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Dress Design: An Account of Costume for Artists and Dressmakers

<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> <h3>FIFTEENTH CENTURY. FEMALE.</h3> We have now arrived at the height of eccentric fashion in medi�val head-dress. The hornlike creations, studded with jewels, and peaks of wondrous height, both draped with fine muslins and often completely shutting away the hair from sight, had a supporting cap which mostly came over ears and cheeks, and a clutch is seen on the forehead, at times concealed by a jewel. The hair was generally allowed to fall loose under the back drape, or a long plait is sometimes seen at the back with the first-named head-dress. The back drape setting from the brow down the back was well conceived to balance the high spire, but it seems to have been discarded during the reign of Edward V, and light veil falls were worn which often came half over the face. In Henry VII's time the extreme fashion came in the shape of a closely-fitting curved cap, with a fall of material over the back. The ermine-trimmed jacket was still in favour to the middle of the last-named reign, when it was worn low down over the hips. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig021.png" width-obs="625" height-obs="432" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 21.—Fifteenth century, 1st half. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig022.png" width-obs="629" height-obs="455" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 22.—Middle of fifteenth century to sixteenth century. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate07thumb.jpg" width-obs="238" height-obs="348" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> larger image Plate VII. <ul> <li>(a) Herald's Coat. Embroidered Velvet and Silk. 1st half 17th Century. Measured pattern, page 301.</li> <li>(b) Lady's Bodice of Black Velvet. 1630-60. Measurement, see p. 297.</li> <li>(c) Black Silk Jerkin. <ins class="correction" title="1640-50 in TOC">1640-60</ins>.</li> </ul></div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig023.png" width-obs="444" height-obs="755" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 23.—Fifteenth century, 1st half. </div> The chief dress of this period had a V-shaped collar-front meeting at the waist, mostly made in black material or fur. It was wide on the shoulder, and seems to have been stiffened to set out; the V shape was generally filled in with velvet, and a very wide band encircled the waist; a girdle is occasionally noted. The keys' pocket and other requisites were generally carried on the underskirt during these times. The skirt was full and gathered to the back in a train, the gathers often running into the bodice; a very wide border is prevalent, even to the middle of the thigh. Tight sleeves are usual, and hanging sleeves were worn, mostly set in a very short sleeve, which assume a puff-shape in Henry VII's reign; long cuffs, almost covering the hand, are seen on many sleeves. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig024.png" width-obs="618" height-obs="456" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 24.—Fifteenth century, 2nd half. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig025.png" width-obs="667" height-obs="454" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 25.—Fifteenth century, 2nd half. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate08thumb.jpg" width-obs="389" height-obs="244" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> larger image Plate VIII.—(a) (b) (c) Three Suits. Period Charles II. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig026.png" width-obs="566" height-obs="448" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 26.—End of fifteenth century. </div> Modes of opening the skirt up to the hips occasionally showed themselves, and even the sides to the hips are seen laced. In the earlier dress, about 1485, the neck setting of dress became very square, and was filled with fine-drawn lawn. The square shape rises in a curved centre before the end of this period, and a close-fitting robe was worn with a girdle, often opened up the sides. The short upper sleeve and full outer sleeve so much in vogue gave place to a divided upper and lower sleeve, laced or tied with ribbon, with puffs of lawn pulled through the openings at shoulder and elbow, and down the back of the forearm. Slashes are now seen in most sleeves, and an Italianesque character pervaded the fashion. High, soft boots and shoes of a similar shape to the male description were worn, and changed when the square-toe shoes came in. Through this period there are many interesting details of costume to study, while gilt tags, finishing laces, and ribbons are to be remarked from this period. <h3>FIFTEENTH CENTURY. MALE.</h3> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig027.png" width-obs="712" height-obs="476" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 27.—Fifteenth century. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig028.png" width-obs="750" height-obs="391" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 28.—Fifteenth century, 1st half. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig029.png" width-obs="399" height-obs="745" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 29.—Middle of fifteenth century. </div> The chief shapes to mark in this century in male head-dress is the increased height of the tall hats which rise to vie with the female fashions. We still see a round hat with a rolled edge and long fall over one side, besides shorter folds in the crown, both scalloped or foliated at the edge, and this shape may be noted till about 1460. Some of these hats were made without a crown, as in Fig. 28 (see p. 94); the roll was decorated, as a rule, with jewelled studs. A top hat, something like our present shape, appears, but more belled at the top and also a padded, rolled brim. It was made in various rich materials, and often decorated with jewels. The peak-fronted hat still continued to be favoured till about 1480, its chief difference being a crown more eccentric in height. Tall cylinder hats, with folded brims or no brim, and other shapes are illustrated. The variety is so great through this period that it is well to study the vagaries of fashion which I have illustrated in sequence as far as possible; they were mostly used till about the last quarter of this century, when the low-crowned flat hat with turned-up brim began to secure the fashion. This was generally worn tilted on one side and often over a scarlet skull-cap. A large bunch of plumes came in with this hat, set up from the front, curving backwards, and giving a very grand effect: with most of the tall hats the feather was set at the back. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig030.png" width-obs="750" height-obs="454" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 30.—Fifteenth century. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig031.png" width-obs="364" height-obs="761" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 31.—Fifteenth century, 1st half. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig032.png" width-obs="382" height-obs="774" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 32.—Fifteenth century, 2nd half. </div> The notable change in the tunic, which was worn both very short and to the ground, was the arrangement of folds to the back and front, gathered to a V shape at the waist. The hanging sleeve began to go out of favour after the middle of the century, but the sleeve or cuff covering the hand was continued till the end of this century. A sleeve, full at the shoulder, is found, and short, round, padded sleeves came in, worn over a close-fitting sleeve. This short sleeve became raised on the shoulder, and was cut or looped up the outer side: a long loose outer sleeve is also seen in conjunction with these short ones. A very short jacket is notable, of a plain square shape, with a plain sleeve on the left arm and a hanging sleeve on the right to the knee. The tight-fitting jerkin, laced down the front, was worn with this as with most other coats. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig033.png" width-obs="746" height-obs="422" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 33.—End of fifteenth century. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig034.png" width-obs="769" height-obs="447" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 34.—Fifteenth century, 2nd half. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate08athumb.jpg" width-obs="406" height-obs="244" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> larger image Plate VIIIa—(a) Suit of Embroidered Silk. 1610-30. (b) Three Sword Hangers Embroidered in Gold. Charles II. (c) Braided Suit. 1670-90. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig035.png" width-obs="432" height-obs="758" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 35.—Fifteenth-century Shoes and Clogs. </div> The high collar to the throat had gone out for a collar opened in front. Very short and very long "chasubles" were worn with or without sleeves which were gathered high and full at the shoulders. The sleeves were now sometimes slit open at the back and held with several ties, as linen sleeves are now shown with these. Parti-coloured tights were not so much favoured through this period, but a decorated thigh, or part of the thigh and knee, was a favourite method of enrichment. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig036.png" width-obs="270" height-obs="143" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 36. </div> A long coat came in at the later part of this time, with a deep V-shaped collar meeting at the waist; it was also cut into a square shape at the shoulders, as in Fig. 43 (see p. 119). A loose bell-shaped sleeve usually went with this, often opened in the front of the upper arm. A short square cape is at times seen in conjunction with this. A low square or round neck shape came in during the last quarter of this century, filled in with a fine gathered lawn and a tight-fitting coat with a pleated skirt and full padded sleeves, or a tight sleeve with a full puff or spherical upper part. <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig037.png" width-obs="443" height-obs="664" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 37. Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, second half of 15th century. Nos. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, variety of shapes from 1490 to 1630. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig038.png" width-obs="458" height-obs="650" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> Fig. 38. <ol> <li>14th century.</li> <li>15th century.</li> <li>15th century.</li> <li>Late 16th cent.</li> <li>1580-1610.</li> <li>1580-1610.</li> <li>1605-1640.</li> <li>1600-1625.</li> <li>1550-1600.</li> <li>1610-1640.</li> <li>1590-1620.</li> <li>1605-1630.</li> <li>1675-1695.</li> <li>1670-1690.</li> <li>1680-1700.</li> <li>1690-1720.</li> <li>1680-1700.</li> <li>1700-1750.</li> <li>1700-1780.</li> <li>1700-1760.</li> <li>1740-1780.</li> <li>1745-1780.</li> <li>1770-1800.</li> <li>1730-1760.</li> <li>1700-1780.</li> <li>1830-1860.</li> <li>1780-1800.</li> <li>1840-1870.</li> <li>1840-1870.</li> </ol></div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate09thumb.jpg" width-obs="394" height-obs="226" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> larger image Plate IX.—(a) Lady's Embroidered Silk Jacket. 1605-<ins class="correction" title="20 in ToC">30</ins>. (b) Lady's Bodice of Silk Brocade. 1680-1700. </div> <div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig039.png" width-obs="437" height-obs="749" alt="Comb case—purse—Cut leather. 15 cent.—Pierced leather, 16 cent.—Bronze studs 15 or 16 cent.—Incised lines with metal studs 15 cent." title="See caption" /> Fig. 39.—Decorated Leather, 15th and 16th centuries. </div> Shoes and boots were still worn with very long pointed toes till about 1465, when a proclamation was issued for beaks or piked shoes not to pass two inches, and after this time a broad round-toed shoe began to appear. Soft high boots to the top of the thigh, with folded top, belong to this century, as well as the fashionable boot to the calf. The sword or dagger was carried towards the front or side, and a small dagger across the belt at the back. The pouch or purse was also used as a dagger support. <div style="break-after:column;"></div>

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