p>
<p>"Dress?" queried Sophy, looking down at the shiny front breadth of her
frock. "Why? Don't you like it?"</p>
<p>"Like it! No!" blurted Louie.</p>
<p>"Don't yuh, rully! Deah me! Deah me! If I'd only knew that this
morning. As a gen'ral thing I wear white duck complete down t' work, but
I'm savin' my last two clean suits f'r gawlf."</p>
<p>Louie ran an uncomfortable finger around the edge of his collar, but he
stood his ground. "It—it—shows your—neck so," he objected, miserably.</p>
<p>Sophy opened her great eyes wide. "Well, supposin' it does?" she
inquired, coolly. "It's a perfectly good neck, ain't it?"</p>
<p>Louie, his face very red, took the plunge. "I don't know. I guess so.
But, Sophy, it—looks so—so—you know what I mean. I hate to see the
way the fellows rubber at you. Why don't you wear those plain shirtwaist
things, with high collars, like my mother wears back home?"</p>
<p>Sophy's teeth came together with a click. She laughed a short cruel
little laugh. "Say, Pink Cheeks, did yuh ever do a washin' from seven to
twelve, after you got home from work in the evenin'? It's great!
'Specially when you're living in a six-by-ten room with all the modern
inconveniences, includin' no water except on the third floor down.
Simple! Say, a child could work it. All you got to do, when you get
home so tired your back teeth ache, is to haul your water, an' soak your
clothes, an' then rub 'em till your hands peel, and rinse 'em, an' boil
'em, and blue 'em, an' starch 'em. See? Just like that. Nothin' to it,
kid. Nothin' to it."</p>
<p>Louie had been twisting his fingers nervously. Now his hands shut
themselves into fists. He looked straight into Sophy's angry eyes.</p>
<p>"I do know what it is," he said, quite simply. "There's been a lot
written and said about women's struggle with clothes. I wonder why
they've never said anything about the way a man has to fight to keep up
the thing they call appearances. God knows it's pathetic enough to think
of a girl like you bending over a tubful of clothes. But when a man has
to do it, it's a tragedy."</p>
<p>"That's so," agreed Sophy. "When a girl gets shabby, and her clothes
begin t' look tacky she can take a gore or so out of her skirt where it's
the most wore, and catch it in at the bottom, and call it a hobble. An'
when her waist gets too soiled she can cover up the front of it with a
jabot, an' if her face is pretty enough she can carry it off that way.
But when a man is seedy, he's seedy. He can't sew no ruffles on his
pants."</p>
<p>"I ran short last week," continued Louie. "That is, shorter than usual.
I hadn't the fifty cents to give to the woman. You ought to see her! A
little, gray-faced thing, with wisps of hair, and no chest to speak of,
and one of those mashed-looking black hats. Nobody could have the nerve
to ask her to wait for her money. So I did my own washing. I haven't
learned to wear soiled clothes yet. I laughed fit to bust while I was
doing it. But—I'll bet my mother dreamed of me that night. The way
they do, you know, when something's gone wrong."</p>
<p>Sophy, perched on the third rung of the sliding ladder, was gazing at
him. Her lips were parted slightly, and her cheeks were very pink. On
her face was a new, strange look, as of something half forgotten. It was
as though the spirit of Sophy-as-she-might-have-been were inhabiting her
soul for a brief moment. At Louie's next words the look was gone.</p>
<p>"Can't you sew something—a lace yoke—or whatever you call 'em—in that
dress?" he persisted.</p>
<p>"Aw, fade!" jeered Sophy. "When a girl's only got one dress it's got to
have some tong to it. Maybe this gown would cause a wave of indignation
in Oskaloosa, Iowa, but it don't even make a ripple on State Street. It
takes more than an aggravated Dutch neck to make a fellow look at a girl
these days. In a town like this a girl's got to make a showin' some way.
I'm my own stage manager. They look at my dress first, an' grin. See?
An' then they look at my face. I'm like the girl in the story. Muh face
is muh fortune. It's earned me many a square meal; an' lemme tell you,
Pink Cheeks, eatin' square meals is one of my favorite pastimes."</p>
<p>"Say looka here!" bellowed the boss, wrathfully. "Just cut out this here
Romeo and Juliet act, will you! That there ladder ain't for no balcony
scene, understand. Here you, Louie, you shinny up there and get down a
pair of them brown satin pumps, small size."</p>
<p>Sophy continued to wear the black dress. The V-cut neck seemed more
flaunting than ever.</p>
<p>It was two weeks later that Louie came in from lunch, his face radiant.
He was fifteen minutes late, but he listened to the boss's ravings with a
smile.</p>
<p>"You grin like somebody handed you a ten-case note," commented Sophy,
with a woman's curiosity. "I guess you must of met some rube from home
when you was out t' lunch."</p>
<p>"Better than that! Who do you think I bumped right into in the elevator
going down?"</p>
<p>"Well, Brothah Bones," mimicked Sophy, "who did you meet in the elevator
going down?"</p>
<p>"I met a man named Ames. He used to travel for a big Boston shoe house,
and he made our town every few months. We got to be good friends. I
took him home for Sunday dinner once, and he said it was the best dinner
he'd had in months. You know how tired those traveling men get of hotel
grub."</p>
<p>"Cut out the description and get down to action," snapped Sophy.</p>
<p>"Well, he knew me right away. And he made me go out to lunch with him.
A real lunch, starting with soup. Gee! It went big. He asked me what I
was doing. I told him I was working here, and he opened his eyes, and
then he laughed and said: 'How did you get into that joint?' Then he
took me down to a swell little shoe shop on State Street, and it turned
out that he owns it. He introduced me all around, and I'm going there to
work next week. And wages! Why say, it's almost a salary. A fellow can
hold his head up in a place like that."</p>
<p>"When you leavin'?" asked Sophy, slowly.</p>
<p>"Monday. Gee! it seems a year away."</p>
<p>Sophy was late Saturday morning. When she came in, hurriedly, her cheeks
were scarlet and her eyes glowed. She took off her hat and coat and fell
to straightening boxes and putting out stock without looking up. She
took no part in the talk and jest that was going on among the other
clerks. One of the men, in search of the missing mate to the shoe in his
hand, came over to her, greeting her carelessly. Then he stared.</p>
<p>"Well, what do you know about this!" he called out to the others, and
laughed coarsely, "Look, stop, listen! Little Sophy Bright Eyes here has
pulled down the shades."</p>
<p>Louie turned quickly. The immodest V of Sophy's gown was filled with a
black lace yoke that came up to the very lobes of her little pink ears.
She had got some scraps of lace from—Where do they get those bits of
rusty black? From some basement bargain counter, perhaps, raked over
during the lunch hour. There were nine pieces in the front, and seven in
the back. She had sat up half the night putting them together so that
when completed they looked like one, if you didn't come too close. There
is a certain strain of Indian patience and ingenuity in women that no man
has ever been able to understand.</p>
<p>Louie looked up and saw. His eyes met Sophy's. In his there crept a
certain exultant gleam, as of one who had fought for something great and
won. Sophy saw the look. The shy questioning in her eyes was replaced
by a spark of defiance. She tossed her head, and turned to the man who
had called attention to her costume.</p>
<p>"Who's loony now?" she jeered. "I always put in a yoke when it gets
along toward fall. My lungs is delicate. And anyway, I see by the
papers yesterday that collarless gowns is slightly passay f'r winter."</p>
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