<h3><SPAN name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</SPAN> <br/>Darkest hour before dawn</h3>
<p class="toclink"><SPAN href="#CONTENTS">TOC</SPAN></p>
<div class="poembox"><div class="stanzaleft">
<div class="verse0">Yankee Doodle came to town,</div>
<div class="verse1"> Riding on a pony,</div>
<div class="verse0">Stuck a feather in his cap,</div>
<div class="verse1"> And called him "Mac A'Rony."</div>
</div>
<cite class="citeright">—Old Ballad.</cite></div>
<p>A county poor-house on the road to Elkhart attracted
my notice when I was about to pass it by. My outfit was
recognized by a man raking the front lawn, and he
urged me to visit the institution; so, thinking I might
devote a quarter-hour to the cause of self-education, I
tied Mac in the yard, and was shown through the dirtiest
and most uninteresting building I ever inspected.</p>
<p>Old, lazy-looking men, with empty heads in full hands,
lounged about on benches, and several others in the hospital
ward seemed to be trying harder to die than to live.
One wrinkled but round-faced wench, with a soiled bandage
round her ears and forehead, was smoking a well-seasoned
pipe in the kitchen while stirring mush. I was glad
to see the house prison empty. Five minutes indoors sufficed
me; and, bidding my escort a hasty adieu, I piloted
Mac on to Elkhart.</p>
<p>Arriving in the city, I at once procured a license to sell
pictures on the curb, a precaution I had been timely advised
to take, and one that was rarely necessary on that
trip. Then, before going to eat and to rest my tired
bones, I led the donkey to a prominent corner in the business
center and began to sell. I had disposed of two
photos only, when a policeman with unusual pomposity
ordered me away, but I continued to make sales and, as
he was about to take me in custody, shook my license in
his face, causing much merriment to the crowd.</p>
<p>Soon the cheering attracted the Mayor to the scene,
and he, to my surprise, not only bought a chromo, but
paid me for the privilege of riding Mac A'Rony. The
jack reluctantly consenting, his Honor got into the saddle
and rode down the half-choked thoroughfare a block
and back amid thunderous applause.</p>
<p>The profits from my sales did not meet my expenses, including
the cost of license, so I hurried on to Mishawaka,
where, after supper I delivered a street lecture, passed my
hat and collected 24 cents. I would yet be stranded in
Indiana, at that rate. Mac advised me to leave town at
once, and we made for South Bend at dark, reaching that
city by ten o'clock. And there with only $6.50 in pocket,
I put up at a small hotel and tossed in bed half the night,
wondering how I should save myself.</p>
<p>"The darkest hour is just before dawn," and it was
about that time when I recollected having received, a few
days before my pilgrimage began, a letter from a Mr.
Adams, of Chicago, extending me an invitation to be
his guest, should I pass through that city. It was one of
many letters received at the time, which I had not answered.
I now regretted my negligence, but nevertheless,
next morning, with due apologies I wired him to
expect me on a certain train, and planned for a week's
absence.</p>
<p>The lenient hotel proprietor agreed to take care of my
animals as security for my hotel and stable bill; then I
purchased a return ticket for emergency, and boarded the
train for the Windy City, trusting to a dollar and a half,
to my wits, and to "luck" to carry me through.</p>
<p>As I stepped off the train in Chicago, a stranger
grasped my hand and gave me a most cordial greeting.</p>
<p>"Laying for me, eh?—first man I meet a confidence
man," I muttered inwardly. But he was extremely courteous,
and offered to carry my saddle-bags.</p>
<p>"No, sir," I said, politely. "I've carried them twelve
hundred miles, and can carry them three thousand more."</p>
<p>"Pod is your name, all right;" the stranger continued,
half in inquiry, half in surprise, I thought, as we walked
out of the railroad station.</p>
<p>"You bet it is," I said, emphatically. "Just because
you've plenty of wind out here you needn't think it can
blow away my name."</p>
<p>"Well," said he, cheerfully, "Our wind is said to be
the best brewed in all this country. It may not be strong
enough to blow away pods, but I'll wager it can blow the
pease out of 'em so far you never can find them." The
man's facetiousness interested me; it bespoke his nerve.</p>
<p>"Tell me, Mister," I said, after walking several blocks,
"where are you taking me, anyhow?"</p>
<p>"Oh, just three blocks more, then we take a cable," said
my escort, as he made another futile grab for my countryfied
luggage. When on the car, this confidence man had
the confidence to introduce me to a pal, as the New York
gentleman and scholar, Professor Pye Pod, who was surveying
a trans-continental turnpike from the observation
platform of a jackass.</p>
<p>"I want to know!" exclaimed bunco man number two;
and suddenly, a new light affecting to dawn on his brain,
he added, as if to disarm my suspicions, "I see. I see. I
have it now. You are the journalist I've read about,—said
to be well fixed—first visit to Chicago?"</p>
<p>"Not much," I returned. "Been here dozens of times.
Can't say I'm well fixed, though, with only a dollar and a
half to my name."</p>
<p>At this stage of the dialogue, I saw a police station.
"Come with me," I said, "I want to procure a license.
Then we'll have a 'smile.'"</p>
<p>And, to my utter surprise and gratification, both men
stepped off the car and followed me like faithful dogs into
the police station.</p>
<p>"Where's the Chief of Police?" I inquired of a man in
uniform, who stepped toward me.</p>
<p>"Right here before you," was the answer.</p>
<p>"Well, arrest these bunco-steerers," I said, dropping
my odd-looking luggage and laying a hand on each man's
shoulder. I never saw greater astonishment and embarrassment
than was expressed by these two confidence men
at being so easily trapped by their "Uncle Rube."</p>
<p>"This man met me at the train when my depot came
in," I continued, excitedly, in <i>lapsus linguæ</i>. "He knew
my name, business, and previous condition of fortune, and
put me on a car where he introduced this pal of his, and
if I hadn't been forwarned against such fellows by my
Uncle Hiram, and caught on to the game, I would have
been robbed by this time and chucked into the sewer."</p>
<p>This was enough for the Chief. He seized each man
by the collar. Instantly the first man found his tongue
and tried to explain matters, and finally did so, to the satisfaction
of all concerned. But what a surprise party for
Pye Pod!</p>
<p>"Well! well!! well!!!" I exclaimed, my heart thumping
like a pile-driver, as I realized my embarrassing predicament.
"Who would have thought it? Mr. Adams,
of course! My dear sir, how stupid of me! I have
wronged you and your friend unmercifully. When I
telegraphed you (the Chief here loosened his hold on the
men) I never thought you would attempt to meet me at
the train, let alone have time to. Your address of 131609
Wellington avenue, I supposed must be near to the State
line; Chicago has grown so. Couldn't conceive how you
could reach the depot before to-morrow."</p>
<p>Of course, it was "up to me" to treat. So I left my
saddle-bags, and going to a cigar store, purchased a
dime's worth of cheroots, and did myself nobly by the
chief and the confidence men, whose faces were bloated
and red on my return. Then my forgiving host took me
to his distant home, where, after dinner, we enjoyed a
smoke—of his own cigars—and a hearty laugh over my
exceptional initiation to Chicago life.</p>
<p>While smoking and chatting, my host happened to
mention a big mass meeting to be held that evening at
Lincoln Turner Hall. The doors were to be opened at
eight o'clock. It was now seven-thirty. At once I explained
my financial stress, and told him that the object
of my advance trip by train was to try to make enough
money to continue my donkey journey. Adams suggested
that, that being the case, we should attend the meeting,
by all means; so we hurried off.</p>
<p>Arriving at the hall, my host introduced me to an officer
of the league, who escorted us both to seats on the platform
with a number of vice-presidents and their wives
and mothers-in-law. After several orators had spoken,
among them being Carter Harrison, soon to be elected
Mayor of Chicago, the chairman reminded the audience
of Pythagoras Pod and his celebrated donkey, Mac
A'Rony, of whom they had read, saying that the meeting
was honored with the Professor's presence; then he introduced
me, after having said I needed no introduction.</p>
<p>It was five minutes before I could hear myself speak,
and, not being there for that purpose, I didn't say much.
But my speech seemed to tickle the audience, and when I
had concluded, the chairman suggested that my histrionic
plug hat be passed around the hall, on the inside, so it
was; and, do you believe, it was returned to me with more
wealth than I had possessed before, at any one time on my
pilgrimage.</p>
<p>The two days following were busy ones. I contracted
for the manufacture of a quantity of buttons, containing
the picture of Pye Pod on his donkey, and arranged for
the meeting with the manager of a large patent medicine
concern on my return to the city with Mac A'Rony.
Then, after a day's rest, I returned Sunday evening to
South Bend, Ind., to find my donkey and dog well and
delighted to see me, but myself suffering, for the first,
with malaria.</p>
<p>I had a severe chill on reaching the hotel, and all night
long I rolled and tossed with a fever. This was doubtless
the result of my evening travels through the swamps and
lowlands of the Hoosier State. At midnight, I sent a
bell-boy for quinine, and by feeding on the medicine liberally,
for several hours, I broke up the fever by morning;
but still my bones ached. I had no appetite and was in no
form to travel. At noon I forced down a little soup, paid
my bills, and set out for New Carlisle, walking the whole
distance, fourteen miles, by sunset. Mac was so slow
that his shadow beat him to town. My muscles and
joints still ached, and I passed another sleepless night.
Next day I pushed on to La Porte, fourteen miles further,
and went to bed feeling a wreck. But as the chills and
fever failed to return, I enjoyed sleep.</p>
<p>My Chicago trip was a boon to me. I gave no thought
to money-making for the present. Wednesday morning,
feeling in better spirits, I started for Valparaiso, and covered
the twenty-two miles on foot by dark, and relished a
hearty supper. Thus far the week had been cold and
damp and cloudy. The roads, where they were not
muddy, were very sandy, and Mac and I made slow headway.</p>
<p>The following night was spent in Hobart, where I was
entertained at an amusing, though distressing cock-fight,
and all day Friday I tramped or waded in sand six inches
deep to the next town, Hammond, where I passed a restless
night, in spite of my now restored health. In the
morning I learned that the state line runs not only
through the town, but also, the very house and bedroom
I occupied. My bed was directly on the line, and somehow,
any position I got in brought that line across some
part of my body.</p>
<p>Dull monotony and bad weather distinguished the next
day's journey; a rainstorm met us half way to Chicago,
and wet us all the way. But on Palm Sunday, we progressed
under more genial skies. I observed many pacific,
law-abiding people with prayer-books, bottles and
shot-guns, either on their way to church, to a fishing-stream,
or to the woods; and we came upon a tandem bicycle
party, the machine broken down, the young man and
woman apparently broken up. She sat on a stone against
a telegraph pole with chin in her hands, watching the gallant
fellow, who was at her feet, on his knee caps with a
monkey wrench in his hands, trying to repair damages.</p>
<p>From South Chicago we passed into Stony Island Boulevard
and the Midway Plaisance of the World's Fair of
'93. The remaining Art building arched its brows at my
curious outfit, and an endless chain of bicycles and carriages
conveyed past us an inquisitive and gaping multitude,
many of whom altered their plans to follow us into
the city proper. It was six o'clock when we reached
Thirty-fourth street and I found a suitable stable for my
animals. Then affectionately patting Don's head and
rubbing Mac's nose, I left them and sauntered up the avenue,
heaving a sigh of infinite relief over my hard-earned
triumph.</p>
<p>As I trended the streets of that wide-awake metropolis
toward its business center, I was stopped many times by
truant messenger boys and idle street gamins, who seemed
surprisingly solicitous about the physical condition of my
hat.</p>
<p>"Mister, this way to a hat store." "If you want to buy a
new hat, I'll take you to a hatter." "This way, Mister, I
know a place to get a hat cheap." "Say, Mister, I kin get
yer a hat fer nothin'."</p>
<p>Why should I wish a new hat? I asked myself indignantly.
True, mine had seen better days, but it was worth
more to me now than a hundred new hats. "Yes, yes,
you dear old weather-beaten tile," I apostrophized as I
strode on with a deaf ear to my inquisitors, "you are of
royal stuff, for you have triumphed over many wars and
dissensions and still wear a crown! The plebeian hats
who calumniate you, although fresh from a band-box, are
common compared with you; they are jealous of your exploits
and envy you your faithful friend."</p>
<p>"Vividly do I recall our desperate encounters with the
mad bull, the hailstorms and other warring elements; and
that winter's night when you forgot your personal safety
and made a noble self-sacrifice by receiving the assailant's
bullet intended for me; and, again, the day the awkward
jackass tried to yank me off the plank foot-bridge underneath
him in his fall, when you threw your own lean
frame down on to the bank in place of me and received the
weight which would have mashed me to death, but which
only squeezed the wind out of you. Why do all the idle
clerks gaze at you so longingly from the shop-windows?
Because they covet you as a drawing card to disdaining
shoppers. I am proud of you. Rest in peace."</p>
<p>I spent the night with friend Adams, on his invitation.
Monday morning I kept my appointment with the patent
medicine man. He received me cordially, evidently aware
of the boon I might be to his business should I enter his
employ, and in order that he might better discuss my
proposition and its possibilities, he invited me some miles
into the country for a couple of days' outing at a mineral
spring resort.</p>
<p>A stylish coach and four met us at the train, and
wheeled us over a pretty rolling country, in the glow of
the setting sun, to the cozy hotel-sanitarium, which was
brilliantly illuminated and whose doors were open to welcome
us.</p>
<p>And in less than twenty minutes, Pod made of his
Apollo form a companion piece to "Diana Bathing."</p>
<p>The water then sold at fifty cents a gallon and there
were two hundred gallons in my tub. Think of it! I had
read about beautiful actresses and heiresses taking milk
baths and champagne baths and Rochelle salts baths, but
that $100 bath of mine in pure lithia water would have put
all those pretty bathing women to the blush. But when,
in my enthusiasm, I so told my generous host, he spoiled
all my beautiful delusions at once by saying quite mechanically,
"Oh, two hundred gallons for a bath is nothing
unusual; it's only the overflow."</p>
<p>Next morning he asked me if I would like a magno-mud
bath. "Sir?" I interrogated, gravely. "If you had
dragged and pushed and carried a stubborn, cantankerous
donkey through four hundred miles of red and yellow
Ohio mud, and two hundred miles of blue and black Indiana
mud, not to mention some six hundred miles of
New York and Pennsylvania mud of various hues and
conditions, the overflows of December, January and February;
if you had bathed in mud, waded in mud, soaked
in mud and cursed in mud for nearly five months, and I
were to put such a delicate question to you, your sensibilities
would be shocked, your nerves paralyzed, your
reason ossified."</p>
<p>My host apologized and withdrew the invitation; then
with great wisdom and forethought, he introduced me to
the physician, Dr. Tanner, the highest authority on fasting,
and renowned for his having fasted forty days. I
considered this the luckiest meeting of my whole journey.
He took quite a fancy to me and gave me valuable instructions
and prescriptions for fasting any period from one to
forty days; but I was disappointed not to be enlightened
on how to go several days without water.</p>
<p>That morning my host made me a liberal proposition to
advertise his medicines, he guaranteeing to pay me a
regular weekly stipend during the remainder of my pilgrimage
to the Golden Gate, and, free of all charges, to
provide me with all the photographs of my asinine outfit
that I could sell en route. I signed the contract. Then
we returned to Chicago.</p>
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