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<h2> CHAPTER IX. OTHER CONQUESTS. </h2>
<p>Away over on the east of the island ran a range of beautiful mountains.
And between these mountains and the sea stretched a low rice plain. Here
lived many Pe-po-hoan,—"Barbarians of the plain." Mackay had never
visited this place, for the Kap-tsu-lan plain, as it was called, was very
hard to reach on account of the mountains; but this only made the
dauntless missionary all the more anxious to visit it.</p>
<p>So one day he suggested to his students, as they studied in his house on
the bluff, that they make a journey to tell the people of Kap-tsu-lan the
story of Jesus. Of course, the young fellows were delighted. To go off
with Kai Bok-su was merely transferring their school from his house to the
big beautiful outdoors. For he always taught them by the way, and besides
they were all eager to go with him and help spread the good news that had
made such a difference in their lives. So when Kai Bok-su piled his books
upon a shelf and said, "Let us go to Kaptsu-lan," the young fellows ran
and made their preparations joyfully. A Hoa was in Tamsui at the time, and
Mackay suggested that he come too, for a trip without A Hoa was robbed of
half its enjoyment.</p>
<p>Mackay had just recovered from one of those violent attacks of malaria
from which he suffered so often now, and he was still looking pale and
weak. So Sun-a, a bright young student-lad, came to the study door with
the suggestion, "Let us take Lu-a for Kai Bok-su to ride."</p>
<p>There was a laugh from the other students and an indulgent smile from Kai
Bok-su himself. Lu-a was a small, rather stubborn-looking donkey with meek
eyes and a little rat tail. He was a present to the missionary from the
English commissioner of customs at Tamsui, when that gentleman was leaving
the island. Donkeys were commonly used on the mainland of China, and
though an animal was scarcely ever ridden in Formosa, horses being almost
unknown, the commissioner did not see why his Canadian friend, who was an
introducer of so many new things, should not introduce donkey-riding. So
he sent him Lu-a as a farewell present and leaving this token of his
good-will departed for home.</p>
<p>Up to this time Lu-a had served only as a pet and a joke among the
students, and high times they had with him in the grassy field behind the
missionary's house when lessons were over. In great glee they brought him
round to the door now, "all saddled and bridled" and ready for the trip.
The missionary mounted, and Lu-a trotted meekly along the road that wound
down the bluff toward Kelung. The students followed in high spirits. The
sight of their teacher astride the donkey was such a novel one to them,
and Lu-a was such a joke at any time, that they were filled with
merriment. All went well until they left the road and turned into a path
that led across the buffalo common. At the end of it they came to a ravine
about fifteen feet deep. Over this stretched a plank bridge not more than
three feet wide. Here Lu-a came to a sudden stop. He had no mind to risk
his small but precious body on that shaky structure. His rider bade him
"go on," but the command only made Lu-a put back his ears, plant his fore
feet well forward and stand stock still. In fact he looked much more
settled and immovable than the bridge over which he was being urged. The
students gathered round him and petted and coaxed. They called him "Good
Lu-a" and "Honorable Lu-a" and every other flattering title calculated to
move his donkeyship, but Lu-a flattened his ears back so he could not hear
and would not move. So Mackay dismounted and tried the plan of pulling him
forward by the bridle while some of the boys pushed him from behind. Lu-a
resented this treatment, especially that from the rear, and up went his
heels, scattering students in every direction; and to discomfit the enemy
in front he opened his mouth and gave forth such loud resonant brays that
the ravine fairly rang with his music.</p>
<p>A balking donkey is rather amusing to boys of any country, but to these
Formosan lads who had had no experience with one the sound of Lu-a's harsh
voice and the sight of his flying heels brought convulsions of merriment.
"He's pounding rice! He's pounding rice!" shouted the wag of the party,
and his companions flung themselves upon the grass and rolled about
laughing themselves sick.</p>
<p>With his followers rendered helpless and his steed continuing stubborn,
Mackay saw the struggle was useless. He could not compete alone with
Lu-a's firmness, so he gave orders that the obstinate little obstructer of
their journey be trotted back to his pasture.</p>
<p>"And to think that any one of us might have carried the little rascal
over!" he cried as he watched the donkey meekly depart. His students
looked at the little beast with something like respect. Lu-a had beaten
the dauntless Kai Bok-su who had never before been beaten by anything. He
was indeed a marvelous donkey!</p>
<p>So the journey to the Kap-tsu-lan plain was made on foot. It was a very
wearisome one and often dangerous. The mountain paths were steep and
difficult and the travelers knew that often the head-hunters lurked near.
But the way was wonderfully beautiful nevertheless. Standing on a mountain
height one morning and looking away down over wooded hills and valleys and
the lake-like terraces of the rice-fields, Mackay repeated to his students
a line of the old hymn:</p>
<p>Every prospect pleases and only man is vile.</p>
<p>Around them the stately tree-fern lifted its lovely fronds and the orchids
dotted the green earth like a flock of gorgeous butterflies just settled.
Tropical birds of brilliant plumage flashed among the trees. Beside them a
great tree raised itself, fairly covered with morning-glories, and over at
their right a mountainside gleamed like snow in the sunlight, clothed from
top to bottom with white lilies.</p>
<p>But the way had its dangers as well as its beauties. They were passing the
mouth of a ravine when they were stopped by yells and screams of terror
coming from farther up the mountainside. In a few minutes a Chinaman
darted out of the woods toward them. His face was distorted with terror
and he could scarcely get breath to tell his horrible story. He and his
four companions had been chipping the camphor trees up in the woods;
suddenly the armed savages had leaped out upon them and he alone of the
five had escaped.</p>
<p>At last they left the dangerous mountain and came down into the
Kap-tsu-lan plain. On every side was rice-field after rice-field, with the
water pouring from one terrace to another. The plain was low and damp and
the paths and roads lay deep in mud. They had a long toilsome walk between
the ricefields until they came to the first village of these barbarians of
the plain. It was very much like a Chinese village,—dirty, noisy,
and swarming with wild-looking children and wolfish dogs.</p>
<p>The visitors were received with the utmost disdain. The Chinese students
were of course well known, for these aborigines had long ago adopted their
customs and language. But the Chinese visitors were in company with the
foreigners, and all foreigners were outcaste in this eastern plain. The
men shouted the familiar "foreign devil" and walked contemptuously away.
The dirty women and children fled into their grass huts and set the dogs
upon the strangers. They tried by all sorts of kindnesses to gain a
hearing, but all to no effect. So they gave it up, and plodded through the
mud and water a mile farther on to the next village. But village number
two received them in exactly the same way. Only rough words and the barks
of cruel dogs met them. The next village was no better, the fourth a
little worse. And so on they went up and down the Kap-tsu-lan plain,
sleeping at night in some poor empty hut or in the shadow of a rice
strawstack, eating their meals of cold rice and buffalo-meat by the
wayside, and being driven from village to village, and receiving never a
word of welcome.</p>
<p>And all through those wearisome days the young men looked at their leader
in vain for any smallest sign of discouragement or inclination to retreat.
There was no slightest look of dismay on the face of Kai Bok-su, for how
was it possible for a man who did not know when he was beaten to feel
discouraged? So still undaunted in the face of defeat, he led them here
and there over the plain, hoping that some one would surely relent and
give them a hearing.</p>
<p>One night, footsore and worn out, they slept on the damp mud floor of a
miserable hut where the rain dripped in upon their faces. In the morning
prospects looked rather discouraging to the younger members of the party.
They were wet and cold and weary, and there seemed no use in going again
and again to a village only to be turned away. But Kai Bok-su's mouth was
as firm as ever, and his dark eyes flashed resolutely, as once more he
gave the order to march. It was a lovely morning, the sun was rising
gloriously out of the sea and the heavy mists were melting from above the
little rice-fields. Here and there fairy lakes gleamed out from the rosy
haze that rolled back toward the mountains. They walked along the shore in
the pink dawn-light and marched up toward a fishing village. They had
visited it before and had been driven away, but Kai Bok-su was determined
to try again. They were surprised as they came nearer to see three men
come out to meet them with a friendly expression on their faces.</p>
<p>The foremost was an old man who had been nicknamed "Black-face," because
of his dark skin. The second was a middleaged man, and the third was a
young fellow about the age of the students. They saluted the travelers
pleasantly, and the old man addressed the missionary.</p>
<p>"You have been going through and through our plain and no one has received
you," he said politely. "Come to our village, and we will now be ready to
listen to you."</p>
<p>The door of Kap-tsu-lan had opened at last! The missionary's eyes gleamed
with joy and gratitude as he accepted the invitation. The delegation led
the visitors straight to the house of the headman. For the Pepo-hoan
governed their communities in the Chinese style and had a headman for each
village. The missionary party sat down in front of the hut on some large
flat stones and talked over the matter with the chief and other important
men. And while they talked "Black-face" slipped away. He returned in a few
moments with a breakfast of rice and fish for the visitors.</p>
<p>The result of the conference was that the villagers decided to give the
barbarian a chance. All he wanted it seemed was to tell of this new
Jehovah-religion which he believed, and surely there could be no great
harm in listening to him talk.</p>
<p>In the evening the headman with the help of some friends set to work to
construct a meeting-house. A tent was erected, made from boat sails.
Several flat stones laid at one end and a plank placed upon them made a
pulpit. And that was the first church on the Kap-tsu-lan plain! There was
a "church bell" too, to call the people to worship. In the village were
some huge marine shells with the ends broken off. In the old days these
were used by the chiefs as trumpets by which they called their men
together whenever they were starting out on the war-path. But now the
trumpet-shell was used to call the people to follow the King. Just at dark
a man took one, and walking up and down the straggling village street blew
loudly—the first "church bell" in east Formosa.</p>
<p>The loud roar brought the villagers flocking down to the tent-church by
the shore. For the most part they brought their pews with them. They came
hurrying out of their huts carrying benches, and arranging them in rows
they seated themselves to listen.</p>
<p>Mackay and the students sang and the people listened eagerly. The
Pe-po-hoan by nature were more musical than the Chinese, and the singing
delighted them. Then the missionary arose and addressed them. He told
clearly and simply why he had come and preached to them of the true God.
Afterward the congregation was allowed to ask questions, and they learned
much of this God and of his love in his Son Jesus Christ.</p>
<p>The wonder of the great news shone in the eyes upturned to the preacher.
In the gloom of the half-lighted tent their dark faces took on a new
expression of half-wondering hope. Could it be possible that this was
true? Their poor, benighted minds had always been held in terror of their
gods and of the evil spirits that forever haunted their footsteps. Could
it be possible that God was a great Father who loved his children? They
asked so many eager questions, and the story of Jesus Christ had to be
told over and over so many times, that before this first church service
ended a gray gleam of dawn was spreading out over the Pacific.</p>
<p>It was only the next day that these newly-awakened people decided that
they must have a church building. And they went to work to get one in a
way that might have shamed a congregation of people in a Christian land.
This new wonderful hope that had been raised in their hearts by the
knowledge that God loved them set them to work with glad energy. Kai
Bok-su and his men still preached and prayed and sang and taught in the
crazy old wind-flapped tent by the seashore, and the people listened
eagerly, and then, when services were over, every one,—preacher,
assistants, and congregation,—set bravely to work to build a church.
Brave they certainly had to be, for at the very beginning they had to risk
their lives for their chapel. A party sailed down the coast and entered
savage territory for the poles to construct the building. They were
attacked and one or two were badly wounded, though they managed to escape.
But they were quite ready to go back and fight again had it been
necessary. Then they made the bricks for the walls. Rice chaff mixed with
clay were the materials, and the Kap-tsu-lan plain had an abundance of
both. The roof was made of grass, the floor of hard dried earth, and a
platform of the same at one end served as a pulpit.</p>
<p>When the little chapel was finished, every evening the big shell rang out
its summons through the village; and out from every house came the people
and swarmed into the chapel to hear Kai Bok-su explain more of the wonders
of God and his Son Jesus Christ.</p>
<p>Mackay's home during this period was a musty little room in a damp
mud-walled hut; and here every day he received donations of idols,
ancestral tablets, and all sorts of things belonging to idol-worship. He
was requested to burn them, and often in the mornings he dried his damp
clothes and moldy boots at a fire made from heathen idols.</p>
<p>For eight weeks the missionary party remained in this place, preaching,
teaching, and working among the people. It was a mystery to the students
how their teacher found time for the great amount of Bible study and
prayer which he managed to get. He surely worked as never man worked
before. Late at night, long after every one else was in bed, he would be
bending over his Bible, beside his peanut-oil lamp, and early in the
morning before the stars had disappeared he was up and at work again. Four
hours' sleep was all his restless, active mind could endure, and with that
he could do work that would have killed any ordinary man.</p>
<p>One evening some new faces looked up at him from his congregation in the
little brick church. When the last hymn was sung the missionary stepped
down from his pulpit and spoke to the strangers. They explained that they
were from the next village. They had heard rumors of this new doctrine,
and had been sent to find out more about it. They had been charmed with
the singing, for that evening over two hundred voices had joined in a
ringing praise to the new Jehovah-God. They wanted to hear more, they
said, and they wanted to know what it was all about. Would Kai Bok-su and
his students deign to visit their village too?</p>
<p>Would he? Why that was just what he was longing to do. He had been driven
out of that village by dogs only a few weeks before, but a little thing
like that did not matter to a man like Mackay. This village lay but a
short distance away, being connected with their own by a path winding here
and there between the rice-fields. Early the next evening Mackay formed a
procession. He placed himself at its head, with A Hoa at his side. The
students came next, and then the converts in a double row. And thus they
marched slowly along the pathway singing as they went. It was a stirring
sight. On either side the waving fields of rice, behind them the gleam of
the blue ocean, before them the great towering mountains clothed in green.
Above them shone the clear dazzling sky of a tropical evening. And on
wound the long procession of Christians in a heathen land, and from them
arose the glorious words:</p>
<p>O thou, my soul, bless God the Lord, And all that in me is Be stirred up
his holy name To magnify and bless.</p>
<p>And the heathen in the rice-fields stopped to gaze at the strange sight,
and the mountains gave back the echo of that Name which is above every
name.</p>
<p>And so, marching to their song, the procession came to the village.
Everybody in the place had come out to meet them at the first sound of the
singing. And now they stood staring, the men in a group by themselves, the
women and children in the background, the dogs snarling on the outskirts
of the crowd.</p>
<p>The congregation was there ready, and without waiting to find a place of
meeting, right out under the clear evening skies, the young missionary
told once more the great story of God and his love as shown through Jesus
Christ. The message took the village by storm. It was like water to
thirsty souls. The next day five hundred of them brought their idols to
the missionary to be burned.</p>
<p>And now Mackay went up and down the Kap-tsu-lan plain from village to
village as he had done before, but this time it was a triumphal march. And
everywhere he went throngs threw away their idols and declared themselves
followers of the true God.</p>
<p>He was overcome with joy. It was so glorious he wished he could stay there
the rest of his life and lead these willing people to a higher life. But
Tamsui was waiting; Sin-tiam, Bang-kah, Kelung, Go-ko-khi, they must all
be visited; and finally he tore himself away, leaving some of his students
to care for these people of Kap-tsu-lan.</p>
<p>But he came back many times, until at last nineteen chapels dotted the
plain, and in them nineteen native preachers told the story of Jesus and
his love. Sometimes, in later years, when Mackay was with them, tears
would roll down the people's faces as they recalled how badly they had
used him on his first visit.</p>
<p>It was while on his third visit here that he had a narrow escape from the
head-hunters. He was staying at a village called "South Wind Harbor,"
which was near the border of savage territory. Mackay often walked on the
shore in the evening just before the meeting, always with a book in his
hand. One night he was strolling along in deep meditation when he noticed
some extremely large turtle tracks in the sand. He followed them, for he
liked to watch the big clumsy creatures. These green turtles were from
four to five feet in length. They would come waddling up from the sea,
scratch a hole in the sand with their flippers, lay their eggs, cover them
carefully, and with head erect and neck out-thrust waddle back. Mackay was
intensely interested in all the animal life of the island and made a study
of it whenever he had a chance. He knew the savages killed and ate these
turtles, but he supposed he was as yet too near the village to be molested
by them. So he followed the tracks and was nearing the edge of the forest,
when he heard a shout behind him. As he turned, one of his village friends
came running out of his hut waving to him frantically to come back.
Thinking some one must be ill, Mackay hurried toward the man, to find that
it was he himself who was in danger. The man explained breathlessly that
it was the habit of the wily savages to make marks in the sand resembling
turtle tracks to lure people into the forest. If Kai Bok-su had entered
the woods, his head would certainly have been lost.</p>
<p>It was always hard to say farewell to Kaptsu-lan, the people were so
warm-hearted, so kind, and so anxious for him to stay. One morning just
before leaving after his third visit, Mackay had an experience that
brought him the greatest joy.</p>
<p>He had stayed all night at the little fishing village where the first
chapel had been built. As usual he was up with the dawn, and after his
breakfast of cold boiled rice and pork he walked down to the shore for a
farewell look at the village. As he passed along the little crooked street
he could see old women sitting on the mud floors of their huts, by the
open door, weaving. They were all poor, wrinkled, toothless old folk with
faces seamed by years of hard heathen experience. But in their eyes shone
a new light, the reflection of the glory that they had seen when the
missionary showed them Jesus their Savior. And as they threw their thread
their quavering voices crooned the sweet words:</p>
<p>There is a happy land Far, far away.</p>
<p>And their old weary faces were lighted up with a hope and happiness that
had never been there in youth.</p>
<p>Kai Bok-su smiled as he passed their doors and his eyes were misty with
tender tears.</p>
<p>Just before him, playing on the sand with "jacks" or tops, just as he had
played not so very long ago away back in Canada, were the village boys.
And as they played they too were singing, their little piping voices,
sweet as birds, thrilling the morning air. And the words they sang were:</p>
<p>Jesus loves me, this I know, For the Bible tells me so.</p>
<p>They nodded and smiled to Kai Bok-su as he passed. He went down to the
shore where the wide Pacific flung long rollers away up the hard-packed
sand. The fishermen were going out to sea in the rosy morning light, and
as they stood up in their fishing-smacks, and swept their long oars
through the surf, they kept time to the motion with singing. And their
strong, brave voices rang out above the roar of the breakers:</p>
<p>I'm not ashamed to own my Lord, Or to defend his cause.</p>
<p>And standing there on the sunlit shore the young missionary raised his
face to the gleaming blue heavens with an emotion of unutterable joy and
thanksgiving. And in that moment he knew what was that glory for which he
had so vaguely longed in childish years. It was the glory of work
accomplished for his Master's sake, and he was realizing it to the full.</p>
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