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<h2> CHAPTER 15 </h2>
<p>ON the twelfth we made sail from Christmas Harbour retracing our way to
the westward, and leaving Marion's Island, one of Crozet's group, on the
larboard. We afterward passed Prince Edward's Island, leaving it also on
our left, then, steering more to the northward, made, in fifteen days, the
islands of Tristan d'Acunha, in latitude 37 degrees 8' S, longitude 12
degrees 8' W.</p>
<p>This group, now so well known, and which consists of three circular
islands, was first discovered by the Portuguese, and was visited afterward
by the Dutch in 1643, and by the French in 1767. The three islands
together form a triangle, and are distant from each other about ten miles,
there being fine open passages between. The land in all of them is very
high, especially in Tristan d'Acunha, properly so called. This is the
largest of the group, being fifteen miles in circumference, and so
elevated that it can be seen in clear weather at the distance of eighty or
ninety miles. A part of the land toward the north rises more than a
thousand feet perpendicularly from the sea. A tableland at this height
extends back nearly to the centre of the island, and from this tableland
arises a lofty cone like that of Teneriffe. The lower half of this cone is
clothed with trees of good size, but the upper region is barren rock,
usually hidden among the clouds, and covered with snow during the greater
part of the year. There are no shoals or other dangers about the island,
the shores being remarkably bold and the water deep. On the northwestern
coast is a bay, with a beach of black sand where a landing with boats can
be easily effected, provided there be a southerly wind. Plenty of
excellent water may here be readily procured; also cod and other fish may
be taken with hook and line.</p>
<p>The next island in point of size, and the most westwardly of the group, is
that called the Inaccessible. Its precise situation is 37 degrees 17' S.
latitude, longitude 12 degrees 24' W. It is seven or eight miles in
circumference, and on all sides presents a forbidding and precipitous
aspect. Its top is perfectly flat, and the whole region is sterile,
nothing growing upon it except a few stunted shrubs.</p>
<p>Nightingale Island, the smallest and most southerly, is in latitude 37
degrees 26' S., longitude 12 degrees 12' W. Off its southern extremity is
a high ledge of rocky islets; a few also of a similar appearance are seen
to the northeast. The ground is irregular and sterile, and a deep valley
partially separates it.</p>
<p>The shores of these islands abound, in the proper season, with sea lions,
sea elephants, the hair and fur seal, together with a great variety of
oceanic birds. Whales are also plenty in their vicinity. Owing to the ease
with which these various animals were here formerly taken, the group has
been much visited since its discovery. The Dutch and French frequented it
at a very early period. In 1790, Captain Patten, of the ship Industry, of
Philadelphia, made Tristan d'Acunha, where he remained seven months (from
August, 1790, to April, 1791) for the purpose of collecting sealskins. In
this time he gathered no less than five thousand six hundred, and says
that he would have had no difficulty in loading a large ship with oil in
three weeks. Upon his arrival he found no quadrupeds, with the exception
of a few wild goats; the island now abounds with all our most valuable
domestic animals, which have been introduced by subsequent navigators.</p>
<p>I believe it was not long after Captain Patten's visit that Captain
Colquhoun, of the American brig Betsey, touched at the largest of the
islands for the purpose of refreshment. He planted onions, potatoes,
cabbages, and a great many other vegetables, an abundance of all which is
now to be met with.</p>
<p>In 1811, a Captain Haywood, in the Nereus, visited Tristan. He found there
three Americans, who were residing upon the island to prepare sealskins
and oil. One of these men was named Jonathan Lambert, and he called
himself the sovereign of the country. He had cleared and cultivated about
sixty acres of land, and turned his attention to raising the coffee-plant
and sugar-cane, with which he had been furnished by the American Minister
at Rio Janeiro. This settlement, however, was finally abandoned, and in
1817 the islands were taken possession of by the British Government, who
sent a detachment for that purpose from the Cape of Good Hope. They did
not, however, retain them long; but, upon the evacuation of the country as
a British possession, two or three English families took up their
residence there independently of the Government. On the twenty-fifth of
March, 1824, the Berwick, Captain Jeffrey, from London to Van Diemen's
Land, arrived at the place, where they found an Englishman of the name of
Glass, formerly a corporal in the British artillery. He claimed to be
supreme governor of the islands, and had under his control twenty-one men
and three women. He gave a very favourable account of the salubrity of the
climate and of the productiveness of the soil. The population occupied
themselves chiefly in collecting sealskins and sea elephant oil, with
which they traded to the Cape of Good Hope, Glass owning a small schooner.
At the period of our arrival the governor was still a resident, but his
little community had multiplied, there being fifty-six persons upon
Tristan, besides a smaller settlement of seven on Nightingale Island. We
had no difficulty in procuring almost every kind of refreshment which we
required—sheep, hogs, bullocks, rabbits, poultry, goats, fish in
great variety, and vegetables were abundant. Having come to anchor close
in with the large island, in eighteen fathoms, we took all we wanted on
board very conveniently. Captain Guy also purchased of Glass five hundred
sealskins and some ivory. We remained here a week, during which the
prevailing winds were from the northward and westward, and the weather
somewhat hazy. On the fifth of November we made sail to the southward and
westward, with the intention of having a thorough search for a group of
islands called the Auroras, respecting whose existence a great diversity
of opinion has existed.</p>
<p>These islands are said to have been discovered as early as 1762, by the
commander of the ship Aurora. In 1790, Captain Manuel de Oyarvido,, in the
ship Princess, belonging to the Royal Philippine Company, sailed, as he
asserts, directly among them. In 1794, the Spanish corvette Atrevida went
with the determination of ascertaining their precise situation, and, in a
paper published by the Royal Hydrographical Society of Madrid in the year
1809, the following language is used respecting this expedition: "The
corvette Atrevida practised, in their immediate vicinity, from the
twenty-first to the twenty-seventh of January, all the necessary
observations, and measured by chronometers the difference of longitude
between these islands and the port of Soledad in the Manillas. The islands
are three, they are very nearly in the same meridian; the centre one is
rather low, and the other two may be seen at nine leagues' distance." The
observations made on board the Atrevida give the following results as the
precise situation of each island. The most northern is in latitude 52
degrees 37' 24" S., longitude 47 degrees, 43' 15" W.; the middle one in
latitude 53 degrees 2' 40" S., longitude 47 degrees 55' 15" W.; and the
most southern in latitude 53 degrees 15' 22" S., longitude 47 degrees 57'
15" W.</p>
<p>On the twenty-seventh of January, 1820, Captain James Weddel, of the
British navy, sailed from Staten Land also in search of the Auroras. He
reports that, having made the most diligent search and passed not only
immediately over the spots indicated by the commander of the Atrevida, but
in every direction throughout the vicinity of these spots, he could
discover no indication of land. These conflicting statements have induced
other navigators to look out for the islands; and, strange to say, while
some have sailed through every inch of sea where they are supposed to lie
without finding them, there have been not a few who declare positively
that they have seen them; and even been close in with their shores. It was
Captain Guy's intention to make every exertion within his power to settle
the question so oddly in dispute. {*3}</p>
<p>We kept on our course, between the south and west, with variable weather,
until the twentieth of the month, when we found ourselves on the debated
ground, being in latitude 53 degrees 15' S., longitude 47 degrees 58' W.—that
is to say, very nearly upon the spot indicated as the situation of the
most southern of the group. Not perceiving any sign of land, we continued
to the westward of the parallel of fifty-three degrees south, as far as
the meridian of fifty degrees west. We then stood to the north as far as
the parallel of fifty-two degrees south, when we turned to the eastward,
and kept our parallel by double altitudes, morning and evening, and
meridian altitudes of the planets and moon. Having thus gone eastwardly to
the meridian of the western coast of Georgia, we kept that meridian until
we were in the latitude from which we set out. We then took diagonal
courses throughout the entire extent of sea circumscribed, keeping a
lookout constantly at the masthead, and repeating our examination with the
greatest care for a period of three weeks, during which the weather was
remarkably pleasant and fair, with no haze whatsoever. Of course we were
thoroughly satisfied that, whatever islands might have existed in this
vicinity at any former period, no vestige of them remained at the present
day. Since my return home I find that the same ground was traced over,
with equal care, in 1822, by Captain Johnson, of the American schooner
Henry, and by Captain Morrell in the American schooner Wasp—in both
cases with the same result as in our own.</p>
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