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<h2> NINTH WEEK </h2>
<p>I am more and more impressed with the moral qualities of vegetables, and
contemplate forming a science which shall rank with comparative anatomy
and comparative philology,—the science of comparative vegetable
morality. We live in an age of protoplasm. And, if life-matter is
essentially the same in all forms of life, I purpose to begin early, and
ascertain the nature of the plants for which I am responsible. I will not
associate with any vegetable which is disreputable, or has not some
quality that can contribute to my moral growth. I do not care to be seen
much with the squashes or the dead-beets. Fortunately I can cut down any
sorts I do not like with the hoe, and, probably, commit no more sin in so
doing than the Christians did in hewing down the Jews in the Middle Ages.</p>
<p>This matter of vegetable rank has not been at all studied as it should be.
Why do we respect some vegetables and despise others, when all of them
come to an equal honor or ignominy on the table? The bean is a graceful,
confiding, engaging vine; but you never can put beans into poetry, nor
into the highest sort of prose. There is no dignity in the bean. Corn,
which, in my garden, grows alongside the bean, and, so far as I can see,
with no affectation of superiority, is, however, the child of song. It
waves in all literature. But mix it with beans, and its high tone is gone.
Succotash is vulgar. It is the bean in it. The bean is a vulgar vegetable,
without culture, or any flavor of high society among vegetables. Then
there is the cool cucumber, like so many people, good for nothing when it
is ripe and the wildness has gone out of it. How inferior in quality it is
to the melon, which grows upon a similar vine, is of a like watery
consistency, but is not half so valuable! The cucumber is a sort of low
comedian in a company where the melon is a minor gentleman. I might also
contrast the celery with the potato. The associations are as opposite as
the dining-room of the duchess and the cabin of the peasant. I admire the
potato, both in vine and blossom; but it is not aristocratic. I began
digging my potatoes, by the way, about the 4th of July; and I fancy I have
discovered the right way to do it. I treat the potato just as I would a
cow. I do not pull them up, and shake them out, and destroy them; but I
dig carefully at the side of the hill, remove the fruit which is grown,
leaving the vine undisturbed: and my theory is, that it will go on
bearing, and submitting to my exactions, until the frost cuts it down. It
is a game that one would not undertake with a vegetable of tone.</p>
<p>The lettuce is to me a most interesting study. Lettuce is like
conversation: it must be fresh and crisp, so sparkling that you scarcely
notice the bitter in it. Lettuce, like most talkers, is, however, apt to
run rapidly to seed. Blessed is that sort which comes to a head, and so
remains, like a few people I know; growing more solid and satisfactory and
tender at the same time, and whiter at the center, and crisp in their
maturity. Lettuce, like conversation, requires a good deal of oil to avoid
friction, and keep the company smooth; a pinch of attic salt; a dash of
pepper; a quantity of mustard and vinegar, by all means, but so mixed that
you will notice no sharp contrasts; and a trifle of sugar. You can put
anything, and the more things the better, into salad, as into a
conversation; but everything depends upon the skill of mixing. I feel that
I am in the best society when I am with lettuce. It is in the select
circle of vegetables. The tomato appears well on the table; but you do not
want to ask its origin. It is a most agreeable parvenu. Of course, I have
said nothing about the berries. They live in another and more ideal
region; except, perhaps, the currant. Here we see, that, even among
berries, there are degrees of breeding. The currant is well enough, clear
as truth, and exquisite in color; but I ask you to notice how far it is
from the exclusive hauteur of the aristocratic strawberry, and the native
refinement of the quietly elegant raspberry.</p>
<p>I do not know that chemistry, searching for protoplasm, is able to
discover the tendency of vegetables. It can only be found out by outward
observation. I confess that I am suspicious of the bean, for instance.
There are signs in it of an unregulated life. I put up the most attractive
sort of poles for my Limas. They stand high and straight, like
church-spires, in my theological garden,—lifted up; and some of them
have even budded, like Aaron's rod. No church-steeple in a New England
village was ever better fitted to draw to it the rising generation on
Sunday, than those poles to lift up my beans towards heaven. Some of them
did run up the sticks seven feet, and then straggled off into the air in a
wanton manner; but more than half of them went gallivanting off to the
neighboring grape-trellis, and wound their tendrils with the tendrils of
the grape, with a disregard of the proprieties of life which is a satire
upon human nature. And the grape is morally no better. I think the
ancients, who were not troubled with the recondite mystery of protoplasm,
were right in the mythic union of Bacchus and Venus.</p>
<p>Talk about the Darwinian theory of development, and the principle of
natural selection! I should like to see a garden let to run in accordance
with it. If I had left my vegetables and weeds to a free fight, in which
the strongest specimens only should come to maturity, and the weaker go to
the wall, I can clearly see that I should have had a pretty mess of it. It
would have been a scene of passion and license and brutality. The “pusley”
would have strangled the strawberry; the upright corn, which has now ears
to hear the guilty beating of the hearts of the children who steal the
raspberries, would have been dragged to the earth by the wandering bean;
the snake-grass would have left no place for the potatoes under ground;
and the tomatoes would have been swamped by the lusty weeds. With a firm
hand, I have had to make my own “natural selection.” Nothing will so well
bear watching as a garden, except a family of children next door. Their
power of selection beats mine. If they could read half as well as they can
steal awhile away, I should put up a notice, “Children, beware! There is
Protoplasm here.” But I suppose it would have no effect. I believe they
would eat protoplasm as quick as anything else, ripe or green. I wonder if
this is going to be a cholera-year. Considerable cholera is the only thing
that would let my apples and pears ripen. Of course I do not care for the
fruit; but I do not want to take the responsibility of letting so much
“life-matter,” full of crude and even wicked vegetable-human tendencies,
pass into the composition of the neighbors' children, some of whom may be
as immortal as snake-grass. There ought to be a public meeting about this,
and resolutions, and perhaps a clambake. At least, it ought to be put into
the catechism, and put in strong.</p>
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